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lapizzaro
06/04/2008, 09:58 AM
I am fighting a terrible outbreak of bryopsis and have tried most "solutions" eg slugs, crabs etc. During the initial outbreak, I screwed up by scraping the rocks in the display and not siphoning out the water . I am going to attack this in multiple ways

a) I am ordering a new and better skimmer - a H&S 200 3X F2001 - the A250 is a possibility also.
b) I am going to do more frequent water changes - about 10% weekly
c) I am changing out my phosphate remover more frequently
d) I am going to boost my refugiums
e) I am going to cut down my light schedule to 6-8 hours

Finally I need a UV - I know the pros and cons but I have to resort
to drastic measures. Or would that not help?

Any advice is appreciated

Black Mammoth
06/04/2008, 10:06 AM
Some of the stuff you mentioned will probably help get rid of the source of the problem. But now that you already have it, you may to to get some Blue Knuckled Crabs. Those guys will mow that stuff down in no time. The problem with those guys that they are a bit on the bigger side and can knock some frags around. Also, if you get too many, they will start to die off due to the lack of food.

kkenn
06/04/2008, 10:30 AM
You should use this method,it works http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...hreadid=1113109

kkenn
06/04/2008, 10:34 AM
You should check out this thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/s...hreadid=1113109

kkenn
06/04/2008, 10:36 AM
sorry I dont know why I cannot post the link

lapizzaro
06/04/2008, 11:06 AM
Who originated the thread and what's the title. Thanks

SeanT
06/04/2008, 12:49 PM
"Cook" your rocks...works everytime.


The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.

Black Mammoth
06/04/2008, 01:36 PM
Hey Sean,

I basically did the same thing when I upgraded from my 75 to 90g...yeah I know...small upgrade, but it was reef ready...anyway...

The guy at my LFS (also named Sean) who is very reputable recommended the same thing but using fresh water (RO/DI). He said it would kill off any algae or plant residue and keep the good bacteria as it isn't affected by fresh water. I did the same process and I even used a semi firm bristle brush to scrub the rocks every so often. I used a heater and power heads. I was doing weekly water changes. About half way through I think I only did one more.

I didn't go through a cycle and I had some pretty clean rock when it was said and done. However, I did lose a lot of sponges. I lost most of them, but I was fine with that. I have a lot of pods in my tank and never introduced anything to my tank to bring in pods. So obviously they made it through my 8+ weeks of "cooking." But sure enough, I still got bryopsis and some other types of algaes. I was/am using a UV sterilizer using a flow rate to kill bacteria.

So what am I saying? I think that the cooking process is good, but it isn't fool proof. I think think there will always be some kind of cell residue left around for this stuff to reproduce.

BTW, do you see any disadvantages of using FW instead of SW besides killing off sponges and possibly more pods?

SeanT
06/04/2008, 02:03 PM
The problem is you most likely killed off the bacteria needed to bore into the rock and consume the PO4 by using FW.

Using FW you can certainly kill all the algae on the rock without a doubt...but you aren't gettin the algaes fuel, phosphates, from within.

Black Mammoth
06/04/2008, 02:42 PM
Thanks!

JPA
06/04/2008, 03:00 PM
Search for a thread titled "Finally an easy solution to bryopsis!" Basically raise your magnesium levels. I did that and added lettuce nudis and my small patch went away in a few weeks and has not returned in 6 months.

Joe

bogg
06/04/2008, 07:17 PM
I second the above mention of the thread, basicly you raise your magnesium using tech m from kent. Raise it to over 1500-1600 for 3 mo. I did this with one gallon of tech m and I still have some left. I got mine at marine depot, I am about done completely with the bryopsis, this has been a successfull treatment for me finaly after enduring this green demon for years. Allthough I do think it did make my snails a little lathargic.

06/05/2008, 03:32 PM
You can also use ice melt to raise your Mg. Check out the Chemistry Forum for the name of the product and the recipe.

lapizzaro
06/05/2008, 03:55 PM
I have Seachem's Reef Magnesium will that work ?

JPA
06/05/2008, 09:35 PM
I think any of them will work as long as you can raise it high enough. I used the mag part of Randy's 2-part.

mike660r
06/06/2008, 03:54 PM
I have also found that my halloween urchin eats the bryopsis. I have two small spots that I am aware of. I just turn the rock every now and again and it eats it down.

bogg
06/06/2008, 05:18 PM
In the thread the main thing that worked was using the Kent tech m there is something in it that seems to work. I tried the 2 part for over 4 mo. and it did'nt work. I had this problem and now I don't thanks to the tech m and manual removal.

yossi-liani
06/06/2008, 05:46 PM
hi

i found that carbon inj (vodka)works very good.
it has been take only 2 weeks to remove all bryopsis.

yossi.

lapizzaro
06/10/2008, 12:26 PM
Yossi - vodka? how does that work?