Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15

[calvin415]

I've decided to go ahead and start a thread to show my new basement tank. Unfortunately, if you only see this post, you're too early. ;) The tank is still just pieces of acrylic waiting to be put together, but if you're seen any of my other tanks, it's just a matter of time before this one get's finished.

Here's a poor rendering of what I have in mind, and some constuction pics of my basement (not everything is pictured such as additional support built into the framing of the stand) as we've completed the stand. The stand is more than solid, as I have approx 1000lbs of flooring sitting on it right now... The flooring almost done being installed, and I hope to pick up my router tonight to get started on the tank (was left at my folks house after an acrylic demo from our last reef club meeting).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_Basement2-1.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=Basement2-1.flv)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3885.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3896.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3914.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3920.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3922.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3921.jpg

[EBOLII]

wow.......what will you be looking for? LPS/SPS or swimmers?

[reef_only]

why only 15" tall?

[DOTZ]

Looks like it will be awsome. With it being so short narrow and long how are you planning to get flow through it. Going to cool though.

[Dietger]

This looks very promising, I cannot wait to see the progress on this tank!
Good luck with this creation :)

[calvin415]

LPS with lots of small swimmers. :D

I'm a nano fan, so my intention was to keep it nano sized, but I wanted to go really long. Originally wanted a 16 footer, but decided to keep it to 12' so it could be viewable from 2 sides instead. It may end up 144x16x16 but will depend on how much material I'm able to save in the build. Either way, I don't want to completely close off either room, and it will help give the room an open feel.

[Chibils]

I hate tall, narrow tanks. Good choice keeping the aspect ratio of height to depth equal. :)

[calvin415]

Man, two more posts before I could answer the last two... ;)

Will have a CL run with a Dart, pushing 3600 gph through 5 return ports spaced every 2 ft through the bottom. Overflow boxes on each end, one will feed the sump, the other to feed the CL, with the return coming up through the CL overflow to push water toward the overflow that feeds the sump.

Hope that makes sense...

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12618186#post12618186 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chibils
I hate tall, narrow tanks. Good choice keeping the aspect ratio of height to depth equal. :)

Me too, Thanks. ;)

[arctictwist]

following along! cant wait to see it built!

[Chef Reef]

Tagging along. looks good thus far.

[Chef Reef]

Tagging along. looks good thus far.

[NanoReefWanabe]

wow going to be interesting..nice work so far..

[InsaneClownFish]

Beautiful work! I've always wanted a tank like this..:)

[h2joe]

sweet man cant wait to see the tank

[GIJOE007]

tagging this thread...looks good thus far

[Giga]

i'm pretty sure I need an update with pics :)

[cdentii1]

What are you waiting for. No Water yet? JK/LOL.....
I have to watch this build looks like it will be an awesome 160G.

[Todd G.]

tagging this thread as well.. looks interesting

[wizsmaster]

I'm sure it'll be nice. Have you sourced 12' long acrylic? or how are you doing the long panels?

--marco

[calvin415]

Thanks for the feedback, the 12' panels will be created by welding an 8' piece to a 4' piece and then lots of sanding and polishing to blend the joint... I've practiced a few times and I think I've got a technique that will work quite well. Well at least well enough to justify not dropping $$$$ on a custom cast.

[FishtankAndy]

Never thought of a giant nano. lol

That's a pretty cool idea tho!

[Chef Reef]

lol gaint nano.. sounds... not quite right? cant find the word im looking for.

[newreef8584]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12624549#post12624549 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Thanks for the feedback, the 12' panels will be created by welding an 8' piece to a 4' piece and then lots of sanding and polishing to blend the joint... I've practiced a few times and I think I've got a technique that will work quite well. Well at least well enough to justify not dropping $$$$ on a custom cast.

Not sure of the company name, but last time I was picking up acrylic for a project the sales girl was mentioning the availability of low cost acrylic coming out of Mexico. Although it was cheaper it had a severe limitation of only being avail in 1/2". But she did say it was unique in the fact that the sheets were sold in 4x8, 5x10 and 4x12 foot sizes.

If I speak to them again I will see if I can find the manufacturers name.

[wizsmaster]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12628319#post12628319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chef Reef
lol gaint nano.. sounds... not quite right? cant find the word im looking for.

oxymoron

[calvin415]

Yeah, I'm not sure what to call it, kind of like Jumbo Shrimp right? LOL! I've talked with my supplier and they don't have anything in cell cast that's 12' long unless I get a custom cast and I don't want to shell out that kind of money on a 140-160 gallon tank. :(

[Cuby2k]

I like your plan, something different. Your lighting intensity won't need to be so high and it will be so much easier to service.

Great work on the gypboard. IMO, that's the worst job in construction, I hate to do it myself.

Good luck with the project, I'll be hanging out with ya.

[OnlyCrimson]

I've been thinkin of making a tank like this since I first started in freshwater. It's awesome to see someone do it!

[Chef Reef]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12628752#post12628752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wizsmaster
oxymoron

Thanks! exactly the word i was thinking of but couldnt quite think it :hmm3:

[RedDmon]

Wish we had basements in South Florida ... any updates? Pics?

[sabbath]

Cool idea, Jumping on board. :)

[calvin415]

Well, here the rec room with floors installed... Next will be trim, but not sure on an ETA as I want to start building the tank sometime soon. The acrylic (2 8' pieces and 2 4' pieces to become 2 12' pieces) is stacked on the stand. :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3931.jpg

[mountaindew]

Eric,
your moving right along.
good progress and good looking work
enjoy!

[calvin415]

Thanks Lane! I routered the ends of the panels last night, hope to hit it with some light sanding and get the panels welded together soon. :D Of course I'll still have to do it all over again for the top and bottom once I have some more money. ;) LOL!

[calvin415]

The first 12' piece is officially welded together. :D It's been setup for almost 24 hours and I'll give it another 12-18 before I unclamp it, sand and polish it up. Stay tuned for some more pics tomorrow. ;)

(3 more 12' pieces to go...)

[arctictwist]

3 more? You puttin a top on it?

[calvin415]

I have to... 12' without a top would probably require material over 2" thick otherwise.

[arctictwist]

ahhh ok yea i didnt think about that. What did you use for the top of the stand? It looks really good.

[coolrock]

You're going to love this tank! I have an 8 footer, that is 14" wide and 16" tall. Softies and fish only.

I hope you're thinking about t-5 lighting. I have 3 rows of t-5's spanning the length of the tank. (That's 4 main bulbs on a Workhorse ballast and two actinics on and Advanced ballast. Of course, they're wired so that the actinics make one row across, and power on separately from the main lights.) Wish I could mine as a wall divider. It's going to look great!

I don't check RC too often, but I'll be following this thread. It's going to be a great tank for you!

[Pulp Fishin]

Well I must say I just read calvin415 first 10.2g nano that won NTOTM April not sure what year. That first tank made me really wnat to find Harlequin Shrimo and 2nd made me wish I had the space/tools required for a project like this.

I love the idea of the sump in the back of the tank and I assume thats the idea Calvin is going for this tim aswell.

I can't wait too see whats comming next!

Cheers

[Pulp Fishin]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1060365&highlight=nTOTM

I think this is his first DIY tank.
I can't wait too see what this 12 foot tank will be like!

Cheers

[arctictwist]

i think if you look back it says that theres two overflows, one for sump and one for closed loop. I dont think the sump would be inside, its viewable from both sides.

[Pulp Fishin]

well if its nto the same idea I can't wait too see if its a similar idea!

[arctictwist]

Well if you judge from what he did with the first one, im sure this will be GREAT. I cant wait to see it either.

[EBOLII]

Interesting....I can't wait to see these joined pieces. How's bout a quick word or 2 on the process when you post yeah

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650192#post12650192 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arctictwist
ahhh ok yea i didnt think about that. What did you use for the top of the stand? It looks really good.

Drywall. :D LOL! I just didn't texture it so it's a smooth surface.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650361#post12650361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coolrock
You're going to love this tank! I have an 8 footer, that is 14" wide and 16" tall. Softies and fish only.

I hope you're thinking about t-5 lighting. I have 3 rows of t-5's spanning the length of the tank. (That's 4 main bulbs on a Workhorse ballast and two actinics on and Advanced ballast. Of course, they're wired so that the actinics make one row across, and power on separately from the main lights.) Wish I could mine as a wall divider. It's going to look great!

I don't check RC too often, but I'll be following this thread. It's going to be a great tank for you!

Yes, I will be going with T-5's 4 rows of them but it will be an 8x80w setup so hopefully there will be enough coverage spreading 10' of bulb to cover approx 11' of tank (12' minus overflows on the ends).

