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View Full Version : Tank archaeology: equipment I've used and am glad not to use again...


Sk8r
08/30/2008, 07:45 AM
I've been reefing a loooong time. I've seen a lot of bright ideas come and go. I LIKE the way things are now. Here's my list of things I've used and am really glad not to have now.

1. undergravel filter. Talk about a nitrate factory!
2. biowheel filter........it ran. The tank was an algae farm, but things lived.
3. wet dry.........I had a 50 g sump under a 100g tank, which worked well for buttons, mushrooms, but! Nitrates...nitrates. A lot of things I keep now would not live a week in that tank.
4. fluidized sand filter....the Worst. It exploded fine sand all through my sump. And never worked.
5. cannister filter: I had rather walk over hot coals than deal with a cannister....either you clean them obsessively, constantly, or you have another nitrate factory. And I hated cleaning them out. I hated having to buy media for them. I hated most finding out my flow had gone bye-bye because of a clog. Granted I never used a really high-end one, but never again.
6. spray bar.......sort of like having a skimmer IN your tank: it created a gunky mess, because in those days we didn't have a skimmer to take out the stuff.
7. sponges. See wet-dry. Nitrates. We had lots of sponges, bioballs, drip trays. Bad stuff.
8. exterior pump in the living room....that had some scary moments. We used a Little Giant, and the only thing between that water and my carpet was a hose clamp and a factory-installed bulkhead connector and Little Giant's engineering. And noisy? You think a modern downflow is noisy? Try one of those pumps, a spray bar, and three drip trays stacked 3 deep with a 5 inch fall to each. But having that huge sump was cool.
9. crushed coral substrate. Nitrate factory. We went nutz with nitrates in that last tank. And that substrate had to be cleaned often. You stirred it up and got a diatom filter to yank the crud out before it killed your tank. Fortunately a diatom filter can do that: but if you've just stirred it up and then can't get the darned filter going, there's a moment of panic for you....
10. starting up with ALL base rock and a cup of lfs sand. That took a while...but if you're starting on the cheap, yep, it can be done. Takes about an 8 week cycle.
11. no high-end lights. I sure lusted after them...but they were hugely expensive. I couldnt believe the price had come that far down when I set up this time.


Things we used then that ought to be more used now:
1. polyfilter. We used to LIVE by polyfilter. Mine went all sorts of weird colors, indicating that without them my tank would have been in lots of trouble. I had two rocks in there that was leaching stuff into the water---a rock inappropriate for a reef---but I couldn't figure WHICH rock it was. Try that for fun! ;) Be sure your base rock is reef-appropriate. Limestone is good. Oh, how did I know it was at least 2 rocks? Because I found out one former speciman rock from the Caribbean was solidified petroleum/tar... from a tanker spill, I suppose.
2. diatom filter. Talk about the machine that can save your bacon in a water quality emergency. Costs about 100.00 and can't be used for a filter (too strong) all the time. You know if your water is full-up with dust and gunk it clogs coral pores and fishy gills, like trying to breathe in a sandstorm...and if biochemically 'soured' it loses its oxygen carrying capacity. A diatom filter can yank any of that stuff very ike watching speeded up action. It will yank anything larger than a micron, swimming ich parasites, ---unfortunately copepods, etc---can cure 'green water' instantly. Futzy to use, learning curve involved, but still a very good piece of equipment to have, especially if you have a megatank or a kid who's at the 'help you' stage.

What do I use now? Equipment list is in my sig: EV120 is the skimmer; Iwaki is the return pump. Kalk is the alk/calcium supplement system.

seapug
08/30/2008, 11:27 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13257745#post13257745 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
Because I found out one former speciman rock from the Caribbean was solidified petroleum/tar... from a tanker spill, I suppose.



:eek1: :eek2:

ILoveReefer
08/30/2008, 11:46 AM
Diatom filter's are the best. I was wondering why nobody seems to use them anymore. Back in my freshwater days I'd use it an hour a week and the water would come out super clean. I still have the diatom filter and was curious as to how well it would work in a reef system?

CrazyCohiba
08/30/2008, 12:43 PM
OMG. I have 40 lbs. of crushed coral in my tank, that is already setup and topped with 60 lbs of live rock.... What do i do now?

seapug
08/30/2008, 01:05 PM
If your tank is new, remove all the rock and scoop out the crushed coral then put in some real sand.

And don't take any more advice from the person who recommended crushed coral.

Sk8r
08/30/2008, 01:31 PM
Ow! Re the crushed coral, you can use your regular water changes to slowly siphon it out on one side of your tank, while introducing very, very washed new aragonite sand to replace it. It's a slow process, but it will work. Wash your new sand in your discard tank water, and it will benefit from bacteria. Gradually, over weeks, migrate your operation across the tank. If there's CC under your live rock, don't worry: it will probably compact and become part of the live rock as if it were limestone before 2 years are up. CC is not the devil: it is, in the long run, a pain, because all those little pockets hold detritus, and it just gets worse. Mine was all coquina shells, and held detritus like 10,000 little cups.

SO don't panic. Just proceed slowly and deliberately to replace your CC in sections, not to disturb your sandbed too much, and if you turn out to have some Cc mixed in with the aragonite sand, no big deal.

