diatom longevity

[Orvis]

I have a 55 gallon cycling with approximately 35lbs. of live rock. About three weeks into the cycle I noticed the start of the brown diatoms on everything in the tank. How long on average does this last before the corollines take over? Tank is now 6 weeks old. A ten gallon water change was performed at five weeks.

Ammonia...0ppm, Nitrite...0ppm, Nitrates..?
Water temp. 78 degrees
Lighting period...8 hrs.
Lighting type...PC 65w actinic blue(2), 65w daylight(2)
Filtration...live rock and skimmer
Substrate...aragonite sand

About one third of the live rock had coralline on it.

No inhabitants yet.

Should I begin adding a clean-up crew?

[Orvis]

Re: Forgot to mention that I have a 3100 Rio at one end and a 2100 Rio at the opposite end for circulation.

[tmcgaughey]

Are you using RO water?

Diatoms stay alive due to silicates that they use to build thier cell walls with - silicates are in tap water usually.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13732231#post13732231 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tmcgaughey
Are you using RO water?

Diatoms stay alive due to silicates that they use to build thier cell walls with - silicates are in tap water usually.

I use well water that is put through a water softener system.

[kevin2000]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13732483#post13732483 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Orvis
I use well water that is put through a water softener system.

Suggest you purchase an RO/DI filtering system. Well water (softened or not) is generally considered unsuitable for for reef tanks and often problamatic for even FO tanks.

[tmcgaughey]

How true

well water usually has TONS of hard metals and other crap that is ok for you but trouble for your tank

fact of the matter: silicates HAVE to be coming from somewhere to feed your diatoms

[crvz]

it will last as long as you have a silicate source. new tanks will see the bloom due to anything imported upon initial tank setup (like new plastics, glass, etc.), but if you're not using good source water they could last indefinitely.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13732705#post13732705 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tmcgaughey
How true

well water usually has TONS of hard metals and other crap that is ok for you but trouble for your tank

fact of the matter: silicates HAVE to be coming from somewhere to feed your diatoms

I have a pre-filter on my supply line going to the water softener but I guess the filter combined with the softener isn't enough to remove the silicates, right?

Would larger water changes do anything for the situation? I don't have diatom problems in my freshwater tanks, but I do 40-50% water changes on them.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13732527#post13732527 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevin2000
Suggest you purchase an RO/DI filtering system. Well water (softened or not) is generally considered unsuitable for for reef tanks and often problamatic for even FO tanks.

Is there any other way to help the situation? I don't know how feasible a RO/DI system will be for me.

[kevin2000]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13733004#post13733004 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Orvis
I have a pre-filter on my supply line going to the water softener but I guess the filter combined with the softener isn't enough to remove the silicates, right?

Would larger water changes do anything for the situation? I don't have diatom problems in my freshwater tanks, but I do 40-50% water changes on them.

Even RO/DI filters have a difficult time removing silicates.

Large water changes aren't going to help much if the water your adding is the source of the problem.

You can buy a decent RO/DI filter on Ebay for somewhere around $100 which is small potatoes when you think about how much money fish/corals cost.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13732980#post13732980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crvz
it will last as long as you have a silicate source. new tanks will see the bloom due to anything imported upon initial tank setup (like new plastics, glass, etc.), but if you're not using good source water they could last indefinitely.

I'm not liking the sound of this. I am trying to go low tech with this tank. If I have to get too involved with a lot of equipment I may have to rethink this reef tank.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13733024#post13733024 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevin2000
Even RO/DI filters have a difficult time removing silicates.

Large water changes aren't going to help much if the water your adding is the source of the problem.

You can buy a decent RO/DI filter on Ebay for somewhere around $100 which is small potatoes when you think about how much money fish/corals cost.

I get what you're saying, but why don't I have this problem in freshwater?

[kevin2000]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13733055#post13733055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Orvis
I get what you're saying, but why don't I have this problem in freshwater?

Totally different animal. I think one of the common problems that face many SW aquarist is their background in FW ... somehow everything the KNEW just didn't work anymore and by the time they figure it out they have tossed hundreds of bucks down the drain. SW is just harder than FW and much of the knowledge you aquired doing FW may handicap your SW efforts - lots to learn :)

[Orvis]

Is it because of the added salts in the water? I mean this is the same water that I keep Discus in and have no diatom problems at all and the fish are thriving.

[Orvis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13733080#post13733080 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kevin2000
Totally different animal. I think one of the common problems that face many SW aquarist is their background in FW ... somehow everything the KNEW just didn't work anymore and by the time they figure it out they have tossed hundreds of bucks done the drain.

That's what I would like to avoid, wasting money. Looks like if I want a reef tank it will take more equipment. Got some things to think about.

Gotta go, thanks everyone!