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12650725#post12650725 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pulp Fishin
Well I must say I just read calvin415 first 10.2g nano that won NTOTM April not sure what year. That first tank made me really wnat to find Harlequin Shrimo and 2nd made me wish I had the space/tools required for a project like this.

I love the idea of the sump in the back of the tank and I assume thats the idea Calvin is going for this tim aswell.

I can't wait too see whats comming next!

Cheers

Thanks bud, actually there will be a sump on this one so it's viewable from both sides but IMO it's the same concept, really long, short and narrow. I loved the original idea and was even thinking of just building a longer version of it, but I'd really like to get some fish this time. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12651419#post12651419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EBOLII
Interesting....I can't wait to see these joined pieces. How's bout a quick word or 2 on the process when you post yeah

Sure... First was the prep work not pictured where I routered the end of each piece to clean it up and ensure it was perfectly square with the adjacent edge.

Next was the setup, this step involved taping off the pieces to keep the WeldOn 42 from getting on the surface of the acrylic (not crucial but less sanding in the end) and then clamping everything in place.

Once everything was ready, I unclamped one side (shorter side for ease) seperating them approx 1/8-1/4" and ran a piece of tape along the joint on the bottom to keep the 42 in the joint. Once the 42 was applied, I squeeze the pieces back together (not too tight, you don't want a dry joint) and reapplied the clamps to ensure the pieces were in perfect alignment. Then remove the tape on the bottom holding the solvent in, and then the tape protecting the surface. This will allow you to see into the joint to ensure it's bubble free.

To get maximum strength with 42, it's recommended to cure the joint at 158*F for 4 hours within 24 hours of gluing. I don't have an easy bake oven yet, and I believe the strength of a standard temp cure to be enough but I hope allowing it to cure for 48 hours in a spring time garage (very warm) will help. In my practice welds with 1/2" material, the standard temp cure was strong enough to keep me from being able to break it by hand. Using 1/2" materials for all 6 sides, plus full euro and cross bracing I feel this tank is already being over built and additional curing should not be needed.

Okay, enough words huh? Here's the pics...

Here's my setup.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3935.jpg

A little closer.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3936.jpg

From the side.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3938.jpg

You can see the solvent drips, this is actually already cured for almost 48 hours, you can see how clear the solvent sets up.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3940.jpg

And the joint before sanding or polishing. All imperfections are on the surface and should sand clear with a little work.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3937.jpg

[Giga]

Where do you get acylic sheets? I'm think of making a littel rimless tank but not sure where to get a good source of cast acylic

[wizsmaster]

look in your yellow pages for plastic supply houses ... specialty plastics, or call around to your local stores ... they may have a lead to someone who builds acrylic stuff ... lots of times you can call sign shops, they should be able to get you a lead on where to get material, or maybe even hook you up.

[calvin415]

http://www.acplasticsinc.com/

They have a distributor here in Colorado. Best idea is to check your Yellow pages for Plastic suppliers and shop around until you find a supplier. We have other plastic shops here but they get their acrylic from A&C so then you end up paying a lot more. It also depends on if you need a full sheet of less than a full sheet and if you have the equipment to cut it. I have to order full sheets and then cut it myself for exact measurements. If you don't want a full sheet or need it cut for you, you'll pay more.

[Giga]

lol glass it is then

[EBOLII]

Wow the sand/polish will be great to see.....you think you will be able to tell? If a stranger was looking at it would they know if you didn't tell them?

[wizsmaster]

glass is more affordable for sure ... with oil prices the way they are now ... acrylic is $baller$

look at glass cages .. they can be pretty good on prices.

[coolrock]

Yes, I will be going with T-5's 4 rows of them but it will be an 8x80w setup so hopefully there will be enough coverage spreading 10' of bulb to cover approx 11' of tank (12' minus overflows on the ends).

I think 4 rows of 5' bulbs on each half of the tank will leave some dark areas. I would keep the endcaps as close together as possible in the middle of the tank, leaving about 5-6" uncovered near the overflows.

Or, if you stagger the 4 rows of 5 footers, you could light the majority of the tank's length pretty evenly, and then just have it a little dimmer on the ends by the overflow.

Or, how about 4 footers on each end and 3 footers in the middle? I haven't looked at them, but I'd bet the price of an 80w bulb is pretty close the cost of a 54w and 36w bulb combined. This way, you'd get full coverage, and 7' worth of bulb for pretty close to the cost of one 5' (80w) bulb.

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12653578#post12653578 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EBOLII
Wow the sand/polish will be great to see.....you think you will be able to tell? If a stranger was looking at it would they know if you didn't tell them?

This joint wasn't 100% perfect, more like 95% as there are a couple tiny pockets that didn't fill on the bottom side (not sure how it happened) but may still look clear when polished and filled with water, but I'll likely be using this one for the bottom or the top (I have 3 more tries to get 2 100% pieces. :D) As for the joint, if you look for it you will likely be able to still see "something" but at a distance or even at an upclose glance I don't anticipate being able to see it.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12653776#post12653776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by coolrock
I think 4 rows of 5' bulbs on each half of the tank will leave some dark areas. I would keep the endcaps as close together as possible in the middle of the tank, leaving about 5-6" uncovered near the overflows.

Or, if you stagger the 4 rows of 5 footers, you could light the majority of the tank's length pretty evenly, and then just have it a little dimmer on the ends by the overflow.

Or, how about 4 footers on each end and 3 footers in the middle? I haven't looked at them, but I'd bet the price of an 80w bulb is pretty close the cost of a 54w and 36w bulb combined. This way, you'd get full coverage, and 7' worth of bulb for pretty close to the cost of one 5' (80w) bulb.

I may have to stagger them a little... I looked at the 4, 4, 3 method, but that's 50% more bulbs to replace (12 -vs- 8)and would cost over $100 more than the 8x80w. In addition the 4, 4, 3 setup would only be H.O (at that price, could pay more for VHO) where the 8x80W is already a VHO T-5 setup and the 80w bulbs still cost the same as the 54w and 39w.

Now, if I can't get the spread out of the 10' of bulb that I need, I'll likely have to got with a 4, 4, 3 setup, but from people I've discussed it with, they expect the 8x80w to provide sufficient coverage. *fingers crossed*

[calvin415]

Here's some pics of the initial sanding...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3943.jpg

And if anyone feels the joint isn't going to hold...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3944.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3945.jpg

Holds, just fine. This is more bowing than this tank will see in a lifetime.

[calvin415]

Unfortunately, I'm out of 400 grit W/D so I wasn't able to do too much polishing tonight. :( Here's where I'm at:

Just so you can compare, here's 120 grit dry...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3943.jpg

Here's 200 grit dry...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3946.jpg

220 wet...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3947.jpg

and flipped taking the other side from 200 dry sanded to 220 wet...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3948.jpg

Next will be 400 wet and so on... Just need to get more 400. :(

[arctictwist]

Forgive me if im wrong, but do the edges on the end of the seam not line up?

[calvin415]

Yes, everything will be cut flush before moving ahead.

[P.Kelly]

Looking good, can't wait to see more.

[SeaIsle]

Well done thus far. I like the layout and I cant wait to see it together and on the stand. Tagging along

[dantimdad]

Any updates?

[yousmellsfishy]

I love this build!! You are constructing my dream tank. Most certainly tagging along:thumbsup:

[1BADCFH]

Going great! Do you have another tank running right now, or is this your first reef?

[MrSpiffy]

Just tagging along. :) I love these nifty tank builds!

[Pulp Fishin]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12677108#post12677108 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1BADCFH
Going great! Do you have another tank running right now, or is this your first reef?

Not sure if he has a tank running now but I knwo this isn't his first reef!
I rember a 10.2gallon build that won Ntotm awhile ago was very impressive! I loved the Harlequin shrimp he kept in that tank before he got rid of it.

[P.Kelly]

More... More...

[1BADCFH]

Oops. now I see the he is a member of the 1000 watt bulb club below.

[calvin415]

Sorry guys I didn't take any pics last night but as of right now I was able to finish sanding one side last night. 320 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, 1200 grit, 1500 grit, 1800 grit, 2400 grit, 3000 grit, 4000 grit, and finally buffed clear. I'll be starting the opposite side when I have time, and then weld up the next piece and start the process over again. I'll post pics when I have the first piece finished, maybe some more progress pics of the buffing process.

1BADCFH yes I've had countless tanks over the years, but currently have a 225 that I keep at my folks house (funded by them since my Dad also wanted a tank, but maintained and controlled by me ;) ). Here's a link to that build. It hasn't been updated in some time, but it's doing great!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1050944

[P.Kelly]

Calvin, if you have a chance to post pics of the results of various sanding phases, continuing where you left off for thenext piece, I would love to see. Very curious about the process.

