Radium (250vs400)in my SPS tank

[7thheaven]

Hi all~

I have 20inches depth 100gal SPS tank.

400W Radium+Lumen bright is too many light in my tank?

I can not decide the 250 and 400w radium yet.

Thanks in advance~!!

:)

[Mikigo]

Go with 250w HQI ballast with 20" depth. Great choice.

[kdblove_99]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12957285#post12957285 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mikigo
Go with 250w HQI ballast with 20" depth. Great choice.
Definitely agree

[7thheaven]

Thanks Mikigo and kdblove_99~

With 250w Radium, Can I keep SPS in the bottom?

Can I have good growth and color? (of course without consideration of water quality & flow)

How long should I maintain the photoperiod?

If I use 400w radium, I am thinking the photoperiod is 4~6 hours

[rutz81]

I use a 250W Radium with an HQI Ballast and a Lumenbright reflector. It is very bright!! My tank is only 16" tall, but, you will defintely not have a problem keeping SPS on the bottom. Make sure the reflector is atleast 12-14" above the water. There was an article a month or so back on Lumenbrights in Advanced Aquarist, it helps keep the tank cool and prevent super hot spots which would happen if the light was kept at lower heights....

[ReefWreak]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've been told by someone locally that running Radiums on the PFO HQI ballasts (overdriving them) will lead to a very short lifespan of the bulb, whether it's before it burns out (doubtful) or before a sharp decline in PAR and/or color shift. Any thoughts?

[rutz81]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12958310#post12958310 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefWreak
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've been told by someone locally that running Radiums on the PFO HQI ballasts (overdriving them) will lead to a very short lifespan of the bulb, whether it's before it burns out (doubtful) or before a sharp decline in PAR and/or color shift. Any thoughts?

400W you are correct, but, the 250's are made for the PFO HQI Ballast

[ReefWreak]

Very interesting. Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of running the 250w radiums over my tank next time I change my bulbs. Either the Radiums or XM20ks. I've got one Icecap 250w e-ballast and 1 coralvue 250w e-ballast. The Radiums are almost 50% more money, and I'm unsure of the colors I'll get from them (They're whiter on HQI, and bluer on M58 or other lower wattage magnetics, but what will they look like on e-ballasts?!).

[ganjero]

The radiums look bluer on eballasts, and for the 250w the life spam will actually be reduced to 6-8 months on an eballast.

[rutz81]

what is the life span of the 250W Radiums on a PFO HQI Ballast?

[PUGroyale]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959072#post12959072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero
The radiums look bluer on eballasts, and for the 250w the life spam will actually be reduced to 6-8 months on an eballast.

I run mine on IC eballasts and they're not too blue at all IMO... Please explain how the lifespan is shorter on the eballasts. If the 250w lamps are designed to be run on the hqi ballasts, how is under driving them on eballasts going to shorten their life? I've heard precisely the opposite...

[rutz81]

7thheaven: Here's some good info on the Lumenbright in case you missed it.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php

[ganjero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959111#post12959111 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PUGroyale
I run mine on IC eballasts and they're not too blue at all IMO... Please explain how the lifespan is shorter on the eballasts. If the 250w lamps are designed to be run on the hqi ballasts, how is under driving them on eballasts going to shorten their life? I've heard precisely the opposite...
Underdriving a bulb equals to not driving it correctly which ruins the bulb sooner, the same happens for DE bulbs, it is not visible but PAR readings after 6 months show that PAR decreased about 60-70%. There has been many discussions about this, let me do a search and Ill give you links.

The life spam of radium 250w on HQI ballast is about 12 months

[ReefWreak]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959368#post12959368 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero
Underdriving a bulb equals to not driving it correctly which ruins the bulb sooner, the same happens for DE bulbs, it is not visible but PAR readings after 6 months show that PAR decreased about 60-70%. There has been many discussions about this, let me do a search and Ill give you links.

