18g wire, solid-core

[rfd515]

Anyone know where to buy this online? Lowe's doesn't appear to carry it and I need quite a few feet to wire up 3 sets of T5 retros.

Thanks,
-Bob

[Rhodan]

Try Radio Shack....

[rfd515]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13642309#post13642309 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rhodan
Try Radio Shack....

Problem is I'd probably need a 2nd mortgage to buy it from there.

[cdness]

www.Digi-Key.com ... They have almost anything electronic based... :)

[rfd515]

Actually it's not as expensive as I thought, I'll probably just get it from there.

Thanks.

[theatrus]

Digikey, McMaster, etc.

[MeuserReef]

Just go to Lowes / Home Depot and use 14 gauge solid wire. Might be cheaper in the long run if you are going to have to pay shipping from somewhere online.

Just a thought.

[BeanAnimal]

the #18 hookup wire from Rat Shack is not rated at anywhere near the voltage rating you need... for that matter I don't think they even bother putting a rating on it these days for liability sake.

[BeanAnimal]

As others have mentioned.. the #14 THHN wire from HD would be just fine to use.

[fodupos]

if you don't care about solid core an automotive store would carry it... i would just solder and heat shrink it if you are worried about moister... and is this to wire the end caps or what

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13645706#post13645706 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fodupos
if you don't care about solid core an automotive store would carry it... i would just solder and heat shrink it if you are worried about moister... and is this to wire the end caps or what

Most (none?) of that wire will not have the proper voltage rating either :)

[ihavtats29]

#18 solid is thermostat wire and will not hold for your needs it is most commonly used as lowvoltage wire , 32 vac and under id use a #14 or #12

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13646591#post13646591 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ihavtats29
#18 solid is thermostat wire and will not hold for your needs it is most commonly used as lowvoltage wire , 32 vac and under id use a #14 or #12

Wire size (gauge) dictates Ampacity
Wire insulation dictates Voltage

The NEC allows for
#18 - 6 Amps
#16 - 8 Amps
#14 - 15 Amps
#12 - 20 Amps
#10 - 30 Amps
#8 - 55 Amps
#6 - 75 Amps
#4 - 95 Amps
#3 - 110 Amps
#2 - 130 Amps
#1 -150 Amps
#1/0 -170 Amps
#2/0 -195 Amps
#3/0 -225 Amps
#4/0 -260 Amps
Etc..

Thre is no problem using #18 THHN, TFN, etc. wire for T5 Lamp to ballast connection, as long as the voltage rating of the wire is sufficient.

#16 and #18 (solid and stranded) wire is available in THHN, TFW, TFN, Etc. 300V or THHN 600V ratings (Not to mention specialty products that can handle thousands of volts).

It is very common for internal wiring in appliances and equipment, cords, etc to be #16 or #18. The ballast to bulb wires in a light fixture are a prime example :)

[therealfatman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13647678#post13647678 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Wire size (gauge) dictates Ampacity
Wire insulation dictates Voltage

The NEC allows for
#18 - 6 Amps
#16 - 8 Amps
#14 - 15 Amps
#12 - 20 Amps
#10 - 30 Amps
#8 - 55 Amps
#6 - 75 Amps
#4 - 95 Amps
#3 - 110 Amps
#2 - 130 Amps
#1 -150 Amps
#1/0 -170 Amps
#2/0 -195 Amps
#3/0 -225 Amps
#4/0 -260 Amps
Etc..

Thre is no problem using #18 THHN, TFN, etc. wire for T5 Lamp to ballast connection, as long as the voltage rating of the wire is sufficient.

#16 and #18 (solid and stranded) wire is available in THHN, TFW, TFN, Etc. 300V or THHN 600V ratings (Not to mention specialty products that can handle thousands of volts).

It is very common for internal wiring in appliances and equipment, cords, etc to be #16 or #18. The ballast to bulb wires in a light fixture are a prime example :)

IMO the issue here is wheter there is excessive heat involved in the lighting fixture as high temperature air will not cool the wiring adequately and could cause heat build up and therefore failure of the wires insulation.

