To submerge the drainpipe or not?

[Snausy]

Just finished putting together the new sump last night and I'm almost done. I just have one issue left to address.

I have two overflows that connect to a single drainpipe that drains from an elbow about 3 inches above my cornered bubble-chamber(full of LR pieces to break up bubbles). However, it is VERY loud...I'm thinking of running some PVC down to the water surface but am trying to decide if I can submerge it or do I need to leave it enough room above the surface for it to vent?

If I submerge the drain output to silence it will there be significant bubble backup to the overflows?

What's the best/most quiet way to drain into the sump into a bubble-chamber from directly above it? Any ideas would be most appreciated! Previously I had seperate drains with flex pvc to T's so one end of the t went underwater and the other was above the surface to vent. Maybe a T instead of an elbow with PVC running down underwater?

What do you guys do?

[THE ROOK]

Mine is submerged a few inches. I'm sure it creates a little back pressure but it's much quieter.

Two things I found;
1st- I use a 45 degree elbow under water - much better than straight in.
2nd- I cover that section with acrylic due to salt spray from the rising water.

[Wakeskater02]

Maybe take a picture so we can actually see what you are talking about. However, note if you submerge the pipe, you might then hear the slurping or "bubble gulps" coming from the inlet portion in the overflow? The reason is, there is no airventing. What will happen is the falling water will eventually back up and only drain so fast. what do you need the bubble trap for? Are there micro bubbles in the water that is falling down? If so maybe try and fix a sock to the end of the sump return pipe. That might solve two things at once and they are only like $10. If you get a small enough micron sock it will also take care of the bubble problem as well!

[Wakeskater02]

Maybe take a picture so we can actually see what you are talking about. However, note if you submerge the pipe, you might then hear the slurping or "bubble gulps" coming from the inlet portion in the overflow? The reason is, there is no airventing. What will happen is the falling water will eventually back up and only drain so fast. what do you need the bubble trap for? Are there micro bubbles in the water that is falling down? If so maybe try and fix a sock to the end of the sump return pipe. That might solve two things at once and they are only like $10. If you get a small enough micron sock it will also take care of the bubble problem as well!

[Wakeskater02]

Maybe take a picture so we can actually see what you are talking about. However, note if you submerge the pipe, you might then hear the slurping or "bubble gulps" coming from the inlet portion in the overflow? The reason is, there is no airventing. What will happen is the falling water will eventually back up and only drain so fast. what do you need the bubble trap for? Are there micro bubbles in the water that is falling down? If so maybe try and fix a sock to the end of the sump return pipe. That might solve two things at once and they are only like $10. If you get a small enough micron sock it will also take care of the bubble problem as well!

[Wakeskater02]

sorry about the tripple post.

[Snausy]

I have a couple filter-socks but I think that would accomplish the same thing as the bubble-trap that is already there while adding the nitrate factory. The less I have to maintain the better. Changing out the flitersocks every three days is a pita imho.

I have microbubbles because it's a brand new hurricone skimmer...it'll take a month to settle down. The bubble-trap is to break down the bubbles that are created by the water falling from the drain. If it was submerged there wouldn't be that problem. I'll try a 45 degree output underwater and see what kind of "burping" I get.

I like the idea of submerging the end of the drain yet somehow having a vent at the same time.

My PVC comes horizontally to the bubble-trap and then elbows above it to go straight down into it. I still wonder about changing that elbow to a T with PVC going down under the surface and capping the top half of the T with a small vent. It would DEFINATELY be quieter than the waterfall nonsense I have going atm.

Please keep the ideas coming...I'll add a picture or two to help. I'm very happy with the new sump...it's so much easier and "cleaner" than the old one. Much less complicated.

[biger]

Hey Snausy, Check this out. Looks promising.

http://projectreeftank.com/2008/05/26/reverse-durso-to-quiet-a-noisy-drain/

[Snausy]

Awesome vid...thanks for that! That's almost exactly what I envisioned and was talking about. A "T" fitting with a vented cap. He uses a "Y" which works better but the concept is the same.

I'll try this out...it think this would work perfectly with my bubble-trap. I just wonder if it's really necesarry to increase the diameter of the "Y" fitting or can I just keep the same diameter going. Seems like the increased diameter creates a large chamber with more air in it so there is increased splashing sound and bubbles once the water hits the surface of the sump.

He also neglects to mention how large a hole in the cap he drilled. I suppose you could drill a couple small ones then close them off with electrical tape until it's perfect.

[mikenjo]

a reverse durso pipe on the return in the sump should quiet it down
i cant even here mine unless the doors are open under the tank
google durso pipe to see what it looks like

[biger]

I think you want to increase the diameter cause it actually makes it easier for the air to escape quietly. JMO

[Snausy]

I used a 1-1/2 "T" with a reducer from the 1-1/4" and it worked beautifully. Very quiet now with no gurgles whatsoever. When I close the doors I can't even hear it now.

Thanks for the help! The project is done....FOR NOW! *dun dun DUNNNN* <---That last part was for my lady who laughs at me everytime I say I'm done. I never am. :)

[biger]

Congrats, glad to hear that u are really done. (for now)