How to go about sumps and overflows?

[Sitarangi]

I have a 29g long nano tank with a hang-on seaclone 150 skimmer and penguin 70 BW filter. I keep this tank in my room, so it doesn't really matter that I have all that nonsense hanging off the back. Now that i'm leaving for college, my parents and I decided to move the tank into my living room. I opted that they replace my handbuilt ramshackle tank with a RSM, but they didn't go for it :lol:

Im wondering whats the best way to create a fuge to stick underneath just to get all those excess cords out of sight as well as the skimmer and heater. Its an all glass, well established tank so drilling is out of the question. I have a rectangular 15g glass tank that'll fit perfectly underneath our stand... so my questions are:

- Whats the best way to get water into the sump from the DT? Is there a non-evasive overflow box that'll fit right on the back?

- Return Pump.... whats one thats good for a smaller tank like mine?

- How do I do this? I have no experience with any form of sump or fuge tank so please anything you got will help...

[Kannin]

U-tube overflow boxes are about 50 bucks. You only need to move about 3 to 400 gph. Look into the submersible Rio Hyper-Flow 12 for a return pump. If it is more than 400 gph at 4 ft head... see if the have a smaller one.

Just run a vinyl drain tube from the overflow box into the sump with a filter sock at the end. At the other end of the sump (hopefully divided from the first section) place the return pump with a ball valve on the exit and more vinyl tubing going back up to the display with a two 90 degree pvc elbows going into the tank. If you want to get fancy... put some lock line on it and make sure to drill a 1/16 inch hole just a 1/2 inch below the water line for a syphon break.

[theredben]

Unless you have a pump rated for pressure (doubtful) it is best to put the ball valve on the intake side of the pump if possible. Either that or you put a tee on the exit side of the pump and put some of the pressure back into the sump. It will extend your pump's life a little bit.

hope this crappy diagram helps
^
^
to display tank
||
||
||
ball valve
||
tee === ball valve===back into sump>>
||
||
||
pump

[kgross]

Never put a valve on the intake of a pump to control the flow through the pump. It can cause cavitation which will damage the pump and make lots of noise. You can safely install a valve on the output of the pump to limit the flow without any problems.

Kim

[Sitarangi]

Just to confirm, I should go....?

Output -> tee -> ball valve -> DT
I
V
ball valve -> sump


Yea I agree about the intake too, I thought I could do it to make one of my powerheads more versatile but it last about 2 weeks before breaking down

[kgross]

Personally I don't think you need the T and a second output into you sump. It will just use more electricity with no benefit. I would just do pump output, valve, display tank. But many people who claim to know more will tell you to put the T in with a drain back to the sump to keep you from overworking your pump. Even though the pump will work harder with the open line allowing more water to flow back to the sump rather than just putting more pressure on the pump.

Kim


Kim