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coralreeferhead
11/24/2008, 10:48 AM
My canister filter just took a dump and I am worried about water filtration. I have been looking around and don't see much about canister filters in reef tanks. Are they not used much? Are there better options for efficient mechanical filtration?

Should I go with another option instead of replacing the canister filter?

My tank is a 29 gallon nano that is not drilled, so no sump. I've had a lot of success with this system but I'm looking for suggestions.

coralreeferhead
11/24/2008, 09:05 PM
^?

ddinox64
11/24/2008, 09:20 PM
How often did you clean it? I have one but was told to not use it. I too have a 29 gallon with plenty(about 30 lbs. almost 4" acroos bottom) of live sand and 20lbs. of live rock. Picking up more tomorrow. I was told by many that the sand and rock with the skimmer was all that was needed.
I like the idea of mechanical filtration but what do I know? In mine I left only the top tray with filter media for large particles. In the bottom three I put various sizes(1/2"-2") of rock to act sorta like a trikle filter. But how often did you clean yours? Thanks

E.intheC
11/24/2008, 09:38 PM
the only thing I'd use a canister filter for in a reef (besides water movement) is to hold chemical filtration media (like carbon, Chemi-Pure, Polyfilter.. etc) but not for mechanical (should use a skimmer) or biological (liverock). Canisters just get gunked up too quickly and cause high nitrate spikes, in my opinion. I have a HOB filter (Aquaclear all the way) on my tank, but it only serves two purposes: water movement and it holds my Polyfilter.

Jandree22
11/24/2008, 09:39 PM
Canister filters are a PITA! I used to have one, and never again... all those hose connections, unsealing the pump, priming the pump, water mess all over... forget about it.

Mechanical filtration... IMO this is something talked about more with freshwater tanks than saltwater/reef, and IMO it's because usually a freshwater setup is more towards first time aquarists that overfeed and what not. It's a marketing ploy because first timer aquarists aren't going to understand much about the nitrogen cycle and maybe not even carbon. I have not run mechanical filtration for quite some time on my tank and no problems. The only thing that would possibly be caught by a mechanical filter is food, and if you need a mechanical filter to catch excess food, your overfeeding. All that will happen is it will get caught in the pad, rot and decompose down into organics. The only mechanical filter that some people use, sometimes, is a filter bag that catches stuff in their drain line, but even then it is emphasized to clean it out frequently as to not let things get too nasty. So bottom line, mechanical filtration, not a big deal IMO.

If you do want to run some carbon, this serves more of a purpose by absorbing chemical junk out of the water column. You can utilize a cheapie HOB whisper filter, or similar, and get a filter bag to dump in some carbon. Change monthly is the general guide.

Only filters you need in a reef setup is live rock/sand for biological and a quality protein skimmer. Good water flow to maximize the effectiveness of both of those. Add regular water changes and you're set. :rollface:

gwenvet
11/24/2008, 10:00 PM
Yup...everyone keeps telling me to get rid of my canister (and the bioballs in my wet/dry) because it builds up nitrates. It seems that live rock, live sand and a sump with a good skimmer is the way to go! Figuring out a sump is a big thing, but it makes sense.

coralreeferhead
11/25/2008, 09:41 AM
Thanks for the input. I cleaned the canister filter every month or so- always nasty! I have plenty of live rock and about 2-3 inches of aragonite. I use a Aqua C Remora HOB skimmer. I absolutely love the idea of not using a canister filter. I hate mine! Nothing but a huge PITA, just like Jandree says. Even with the canister filter, I have detritus storms from accumulation in the rock pores. That is the only reason I want mechanical filtration.

If I got more water movement from powerheads or a koralia or two, would this eliminate my need for the canister? Would the skimmer and live rock/sand do the rest? Am I in a hurry to get something going or am I just lucky that the canister finally took a dump?

hyperfocal
11/25/2008, 01:56 PM
I'm using a Fluval 205 on my nano, and it works great -- provided I clean it every month (to the day). If I let it slide, nitrates start to climb PDQ. I run Purigen and foam in mine.

Current generation canister filters have siphon-preserving interlock systems so maintenance is clean and easy.

Personally, for small tanks I think that canister filters are the way to go. They are quiet, easy, clean, relatively cheap, don't require a sump, and don't need adjustment. They just need to be kept clean, and be backed up by weekly water changes.

