Out of all the glass questions I haven't.....

[2_zoa]

I haven't seen any body ask about being able to cut their tanks with a diamond Jig saw blade or a grinder blade. So that is the question.....

I want to cut a weir in my 20L and do an external overflow and it would be a lot easier to cut it with a jig saw or a grinder with a diamond blade. Does anyone think this is possible?

[hellssephiroth]

you could always try it on a scrap piece of glass? sorry i cant be of more help than that lol i dont trust myself enough to do my own drilling/cutting

[Scott M]

I've often wondered the same thing, I have also found myself very tempted to put a piece of scrap glass on my wet-saw (used for cutting tile) and see if it will do the trick. Does anyone know if that will work?

[billdogg]

the wetsaw would probably work just fine, but kinda hard to fit a tank in it??? LOL I would not use a jigsaw - the vibration from the saw would almost certainly cause the tank to break

[amehel0]

ok just a few things

you can grind it but you need glass angle grinders which are low vibration and a cetain rpm.
You will most likely crack it even with a specific grinder.
Why not drill a hole and have that go into the overflow? thats what i did in my tank and i get awesome surface skimming.

[redfishsc]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13704991#post13704991 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Scott M
I've often wondered the same thing, I have also found myself very tempted to put a piece of scrap glass on my wet-saw (used for cutting tile) and see if it will do the trick. Does anyone know if that will work?

+1.

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools nearby, a cheap(er) wet tile saw can be had for a reasonable price, especially if you can find one of those 30-40% off coupons.


BTW this will likely only work with non-tempered glass, and if this is a custom build, I'd use MINIMUM 1/4" thick glass, perhaps even thicker. Or maybe for the overflow area, glue a square piece of glass in the place you are putting the overflow so that the overflow ribs are double-thickness. Less break-prone that way.

[Zoos]

Even if you did it, the edges wouldn't be clean. Why not use a regular glass cutter?

[2_zoa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13705931#post13705931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zoos
Even if you did it, the edges wouldn't be clean. Why not use a regular glass cutter?



You think if I drill two holes, one on each end to make the upward cut then I could score and snap out the center?

[2_zoa]

Okay,

thanks to all that have replied. It sound like there are definitely a few options here. I guess it depends on how crazy I want to get. I tried out the grinder idea on a bottle to see if I would be able to cut it, and it did very easy, tho I didn't use any water to keep it cool, I did crack it. I just barley had to touch the glass and it cut with ease just like hot butter. I wonder how much a glass grinder would be? I think I will look into this. That is unless anybody else thinks I can just score and snap out the center after drilling out the ends like a quarter of a circle.


something like this (_________________)

[Zoos]

That could work, but it might not look as need as you want it too, how thick is this glass?

[spleify]

We did it to a buddy's tank, we used a rotozip tile bit.


http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2067.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2068.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2069.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2070.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2072.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2073.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2074.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2075.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/spleify/IMG_2076.jpg

[2_zoa]

That is the tank I saw that gave me the idea.(I was and am still new to the hobby) I measured the tank and it is .194 thick so say 3/16". Is it harder to score and snap thicker or thinner glass? I went and bought some that is .128 so 1/8" and I have been practicing the process. I have even managed to get the overflow cut out so all I have to do now is silicone it together.:) I know that is backwards way of going about this cause if I break the tank then it will be for nothing. It is very interesting how such a small cut in the glass can cause it to fracture along that point, it's pretty cool.

Does anyone know if it more difficult to score and snap thicker or thinner glass?

[spleify]

I'm gonna guess it's harder to snap thicker glass, but have no direct experience with this metod.

[2_zoa]

Okay here it is......

http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/MVC-045F.jpg


http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/MVC-043F.jpg


What do you think. That piece on the right that looks like a chip is silicone. I will now go through and remove the silicone so I can make a new top brace.:)

[wwace]

ok I am no glass expert but I have been in the tile business for over 30 years, you can cut glass with a tile saw or grinder but you do not get clean edges. there is alot of chipping also. An old thin worn down blade would work best but it has to be a perfect blade with no wobble or out of round. I just built a 55 and am putting together a 112 this week and want to do the same thing with the external overflow on the 112. I will cut the slots down first with a dremel, then score the glass and "snap" the piece out. I am lucky as I have lots of diamond tools blades polishers etc so even if I screw up i can grind or fix it somehow.