The life spam of radium 250w on HQI ballast is about 12 months

I'm interested in seeing what you come up with. I remember there was an article in ReefKeeping mag a a while back about how the largest drop in PAR was over the first 3 months of the bulb. After that initial drop of 30-45% in power, the rest lost about 10-15% of output per year. Hence why some people swap out their halide bulbs every 90 days and then sell them in the used forum. Some people want that 90 day "high", and some don't care, because they want more longevity out of their bulb than a high up-front power production. I personally try to run my bulbs for as long as they'll last (not a great track record :( I've splashed most of my bulbs before the end of their first year)

I'm wondering if the delta of change/time in output for the Radiums is more or less than it is of any other bulb... Hmmmmm.... Oh the research that will never be done....

[hyperfocal]

I'm interested in seeing those articles too -- several recent articles indicate that most of the PAR loss is in the first 2 or 3 months, then stays relatively level for well over a year (with some loss of intensity in the blue spectrum).

Based on what I've read thus far, it seems that suggestions to replace bulbs every 6 to 9 months benefits the bulb manufacturers & retailers, not the hobbyist (by a long shot).

[spleify]

I'm running a Radium on an ARO ballast from Hello lights with a DYI Lumenarc III reflector. It is very blue. I was running an SPS 20K bulb, and the radium is way bluer than the 20K SPS.

My lights are about 14" off the water and my tank is 26" tall. The par at the top of the water line is 450 about half way down it is between 250-300 and on the sand bed it is between 150 and 225. I like the par but the bulb is very blue. I like the blue hue of the SPS, put the par was half of the Radium. I also have a 14K Hamilton I will be checking the PAR on.

HTH

Spleify

-EDITED- this is a 250W fixture.

[ReefWreak]

The PAR for the 14k hamiltons is supposed to be HORRIBLE but I'm interested in seeing what you find. The ARO ballasts are Magnetic, right? Do you know the ANSI number?

If you're getting that much PAR at the bottom of the tank with a Luminarc-replica, and it's blue, so it's being underdriven, then I've got nothing to worry about, right?

Are those PAR numbers good? Is PAR=PPFD? I forget, it's been a while since I've done bulb research. Maybe one of those propellerhead T5 nerds will jump in and cite how much PAR they get on their sandbeds :p

Thanks for the help spleify!

[nightOwl]

Tagging along since I will be setting up a frag tank soon and was thinking about 250 watt over it. Are the radiums double ended that are running on the HQI ballast? Sorry for the silly question just trying to make sure I understand the 250 bulb a little better and how it may be underdriven or overdriven. I saw they have double ended reflectors as well so just trying to get me list of items togehter.

Thanks

[spleify]

My bulb is SE nightOwl

Reefwreak the ballast is Electronic. Sorry but I don't know what ANSI means.
Here is the description from Hellolights web site.

Item Code: 61003
Detailed Description
The ARO electronic ballast is nice looking and best of all, its easy to set up. It will run any 250 watt lamp and comes with a 3 year warranty. * UL approved
* 250W Electronic Ballast: Energy Saving - up to 25%
* Extended Lamp Life - up to 25%
* Consistent Lamp Color
* Uniform Lumen Output
* Reduced Lamp Flicker
* Cool, Silent Operation
* Long Ballast Life
* 120VAC, 250W, 2.2Amps
* Works with all 250W lamps.
* Works with 250W HQI double ended lamps.
* One lamp ballast.
* 3 year warranty.
* Power factor >90%, Lamp Current Crest Factor < 1.8.
* 8 1/2" x 3 3/4" x 2 1/8" (LxWxH)
Here is the ballast

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_1360.jpg

I don't really know if these are good readings or not either. I will be interested in seeing what the 14K Hamiltoms are puting out. I will switch it out tomorrow morning before the lights come on and test a couple hours after they come on and reply back here.

Spleify

[ReefWreak]

Oh okay indidnt know that they were electronic. The ansi applies to magnetic only. Have the hamiltons been burned in or are they brand new? Gah I wish I had a par meter, cause I've got 6 month old hamiltons, which is right when the initial higher-than-normal par timing is.

Sorry if I'm making less sense, but I'm home on by newfangled blueberry device talking on RC cause I don't have internet at home...

[7thheaven]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959148#post12959148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rutz81
7thheaven: Here's some good info on the Lumenbright in case you missed it.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-06/review/index.php

Thanks, I missed it. I will read this article..
:thumbsup:

Thanks for great information everyone~!!

