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View Full Version : Cyano on exposed skeletons of SPS


lobsterotomy
01/18/2009, 10:09 PM
I have a problem with cyano growing on the exposed parts due to fragging, tissue recession, etc on my SPS corals. It doesn't grow anywhere else in the tank (not on rock or anywhere else).

The only phosphate test I have right now is an API test which I would say tests at 0, but I'd guess otherwise. The tank is a 21g tank (16 x 16 x 21) with a 10g sump, and cyano occurs at any level, but only on exposed parts of live coral. I'm particularly having a problem with an Acropora jacquelinae that I got. It had been bleached and the tissue had recessed at the LFS. In the time I have had it it has grown a little and coloured up nicely and had some polyp extension too. But the inner parts of the coral are plagued by cyano that I have to tweezer out every few days. Never had the problem when I had a acropora crab hosting it, but it disappeared to who knows where one day and since then has had these problems.

Parameters (all tests API, yes they may not be that accurate, but they are good enough until they run out in a month or so):

NH3, NO2, NO3: undetectable
Phosphate: undetectable
pH: 8.0 (calibrated pH monitor)
temp: 80 F
Ca : ~420 ppm
kH: 9 dKh
Mg: Unknown (haven't had time to use Salifert test kit yet)
I don't skim (have a Tunze 9002 if I need it), and I run a phosban reactor with about 1.5 cups of GAC (Seachem). I also have a tunze osmolator for an ATO.

Light is a Nova Extreme Pro 20" 108W T5HO. The SPS are growing well under it. Recently I noticed that my photoperiod is a bit long. Actnics on at 9 am, off at 11 pm (they were supposed to turn on at 11 am), main lights on at 9:30 am off at 10:30 pm (also supposed to turn on at 11:30 am). Refugium on reverse photoperiod to main lights. Apparently the timers are not set as I wanted them to be, and has been like this for a month, although I had this problem before then too. I think this may be an issue as well, so I will be shortening the photoperiod by 2 hrs for each set of lights.

I run a refugium in the sump (around 5g voulme) stuffed with chaeto lit with 36W T5HO, and it grows well. The SPS are growing and have pretty good colour and are otherwise healthy. Bioload is low - 1 small six-line wrasse, 1 cleaner shrimp and 1 anemone shrimp. I feed mysis or a red cherry shrimp (live) once every three days (everyone is well fed), so I don't think I'm overfeeding at all.

My assumption is that my phosphate levels are not quite zero, causing the cyano to grow.

Would running a phosphate removal media (GFO) help with my cyano issues?

Anything else I might try?

tatmanfish
01/19/2009, 06:01 AM
gfo should work with water changes, but it can take awhile. shortening your photo period will definately help as well. decreasing feedings can also help. if you are impatient and dont mind using chemicals there are a few out there. check your phosban reactor/media as well. if this is running properly you shouldnt have much of a problem. best of luck

lobsterotomy
01/20/2009, 12:01 AM
bump?

nauticac4
01/20/2009, 09:25 AM
I have been battling with the same problem for a while now. I have picked up on my water changes and run a phosban reactor full time stuffed with BRS GFO. My short termn fix was to dose red slime remover which knocked off all of the cyano I had in the tank. I ran a filtersock for a few days and skimmed wet after the treatment and so far I have only had the cyano return in a few dead spots.

I would throw the skimmer you have on the tank and use a turkey baster to blow off any cyano you can. Best of Luck

nauticac4
01/20/2009, 09:25 AM
I have been battling with the same problem for a while now. I have picked up on my water changes and run a phosban reactor full time stuffed with BRS GFO. My short termn fix was to dose red slime remover which knocked off all of the cyano I had in the tank. I ran a filtersock for a few days and skimmed wet after the treatment and so far I have only had the cyano return in a few dead spots.

I would throw the skimmer you have on the tank and use a turkey baster to blow off any cyano you can. Best of Luck

lobsterotomy
01/20/2009, 10:41 AM
Thanks, I figured the GFO might help if I am having some residual phosphates in the tank that I'm not picking up on, and the chaeto isn't getting.

I won't be using red slime remover ever, and I'd like to keep it skimmerless. I'll get GFO first and use it for a while to see if it does it. Then I'll use the skimmer if I have to. IMO better to only change one thing at a time so I know what's helping.