Sk8r
08/30/2008, 01:37 PM
re diatom filters: I highly recommend people with big tanks and big fish have one in house at all times. If your water goes south, you can't slap 2 10-pound tangs or angels into a quarantine tank: you just have to sweat it, cross fingers, and hope you can clear the water before your beloved fish can't take it anymore. If you have a diatom filter in the cabinet, you just charge it with DE (chalky powder) and fire it up and let it work. A 100 gallon tank goes from milky to crystal clear in about an hour, and is giving significant relief to the fish almost immediately. They're a bit of overkill for a nano---but if you have a 2 year old or frequent parties and a big tank, especially, they can be a lifesaver.

Sk8r
08/30/2008, 01:38 PM
seapug, yeah, the petroleum 'rock' nearly blew me away! THank goodness I was habitually running full sheets of polypad in those days!

CrazyCohiba
08/30/2008, 02:02 PM
Thanks Sk8r, I guess I know what i'll be doing this Labor day weekend

CrazyCohiba
09/04/2008, 07:30 PM
OK removed all of the live rocks and Placed the fishes in a spare tank, hope they don't get shocked.

after the cleaning of this tank I am putting together some info for a custom tank when we move into our new home.( a year from now)
Can you give me your opinions on this rough draft?
Please let me know if I have got all the right flows in order. Thank you all.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=b0ff47a0c103bdb95ed6266eca03e7ac

ILoveReefer
09/04/2008, 08:12 PM
What program did you use to draw this setup. I'm not able to view the downloaded file just the small picture on google.

ILoveReefer
09/04/2008, 08:14 PM
Never mind "google sketchUp" I never heard of it before but I think I found a new program to play with.

ILoveReefer
09/04/2008, 09:24 PM
The design looks pretty good.
I would however change the 2 separate pump return lines, they can be joined together near the sump utilizing a single larger pump freeing up some room. Also you have 2 compartments in chamber A that I would eliminate. The compartment for charcoal sounds like a good idea but it looks like it would be difficult to maintain and change the carbon frequently. The LR compartment in chamber A, I would also eliminate. Running the protien skimmer right next to the live rock would elimanate some of the benifits of the LR. Bacteria in the LR would be fine but the pod population has a the risk of being filtered out by the skimmer.
Other than that I think it looks pretty good.

RondaGP
09/04/2008, 10:54 PM
I think I've had almost everything on your list at one time too but I can raise you a skilter.

Our first tank was a 55g with crushed coral, underground filter, two tiny pieces of live rock, horrible lights that made my tank always look jaundice, and a lovely skilter. And to think I felt cool because my tank had a protien skimmer. ...good times, good times.


And when we changed the set up to sand, a backpack skimmer, and plumbed a sump, we our nitrates went from usually testing at 100 (maybe higher, the vial always seemed max out with that bright red color that the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test turned) and at best we could get it down to 50 with aggressive water changes all week, to testing at 0 every single time for years. And with a much larger bio load!

awholelota
09/05/2008, 08:25 AM
i had a fluidized sand filter. i thought it was the coolest thing ever when it first came out. but it never work properly and it was always spitting out sand into my display.

JEFFR259
09/05/2008, 09:16 AM
Hahaahaha---

SKILTER

Certainly had one of those pieces of crap!!!

LOL!!!

CrazyCohiba
09/05/2008, 09:25 AM
Sorry for the delayed reply. Yes its a free program from Google, Google sketch up. It works great and can be shared with anyone.
Ok, Where do you think I should place the Skimmer? In chamber B with the return water.
The reason for the split chambers in Chamber A was to some research off of links in these threads. But I am open to better ideas. I have plenty of time before this tank goes into construction. I am literally building it into our new home in February As A partition with three sides of Display. The tank is 108 Cubic Feet(have not yet converted into gallons). The reason for the two pump return also was an idea i got from threads, stating that smaller pump are less noisy. Is that true? Although even with the two pumps they are still a decent size due to the amount of return needed to support that many gallons.
All opinions are deeply appreciated. Please post. as I want to do as much homework as needed..
Thank you all.

CrazyCohiba
09/05/2008, 10:39 AM
This was before I removed the CC. will post more images later..
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/5408/imgp1201ir2.jpg
PS: date is wrong at the bottom of pic....

ILoveReefer
09/05/2008, 08:45 PM
Sorry for the delay I work 2nd shift. Thats a nice looking tank.
I would still place the skimmer in chamber A. Just use chamber A as a separate area for your components "skimmer, heater, and possible future add-ons like a Calcium reactor, auto top off, etc...". I think the overall design is great. I really like the three chamber sump, it has a lot of benefits to it.
On the main page of RC, lower left hand side, theres calculators there to help you figure out tank volume and other helpful tools you may be interested in.

CrazyCohiba
09/06/2008, 11:13 AM
I was wondering, If this design calls for an Island tank I should probably have the pipes going in and out from the bottom of tank. Correct?
And if so should the returns be piped to the top of the tank and the overflows also? I'm curious. But if they are next to eachother the flow would cycle incorrect. Any ideas?

ILoveReefer
09/06/2008, 05:09 PM
By island tank do you mean viewable from all for sides? If thats the case then yes the pipes would ideally come through the bottom of the tank. The overflow and returns can be located next to each other. You'll just have to use loc-line or a comparable product to direct the flow away from the overflow pipes.

CrazyCohiba
09/08/2008, 12:33 PM
Yes viewable from all sides.
Thanks I'll do some research on that.