What is the proper ballast for 250 Radium? e-ballast? Magnetic?
HQI? How about 400w Radium?

I heared the 250and 400watt bulb are different.

And..Dear 250w Radium User~!!!
Could you tell me your tank photoperiod?

Thanks again~!!

[ganjero]

Radium 250w is a true HQI bulb even though is SE.

Here is quotation from DarG:
"The issue isnt simply cut and dry that the M80 drives the lamp harder and hotter so it wont ;last as long. That's excellent BS electronic ballast marketing type though because it's so easy to accept at face value. There are other issues at play. There is information that M80 ballast shows improved lumen and spectral maintainence over time with those HQI rated lamps compared to electronics. The reason, or a large part of it, aside from starting out with higher output and the correct color in the first place, has to do with operating frequency. There is information suggesting that the high operating frequencies of the electronics ballasts are responsible for harmonic resonance which can lead to shortened bulb life, shorter usuable life, lamp flicker, poor lumen maint., color shift and possible arc tube failure or rupture. In fact, many DE lamp manufacturers recommend AGAINST driving their DE lamps with electronic ballasts with operating frequency over 300Hz which is every electronic ballast marketed for our hobby, that I am aware of."

There are other facts about this posted by PaulErik about this. If I remember well they also mention that the main thing was PAR lost when using eballast, the bulb life may be longer (meaning it will take longer to burnt out) on eballasts but with M80 ballast the PAR is more consistent for 12-14 months.

This is for HQI lamps, most of DE lamps and a few SE except for cheap Chinese DE lamps (usually from eBay) which will work better on eballast.

[nightOwl]

ganjero,
Will any HQI ballast work or what is the best ballast to overdrive them?

Thanks

[ganjero]

If the lamp is a true HQI it will not be overdriven, it will be driven as it suppose to be. The best for the aquarium hobby are PFO HQI or SLS Bluvewave HQI

[rutz81]

<a
href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12961657#post12961657 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 7thheaven
Thanks, I missed it. I will read this article..
:thumbsup:

Thanks for great information everyone~!!

What is the proper ballast for 250 Radium? e-ballast? Magnetic?
HQI? How about 400w Radium?

I heared the 250and 400watt bulb are different.

And..Dear 250w Radium User~!!!
Could you tell me your tank photoperiod?

Thanks again~!!

I have my 250W Radiums on for around 8-9 hours daily on a 16" deep tank

[ReefWreak]

I do agree that you'll get the most out of a radium on a hqi ballast, but then should I not at all consider running the radiums on my eballast?

[rutz81]

Spectral Plot Comparison from Sanjay's Site (http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/spectraldata-line-2.php?Watts=250&Watts2=250&LampManuf=Radium&LampManuf2=Radium&Lamptype=Single+Ended&Lamptype2=Single+Ended&LampName=12&LampNameText=Radium+250W+20000K+SE+1&LampName2=12&LampName2Text=Radium+250W+20000K+SE+1&BallastName=6&BallastNameText=Icecap+250W+Electronic&BallastName2=8&BallastName2Text=PFO+250W+HQI+%28M80%29&Shielded=N&Shielded2=N&Minwavelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit)

It is almost 20 PPFD lower when running the e-ballast. There are definitely other 250W bulbs that will give you better results for less money, IMO

[ReefWreak]

Same awesome coloration? I'm open to suggestions! Just don't suggest the faux-blue of a reeflux 12k :p

What elsw do you suggest?

[ganjero]

Ive seen people with great success running sps tank and Radiums on icecap ballasts, but they also replace the bulb every 6-8 months which can become expensive.

[ReefWreak]

Whew. I would just leave it in there for a year or whatever. Would it be better to just run 20k XMs?

[spleify]

I run mine for 9 hours a day.
Is it true that the ARO ballasts are the same as the Ice Cap's, but with a different name?

Spleify

[hyperfocal]

I'm running Radiums on a 250W SLS dual Galaxy e-ballast. They run bluer than on a magnetic ballast, no doubt about it. They're still plenty bright on my 18" deep tank though -- maybe a bit too bright, I'm not sure yet. They seem a lot brighter than the Reeflux 12K bulbs they replaced, but that's harder to judge without having them side by side.

