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swegyptian
12/07/2008, 04:07 PM
I just wired up my T5 retro kits, and one little thing makes me nervous. It came with wire nuts to connect the pig tail that comes from the ballast, to the AC power cord. How else could I secure them? The AC wire is stranded, but the pig tail from the ballast is solid core. Can I still use a butt connector and crimp it? Or does the wire nut actually have better contact that a butt connector? I though about soldering it, but I wasn't sure if heat would be an issue, or if I could even get solder to stick to a solid core wire. At the least I would like to put some heat shrink tubing around whatever connector I use to protect it, which is difficult with a wire nut. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Alex

mg426
12/07/2008, 04:36 PM
Either of the methods you have described should be AOK.

ccrider
12/07/2008, 05:06 PM
leave the stranded wire a fraction of an inch longer than the solid and twist the wirenut on, wrap with a piece of tape to make it secure

jimnrose
12/07/2008, 07:23 PM
I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

casualreefer
12/07/2008, 07:57 PM
i agree with you jim. i used wirenuts and taped em up with electrical tape.

James77
12/07/2008, 08:37 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13895660#post13895660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimnrose
I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

They make wire nuts designed for outdoor use that have some type of sealant built inside the nut to water/weatherproof them.

atvdave
12/07/2008, 08:52 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13895660#post13895660 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jimnrose
I'm piggy backing & another newbie; sorry. IN a salt environment wouldn't it be better to either solder the connection or seal the joint with silicone to prevent corrosion? Am I over doing it?
Jim

Yes it would be better. I have in the past put a dab of 100% silicone into the bottom of the wire nut to prevent any salt creep from tracking any current back down the wire and into the tank.

Very good point Jim.

jda
12/07/2008, 09:16 PM
I just solder and shrink them. I hate corroded wire nut innards.

Krazy302
12/07/2008, 09:55 PM
I usually just use wire nuts, like said earlier leave strainded wire alittle longer than solid core and twist away. Then I usually put some liquid electrical tape inside the wire nut just to seal it up..

swegyptian
12/07/2008, 09:58 PM
jda - You solder the solid core to the stranded? I have never done any soldering with solid core wire, so I don't know how well it would hold. I guess I could wrap them around each other and then solder them, with a final covering of heat shrink.

jda
12/07/2008, 10:04 PM
I just hold them right next to each other. If you are worried about it sticking, then you could roughen up the solid core wire with some light cuts with some dykes.

If that doesn't work (always has for me), then I would connect them instead of using wire nuts. I have even used a connector and solder a time or two before.

58merc
12/07/2008, 10:08 PM
Hi, I just so happen to be an Electrician.

Butt splices: A good reliable joint if the right one is used for the wire size and it is crimped properly with the right tool.

Wire nut: Another good joint if done properly and the right size of wire nut is used. Solid to stranded is something I encounter on a daily basis. The key is to be sure that the ends of the wire are even before you put the nut on. Twist it until the wire outside the nut twist together. Allowing the stranded wire to wrap itself around the solid is not the proper way to use a wire nut. If you do this you run the risk of the wire nut pulling off the solid wire. Also, use a wire nut that has the metal spring insert on the inside. The all-plastic ones are junk and in my opinion should never be used.

Soldering: This is probably the best method for your application, although it is a permanent joint and any future ballast replacement will require cutting the joint out or is some cases the soldered joint can be re-heated and taken apart but this rarly works out.

No matter the method you choose (All are fine and will last for years if done correctly) tape the joint tightly with a high quality electrical tape like Type 33.

Hope this helps

swegyptian
12/07/2008, 10:10 PM
58merc- Would heat shrink be OK instead of the tape? Or do you get a better seal and protection from the tape?

swegyptian
12/07/2008, 10:11 PM
And I forgot, but I don't need any special type of solder, do I?

ccrider
12/07/2008, 10:49 PM
33+ tape will last for years on its own

58merc
12/08/2008, 09:57 PM
Heat shrink is fine. 33's a little faster and just as good if you wrap it tight.

I'd just use a flux core solder. Here's a little tip for soldering (giving away all the trade secrets here...) Make sure the wire your soldering is heated with the iron to melt the solder. Simply melting the solder with the iron will not give you the right bond.

Funny side note. Today when I got to work I had a service call to the eastern Iowa airport to change out 46 150w MH ballests. I couldn't help thinking it was a little ironic.

And by the way, it's way to cold here to be outside 20' in the air pulling them smelly ballests out of lights...oh well, guess what I'm doing tomarrow.