View Full Version : filtration for a fowlr 180?
dmopar74
12/15/2008, 01:51 PM
what kind of filtration is acceptable for a fowlr? i ask this because currently i have an asm g2/sedra 5000(yes 5000, not 3500), 45 lbs of live rock setup on my 100g. i am planning on switching over to the 180, and have 55pounds of bio-balls at my disposal, but i hear the balls are bad because they cause nitrate problems. i will get more LR when money permits, but am trying to make due with what i have. i will be running a sump and a couple hob's for mech/carbon.
beezer06840
12/16/2008, 12:51 AM
I think the first question you have to answer is what kind of bioload do you intend to suppport. Quite simply, more fish means more poop which means better filtration needed. If you post your desired stocking list, you will probably receive more valuable feedback.
dmopar74
12/16/2008, 01:26 PM
well, i really havent decided on a stocklist as im new to sw and dont even have any fish in my 100g yet. i think were goona start out with a couple clowns and go from there. i'd love to get a snowflake and zebra eel but dont think those will go with the clowns. perhaps a harlequin tusk. no matter what i want to keep the stock fairly light for now as ive had my 180 packed with fw fish before and much prefer a lightly stocked tank. i think i am also going to make a bunch of diy rock for the sump.
MrTuskfish
12/16/2008, 06:57 PM
Bio-Balls do not cause nitrate problems; they just don't house the anaerobic bacteria that converts nitrate to nitrogen gas; like LR does (usually). This is true of almost every filter system available. They do need to be properly maintained. Just rinse them on a regular basis to remove excess crud. DO NOT scrub them. Nitrates in a FOWLR are no big deal anyhow; nitrates don't bother fish like they do inverts. A good wet/dry (or any good filtration system; like canister, bie-wheel, etc will work in most FOWLR tanks. The bigger the filter system, the better.
Mikeeal
12/16/2008, 07:09 PM
About bio-balls:
I've thought about having a sump large enough to contain enough bio-balls for twice your systems volume, or very close to it. Have them split, (like two five gallon buckets for example) That way, every month or so, (however long before your nitrates get crazy) you could pull one half of the balls and give em a good shower, and place back in the sump. Just keep repeating this with the other set of balls and the other half left in "should" prevent any type of cycle.
I ran this by Mr. Fenner over at WetWeb many moons ago, (maybe five years ago) and while he didn't disagree with it, he felt the maintenance involved would make it counterproductive.
Thinkin out loud again............
MrTuskfish
12/17/2008, 09:26 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13957816#post13957816 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mikeeal
About bio-balls:
I've thought about having a sump large enough to contain enough bio-balls for twice your systems volume, or very close to it. Have them split, (like two five gallon buckets for example) That way, every month or so, (however long before your nitrates get crazy) you could pull one half of the balls and give em a good shower, and place back in the sump. Just keep repeating this with the other set of balls and the other half left in "should" prevent any type of cycle.
I ran this by Mr. Fenner over at WetWeb many moons ago, (maybe five years ago) and while he didn't disagree with it, he felt the maintenance involved would make it counterproductive.
Thinkin out loud again............
If you don't remove the slimy coating on the bio-balls; I wouldn't think there would be any effect with cycling. The slime is where the good bacteria live and removing the loose crud would be no different than rinsing other filter media. This is all just my opinion; but where am I wrong? (Its often somewhere!)
Mike5252
12/17/2008, 09:56 AM
That's a good idea with the bio balls. I may try that...
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