[2_zoa]

wwace.

you are right from my experiences with the tile bits they cause a lot of chip out. on this one I cut a hole in the corners with a 1 1/4" diamond hole saw and then scored and snapped out the center section. now, the center section did not come out the way i wanted it to. i am not the best at the whole scoring and snapping process so whenever i tried to snap out a thin strip i could not get it to go all the way across. i am an instant gratification kinda person so i went for it anyway on the tank. in the end it all worked out but it was not smooth sailing by any means. i know it is my lack of knowledge working with glass and someone who is old school could have snapped it right out.

[abr6]

hey spliefy, how smooth are the edges? is it true that it creates chipping as stated by 2_zoa?

[spleify]

I had no chipping. I think the key is going slow. I also took a piece of 180 grit sand paper to soften the edges a little.

HTH

Spleify

[2_zoa]

Sorry, sorry, sorry, I should be more specific. I have no experience with the tile bit used by spleify, I used a tile hole saw and cut 2 in holes in the back of my 75 and the chip out was horrendous in my opinion. In reality it probably wasn't that bad except on the last hole where I got happy and went through to quick. Oops my fault. I haven't done anything else with that tank yet but I do plan on re drilling the holes to smooth them up. It did leave more chip out than with the diamond bits. Again for holes I haven't cut any lines in glass.

I say that the chips were bad cause if you think about it when you score glass it is just the smallest of imperfection that you are creating to control the break. So I think that any chips are bad. I am being way to critical here in reality but that is the way my mind thinks.

How long did it take you to cut that out spleify?

Also do you wish you had cut it lower?

[spleify]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13774325#post13774325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2_zoa

How long did it take you to cut that out spleify?

Also do you wish you had cut it lower?


It didn't take that long, maybe 10-15 minutes.

This is a buddys tank, that we did this to, and he said yes he would like it lower if we did it again. But on he flip side of that, there is plenty good enough flow over it.

[2_zoa]

Hum, that makes me think a little. How big was the tank cause I have way more time invested in my little adventure.:)

[spleify]

It's a 58 gal Oceanic. We cut it 1/2", I think it it a pretty good height, but you may want to cut it a LITTLE more. As long as you don't have a really over sized return pump(which you don't need anyway) I personally think you will be fine.

HTH

Spleify

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Nice work 2_Zoa :)

[wrxreefer823]

Another idea would be to instead of cutting a straight line across the whole rear of the tank, is to drill small holes, say 1/4 inch, evenly spaced apart(say about 1/4" to 3/8" apart at the same level as your desired water lever for it to flow into...or even small slits across the top of the tank, same size and spacing as my holes idea... Just an idea though. I thought it would look a bit neater than taking off almost the width of the tank, and you might have a bit more control of your water flow that way as well. If you want I could maybe draw something up on for ya.

[2_zoa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13776139#post13776139 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
Nice work 2_Zoa :)


Thank you.

[2_zoa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13779248#post13779248 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wrxreefer823
Another idea would be to instead of cutting a straight line across the whole rear of the tank, is to drill small holes, say 1/4 inch, evenly spaced apart(say about 1/4" to 3/8" apart at the same level as your desired water lever for it to flow into...or even small slits across the top of the tank, same size and spacing as my holes idea... Just an idea though. I thought it would look a bit neater than taking off almost the width of the tank, and you might have a bit more control of your water flow that way as well. If you want I could maybe draw something up on for ya.

I don't know much about glass stresses and the breaking point of it but, I think that small holes would impart a lot of stress or the potential for breakage with the small webbing in between them. Maybe someone else has another opinion they would like to share on this.

[2_zoa]

[QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13775090#post13775090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleify
[B]It's a 58 gal Oceanic. We cut it 1/2", I think it it a pretty good height, but you may want to cut it a LITTLE more. As long as you don't have a really over sized return pump(which you don't need anyway) I personally think you will be fine.

I agree with not needing an over sized return pump but given the size of this tank and the fact that I hate seeing equipment, I have a larger pump on this one to alleviate any further need for power heads. At least that is the plan but things don't always turn out the way you intend.:rollface:

[Rocketboy52]

What do you think about instead of cutting a notch out, you use a slit? That way with a Eurobraced, or top braced tank you would still have some structure to the upper rim of the tank? I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this similar overflow concept on my new 90gal tank. It is a 36x24x24 and I plan to put the overflow on one of the 24" sides.