Do you use a mechanical sander, or just a block and your elbow grease?

[calvin415]

I'll see what I can do... Have lots of chances to get pics for you Pete, 1 side down but 7 to go. ;)

I use an orbital with 80 grit to start, it removes the excess 42 that's hardened pretty easy, from there I use a block and sand by hand. Key to sanding it to go in a straight line and then perpendicular on the next grit to ensure you remove all the previous grits scratches. Hope that makes sense, I'll try to document it better now that I have the sand paper I needed. Maybe Saturday so I can get some natural lighting instead of using the flash.

[calvin415]

Oh and I use a buffing wheel on a high speed drill with a plastic polishing compound to make it shine. Stay tuned for more pics.

[1BADCFH]

After reading that thread I laughed at myself for asking if this was your first reef!:rolleye1: I really like the eyelet bulkheads. This tank will def. be one of a kind!

[EBOLII]

Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Stay tuned for more pics.

looking forward to seeing that end result of the panel

[P.Kelly]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12686003#post12686003 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415 I use an orbital with 80 grit to start, it removes the excess 42 that's hardened pretty easy[/B]

42? Is that the number of the "glue" like TAP #3, #4 or #16?

[calvin415]

Yes WeldOn 42. :D

[foofooree]

sorry, double post:o

[foofooree]

wow, thats awesome. I guess you wont have any problems with light penetration! lol

[sabbath]

Cool! A 140 gallon Looong.

[lunarlanderboy]

I need to get a house

[Deceptive]

Do you apply it simular to applying PVC Cement? Small thin coat good enough for a thin smooth thorough coverage? ''If it gets away from you , just sand polish etc and voila? Every other Acrylic Tank building site uses different methods such as Weldon and after its finished, silicone on the inside around all connected joints. Sound about right?

[Jeff Worsham]

Very cool idea. I think I'll tag along!!

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12689519#post12689519 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by foofooree
wow, thats awesome. I guess you wont have any problems with light penetration! lol

Thanks, no problems with penetration but instead the biggest obstacle will be light coverage.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12697163#post12697163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Deceptive
Do you apply it simular to applying PVC Cement? Small thin coat good enough for a thin smooth thorough coverage? ''If it gets away from you , just sand polish etc and voila? Every other Acrylic Tank building site uses different methods such as Weldon and after its finished, silicone on the inside around all connected joints. Sound about right?

Doesn't sound about right... :( Nothing like PVC... But yes once it's together any excess solvent is sanded and polished away. I'm not sure what sites you're looking at, but silicone should not be needed on any acrylic aquarium. There are a number of great threads here to show you step by step but I hope to document this build even better than my last.

[calvin415]

Let's see, where did I leave off? 220 Wet right?

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3949.jpg

Next step is 400 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3950.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3951.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3955.jpg

600 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3956.jpg

What it looks like when sanding...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3958.jpg

and when toweled dry.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3959.jpg

[EBOLII]

getting there yeah?...

[calvin415]

1500 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3961.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3963.jpg

1800 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3964.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3969.jpg

2400 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3970.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3971.jpg

3200 Wet

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3972.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3973.jpg

After 3200 is 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000, I typically only go to about 4000, after than a buffer can remove the haze.

[calvin415]

Here is what I buff with.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3975.jpg

And what it looks like 1/2 way done.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3977.jpg

And finished.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3978.jpg

For those of you obsessed with the details, here some short vids of what sanding looks like... :rolleyes:

Note the direction of sanding changes with each grit, you want to sand until all remaining previous grit pattern is gone.

400 grit
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3953.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3953.flv)

600 grit
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3957.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3957.flv)

1500 grit
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3962.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3962.flv)

1800 grit
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3967.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3967.flv)

[foofooree]

wow, thats loads of sanding. cant wait to see it when its done. Are you going to remove that line you can see in the acrylic?

[calvin415]

Sure, just as soon as you tell me how. ;) No that's the finished product, this is the closest I can get to a clear butt joint given the tools I have.

[calvin415]

Here's panel two being glued up...

First tape it off...

And if you're not sure how to tape, here ya go...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3980.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3980.flv)

And cutting off the excess...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3982.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3982.flv)

Clamping down just one side.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3984.jpg

Note the gap for the WeldOn 42.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3983.jpg

42 Gun.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3986.jpg

And Tape on the bottom to prevent the solvent from running out.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN3987.jpg

[calvin415]

Applying the 42

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3988.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3988.flv)

Squeezing the pieces together

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3989.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3989.flv)

And un-tape one side to see how the weld turned out (bubbles or not) Unfortunately this one has some small bubbles toward the end, so hopefully I can keep it in the sand to help hide them. :( Or it will become the bottom since I now have 2 more attempts.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/th_DSCN3990.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/?action=view&current=DSCN3990.flv)

[larryl]

Looking good, Eric! How much time would you say you took doing each of the sanding steps?

Is the remaining line on the surface or internal? If it's on the surface, could you lay a bead of 42 over/in it and then sand it back down?

How fast does the 42 set up? I'm wondering if before glueing you could raise the panels near the joint a bit, so the gap is a bit V-shaped, and then after filling with the 42 let it drop back down - maybe that would squeeze the 42 up and out more evenly so it's more likely to fill cleanly? Not sure if that would help or cause more of a mess...


Larry

[calvin415]

About 5-10 minutes with each grit. As for the line, I'm not sure where it is coming from, as I can't feel a thing on the surface and the 42 was already squeezed above the joint and sanded back down to it. ??? I guess it's just something I'll have to try again on the next ones or I'll just have to live with it. 3 more panels to try...

[Deceptive]

Is Weldon 42 the best to use on all larger acrylic tanks 140 to 400g?

[dzeadow]

Calvin, I know it's not exactly the same, but I work w/ corian type countertops and have to seam things in a similar fashion. The line is more than likely where the seam wasn't tight enough and you're seeing the glue vs. material touching. I use a "mirror seam" template when doing seams, and you have to be careful that your edges get pushed together and lined up how they were cut. Also, I usually hot glue a couple of blocks to each side of the seam and use squeeze clamps to squeeze the seams together to get them tight. I don't know how hot glue will be on acrylic , but you're sanding it anyway so I'm guessing any mars could be fixed in that process. Just a thought.

[calvin415]

WeldOn 42 is the strongest thing to use for any acrylic joint especially where clarity is required.

Danny, I could use that same method, but if I squeeze the joint like that, it will result in a dry joint and will not hold. :( It's best to just keep it hand tight and just clamp it in place.

[dzeadow]

gotcha. I thought it might be different. corian's a polycarbonate vs. this being acrylic. I guess I didn't read enough, did you use a router to do the seam?

[foofooree]

hey, I dont know if it would work or not, but you could try making the plexi vibrate to remove the air bubbles

[calvin415]

Danny, yes both pieces were routered clean to give a nice square edge for welding. :D

Not sure how I would even try to vibrate it, nor do I think it would give good results. If there are that many bubbles I can pull the pieces apart easy enough and try it again.

[Lucky Strike]

Calvin,
Thanks for the nice videos and documentation!!! Thats awesome.

[FFrankie]

Nice work dude!

[Chef Reef]

very nice so far!

[Chef Reef]

very nice so far!

[mountaindew]

Eric
looking good.
the solid surface guy was talking about a matched seam.
in the counter biz. you can clamp the material together and route it off together. you end up with what is called a matched seam.
i dont think that will help with your problem. i was thinking maybe a very small 45 deg fillet front and back on acrylic sheet before glue up might help hide it . in general i have no idea! :)
keep up the good work and the pics . i enjoy reading about these builds

[EBOLII]

Have you tried asking a plastic company for their thoughts? I don't see what a email or 2 would hurt. could get a trick ot trade type input eh?

[dzeadow]

yeah, it certainly wouldn't hurt to email "Acrylics" who is a member here and that's what his business is. I'm sure he'd know what to do if theres a way to get it to disappear.

[just dave]

I know some tank manufacturers can and do butt join panels together. In pictures I can't see the seam perhaps in person you can. I also hear that as the tank ages the seam can become visible/ more visible.

[foofooree]

at the atlanta aquarium, they used huge sheets of acrylic for their huge viewing window, you can see the seams if you look at them from the side, but it's not that noticeable. That arcylic is like a foot thick.

[calvin415]

Thanks for the feedback and thoughts guys... Actually I already asked James for his thoughts and he said the same.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=390652&perpage=25&pagenumber=22

The only thing I'm not doing is cutting it at a 45 and I didn't go that route because if there is still a line, I would see two lines 1/2" apart. Hope that makes sense, if not I can draw a picture. Either way, it looks like a line is not uncommon so I'll have to live with it. I'll post more pics when I have an update on tank construction and or to answer any other questions.