Hmmm, I still have one Reeflux 12K. Might be fun to see them side by side.

[ganjero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12962988#post12962988 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleify
I run mine for 9 hours a day.
Is it true that the ARO ballasts are the same as the Ice Cap's, but with a different name?

Spleify
It has the same specs and performs the same as the old style icecaps. The newer ballast perform a little better.

[FranktheTankTx]

I just got my 250w Radium running on a SLS Blue Wave 3 HQI... wow does it look nice! It's a little bluer than that of the pictures I've seen of the PFO HQI.

I love it!

[Nuuze]

I plan on trying 400w Radiums for my next bulb upgrade. I have a Sfiligoi Infinity XR4. Looking at the wiring/ballasts they are 220v HQI Euro spec. To work in the US they come with 110v-220v transformers. So am I looking at 6-8 months bulb life running a Euro bulb with Euro ballasts too?

[7thheaven]

Thanks...

250W Radium:
- magnetic ballast : OK
- E-ballast : OK
400W Radium:
- magnetic ballast : Only HQI
- E-ballast : OK

Am I correct?

How about coralvue ballast? I am thinking Lumenbright reflector

:)

[spleify]

Thanks ganjero.

[ganjero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963251#post12963251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 7thheaven
Thanks...

250W Radium:
- magnetic ballast : OK
- E-ballast : OK
400W Radium:
- magnetic ballast : Only HQI
- E-ballast : OK

Am I correct?

How about coralvue ballast? I am thinking Lumenbright reflector

:)
no,
250w radium:
eballast: OK but shorter life
magnetic: only HQI, best combination
400w Radium:
Eballast: OK but again shorter life
Magnetic: Pulse Start M135/M155 is the best option, no HQI.


Here you can see what's the best ballast for a few bulbs, and get some more info:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php

[spleify]

Here is another good article.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/jb/index.php

Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I have learned a lot.

[Nuuze]

I remember Sfiligoi telling me it's pulse start ballasts they use. But I wonder why the manual says HQI for both DE and SE descriptions...

Let me ask AO.

[7thheaven]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963410#post12963410 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero
no,
250w radium:
eballast: OK but shorter life
magnetic: only HQI, best combination
400w Radium:
Eballast: OK but again shorter life
Magnetic: Pulse Start M135/M155 is the best option, no HQI.


Here you can see what's the best ballast for a few bulbs, and get some more info:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php

Thanks ganjero

I saw the PremiumAquatics' this URL
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=20K-400WG&Category_Code=mh-400w

and it said


400W Radium Bulb

Mogule Base Metal Halide Bulb
20K Kelvin Color Temperature
Nice blue tint
Check ballast manufacture, does not run on all ballast. Recommend PFO hqi ballast or Eballast.
Made in Germany (Radium HRT brand)

Then this is not right. isn't this?

[spleify]

A while ago I down loaded this from Hello lights.



250W 20,000K - Radium


Detailed Description
Item Code: 22-HRI T250W-BLU
* Radium 20,000K - Crisp Blue Hue.
* HRI-T250W/BLUE/357
* Mogul Base.
* Made in Germany.
* Note: this bulb will not work on the Coralife Sun-System pendants. We do not carry any bulbs that will work with that item. Coralife has discontinued Sun-System pendants.
***FAQ:
Q. What ballast do you suggest for the 250W Radium 20,000K bulb?
A. The 250W Radium lamp is a European lamp for European ballast applications. The lamp was designed for a reactor ballast used for 220/240V input voltage and not for 120V operation in the U.S. We recommend the use of a 250W pulse start ballast (ANSI M138) or HQI (ANSI M80) for 250W Radium 20,000Ks because they provide a higher starting voltage and use an igniter to assure lamp starting. It is our experience that M58 ballasts can have problems with these bulbs flickering, not starting and/or being unable to keep the lamp fired (ie. it will go out after a while).
Q. What are the ANSI codes for Probe Start and Pulse Start ballasts?
A. Probe Start ANSI Codes for Metal Halide lamps: M102=150W, M57=175W, M58=250W, M59=400W, M47=1,000W.
Pulse Start ANSI Codes for Metal Halide lamps: M85=70W HQI, M81=150W HQI, M137=175W, M138=250W, M135=400W.
Q. What is the deal with "pulse start" or "probe start" ballasts?
A. "Probe start" ballasts are more common in the U.S., while "pulse start" ballasts are more common overseas. Most aquarium lighting hoods and pendants sold here in the US have PROBE start ballasts, as most MH lamps sold here are made for those ballasts. However, the short list of PULSE start style lamps commonly sold in the aquarium trade would be: 175W and 400W Ushio 10,000K, and both 250W and 400W Radium 20,000Ks. Those lamps will generally operate fine on pulse start ballasts, and we see little to no problems. We sell both pulse and probe start ballasts so you can get the correct one for your lighting needs.
HelloLights, your Aquarium Lighting Superstore!