A wires carrying capacity for most wiring purposes by code standards as as they apply here is chiefly the state at which the insulation fails (melts or burns), so this is actually a combination of the resistance of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation. There are high temperature wire insulations but they are seldom needed or used. Luckily little high heat situations are dealt an issue for DIY people or home owners.

Sadly most wiring insulation of most wire typically seen for sell is more a factor of its pulling capacity/ease through conduit rather than its thermal capacity/tolerance.

There have been some cases of failures of wiring insulation in Chinese manafactured T5 lighting fixtures. But the Chinese manafacturers are well known for not following the letter of the law and underbuilding systems and components. The Chinese lights are an example showing though that heat is an issue in a T5 lighting fixture though not much as it is in a halide lighting fisture and adquately shows that some regard must be made to the wiring used. Most reports have shown their wire gauges to be adequate anfd their insulation and fixture ventilation to e inadequate in the fixture fire cases.

Therefore the insulation type is chiefly the issue in this situtation if using wiring of the proper gauge.

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13648658#post13648658 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by therealfatman
IMO the issue here is wheter there is excessive heat involved in the lighting fixture as high temperature air will not cool the wiring adequately and could cause heat build up and therefore failure of the wires insulation. In addition to a voltage rating, each type of wire has a temperature rating. If the temperature rating and voltage rating are followed, then the wire can safey conduct the rated current.

There have been some cases of lighting fixture failures of wiring in Chinese manafactured T5 lighting fixtures. But the Chinese manafacturers are well known for not following the letter of the law and underbuilding systems and components. Their lights are an example showing though that heat is an issue in a T5 lighting fixture though not much as it is in a halide lighting fisture. Yes, many imported products are stamped with UL aproval and/or other markings that are 100% fake. It is a huge problem.

[Lost in Tanks]

Personally I use the Irrigation wire.. it usually has 2-3 pair in it and works fine at least every time I have used it.

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13651160#post13651160 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lost in Tanks
Personally I use the Irrigation wire.. it usually has 2-3 pair in it and works fine at least every time I have used it.

If it is not rated at the proper voltage (at least 300V, 600V or more for some ballasts) then it IS NOT suitable.

[Dakota Reef]

Reefgeek online carries it. Just call and order it in the length you need. I wasted two weeks looking for it locally.

[38bill]

I just built an 8 bulb canopy with 4 remote ballasts for my new 215 and went through the same thing. As I remember the Radio Shack wire was only rated for 300 V and automotive wire is only rated for 50V. I ended up ordering on-line from Weico Wire out of Edgewood, NY. I bought their 600V rated 18ga. The price was great but you have to buy it in 100 foot minimums. I bought three colors so that was 300' total but with my setup I used every bit of it. Even if you don't buy from them their web site is good for reference.

PS:Your life and home is worth the little extra that the correct wire costs.

[stiffljp]

If you want the easy route, Icecap wiring harnesses use the wire your looking for

[kaptken]

You know, I spent a couple years on this same snipe hunt for 18 awg 600V solid core wire and ran into the same dead ends. Building supply stores dont carry it because i guess its not in any building wiring code. It's made for proprietary electronic manufacturers. Near as i can tell all ballast makers use it for the leads on their florescent ballasts. 16 awg 600v solid strand building wire works fine but is stiff and hard to lay and work around hinged hood lids. You can use the 600v 16 or 18 awg stranded wire from HD or Lowes but for push in PC and T5, T8 and VHO endcaps you need to twist and tin the wire ends to stiffen them up to push into the endcap and not be shredded from the little brass clip inside the cap.

I have also used spools of 18awg stranded marine grade 600v wire i bought at either HD or a boat store?. not the low voltage DC stuff. you have to look for the right guage/voltage printed on the insulation. this works real nice for layout and bundling. soft and flexible but again i had to twist and tin the ends. It just takes a second to do that.

But now, there is a place to buy the real McCoy wire. Hellolights sells it in 33 foot bundles. I guess they got tired of fielding calls from guys like me asking where to buy the wire specified on every ballast. and now they sell it.
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1470
they are the only one i know of selling it to the public.
They also include 60 feet of it in their 2 lamp VHO DIY kit.

I hope this helps.