[2_zoa]

I had given some thought to that idea as I wanted to keep the water level high in the display to avoid seeing the water line. But I then realized that the way I am going to redo the top bracing I am going to see the water line anyway. I was also concerned that the slot idea would create a suction draining the tank faster then the return pump could get it back. So I would have a surging effect and probably a lot of noise. I suppose you have a much better chance of being able to cut a slot as your tank is much longer so your weir wont be as deep depending on how much flow you plan on.

I guess it would matter what you want to see and how the top will be finished. On mine I am in the process of cutting out the top piece that will brace the top. I just am not sure how to go about cutting it out yet.

I have the overflow part done I can post a pic if you would like.

[thecoralreefer]

I like it good job man!!!!

[thecoralreefer]

even titanium bends past memory !!!

[2_zoa]

That it does, as do I after a few.:)

Thank you for the complement.

[Rocketboy52]

I'd love to see a picture of your overflow as well as your brace once you finish the project.

[2_zoa]

Okay here are a couple

This is also my version of BeanAnimal's Overflow

http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/PICT0668.jpg

http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/PICT0670.jpg


And the back

http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo300/pentair/PICT0671.jpg


What do you think?

Oh and I think I am supposed to apologize for the photos being crappy.

[asmodeus]

looks great man great job on the drilling and the cutting

[2_zoa]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13846568#post13846568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asmodeus
looks great man great job on the drilling and the cutting

Thank you.


Rocketboy52 check this out.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=444094

[Rocketboy52]

Looks sweet! If mine turn out that nice and clean I would be very satisfied with myself! Are you planning on painting or coloring the back pane at all, or simply let the coraline do its thing over time?

Are you still planning on bracing the rear pane or do you think the glass overflow stiffens it up enough that its not needed?

I actually just found that thread after reading this one a few hours ago. Thanks for the link!

[Rocketboy52]

Also, what is a "BeanAnimal's" over flow? Is there a thread on this type of overflow?

[Rocketboy52]

What is your dimension from the back of the tank to the back of the overflow? 3" is my guess? Also where did you buy your PVC fittings?

[2_zoa]

Thank you for the kind words,

BeanAnimal's thread.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1310585

Yes I plan on covering the entire back with black contact paper so when I look from the side or walk by the tank the back doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. I also plan to do a foam rock wall across the back to hide everything from the viewing side. I have to cut in my return bulkheads as well and then I will paint my return plumbing with Krylon Fusion Paint (Black).

I have cut out corner braces to help support the back panel at the top. From the stress Analysis we did at work on my 75G it showed the most stress at the top corners. I think the rest of the panel will be just fine, with the overflow on there it should act as a strong back. I also cut a 1" or a 1 1/4" (I can't remember) strip for the front panel, it goes all the way across the front. The front brace is already on the tank you can see it in one of the pics. The three brace pieces are going to be siliconed to the inside flush with the top. The euro brace I am working on will then go on top of the tank and those corner and front pieces will also attach to the top euro brace. I hope that makes sense.

It is an extremely bulky overflow for this tank. I am okay with that which is a good thing as I have to look at it. I did not originally plan on it being so large. I wanted to do 1/2" plumbing but decided that 1" would be better.(After talking with Bean):) I plan on running all of my flow through the return pump. I said I plan on it, things don't always turn out the way we think. I plan on running about 800GPH through it. The dimensions are 23 1/2"L x 7"T x 4"D I think the dimension you were directly after is 4".

The pipe fittings came from the local hardware store.(Kinda mom and pop) I could not find the bulk heads at my different locations of Lowes or Home Depot. I suppose I could have got them online but I like to keep my money local any time I can. I believe Glass Holes sells the same bulkheads I got.

I hope this helps you out. If I manage to get the top cut without breaking it I will PM you the pic.

By the way the holes in the overflow......I paid to have them drilled I think they drilled on the wrong side of the line. Oh well it doesn't hurt the function of the piece, just looks a little funny. I had them drilled cause I drilled my 75 and used the wrong bit. OOPS stupid me. Well after attaining the right bits I will never pay to have it done again. As you see I am drilling and cutting my own glass.:)

[Rocketboy52]

You mean cutting the glass using the rotozip right? I'm heading to Home Depot tommorrow after work to see if I can get my hands on one.

[2_zoa]

I use a dremel, the glass hole saws, and the blank sheets, I score and snap.