YMMV.

johnny313
11/25/2008, 03:22 PM
i have a rena 4 on my 65 with ceramic things in it and phosgen, chemi pure and 2 sponges. Its soooo easy to clean ( 10 minutes ) I clean mine every week. its more for water circulation. I also have a 30g fuge/sump too

Aynesa
11/25/2008, 07:07 PM
I HAD a Penn Plax 1200 on my 120 system while it was FOWLR, but when I got this new tank, I simply didn't put it back on. Ya know what? My water was BETTER for it. Canister filters are more for Freshwater, and FO systems, maybe some FOWLR. The salt in the water is hard on the motor and impellers, and the flow rate is reduced so much it ends up being little more than a place in your tank for organics to rot. I don't need that personally ;)

You're better off setting up a sump with a HOB overflow. I suggest CPR Siphon boxes. I use one, I love it. You can rig a sump out of an old aquarium, but watch out! I'd get an experienced person out there to help you set it up. If that's not an option, then try getting a HOB refugium/sump. IT's the cheap option to setting up an actual sump. They come with their own lights.

What your best bet is to have a good, quality skimmer (Check with your Remora), Live Rock and sand (Check check from your description), and Chaeto (which you can put in the tank itself in a pinch, but you'd be better off in a refugium.) HOB refugiums have their own lights, return pump, and water flow-and cost about the same as a quality canister filter (I paid 150 for my Penn Plax) Chaeto eliminates nitrates from your system, so the LR and sand converts ammonia to Nitrates, and then the chaeto eats the nitrates and removes them. voila! Once you get your setup stabalized, all you have to do is pull out a few fistfuls of chaeto once a month, and you are golden!

Good luck!

hyperfocal
11/25/2008, 07:19 PM
How is salt water hard on the motor? It's completely isolated from contact with water. The impeller is inert and not affected by water, either fresh or salt. Also, how is the flow rate reduced? Please explain.

Aynesa
11/25/2008, 07:28 PM
I can't explain how the flow rate is reduced, but it is. I don't mean vs fresh or salt, I mean the canister filters just always slow down. You plug them in out of the box and the water is spurting out, then after a few months of use (Even if you take the media out entirely or replace it with brand new media) the flow rate is reduced to a trickle.

As for the motor, I mistyped, I didn't mean motor, I meant the internal parts, the magnet being one of them. I had a magnet.... uh, flu meds, I don't remember exactly what happened, but I had to completely replace the magnet and ended up replacing the entire impeller assembly cause it was easier and cheaper. Saltcreep had built up inside the tines when I took it out, which struck me as weird at the time, but that's what had happened. I had 2 canister filters on 2 different tanks, and it had happened on both. Salt built up. Canister filters just aren't great for saltwater tanks. AWesome for FW. Wouldn't have anything else on a FW tank... but saltwater? No thank you.

markandkristen
11/25/2008, 11:15 PM
i use a magnum 350 for carbon and phosphate media. works great. i agree as others have stated they can become a nitrate factory if not serviced regularly. i personally would not use one with the poly filter unless you can change the filter regularly.

hyperfocal
11/25/2008, 11:49 PM
I think it's more a case of the right tool for the right job than simply "canister filters are bad for SW." In my case, the tank is in a bedroom -- a full skimmer and 'fuge setup just isn't possible considering the constraints.

As far as the problems you had with your canister, Aynesa, it sounds to me like they arose from a specific poorly designed canister rather than from canister filters in general. The Eheims and Fluvals I've used over the years have never suffered any of the mechanical problems (salt creep, flow reduction, impeller failure) you describe.

I'd never consider replacing the skimmer on my big tank with a canister filter, but I think they have a place on a small tank when supported by solid maintenance and husbandry.

scottwhitson
11/26/2008, 01:26 AM
If you clean the canisters on a set schedule then I think that they are great tools for mechanical filtration. I use a Fluval on my 75 and don't have any trouble with nitrates. They definently need to be cleaned but so does almost everyhting else on a saltwater tank. If I had to choose between a canister filter or a skimmer then definently get the SKIMMER. But a well maintained canister filter is good for water movement and filtration.

Ourlittleocean
04/17/2012, 05:29 PM
Is a Penn Plax Cascade 1200 too much for a 10G FOWL?

PhilsAquatics
04/17/2012, 06:56 PM
imo, i would buy another canister and just run live rock or ceramic, get rid of all the pads and other stuff , in my expirence every time cleaned a canister filled with all the other stuff i upset the bio and half the bio lived in the sponges i would clean and in some way always effected the display tank in some form ,minor most of the time, most canisters of today are almost 100% zero by pass and all of them are closed loop so its under pressure by only filling the media trays with live rock or ceramic media they dont gum up as fast and it gives them only one job to do, i ran all mine this way with great results id also like to add when you run them this way there is no reason to open the for cleaning at all.

j tavares
04/17/2012, 10:44 PM
I have used 2217 Eheim canisters on my reefs for 22 yrs without them being a problem and never causing the so called nitrate rise that seems to permeate the reef mentality, Good husbandry and experience go a long way, and Eheim Canisters and pumps have a SUPERB track record.