[just dave]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963713#post12963713 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 7thheaven
Thanks ganjero

I saw the PremiumAquatics' this URL
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=20K-400WG&Category_Code=mh-400w

and it said



Then this is not right. isn't this?


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12880604#post12880604 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaulErik
One thing to note is the Radium 400-watt 20,000K lamp is actually spec’d at 360-watts. This is one reason for the lower PAR compared to other lamps. The only ballast Radium recommends for this lamp is a magnetic pulse start (ANSI M135/M155) ballast. This is the only ballast in North America that allows the lamp to operate at the designed wattage. Even electronic ballasts push the lamp past 360-watts. Magnetic ballast are designed to limit the current to the lamp while the lamp will set the operating voltage (the voltage depends on the lamp design spec). Electronic ballasts are designed differently. They are generally designed to output a specified wattage within a certain percent.

[hyperfocal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963410#post12963410 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ganjero

250w radium:
eballast: OK but shorter life
...
400w Radium:
Eballast: OK but again shorter life
...

Ganjero, can you point me at a reference for this?

[ganjero]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963713#post12963713 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 7thheaven
Thanks ganjero

I saw the PremiumAquatics' this URL
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=20K-400WG&Category_Code=mh-400w

and it said



Then this is not right. isn't this?
No its not right, there is not even a true HQI 400w ballast. The 400w "HQI" ( PFO or SLS) is the sonagro 430w High Pressure Sodium ballast. Many retailers have that mistake on the Radium 400w, recommending the wrong ballast.

[just dave]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12963785#post12963785 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleify
Q. What are the ANSI codes for Probe Start and Pulse Start ballasts?
A. Probe Start ANSI Codes for Metal Halide lamps: M102=150W, M57=175W, M58=250W, M59=400W, M47=1,000W.
Pulse Start ANSI Codes for Metal Halide lamps: M85=70W HQI, M81=150W HQI, M137=175W, M138=250W, M135=400W.



I believe the ANSI M102 is a pulse start ballast.

I made a little cheat sheet to keep it all straight.

Pulse start ballasts
M98 70w
M102 150w
M137/M152 175w
M138/M153 250w
M135/M155 400w
M141 1000w

HQI Pulse start ballasts
M85 70w
M81 150w
M80 250w
SON AGRO 430w HPS (Commonly sold as 400w HQI ballast)

Probe start ballasts
M107 150w
M57 175w
M58 250w
M59 400w
M47 1000w

ANSI ( American National Standards Institute)
PAR ( Photosynthetically Available Radiation )
PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density ) Wouldn't you like to use that in a sentence? Of course you'd have to follow it with "Beam me up Scotty."

PAR is measured as PPFD.

Just some things to try and keep my head straight when all these numbers start getting slung around.

[spleify]

Just dave, that is a great list!! Thanks for sharing that info.

Spleify

[just dave]

All the info was compiled from PaulErik, Sanjay Joshi , and the Venture lighting website.

[Nuuze]

Good news! My fixture can power 400w and 250w by moving a jumper in the fixture.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=12966976#post12966976

Now to figure out what type of magnetic ballasts they are. I'm sure the are pulse type.
M138/M153 250w?
M135/M155 400w?