On a side note, if you haven't seen it already, our local club was featured this month in the Club Showcase in ReefKeeping Magazine that just came out! We're pretty stoked about it!!!

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/cs/index.php

[SWINGRRRR]

Good job so far. I have never seen a "large" acrylic tank where you could not see the seems. Bass Pro Shops, Cabelas, Atlanta Aquarium, etc, you always see the seam.

[Chibils]

Loving the way this tank is coming along.

[JDigital]

Wow... impressive build! That is an insane amount of sanding... :eek2:

[Rocmtnreef]

Hey Eric, looks like you got yourself a project there. Can't wait to see you putting the water in.

[tigerarmy40]

this is gong to be an awesome setup for sure! I love the long shallow and narrow look! Have you planned out you flow yet? there are so many interesting things you can do...

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12705763#post12705763 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SWINGRRRR
Good job so far. I have never seen a "large" acrylic tank where you could not see the seems. Bass Pro Shops, Cabelas, Atlanta Aquarium, etc, you always see the seam.

Ditto, you can even see the seams in pictures, but I wasn't sure it was fair to compare the seam on this panel to ones where each section weight 20 tons. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12707840#post12707840 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chibils
Loving the way this tank is coming along.

Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12707888#post12707888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JDigital
Wow... impressive build! That is an insane amount of sanding... :eek2:

That's nothing... That was just to do one side of one panel, multiply that by 8 and then add all the finishing work on the tank itself (sanding and polishing all the edges!!!). ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12708563#post12708563 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rocmtnreef
Hey Eric, looks like you got yourself a project there. Can't wait to see you putting the water in.

Thanks bud, I can't wait either!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12709579#post12709579 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tigerarmy40
this is gong to be an awesome setup for sure! I love the long shallow and narrow look! Have you planned out you flow yet? there are so many interesting things you can do...

Yes, the sump will be fed by an overflow on the side near the wall, and returned through an overflow on the side near the support post. The overflow on the side near the support post will have teeth cut lower to ensure it stays flooded (don't want air in it) and feed the CL pump. The CL will pump 3600 GPH (Dart) through 5 return ports drilled through the bottom. Each CL bulkhead will likely be T'd off to provide constant flow in one direction and opposite flow on the other side. Basically the lower half of the tank will have a wirlpool effect going on, while the surface flows from the CL overflow to the other (drain to sump).

Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I have to get working on the basement again soon as the permit is due to expire soon and I need to get this thing done.

[tigerarmy40]

I like that idea! it shouldnt have a single dead spot if you map it out correctly :)

[yousmellsfishy]

That's nothing... That was just to do one side of one panel, multiply that by 8 and then add all the finishing work on the tank itself (sanding and polishing all the edges!!!). ;)






Would it really be necessary to work that hard on all 8 sides. It would seem like the bottom wouldn't need much sanding if any sanding at all. Same thing with the top if it's just for bracing. Depending on how you aquascape, the back may not need much work either, right?

[calvin415]

The back is viewable as well, as for the top and bottom, I won't know what pieces will be used for the top and bottom until all 4 pieces are finished and then the worst two will be used for the top and bottom. Either way, I'm stuck doing lots of sanding. Really I don't mind it, it helps make the project last longer and allows me to continue to direct funds appropriately... :D I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I love the build as much if not more than the finished project.

[P.Kelly]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12714011#post12714011 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I love the build as much if not more than the finished project.

+1

[yousmellsfishy]

:D I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I love the build as much if not more than the finished project. [/B]
Me too. About a month after they're done, I'm anxious to do another

[alpine]

Great work Calvin,glad I have a chance to follow this one from the start.

The build seems to always be my favorite part :).

[SWINGRRRR]

NE updates?

[calvin415]

Well I have all the acrylic now, I just need to find the time to put it all together...

[wizsmaster]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12753280#post12753280 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SWINGRRRR
NE updates?

North East updates?

[foofooree]

ne= any lol

[P.Kelly]

NE = any

[Chibils]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12754541#post12754541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by petes97
NE = north east ficst :D

[calvin415]

Sorry guys no major updates on the tank yet... I did finish all the flooring in the basement and have 200ft for trim just waiting to be installed. I'm finishing a frag tank and a combo sump for locals at the moment so I hope to get back on track soon.

[SWINGRRRR]

Just dont let it die man!! We are all here behind you.

[Dustin1300]

Ready to see the pics too!!!! I'm wanting a bigger tank than my 55 and am hoping to make my basement finished like yours next summer...Doing a good job with the acrylic, cannot stand criticism from many that would not even devote themselves to such a project...I love the acrylic and hope to do the same....GOOD WORK!

[Aj Flip]

this is too cool

[calvin415]

Don't worry it's not going to die, just trying to find some time to get it built.

Thanks for all the feedback! :D

[CMcNeil]

great thread and really cool tank idea :thumbsup:
i really liked your old 4' 10g build so i imagine this will be even better.
i read every page and notice the seam problem you are having.i know you talked to James about already,but i have a thought(probably not going to work)but.......have you tried on a sample piece to polish the edges before you try to glue them together?i am referring to the butt joints for your 12' panels.like i said probably a crazy idea but worth trying i suppose.

[Ehgemus]

what is this about a 4' 10g build? link please

[EBOLII]

Yes I think we have been deprived of some valuable "Need to know" images

[alpine]

Lol,Calvins old tank can be seen on a couple of different threads.Its a really cool tank,and you would be hard pressed to be able to tell that its only 10 gallons or so.

[alpine]

Here goes a link to his old 4' nano.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1060365

[EBOLII]

Wooop woop woooo Know I am really looking forward to this build.....You are skilled

well done

[Ehgemus]

I remember it now!

[Moonstream]

wow! after seeing your previous tank, I cant wait to see how this one turns out!

[calvin415]

Sorry for the lack of updates guys, I've been SOOOOOOOO busy with other projects, but I just finished welding the last two pieces to complete all 4 16' pieces. :D I hope to get them all cut, sanded, and polish tomorrow so I can begin assembly of the tank some time next week. I'll get some more pics when I start the assembly process.

[foofooree]

looking forward to it :D

[calvin415]

All the acrylic panels are cut, so it looks like the tank is going to end up at approx 142x15.5x16.5 (outside dimension w/ 1/2" acrylic) putting it at almost 140 gallons. I still need to sand, polish, and buff the seams but they are cut to size and ready for assembly as soon as they are polished. I'll get post more pics (6 of us) cutting the 12' panels as soon as I get them uploaded.

[calvin415]

Wasn't tough to cut, just tough to keep pressed against the fence. :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/CIMG0951.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/CIMG0952.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/CIMG0954.jpg

[bucknellreefer]

I just can't wait to see this come together, I loved your 10g xxxxxl tank. You make me wanna take up acrylic fabrication :D

[sweetleaf]

Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship. Can't wait to see the finished build!

[calvin415]

Thanks guys, I realized I will need to attach the overflows to the two ends before I start the tank build because once the ends are attached I can't get the ends in a horizontal plane again (ie I don't have room to set a 12' tank up on end in the basement). I'll try to get them built some time this week and post pics of the fab process.

[DheereCrossing]

You can do it - just take the whole works to the local high school gymnasium. You'll have PLENTY of room to build that next 36 foot long, 8 inch tall tank up on end...:rollface:

[alpine]

Hey Calvin
Any chance you can point me to an online vendor that sells weld-on 42 and the applicator gun?

[sabbath]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12911015#post12911015 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alpine
Hey Calvin
Any chance you can point me to an online vendor that sells weld-on 42 and the applicator gun?

Here is one.weld-on 42 (http://www.pep-plastic.com/manufacturers/ipscorp/ind_html/weldon42.html)

[calvin415]

You can try calling these guys...
http://www.sdplastics.com/weldon.html

Or ask your local plastic shop, mine carries 42 cartidges and mixing tips, they didn't stock the Dispenser (gun) for the 42 but ordered me in one. Took about a week.

[alpine]

Thanks guys.
My local plastics shop sucks.They only sell weld-on 3,4 and 16.Anything else has to be ordered,and they have to order a whole case which I would have to pay for.On top of all that they dont even sell cutoffs.

[alpine]

Holy cow Calvin.Did you pay $244.20 for that dispensing gun? I didnt think the gun would cost that much.

[calvin415]

I think it was close to 200, it was probably a year ago...

[das75]

wow.

and what always amazes me about DIY stuff like this, it's not even your real job.

