Reef Multi Meter

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi,

I am thinking of buying the following meter, would this meter take care of all my testing needs as far a reef tank is concerned?.

HMost of my experence has bee nwith fresh water fish, trying my hand at a reef.

Here is the location of the multi meter.

http://www.hannacan.com/fiches_techniques/K-Photometers/HI83200.pdf

Thanks
Mike

[Peter Eichler]

It's a bit, errr a lot, overkill. It also doesn't have the range you need for certain things that are important such as calcium. The only thing I really test for any more on a regular basis is KH/alkalinity, and you will probably get to that point before long.

Ammonia, unless something is terribbly wrong you're not going to have it in an established tank.

Nitrites, pretty pointless to test for in saltwater. The only time worth testing for it is to make sure your cycle has been completed in full.

Nitrates, if you set up a proper system you'll get tired of testing and getting 0 results over and over again.

Phosphates, getting a seperate Hanna kit for this isn't a horrible idea. However, the amount of algae you have and how iften you have to clean your glass is usually the best way to know if you have elevated phosphates. Plus you can buy a pretty good amount of phosphate remover for the price of a hanna colorimeter. Either way you're probably going to need to buy phosphate remover and a reactor...

Magnesium, after youy've established your systems needs you'll only need to test every now and then to adjust your dosage.

Calcium, see above, except if you're using a 2 part or a calcium reactor you can usually just adjust according to your KH levels.

For test kits I suggest API for alkalinity, calcium, ammonia, and nitrates. For magnesium, Elos or Salifert. For phosphates I say no test or the Hanna colorimeter if you really must know your readings. The rest you can skit IMO.

Now take all that money you saved and spend it on lighting, a protein skimmer, and lots of flow. Those are places where splurging and spending top dollar is often worth it :)

[Peter Eichler]

Just looked back at your first post and you basic tanks specs. Without a doubt you tank would be better served with a flow and protein skimmer upgrade instead of spending over a grand on a testing unit. Same goes for lighting depending on which coralife fixture you have and what types of corals you're hoping to keep.

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi,

My tank setup contains the follwoing.

1. 75 gallon tank (Oceanic)

2. AquaC Remora Pro Protein Skimmer With Drain Fitting & Mag-Drive Pump.

3. Nova Extreme Pro T5 lighting

4. 2- Maxi-Jet 1200 power heads

5. 1-Chiller

6. Two Visi-Therm Stealth Heaters

7. Eheim Canister Filter

8. Phosphate Reactor (Bulk Reef)

9. UV Light

10. DeNitrifier (Midwest Aquatic)

11. Korallin C1502 Calcium Reactor

Think I have everything I need (equipment wise).

Thanks
Mike

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi,

Almost forgot, I also have a RODI unit. The Pinnacle Plus Reverse Osmosis 200gpd unit with an 8800 pump.

Mike

[Peter Eichler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14367983#post14367983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael_B767ATP
Hi,

My tank setup contains the follwoing.

1. 75 gallon tank (Oceanic)

2. AquaC Remora Pro Protein Skimmer With Drain Fitting & Mag-Drive Pump.

3. Nova Extreme Pro T5 lighting

4. 2- Maxi-Jet 1200 power heads

5. 1-Chiller

6. Two Visi-Therm Stealth Heaters

7. Eheim Canister Filter

8. Phosphate Reactor (Bulk Reef)

9. UV Light

10. DeNitrifier (Midwest Aquatic)

11. Korallin C1502 Calcium Reactor

Think I have everything I need (equipment wise).

Thanks
Mike

Just some things to consider in case you haven't purchased this stuff or can still return it...

1.) Always a good choice as long as you know it limits you as far as fish you can keep.

2.) Just not a good choice IMO, and the only time they might be a good choice is on much smaller aquariums than a 75 gal. Problem is most really nice skimmers require a sump.

3.) No great, but not bad either. There are far better T5 systems out there, but the NEP is pretty good as long as you replace the stock bulbs.

4.) You're going to need a lot more flow than that. especially if you have any inclinations of keeping SPS corals down the line.

5.) I actually encourage temp fluctuations and feel they are good for the corals well being in the long run. There are very few aquariums out there that actually benefit from or need a chiller IMO.

6.) Watch them carefully, not the most reliable brand of heater and you'd be well served by getting a temp controller from Ranco to help prevent a possible disaster down the road.

7.) Usually more trouble than they're worth and they really need to have their filter media replaced every few days to not become a nitrate factory.

8.) A dual reactor with phosphate and activated carbon probably would have been a good choice and then there'd be absolutely no need for a canister filter.

9.) Skip it IMO they're just a waste of money save for a few specific problems. None of them being parasites on fish or anything else they;re usually sold for.

10.) Set up a tank properly there should be no need for a denitrator. A good protein skimmer and a good amount of live rock is usually all that is needed. Some chaetomorpha algae growing in a sump doesn't hurt either.

11.) Good call, only thing I've heard about the Korallin unit is it can be a little trickier to get dialed in.

Hope that helps... The $1000-1500 you'd spend on the Hanna meter and reagents could be spent so much better in other places.

[Peter Eichler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14368015#post14368015 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael_B767ATP
Hi,

Almost forgot, I also have a RODI unit. The Pinnacle Plus Reverse Osmosis 200gpd unit with an 8800 pump.

Mike

Sometimes I just assume people have them and forget to ask... Yes, good purchase, though that particular model is a little pricey. I hate to say it, but you skimped in the worst areas (light, flow, protein skimmer) and kinda went overboard in others.

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi,

Thanks for the advice. I went with the AquaC Remora Pro because of the good things I've heard about them, they also say they are rated for up to 120 gallons, figured at 75 gallons it was a good buy.

I want to stay clear of a sump, I'm on the third floor and don't want any water problems, want to stay with a closed system.

As far as flow, should I purchase two more 1200's or scrap them and get something else?.

I need the chiller because I do not have control over the heat, tank temps could easily rise above 90+ degrees. It's hot in my house. I would more than likely run into temp problems in the summer as well.

Do you have any suggestions on a company/manufacturer that I should use to replace these standard bulbs?.

I will purchase a temp controller, thanks.

Bulk Reef is a dual reactor, I run ROWAPhos in one and Activated Charcoal in the other.

I really haven't had any problems with nitrate using the canister filter (cleaned every 3 months), maybe its the DeNitrifier keeping it in check (0ppm).

That's good to know, no sense wasting electricity on a UV light if its not required.

Thanks Peter

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi,

Its me again. I would really like to get digital meters to check the required parameters, looking and attempting to match colors leaves too much room for error. Especially with my eyes and problems discerning certain colors.

What would you recommend, I don't mind if they are separate units, just looking for accurate easy to use digital readout meters.

Thanks again
Mike

[Peter Eichler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14368344#post14368344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael_B767ATP
Hi,

Thanks for the advice. I went with the AquaC Remora Pro because of the good things I've heard about them, they also say they are rated for up to 120 gallons, figured at 75 gallons it was a good buy.

I want to stay clear of a sump, I'm on the third floor and don't want any water problems, want to stay with a closed system.

As far as flow, should I purchase two more 1200's or scrap them and get something else?.

I need the chiller because I do not have control over the heat, tank temps could easily rise above 90+ degrees. It's hot in my house. I would more than likely run into temp problems in the summer as well.

Do you have any suggestions on a company/manufacturer that I should use to replace these standard bulbs?.

I will purchase a temp controller, thanks.

Bulk Reef is a dual reactor, I run ROWAPhos in one and Activated Charcoal in the other.

I really haven't had any problems with nitrate using the canister filter (cleaned every 3 months), maybe its the DeNitrifier keeping it in check (0ppm).

That's good to know, no sense wasting electricity on a UV light if its not required.

Thanks Peter

If you really don't want a pump you're pretty limited in skimmers options as mome of the hang on units are great. If you're keeping SPS you may struggle with nutrients down the road, if you're sticking with other types of coral odds are you'll be fine.

You can buy mods for the Maxijets that up the flow a great deal. I have never tried them but some people love them, others have issues.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AF-SF1600&Category_Code=Maxijet

Koralia and Tunze pumps are other suggestions, how much flow you'll need again depends on what type of corals you want to keep.

If your apartment really gets that hot the chiller will probably come in handy. I'd suggest a couple small fans on the water surface (fans can go a long way to keep tank temps in check) and then setting the heaters to turn on around 79-80 or so degrees and the chiller to turn on around 84-85.

Bulbs, I like ATI quite a bit., KZ and UVL are also good. Personally I run 3 x ATI Blue +, 1 x ATI Aquablue, 1 x UVL Actinic, and 1 x UVL Aquasun but there are certainly other good combos. Again, what combo to run and even if it worth changing out the stock bulbs will depend on what corals you want to keep.

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi Peter,

If I decide to change my lighting, what do you think about the T5 Powermodul?.

What would be a good set up for my 75 gallon tank.

Again thanks for the help

Mike

[Peter Eichler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14368513#post14368513 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Michael_B767ATP
Hi Peter,

If I decide to change my lighting, what do you think about the T5 Powermodul?.

What would be a good set up for my 75 gallon tank.

Again thanks for the help

Mike

The T5 Powermodule is probably the best T5 fixture available in the US. But, that's really only if you're going to focus on very high light corals. There's no reason the Nova Extreme Pro won't allow you to keep anything you want once you switch the bulbs. If you really want to upgrade the lighting the 6x54w Powermodule would be the best choice.

You're welcome, I hope I haven't overwhelmed you.

[Michael_B767ATP]

Hi Peter,

OK, I'm going to purchase the Powermodul instad of the multimeter.

Thanks for all your help.

Mike