[spleify]

Ok, well I put in the Hamilton 14K this morning and just tested it. It has been on for a couple of hours and should be plenty warmed up. The bulb is about 2 months old.
The par is almost exactly the same as the Radium. Around 430 or so at the water line. 250ish half way down and about 190-230 on the sand bed.
Are these good readings? What are other people getting?

Thanks

Spleify

[nightOwl]

spleify,
what brand of par meter are you using? We have one in our club and I am interested in how accurate this thing is going to be.


Thanks

[ReefWreak]

Spleify,

Thanks for the numbers! Interesting find. What is the age of the two bulbs? (like how long they've been run, approximately)

Interesting though is that your numbers are both more than 3 times those observed and recorded by sanjay. They give a comparison perspective of all of his numbers, but I guess you can adjust the rest of the numbers to your own setup with that ratio.

Now we need to find out the PAR numbers near sucessfully kept SPS corals so we can get ideas of how best to keep them.

It would be somewhat like what Eric Borneman said in his "Aquarium Corals" book, where he wishes we knew where on the reef each coral was found, so that we could approximate the same conditions in our tank (as far as lighting is concerned at least).

[spleify]

no problem guys. Th ePAR meter I am using is a Quantum Meter QMSS by Apogee
http://www.apogee-inst.com/pdf_files/QMSS.pdf

It is also for our local club.

[7thheaven]

Hi all~

I have 80cm(about 31inches) cube tank.

There are so many lumenarc-style pendant in US. I am thinking of Lumenbright

1. Can I use a Lumenbright only in my tank or more pendant is needed?

Thanks in advance.

[hatfielj]

For the original question posed:
I used a 400 watt Radium over my 20" tall tank with an ice-cap e-ballast and it was just way too much light. I bleached out a few of my corals before I even realized what was going on. Of course at the time I was using a lumenbright reflector that was way too close to the surface.
Now I moved the reflector up to where it should be and I switched to 250 watt icecap ballast and radium bulb and it seems to be a more appropriate light level for that depth of tank. Its not too blue looking at all either.

[cashman95]

I am running a 400 watt Radium in a Lumenbright powered by a Lumatek e-ballast, and its the best bulb I have ever seen. I have seen about 100 different setups in my 11 years of reefkeeping!

ARO ballast are just like the old style Icecap thats why sanjays website shows identical spectrums and ppfd. The new Icecap ballast is however a total different beast. Much better power out of it which usually creates a "less blue" look to "blue bulbs" I ran 250 watt Pheonix's off the new Icecap ballast and was real pleased with the color. Almost as powerful as the Pheonix being ran of a PFO HQI ballast. So you can see that people are not comparing apples to apples when they compare "brand names"


The Lumatek ballast is also a very powerful ballast giving the Radium 20k bulb a nice white with a hint of blue and some good actinic coloration. I am very pleased! I had a 400 watt XM 20k on this setup and the radium is way brighter and has a more natural blue/actinic look! I also tried the XM 20k on a M135 pulse start ballast. The Lumatek is a good bit brighter, but a little less blue than most XM 2ok's I have seen.

I hope this helps.......

Just try not to fall for the "one e-ballast is the same as all other e-ballast" Its just not true!

Oh and my tank is 20" deep!

[Canarygirl]

The Lumatek ballast is also a very powerful ballast giving the Radium 20k bulb a nice white with a hint of blue and some good actinic coloration. I am very pleased! I had a 400 watt XM 20k on this setup and the radium is way brighter and has a more natural blue/actinic look! I also tried the XM 20k on a M135 pulse start ballast. The Lumatek is a good bit brighter, but a little less blue than most XM 2ok's I have seen.

DId you also try the Radium 400 on the M135? Apparently that is the ballast recommened for use with this bulb (in the USA). I assume that the Radium on the Lumatek will have a short life due to being overdriven. I'm trying to decide what ballast to use for a Radium 400...thinking about Galaxy eballast which is supposed to be a good fit for the Radium. Problem is, if it works well with Radium it probably underdrives any other bulb (like an XM 20K or Helios). Hmmmm :confused: