Kent Marine RO/DI Rebuild....

[Reef or Die]

I was wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to a link or video that would help me rebuild my 35 gpd RO/DI unit. Its an older Kent Marine.
I just took mine apart completely just now so time is of the essence.
It all started when I decided to add a flush kit.
Now I have on the way, a sediment filter, other filter and the resin filter.
I also purchased a PSI gauge, TDS Meter, flush kit and some new tube from bulk reef supply.
Now I have to figure out how to put it all together....

Just thought there might be a thread to a rebuild like this or some posts that could help me out.

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you'll PM us your email address, and tell us which Kent system you have, we can send you a set of instructions that will help you put it together.

Russ

[Reef or Die]

Sent PM.
I have the a 35 GPD 4 stage Kent. Its looks exactly like the Maxxima just a few years old.
Appreciate any instructions on how to hook up all the pieces I mentioned.
Thanks..

[Reef or Die]

My fault is is the Maxxima. Not HI -S though..

[Buckeye Hydro]

Got your email - check your inbox.

Russ

[Reef or Die]

I got the instructions , Appreciate it.

[Reef or Die]

I am really confused. does anyone have a pic of the Kent Maxxima system with a pressure gauge, flush kit and TDS meter installed. Or just the pressure gauge and and flush kit. I am trying to put mine back together piece by piece and all of the tubing has me going crazy. Just thought if I could see a pic of it I would get a better idea.
The directions helped but didn't show the gauge installation.

Thanks..

[dngspot]

A flush kit will go on the waste line before and after the flow restrictor. The exception to this is, if you have the restrictor as part of the kit, then you will need to remove the old restrictor and install your kit.

As for the gauge, you can put it in a tee at the sediment filter intake. If you are monitoring your filter condition you can add another gauge in the membrane housing. This is done by drilling a hole and taping threads for the gauge.

[Reef or Die]

Let me see if I got this straight.
so, I remove the flow restrictor and install it to my flush kit which leads out to my waste water???
My Kent membrane housing has 3 holes total.
2 on the left and one on the right.
can I screw the pressure gauge into one of those on the left. One is the output waste water so I guess the other one is the one I mean.. Or would I have to drill it like you said...
Sorry I never did this before and have the flow restrictor, HM TDS meter and pressure gauge and new tubing arriving tomorrow. All from Bulk Reef.. Gotta figure this out quick..
Your reply helped out.. Thanks..

[dngspot]

Buckeyefield Supply has a variable flow restrictor/flush valve. The restrictor is located between two tees. A bypass line is attached to both tees and in this line is a valve. The assembly is attached to the waste line. To flush you open the valve then water bypasses the restrictor, because liquid flows to the easiest path. Here is the link, the top one is what I am talking about. http://buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=206&Sub=109
You will need to remove your restrictor. You kit should tell you how you are to install it in the system or not.

The line from your water source is where you want to put your gauge. This is only useful to let you know what the incoming water pressure is. This port may have a red line attached to it. You will need to remove what ever fitting is there and install a tee. You can use brass fittings here because your membrane and DI will remove any metal from the water. I would also recommend installing another gauge in the membrane housing, doing this will give you indication if one of the filters, before the membrane, is failing. You can tell if the gauge on the membrane housing is lower than normal and the gauge on the filters is normal, then the filters are plugged. This can be done by simply drilling and tapping the outside of the membrane housing and installing a gauge. Some gauges come with a tee type of fitting; this allows you to install them in a line. If were to do this you could put one in the waste line before the restrictor and one in the fitting at the water source line.

I did all of the mods to my unit and more. Disregard the double membrane and look at the top one, this is how I installed the gauge in the membrane. It measures filter condition. It took about 5 minutes to install.
The filter on the lower right is the sediment filter. This should have the source water line attached to it. This is where the gauge to measure the incoming water pressure should be.
You can also see the variable restrictor described above, located above the membrane housings.
A quick note my system originally was an EBay unit and is about 3 years old.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/96845Ro-Di-med.JPG

[Buckeye Hydro]

Feel free to give us a call if needed.

Russ

[Reef or Die]

Thank so much for your replies. That RODI UNIT looks like it has all the bells and whistles.
Well i just hooked it up tonight and it seems to be working right. Installed the flush kit to the waste line, and both TDS probes. DIY upgrades are awesome.

Thanks again for your help the instructions you sent helped me figure it all out...

[jh2pizza]

Russ from BFS is the man. He assisted me in bettering my old Kent RODI. His knowledge and customer service is top notch.