PH and Magnesium question

[Reefer07]

This is moreso seperate questions.
#1- how come I cannot get my PH above 8.0. I have tested at different times during the day and I can never seem to get it any higher. I use a 2 part addittive and my dkh is kept at 8.6 and CA= 420.
Since they have been in balance but not the PH I have also been trying to use the "eight.four" by aqua vitro. (not dosing alkaline part of 2 part)
As far as gas exchange half of the top of my tank is eggcrate and I have a 10 gallon sump which I think would be adequite.

Now as far as Magnesium....
Is there a balanced lvl of magnesium that I should be trying to maintain based on what I keep my alk. and CA at or should I just try to maintain MG between 1300-1500?

Thanks, (thanks in advance to Randy)
Zac

[Percula9]

Your pH is absolutely fine. How is pH being measured?

[Reefer07]

Just a Salifert kit.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Using limewater or more aeration with fresh air are the usual and best ways to boost pH. This has more:

Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm

I'd suggest aiming for about 1300 ppm on magnesium. These have more:

The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 2: What Chemicals Must be Supplemented
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/rhf/index.php

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm

Do-It-Yourself Magnesium Supplements for the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-07/rhf/index.php

Magnesium in Reef Aquaria
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm

[Reefer07]

Ha, I have all those links under my favorite randy.
Anyways I think it's time to do an aeration test again but I did recently make half of my top eggcrate opposed to all glass before.

[Billybeau1]

I have the same problem in the winter when the house is closed up.

Never underestimate the power of CO₂ :D

I don't see anything wrong with a pH of 7.8 or above.

Personally, if your tank looks good, I would not lose sleep over it.

Too many reefers get hung up on the 8.3 thing. :)

[Reefer07]

My tank is definitely bangin right now and I am really satisfied with it so I guess I can leave it. It definitely would not be causing my hair algae and bryopsis problem would it? I thought I read somewhere that raising the PH could help with bryopsis? I am already running my MG high as well as a bunch of other methods to get rid of bryopsis.

[ch0ii]

what shoul be a reef tank's normal pH? thanks..

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Some of the above articles cover pH issues in detail, as do these:

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm

The "How To" Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 3: pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php

from the second one:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php#3

What is the Acceptable pH Range for Reef Aquaria?



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The acceptable pH range for reef aquaria is an opinion, rather than a clearly defined fact, and certainly varies based on who is providing the opinion. This range also may be quite different from the "optimal" range. Justifying what is optimal, however, is much more problematic than justifying what is simply acceptable. I suggest that the pH of natural seawater, about 8.2, is an appropriate goal, but reef aquaria can clearly operate in a wide range of pH values with varying degrees of success. The pH of highly successful coral reef aquaria often deviates substantially from pH 8.2 for at least part of the day. In my opinion, the pH range from 7.8 to 8.5 is a acceptable for reef aquaria, with several caveats. These are:

That the alkalinity is at least 2.5 meq/L (7 dKH) and preferably higher at the lower end of this pH range. This statement is based partly on the fact that many reef aquaria operate acceptably in the pH 7.8 to 8.0 range, but many of the best examples of these types of aquaria incorporate calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactors which, while tending to lower the pH, also tend to keep the carbonate alkalinity fairly high (at or above 3 meq/L.). In this case, any problems associated with calcification at these lower pH values may be offset by the higher alkalinity. Low pH stresses calcifying organisms primarily by making it harder for them to obtain sufficient carbonate to deposit skeletons. Raising the alkalinity may mitigate this difficulty by supplying extra bicarbonate to them.
That the calcium level is at least 400 ppm. Calcification becomes more difficult as the pH falls, and it also becomes more difficult as the calcium level falls. It would not be desirable to push all of the extremes of pH, alkalinity and calcium at the same time. So if the pH is on the low side and cannot be easily changed (such as in an aquarium with a CaCO3/CO2 reactor), at least make sure that the calcium level is acceptable (~400-450 ppm). Likewise, one of the problems at higher pH (above, say, 8.2, but becoming progressively more problematic with each incremental rise) is the abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate, resulting in a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and the resultant clogging of heaters and pump impellers. If the aquarium's pH is 8.4 or higher (as often happens in an aquarium using limewater), then it is especially important that both the calcium and alkalinity levels be suitably maintained (that is, neither too low, inhibiting biological calcification, nor too high, causing excessive abiotic precipitation on equipment).

[Boomer]

"eight.four" by aqua vitro.

Just to throw this out there you should have be using their Aquaovitro "Balance" instead, as it would have had a greater impact on the pH and not the ALk.