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watergator
07/03/2008, 11:36 AM
I have a stony frag (orchid) that is brown in color, but has developed a whitening at the base. Does this mean it's going to die or is it salvagable? Any comments are welcome...

acrodave
07/03/2008, 11:41 AM
what kind of stony a lps sps. a pic would help and some info on the tank

watergator
07/03/2008, 11:50 AM
I'll take a pic. My tank is a 180G (200 System) with BK180 skimmer. Just did a water test and everything looked good. I have a rio 2100 for in-tank circulation along with a couple of low-flow powerheads...

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:08 PM
I give up, the pic won't post...

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:13 PM
Pic won't post...

PSam
07/03/2008, 12:16 PM
I would frag what you can before the TN takes the whole coral

bph0013
07/03/2008, 12:16 PM
Yeah, that looks like it's STNing or RTNing. I would try to frag off the healthy pieces though often when the process begins at the base the coral's chances of surviving are not good. I would definitely think about replacing the Rio or at least keeping an eye on it. They are cheaper powerheads that tend to fail and spill their guts into the aquarium killing everything in the process.

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:19 PM
Thanks, I'll frag it later tonight... I guess I was hoping I wouldn't have to.

bph0013
07/03/2008, 12:23 PM
I have a Miami Orchid that survived TN and is making a comeback but chances for a piece surviving are usually much greater if you frag it. It's up to you. If you can isolate what's causing it, i.e., alk/calcium/magnesium problems, temp fluctuations, insufficient lighting, insufficient flow, etc. that might allow you to save it whole.

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:25 PM
My Calcium was high (600), but I did a water change. Maybe that was it...

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:26 PM
Why won't the pics show up? I hit the IMG and added the link (it worked before with no problem)

LobsterOfJustice
07/03/2008, 12:28 PM
Whats your alkalinity level, and what are you doing to maintain it?

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:32 PM
My daughter is testing it right now. Not really doing anything to maintain it though...

watergator
07/03/2008, 12:38 PM
2.86 Alk

I only use water from my lfs. I don't mix my own water. Maybe that keeps my alk at safe levels???

bph0013
07/03/2008, 01:51 PM
I would definitely ask them how often they change their filters. That calcium is pretty high. Did you get your ph and MG tested? Also what are you other parameters such as specific gravity, temp., etc.?

watergator
07/03/2008, 02:10 PM
My Ph is always 8.0 to 8.2, water temp is 78, Nitrite 0, & Phosphate 0. I ran out of ammonia tests. Specific gravity at 1.021.
I just removed a large condy anemone. It wasn't touching the coral, but I read that they release chemicals into the water...

PSam
07/03/2008, 02:24 PM
1.021 is pretty low for a stony reef.

I'd slowly (as in, over the course of a week) kick that up to at least 1.024, if not 1.025.

MMM33732
07/03/2008, 02:46 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12874583#post12874583 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PSam
1.021 is pretty low for a stony reef.

I'd slowly (as in, over the course of a week) kick that up to at least 1.024, if not 1.025.
Agreed

bph0013
07/03/2008, 07:00 PM
ditto, I keep mine at 1.025 and have an sps dominated reef.

Bambalam
07/03/2008, 10:40 PM
I would raise the salinity to 1.025 within a couple days. That frag might not make it a week. JMO

abulgin
07/04/2008, 05:34 AM
I agree on the SG-shoot for 1.025 or 1.026.

Your alk is also too low. Altough NSW is 2.5 meq./L or so, you should keep it between 3.5-4 meq./L. Buy a buffer and a good alk test kit, and start dosing.

I don't think excess calcium would cause TN, although I agree 600 is way too high. Shoot for 400-450. The status of the LFS's filters would have no bearing on this. It's either their salt mix or they are dosing calcium (more likely). You will save (money and piece of mind) in the long run if you buy a decent RO/DI unit and mix your own water. You can get these pretty cheaply (my 6 stage was $115 and works great). Reef Crystals (a good quality salt) is also cheap at about $35 for a 160 gallon bucket.

I too have had this problem on a few SPS. I have a nice Monti cap that has just gone through it's second round on TN at the base--and its second fragging effort to cut away (with a dremmel) the dying portion. I also have a small Acro mille that is showing some TN or bleaching in spots at it's base. These are the only 2 out of 15 SPS that have done this. I read somewhere that some SPS death/failure is inevitable--that if you can keep 80 percent alive/healthy you're doing well. Don't know if this is true, but it makes me feel good!