[dzeadow]

the WO42 looks like it comes in the same containers that the epoxy for doing solid surface comes in... they have alternative guns for doing this...check this one out and see if it'd work, it's $120:

http://www.specialtytools.com/product_info.php?products_id=233

[levon15]

Updates?

Its been a great project so far.

[calvin415]

Overflow box for the sump drain is cut and ready to bend... Just need to work out a couple last minute details that are revolving around the closed loop and sump return. I may, I may not have the end against the column clear...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4275.jpg

Spent Saturday working on a nano skimmer (prototype)... Still trying to decide what will work the best for a skimmer.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/DSCN4276.jpg

[reefer4sho]

your workmanship is awesome and an inspiration to all us wannabe diy'ers! i'll be tagging along to see the final product.

[Ansphire]

My wife wants to buy a new house and I think Imma let her just so i can build a tank in it!!!!...

Thanks for sharing.

[gadgetboy]

Awesome project!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12948300#post12948300 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ansphire
My wife wants to buy a new house and I think Imma let her just so i can build a tank in it!!!!...

Thanks for sharing.

That's exactly what I'm doing, I'm house shopping with an in-wall tank in mind!

[soccerbag]

Calvin415, can you just take a week off of work and finish this thing? : )

I'm a bit jealous of your skills. Looking forward to seeing the finished product! Good work.

[nate82]

Just because it's short doesn't make it a nano... keep in mind its 12 feet long and 160 gallons!

[gadgetboy]

I don't think the skimmer was for that tank, note how he called it a prototype.

[scbauer]

Calvin, great idea! Can't wait to see it finished. I wish I still lived in CO so I could drive down and check it out (or lend a hand).

Only wish I had found this thread in another month or two so I didn't read through 7 pages and then get left hanging... wanting more... :D

-Scott

[Brandan]

I'm subscribing to this!!!! From your last builds, I expect nothing but an awesome looking tank when complete!!!! Looks great

[scbauer]

Things are coming back to me... Calvin, did you build a cube that had a really nice stand with a JBJ chiller next to it? About 60 gallons? I remember reading a great build thread about it, and I think it was Calvin415, but I think you have a new avatar.

Still love this build... question about the top. Are you planning on cutting out 2 or 3 or 4 holes, leaving some cross bracing, or are you just going to cut 1 really big hole and have it as a euro-brace style tank?

-Scott

[Doahh]

Build me one please!

[calvin415]

Holy Crap, I guess I need to start replying...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12948120#post12948120 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefer4sho
your workmanship is awesome and an inspiration to all us wannabe diy'ers! i'll be tagging along to see the final product.

Thanks, I will likely be building everything except the pumps on this one. I ordered a pair of beckett's yesterday so stay tuned for a skimmer build as well as the sump. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12948300#post12948300 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ansphire
My wife wants to buy a new house and I think Imma let her just so i can build a tank in it!!!!...

Thanks for sharing.

LOL! Story of my life, we ended up building this house since it was the only basement had a number of different tank options.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12948872#post12948872 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gadgetboy
Awesome project!



That's exactly what I'm doing, I'm house shopping with an in-wall tank in mind!

Thanks, yeah I love the inwalls, but didn't have room for a mech room behind it. Plus I have the 225 I did to keep that bug away. ;)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12949610#post12949610 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by soccerbag
Calvin415, can you just take a week off of work and finish this thing? : )

I'm a bit jealous of your skills. Looking forward to seeing the finished product! Good work.

LOL! I would if I could... I'll try to get some more progress done this weekend.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12950124#post12950124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nate82
Just because it's short doesn't make it a nano... keep in mind its 12 feet long and 160 gallons!

Didn't say it was a nano???

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12950131#post12950131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gadgetboy
I don't think the skimmer was for that tank, note how he called it a prototype.

Oh, yeah the skimmer is a nano, have no intentions of using it, just wanted to see if I could build one.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12950229#post12950229 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbauer
Calvin, great idea! Can't wait to see it finished. I wish I still lived in CO so I could drive down and check it out (or lend a hand).

Only wish I had found this thread in another month or two so I didn't read through 7 pages and then get left hanging... wanting more... :D

-Scott

LOL! Thanks Scott, if you're ever visiting and want to see it, shoot me a PM. :D

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12951940#post12951940 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brandan
I'm subscribing to this!!!! From your last builds, I expect nothing but an awesome looking tank when complete!!!! Looks great

Thanks!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12952651#post12952651 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbauer
Things are coming back to me... Calvin, did you build a cube that had a really nice stand with a JBJ chiller next to it? About 60 gallons? I remember reading a great build thread about it, and I think it was Calvin415, but I think you have a new avatar.

Still love this build... question about the top. Are you planning on cutting out 2 or 3 or 4 holes, leaving some cross bracing, or are you just going to cut 1 really big hole and have it as a euro-brace style tank?

-Scott

That's me. :D Yeah, I've gone through a number of tanks over the years, but I think this one will have to be up for a while. The top will be fully braced, both euro and cross. I plan on cutting out access holes, leaving cross braces every 24-30 inches.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12953205#post12953205 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Doahh
Build me one please!

LOL, need to get this one built first. ;)

[bucknellreefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12953652#post12953652 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415

Oh, yeah the skimmer is a nano, have no intentions of using it, just wanted to see if I could build one.


Looking for a beta tester? :bum:

[calvin415]

Overflow box is formed and welded to the end...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4285.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4288.jpg

Bulkheads fit just fine!
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4289.jpg

[moneyman6891]

That looks really good. Great build I've following and it's coming along beautifully.

[Brandan]

Overflows look very nice. What did you use to bend them? Just a strip heater?

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12958675#post12958675 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by moneyman6891
That looks really good. Great build I've following and it's coming along beautifully.

Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12958875#post12958875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brandan
Overflows look very nice. What did you use to bend them? Just a strip heater?

Thanks, actually (don't laugh) I just use a butane torch. ;)

[P.Kelly]

Clavin, do you flame polish your acrylic edges? If so, can you give a quick tutorial on how to?

TIA,

[calvin415]

I have from time to time, I'll see if I can do a video some time in the near future for you. For a quick verbal, you still want to sand any acrylic blemishes in the edges, saw blade marks will still polish with a flame, but you will still see the blade marks. Once the edge is nice and uniform take your flame (I use a propane torch) and run the flame over the edge. You want to move slow enough to allow the acrylic to gloss over, but do not move too slowly or stop as this will cause the acrylic to start to blister and eventually ignite as well. Best advise is to get lots of scraps and just practice, practice, practice.

There is no full proof technique that I've found, you just have to feel your way and know your limits, both acrylic and flame.

[DheereCrossing]

If you can clamp a staight edge to the acrylic so the acrylic can just peek over the edge and use a bearing flush trim bit in the hand router it will prep the edge nicely for flame polishing and remove any saw marks.

[calvin415]

Yes, but we're talking about flame polishing a finished product, you don't want to flame polish anything before welding it. Even after using a flush trim bit, there can still be tooling marks.

[sprinj76]

Wow awesome build and great DIY skills.

Taking notes for future projects!

[DheereCrossing]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12960729#post12960729 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Yes, but we're talking about flame polishing a finished product, you don't want to flame polish anything before welding it. Even after using a flush trim bit, there can still be tooling marks.

Yea, that's what I meant. Sorry for the confusion. You would only flame polish a non-welded edge anyway. I was specifically thinking about the inside of the top rim - I think it's called eurobracing or the top edges of baffles and such.

[P.Kelly]

Thanks. I've taken to the following 3 step process before glueing:

1. 80 tooth sawblade
2. flush router bit on a router table (to finished dimension
3. LONG sanding block with 200+ grit sand paper for any remaining markings from the router bit

Then I glue.

I'll practice with the torch.

[H20ENG]

I quit flame polishing awhile ago. The acylic just gets too stressed. It eventually leads to crazing, IME.

My trick is fine steel wool to buff the edges, then some polish. Just be sure to get ALL the steel fibers off of the acrylic. It will rust and leave stains.

Great project there,
Chris

[calvin415]

Well I spent a little time in the garage tonight... I was able to get through the rough sanding of the next display panel. I should be able to get it finished up tomorrow then all that's left is the bottom and top (not nearly as time consuming other than cutting out for bracing) then I can start putting it together!!!!

Here's another teaser on the progress. The piece on the bottom is actually a display side.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4295.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4303.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4302.jpg

[dantimdad]

That thing is going to be incredible!

I wish I had a space for it.

:)

[Doahh]

That's.... AWESOME!
Are you gonna do one in a bedroom that goes all the way around and up and over the doorway...
You could do like those cat walkways that go all the way through the house, But with SW fish and reefs instead!

[arctictwist]

That would be kool, but it would be hell to get the flow right!

[leoslizards]

Not to mention a PITA to clean.

Anyways... Calvin, are you going to use black or clear sides where the overflows are located? Is that black plexi attached to that overflow the actual end of the tank?

Everything is coming out nicely. You did a great job on the room also. I especially like how you made the stand's edges round to match the support beam. It would look nice if you also did the same to the ceiling part above it. LOL.

Are you going to make a hood for the tank or hang the light fixtures above it?

I saw the skimmer your making. Is it fully functional yet? I want to make one for my 29g and need to plan it out first. I want to know how it works. Did you make a thread for it? What's it's diameter and height?

How much did it cost to build the tank and skimmer, (acrylic only)? I saw the WO42 in that link you posted, Is that $37.45 per cartridge or 12/pk box? Can't you just use a regular caulking gun?

I guess that's all the questions I have for now. lol Sorry. :rollface: You have excellent skills and a great imagination! Keep up the good work! :D

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963816#post12963816 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dantimdad
That thing is going to be incredible!

I wish I had a space for it.

:)

Thanks, yeah the basement has been a work in progress for about 3 years and only now have I finally decided on a tank and location. :D

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963965#post12963965 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Doahh
That's.... AWESOME!
Are you gonna do one in a bedroom that goes all the way around and up and over the doorway...
You could do like those cat walkways that go all the way through the house, But with SW fish and reefs instead!

Thanks and no. :D The logistics of building something like that are just not worth the reward. Maybe sometime down the road I could try to tackle something similar but not to that scale.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12964539#post12964539 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arctictwist
That would be kool, but it would be hell to get the flow right!

Ditto!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12964776#post12964776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leoslizards
Not to mention a PITA to clean.

Anyways... Calvin, are you going to use black or clear sides where the overflows are located? Is that black plexi attached to that overflow the actual end of the tank?

Everything is coming out nicely. You did a great job on the room also. I especially like how you made the stand's edges round to match the support beam. It would look nice if you also did the same to the ceiling part above it. LOL.

Are you going to make a hood for the tank or hang the light fixtures above it?

I saw the skimmer your making. Is it fully functional yet? I want to make one for my 29g and need to plan it out first. I want to know how it works. Did you make a thread for it? What's it's diameter and height?

How much did it cost to build the tank and skimmer, (acrylic only)? I saw the WO42 in that link you posted, Is that $37.45 per cartridge or 12/pk box? Can't you just use a regular caulking gun?

I guess that's all the questions I have for now. lol Sorry. :rollface: You have excellent skills and a great imagination! Keep up the good work! :D

Yes, the black 1/2" you see the overflow attached to is the end of the tank. I had to weld the overflow to the end of the tank first as I wouldn't be able to get it in after... Can't stand a 12' tank up on end in a basement with 8' ceilings. ;)

Not sure what you mean by "do the same to the ceiling"? Above the tank also has rounded edges (entire house actually) but I'm not going to connect the tank to the top as I don't want the room to feel completely enclosed. Which leads to your next question; I will have a small canopy (140x12x4ish) which will sit right on the tank and full of fans to help pull out heat. The hole in the ceiling is a cold air return for the furnace so as much air as I can will be directed in that direction. For access I will install a pulley system to raise the canopy off the tank and suspend above it.

Just acrylic was 2 full 1/2" sheets (4'x8') of cell cast (my cost is about 250 a sheet) so that's 500 for the 4 12' pieces, the ends plus overflow box added approx 45 more so 545 in acrylic. I used 5 weldon 42 tips in the process, (you could use less if you had more room to do all the welds at once) they are 1.50 each and 1 cartridge of 42. Yes that's 37.45 per cartridge if you buy a full case (449.40 per case) else it's 49.94 per cartridge. The gun is designed for the cartridge shape (two tubes as it's a two part formula which is formed into one cartrige), so only the 42 gun will work.

Thanks for the feedback and questions. :D

Edit:

Sorry missed your skimmer question... Actually that is just a quick nano prototype which I won't be using, I just wanted to see if I could build one. I haven't had time to finish it but the outer tube is a 4" tube, the bubble diffuser is a 2" tube. The skimmer I'm going to end up building is a beckett recirc based on the MRC MR-4R which is rated for up to 1100 gallons so I think I'm going to end up switching to SPS. ;) The reason I'm going this large is to ensure I can skim 100% of the water from the overflow... I plan to dump the overflow directly into the skimmer to help remove all detritus before it can even get to the sump. Of course I don't plan on running the skimmer at full capacity but it will allow me to tune everything as my bioload increases over time. I ordered 2 becketts and the circle cutting templates for my router this week. So stay tuned for that build.

[dantimdad]

Honestly, I don't think that is a bad price to pay.

My latest project is looking to be around $650 in supplies and will hold 260 gallons. That is not even having to pay for the piece of 3/8" glass for the front.

And, I don't think mine will be nearly as cool. Just a 74x32x24 inwall. :)

If I had it to do over again, I honestly think I would do a 10' version of yours just 18x18 behind my 9' long sofa.

dantimdad

[DheereCrossing]

Are you planning an all t5 lighting scheme? If so, 4 foot bulbs x 6 all to the 3rd power gets to be pricy in bulbs alone!

[dantimdad]

I think it would make more sense to "zone light" a tank this long.

IOW, make reef areas of rock and light directly over them with t5's. The open areas may not even need lighting depending on the spread or could easily get by with t8's.

Besides, 15" front to back could be covered by 4 t5's.

dantimdad

[DheereCrossing]

Yea, you're right - I thought the zones would work best and look great but I thought this was going to be a full length frag tank?;)

[calvin415]

Yeah, I plan on using a 8x54w and 4x39w to cover the lighting needs. Total will be 588 Watts. Add in the Dart for the CL, a PW200 for the skimmer and something small for the return pump plus a 500w heater and I'll be about 1500w. Not too bad... I have a dedicated 20A circuit for the tank so I'll be fine.

Largest pain will be replacing 12 T-5 bulbs, at 300 bucks but even that can be subsidized with a few acrylic projects or selling some small frags/riccordia...

[melev]

What a great thread. All your pictures, your videos... the detailed explanations and your ability to answer every question -- :thumbsup:

I have an idea about the joint line, but don't know if it would work or if you even want to deal with it on this project:

Since you have it bonded together, what about using a router bit that has the V-shaped tip? Clamp your straight-edge so the router can't wander, and run it right up the joint. Then fill that valley with 42 and sand it again. I don't know if that would work or not, but if you have scrap and feel the need to find out, let us know. :D

Glad I'm subscribed to your project. Keep up the good work.

[nanO352]

Great tank I can't wait to see more of your awesome DIy!!!!!!!!!!:D :D :D

[calvin415]

Thanks for the idea Marc, don't think I'll try it on this project since I just finished sanding out the 2nd display sides over the last two days (don't want to re-live that). This 2nd side is very clean, I think it's just a matter of getting the material really filled and then really sanded back down, so as long at the 42 sands and polishes well it sounds like that could work! I'll probably try it on some scraps to see if it's a viable option as a fix if I have the stones to try something like this again down the road. :D

Thanks nanO352, I'll be documenting everything I can.

[daw422]

The build looks great so far! The proportions should look great. Do you have any idea how you're going to aquascape it yet?

[MIKE HUNT]

wow, very nice work so far!

[calvin415]

I plan on using marco rock and building lots of islands along the length. It will have numerous CL intakes and outputs along the bottom which will need to be covered in rock work. :D

Thanks for the feedback.

[foofooree]

so... You gonna give some updates this weekend? ;)

[foofooree]

so... You gonna give some updates this weekend? ;)

[Chihuahua6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12992880#post12992880 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
I plan on using marco rock and building lots of islands along the length. It will have numerous CL intakes and outputs along the bottom which will need to be covered in rock work. :D

Thanks for the feedback.

Just an FYI I priced out Marco Rock and then Live Aquaria live foundation rock and it was about the same price even with express shipping from LA which is expensive. The base rock from LA is live. It's just not covered in coralline.

[GIJOE007]

I can see the finished product in my head already....your gonna have one unique looking tank, thats for sure!!! Great progress, cant wait to see the panels in place....tagging along, and keep up the good work :-)

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13011545#post13011545 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by foofooree
so... You gonna give some updates this weekend? ;)

I'll get some more pics of progress by this weekend. I hope to finish sanding and polishing the last piece and can then cut the top.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13012299#post13012299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chihuahua6
Just an FYI I priced out Marco Rock and then Live Aquaria live foundation rock and it was about the same price even with express shipping from LA which is expensive. The base rock from LA is live. It's just not covered in coralline.

I appreciate the thought, but the advantages I find with Marco rock over live rock (I've set up a number of tanks over the years) is this:

It's dry which means it's lighter; therefore you get more rock/lb.
It's dead rock which means I can place it exactly where I want it and or build structures before the tank get's any water in it without worry about dieoff.
There are no mantis shrimp, no aptasia, no bubble algea, and no other pests.
There is no need to "cook" the rock.
It can be seeded with live rock and will be live and covered in coraline just the same.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13012316#post13012316 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GIJOE007
I can see the finished product in my head already....your gonna have one unique looking tank, thats for sure!!! Great progress, cant wait to see the panels in place....tagging along, and keep up the good work :-)

Thanks, I hope to start assembly next week (as long as I can get the top cut this weekend).

[Chihuahua6]

Good points Calvin. I hadn't figured the weight of the water into the equation. I have heard from some that they needed to cook their rock though due to the attached dried up stuff on it. I ordered some a couple of years ago and it was very clean though so who knows?

Do you have an idea how much water weight is held in the rock?

[calvin415]

It's really hard to say, depends on how porous the rock is, some rocks are just plain heavy even with no water (FL rock=just plain heavy). I've played with Marco rock before and it was VERY light in comparison. When it comes to buying rock, unless you are looking for hitch hikers and freebies, you get a lot more for less when it's dry.

IME, I get less good stuff and more bad stuff with LR. If I feel I need something more, I'll buy it and add it to the tank. I'm tired of starting a tank by trying to get rid of pests that came in on the rock. I'd rather just start with a clean slate, that way if anything comes in, I can only blame myself.

[Kentanner11]

Is Marco's rock man made?

[Chihuahua6]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13015448#post13015448 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kentanner11
Is Marco's rock man made?

They have Fiji rock that is not man made and Florida rock which I don't know what its origins are.

I guess I have been lucky with my live rock so far. I haven't had many pests at all. I believe in adding fresh live rock from time to time to keep my sand bed seeded with new fauna. I do quarantine my rock though and observe it for any nuisance organisms.

[Kentanner11]

Hmm. I have to look at the site- I would prefer something man-made.

[mnash]

I love the length that this tank is going to have. I can't wait to see it come together!

[hiendmusic1]

Nice work

[tundra1000]

This is such a unique project, I always get excited when I see a notice in my inbox. Any progress with the tank itself and I know you mentioned 2 cl's. Are you going to have lengthwise flow or try to randomize it. Are the returns going to be at the opposite end as the overflow to make sure you have full turnover and no static areas?

[jeff127]

Wow very different size than anything I have seen before. I'm really looking forward to seeing the rest of the project and in particular the scaping.


Good luck,

Jeff.

[calli]

WOW very nice.. can't wait to even just see it with water in there!!

[jmccomb420]

hitchin' a ride, can't wait to see some more progress.

[James11]

We need some updates here, I need my fix. Everything looks great so far.

[foofooree]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13046018#post13046018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by James11
We need some updates here, I need my fix. Everything looks great so far.
x2!!!

[yousmellsfishy]

X3:hammer:

[jpa0741]

Amazing build you have going. I love long shallow tanks as my in wall is 96"x36"x16". I can't wait to see this thing with water in it. Marco rock is a great choice. I also started with dry rock so that I could take my time and get it aquascaped the way I like. I am subscribed!

[calli]

x4

[cdentii1]

X5

[cdentii1]

X5

[mnash]

Marco rock is a very good way to go in my opinion. I went this rout on my tank and made one small mistake. I think I should have cured it prior to putting it in the tank. I think it has slowly been leeching out phosphates and contributing to some bad hair algae. I might be completely wrong but the rock looks to be the most logical way for the phosphates to have gottin into my tank. About a year later (now) they are starting to dissapate and the algae is dying off. The nice thing is that when the hair algae dies on a rock it reveals all of the pretty coraline algae that is underneath.

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13022207#post13022207 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
I love the length that this tank is going to have. I can't wait to see it come together!

Thanks! Hopefully it will start to become a tank soon...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13024930#post13024930 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hiendmusic1
Nice work

Thanks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13025790#post13025790 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tundra1000
This is such a unique project, I always get excited when I see a notice in my inbox. Any progress with the tank itself and I know you mentioned 2 cl's. Are you going to have lengthwise flow or try to randomize it. Are the returns going to be at the opposite end as the overflow to make sure you have full turnover and no static areas?

Updates are coming... Flow will be done with a single Dart powering the CL. I will have multiple 1" drains feeding a 2" pipe to supply the Dart, which will then force water back through multiple ports. Each return will have a T to force the water to both display sides. Each side will have the water in the same direction hoping to create whirlpool effect along the bottom. Yes the return will force the water across the top to the overflow.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13026802#post13026802 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jeff127
Wow very different size than anything I have seen before. I'm really looking forward to seeing the rest of the project and in particular the scaping.


Good luck,

Jeff.

Thanks Jeff!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13027564#post13027564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calli
WOW very nice.. can't wait to even just see it with water in there!!

Thanks! Me too!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13030157#post13030157 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmccomb420
hitchin' a ride, can't wait to see some more progress.

Thanks! Updates are coming...

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13046018#post13046018 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by James11
We need some updates here, I need my fix. Everything looks great so far.

Coming right up. :D

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13046857#post13046857 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jpa0741
Amazing build you have going. I love long shallow tanks as my in wall is 96"x36"x16". I can't wait to see this thing with water in it. Marco rock is a great choice. I also started with dry rock so that I could take my time and get it aquascaped the way I like. I am subscribed!

Thanks! I can't wait to start aquascaping!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13048855#post13048855 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnash
Marco rock is a very good way to go in my opinion. I went this rout on my tank and made one small mistake. I think I should have cured it prior to putting it in the tank. I think it has slowly been leeching out phosphates and contributing to some bad hair algae. I might be completely wrong but the rock looks to be the most logical way for the phosphates to have gottin into my tank. About a year later (now) they are starting to dissapate and the algae is dying off. The nice thing is that when the hair algae dies on a rock it reveals all of the pretty coraline algae that is underneath.

I've heard those same horror stories before... :( I figure all the LR I've had in the past has all kinds of coraline on it out of the box just to have it turn white and have to wait for it to grow back. Why not just save the headache?


Well, here's today's update, I sucessfully sanded and polished all the 12' pieces (both sides) and have them all cut to length (rough cut as everything will be routered flush). The frame for the doors is built and ready for paint, I'm trying to locate some doors. I left a msg with a place today, still no call back. :(

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4308.jpg

I have my becketts for my skimmer but still need to finalize the size details before I order the acrylic.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4306.jpg

The top for the tank has begun and man is it time consuming... Yes I could have taken James advice and built templates, but hey it's just not my style. :( I hate to build templates if I have no intentions of mass production. (Sorry James)... Instead I draw out the cuts I need to make, then drill out the corners with a 4" Dia hole saw (the rounded corners are for extra strength) in the top. And finally (not pictured as I haven't started yet) I use the router and cut tangent to tangent... Top will require a total of 28 holes drilled and then 56 cuts (28 rough cuts and 28 final cuts) with a router. Man, when I write it all out it makes me think I should have built a template... :rolleyes: Oh well...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4309.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4310.jpg

Thanks for following along!

[calvin415]

Oh and I ordered a 15g water barrel for my ATO reservoir... Should fit perfectly under the stand. Oh and I just got a call back about the cabinets doors so those are now ordered. Should be here next Friday...

[melev]

That will work out fine, but a template clamped beneath the acrylic will make it super easy. If you make two of them, you can do the rough route and then the finishing route. Be sure to use a brand new bit for the finish route. With 6 openings, I'd make the template for sure.

However, when I had to make one irregular top for a club tank, I did exactly what you are doing, then routed out from hole to hole:

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/fragtank/dfwmas_tank2.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/proptank/proptank_end_to_end.jpg

[calvin415]

Grrrrrr, thanks for confusing me more Marc. ;) We'll see what kind of scraps I can put together for a template.

[melev]

I would just get a single sheet of MDF and create two patterns. Do just like you were going to do with the router, pre-drilling those holes. Make sure your MDF is long enough that when you clamp the acrylic to it, the router won't hit the clamps. It would be nice to just route without interruption, right?

James says if you can blow air on the router bit as you route, you'll get a cleaner cut. I've never tried that as I'm not sure how I could do that. I tend to keep both hands on the router handles. ;)

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13050559#post13050559 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
James says if you can blow air on the router bit as you route, you'll get a cleaner cut. I've never tried that as I'm not sure how I could do that. I tend to keep both hands on the router handles. ;)

Guess I'll get a straw and take lots of deep breaths. ;) I'll have to see if I can get a second body to run an air hose... I also keep both hands on the router. LOL!

[DheereCrossing]

Marc - that's a cood design - who was that one for?

Oh, and depending on the router, I've had dust collection that works and some that doesn't. The best method I've found is having someone follow with the vaccuum hose. Since you're such an acrylic guy, why not make a subase for the router with a bracket on it to hold your vac hose at the right angle.

[FiSHy sAy HeY]

Taggin along...cant wait to see the final product

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13052266#post13052266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DheereCrossing
Since you're such an acrylic guy, why not make a subase for the router with a bracket on it to hold your vac hose at the right angle.

I think it would tough to build a sub-base thin enough for the router bit to still stick down low enough to cut and thick enough to be an effective vac... If you have some pics, I'd love to see how it could work. I think a side mount for an air hose would be easier and more effective though...

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13052266#post13052266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DheereCrossing
Marc - that's a cood design - who was that one for?

Oh, and depending on the router, I've had dust collection that works and some that doesn't. The best method I've found is having someone follow with the vaccuum hose. Since you're such an acrylic guy, why not make a subase for the router with a bracket on it to hold your vac hose at the right angle.

That tank belongs to DFWMAS, and a few other members built the stand. That way we'd have a tank for Next Wave each year.

I'm guessing pressurize air would work if it were affixed to the router and on in a steady stream while routing. I don't think James has ever posted pictures of this particular recommendation, and I've only read about it and never really tried to do it.

[H20ENG]

"Guess I'll get a straw and take lots of deep breaths"

I'm sure I'm not the only one who has inhaled acrylic flakes deep up into my sinuses...

I have not made an air nozzle jig yet either, but I'm positive it would help. I get chip buildup when rough cutting and sometimes the flakes will interfere with the bearing, leaving a trail along the bearing path.

[melev]

What I do to avert that is to either run blue painter's masking tape along the bearings' path, or spray the bearing with WD-40 before each run.

[DheereCrossing]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13052558#post13052558 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
I think it would tough to build a sub-base thin enough for the router bit to still stick down low enough to cut and thick enough to be an effective vac... If you have some pics, I'd love to see how it could work. I think a side mount for an air hose would be easier and more effective though...

What bit do you use? I would use a 3/8" spiral bit and if it doesn't make a full cut, flip the stock and make a second pass with a flush trim bit.

I haven't made the base but I'd say using 1/4" would be fine. I'd even add a handle while I'm at it.

What router do you use? If I have the same model I might be able to come up with something to send you.

[leoslizards]

You could get a compressor, zip tie the hose to the router's power cord and duct tape the hose end to the front of the router pointing it down to the bit. Doesn't seem to hard. :|

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13058625#post13058625 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leoslizards
You could get a compressor, zip tie the hose to the router's power cord and duct tape the hose end to the front of the router pointing it down to the bit. Doesn't seem to hard. :|

You're right, Zip Ties and Duct Tape would work but would look like hell. I'd rather just get another set of hands to help.

What is hard is to engineer a piece of equipment that would not only look good but allow a safe setup and dis-assembly for a long term solution that will not damage your tools... I know I don't want to keep putting on and taking off duct tape on my router every time I needed to use an airhose. Plus there is too much risk IMO to have an air hose just taped to a router.

[leoslizards]

LOL True. Then your best bet would be to make some sort of detachable plexi glass base as someone else already mentioned.

[calvin415]

Alright Marc, took your advise, so here's a quick summary of both techniques...

The first is without a jig and would probably apply to most nano tanks, as they don't need any cross bracing (well most)... Please mind the pics, I'm still in the process of finishing the top but wanted to show you the steps.

First, mark out your area...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4309.jpg

Next, drill out each corner with a 1-2" radius (2-4" diamater) hole saw, this step is important as the curve really strengthens the bracing. I've seen many tops crack in these corners when they are cut to a square or small radius.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4310.jpg

Next is to router from tangent to tangent along the edge of your access hole. First is clamp a straight edge alone the line to give your router a guide, or you can move it in a little for a quick rough cut and allow for an easy and clean final pass.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4335.jpg

Rough cut
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4333.jpg

Final pass
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4334.jpg

Do this for all 4 edges.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4332.jpg

And you're done.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4331.jpg

[calvin415]

Okay, so here's the steps with a jig. First you have to build the jig, and this is done by using the same method we just did but with MDF or another suitable material. Then position the jig where you want the access hole.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4323.jpg

Drill a pilot hole...
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4324.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4325.jpg

Here is the router bit I use... It's a flush trim bit, but with the bearing mounted on the bottom instead.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4329.jpg

I run an initial pass as a rough cut and then a final pass to remove the last of the material. This final pass reduces chipping and heat on the bit as there is less material to remove.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4330.jpg

And done.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4331.jpg

Be warned... I vaccumed between each shot, as you, your router, your acrylic, and work space will be covered in this!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4337.jpg

[leoslizards]

Nice job, so which method did you like best? Did you make a separate templet for each cut (rough and final), or did you just rout the rough cut a lit bit away from the jig's edge and moved it in closer for the final?

[melev]

Calvin, it looks like you routed the wrong direction as it wandered all over the place. Next hole you do, route the opposite direction. When I route out the top flange of a sump, I route clockwise. With your bearing on the top of the bit, I don't know if that matters...

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/first_route.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/first_edge.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/routed_end.jpg

Btw, just a personal preference but I prefer MDF over particle board or chip board. It is a smoother path.

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/routed.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/removal.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/clamped.jpg

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/diy/perfect.jpg

I use this type of bit, the opposite of yours:

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/tools/laminate_trimming_bit.jpg

Your point about a larger radius is excellent. For what you are doing, that is far better than the corners you saw in my example above.

[melev]

One thing you can do for a rough cut out is use screen molding inside the perimeter of the final template, but it won't help in the round corners. Then you could pull it out for the final cut.

[foofooree]

nice, thanks for taking the time to show us the steps and everything ;)

[leoslizards]

Hmm, I found two pieces of old plexi glass in my back yard. They're about 12' by 3' by 1/4". The problem is that they are a bit scratched and have turned yellow. Is there a way to remove the scratches and make them clear again? I would like to try a similar project with them.

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13065681#post13065681 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Calvin, it looks like you routed the wrong direction as it wandered all over the place. Next hole you do, route the opposite direction. When I route out the top flange of a sump, I route clockwise. With your bearing on the top of the bit, I don't know if that matters...

Your point about a larger radius is excellent. For what you are doing, that is far better than the corners you saw in my example above.

Marc, I did go in the right direction, it just wandered because I free handed the rough cut (I kept the bearing away from the template). I only did 1 template so it was a free hand job to remove the bulk first. Routers all spin in the same direction, so everyone should go clockwise (I do). I too have the other bits, but putting the template on top allowed me to get it exactly where I wanted it. With the masking paper I wouldn't be able to tell if it was straight if I were to put in on the bottom? Plus the top is so long and heavy, so this was much easier and I was able to see the template so I wasn't cutting blind. :D

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13066868#post13066868 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leoslizards
Hmm, I found two pieces of old plexi glass in my back yard. They're about 12' by 3' by 1/4". The problem is that they are a bit scratched and have turned yellow. Is there a way to remove the scratches and make them clear again? I would like to try a similar project with them.

Scratches can be sanded out as I showed earlier in the thread, but if it's yellow, it's yellow... I'd be cautious if you have a piece of acrylic longer than 10' Unless it was a custom cast ($$$$$) it's not cell cast.

[calvin415]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13065641#post13065641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leoslizards
Nice job, so which method did you like best? Did you make a separate templet for each cut (rough and final), or did you just rout the rough cut a lit bit away from the jig's edge and moved it in closer for the final?

Sorry, just saw this one... I actually enjoyed the template more, it was so much quicker and more consitent. :D I should have built 2 templates, but when I tried to build the first one, my straight edge moved (didn't get the clamp tight enough I guess???) and it ruined the first try. I only had enough material left for 1 template so that is what I went with.

I did just want you said, rough cut a little bit away from the jig and then remove the last of it in a smooth cutting motion.

I would recommend having 2 bits, to do this though. My bit is 3/4" diameter so rough cutting with it really removes a lot of material and really wears on the bit. I may remove a little more material on the template and do another final pass with a brand new bit for the best edge I can get. Another 1/32-1/16" isn't going to matter.

[calvin415]

Top is done! :D Stay tuned for assembly shots...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4343.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4340.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4346.jpg

I also got my ATO reservoir today in the mail... 15g w/ bulkhead in the bottom.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y242/calvin415/Ultimate%20Nano%20Projects/DSCN4344.jpg

[melev]

Wait... that template made this job easier and quicker? I take back all of my advice. :lol: