I'm new here and this has probably been discussed 100 times, but...

[headless]

I have a 92 gallon corner reef tank that I've had for about 1.5 years...it has done very well until now...I have the problem of the red slime.

I have checked all the water values for Ca, Mg (a bit low), Nitrates, Phosphate, pH, etc...have new lights, use protein skimmer and phosphate pump (also add charcoal for more nitrate removal)...the only thing I don't have is great circulation and for that I'm adding a koralia 2 and 3 today...

I have tried multiple water changes after using chemiclean 4x...that means 4 20% water changes, argh!

I also used ultra slime 2x and it was of no use.

I turned off the protein skimmer and phosphate pump when I used these.

Now my tank is over 50% full of slime and I cannot control it...What if I were to add trunchus snails or red leg hermits? Is there anything out there that can eradicate this crap before all my coral and the rest of my tank is taken over by this annoyance?

thanks...

[Aerowen]

the same thing is happening to my tank right now, do you have a sand bed?

[Toddrtrex]

[welcome]

What are the actual parameters of your water? (( "fine" "good" etc, won't work )).

What do you all have in the tank (( fish and coral/inverts ))

What is your filtration ?

Are you using RO/DI water?

[headless]

I will recheck all levels tonight (just put in koralias so really moved a lot of stuff around in the tank)...

As far as what's in it...I have a lot of live rock...this, along with the skimmer and phosphate pump are the only filtration devices I use...

I have some leather coral and 1 piece of brain coral which looks like it's on its way out.

I have one of each of the following: Yellow tank, 6 line wrasse, pajama cardinal, lawnmower blenny, clarkii clown, and electric blue damsel. I also have 2 (last I could see) emerald crabs, 2 urchins, 1 sally lightfoot, a variety of snails (mainly margarita and a few astra), and an atlantic anemone. I used to have substate, mildly coarse, but covered it with 10 or 20 pounds of sand some time ago as my sand sifter starfish apparently needed this...

I use compact fl. 96 watt actinic and 10k as well as a 65 watt 10k...

[Duce]

Did you do full dose of Ultalife?
As well when you say 2 times you meant doesd only twice? Try a a few more times.....
Yes additional flow will improve...

[Gary Majchrzak]

what kind of skimmer are you running?
what's your S.G. at?
what's the alkalinity at? (real numbers needed!)
ever drip kalkwasser?

[CaliReefer12]

A lot of people turn off the lights on their tank for 3-4 days. Its best to manually remove as much as you can before you treat the tank or leave the lights off so the die off doesnt hurt your livestock. When a few of my rocks were covered I found it too tedious to try to just take it off in the tank so i took them out and scrubbed it all off them rinsed them in RO water and put them back in the tank. Easiest way to remove the slime.

[RRaider]

What else are you using for flow?

[headless]

Too late with work tonight....will post all levels tomorrow night (yeah, work gets in the way of hobbies sometimes..argh!)

As far as the question regarding the ultralife, I dosed it 2 or 3 times as well...did turn off the skimmer and phosphate pump as the skimmer does go nuts when you use the stuff....it had no effect, just like the chemiclean....it's almost as if the red slime pays no attention to the chemicals, that's why I thought it might be a chemical imbalance...I worked to make sure all of them were good...

I have also read that the nitrates might look normal with red slime because the stuff eats it, thereby eliminating the excess...this is the reason I put the skimmer back on...it had been off for a couple of weeks while I was using the chemiclean...when it was first put back on, it filled probably 10 times before it went back 'to normal.'

I'll post all my tank numbers tomorrow night...

[headless]

Okay,

Got one value...calcium now at 450 after being low for some time. I started putting in Mg as it was sitting around 1200...the Kent says it ups it about 18 every 100ml, so within a week I should be up to 1300...

I'll check everything else tomorrow night...time to get some zzzzs...

[headless]

Will have values up for you pros up by 10pm tonight...looking forward to some other good ideas...

[robot2222]

i think that is cyno bacteria. i think you can get snails to help you.

[headless]

What specific snails eat the stuff and where is the best place (online?) to get them...are there any places that charge reasonable amounts to deliver them?

[pjewett]

bump-riding along

[ssw]

add red slime remover it works

[headless]

red slime remover did nothing...both chemiclean and ultra...multiple treatments of each and now probably over 6 water changes of 20%...talk about point of frustration!

This is where I am at and why I am asking here...the obvious means of rectifying this situation are not working...

When I post all the water results tonight, maybe this will help...

As far as trochus snails or others go, any suggestions for red slime eating critters would be great...

[Toddrtrex]

The water test results will help a lot. Something is fueling the cyno, and (( IMO )) any red slime removers is just going to mask the existing issue --- which is too many nutrients in the tank. Are you using RO/DI water? And if yes, what is the TDS of it.

[headless]

I use RO...when I get home from work and get my act together (meaning, after dinner), I'll tell you which brand of water filter I'm using along with the all the values...

Talk soon...

[mustang51js]

it seems to me that you dont have much light, is it just those 2 lights you have, i had red slime on my old tank and had t8's and now i have t5's and a gfo reactor and it wnet away, oh and i have about 30 snails that helped alot and removing some by hand

[headless]

I have three lights...1 96 watt compact fl. actinic, 1 96 watt compact fl. 10k, and 1 65 watt compact fl. 10k...the actinic goes one first in the morning, then the others kick on soon after...at the end of the day, the actinic is the last one to shut off.

This should be more than enough light for that tank?

I will admit that if anything, I had the lights on for too long during the day...now I just leave them on about 8 hours a day...

[Toddrtrex]

IMO, the only time lights effect algae is when there is excess nutrients there, the lights will only shine light on an existing issue (( pun intended )).

Heck I had a 2 year old PC bulb (( 96 watt quad )) over my fuge, which is on 24/7, still don't have any algae issue in the fuge -- since there aren't any excess nutrients to feed them.

[mustang51js]

how old are they, my old lights were the wrong color spectrum so they made me get some brown algea which turned into the red slime, i also didnt have much of a clean up crew and wasnt cleaning much myself, it might not be your problem just an option

[pjewett]

i'm following this because i'm seeing the red algae for the first time in my 7 month old tank. it's in one patch on the substrate. I'm hearing discussions of light here....my bulb is only 2 months old but I did recently cut my light period BACK from 10 hours to six....soon after i saw that patch show up.

did i cut back too much?

i'll be checking my RO TDS too.

[headless]

The bulbs are about 2 months old...funny how the condition really got worse after I changed the bulbs...should've left in there what I had, perhaps?

Okay, time to go home and eat...get results up later...

[headless]

Okay, here are the values:

Calcium 450
Magnesium 1250
pH 8.4
Alkalinity Normal 1.7-2.8
Nitrate 15ppm
Phosphate .10ppm

[Toddrtrex]

Assuming the Alk's unit of measure is meq/L, the higher number is good, but 1.7 is too low.

Mag is just a bit, low, but not too bad.

Nitrates are higher then I would like, and phosphates are high. I suspect that both are actually higher, but some of that is locked up in algae and cyno.

Would recommend using a phosban reactor, and doing water changes with RO/DI water (( with a TDS of 0 )). It will take some time, but that should go a long way towards fixing this.

[headless]

Have a phosban reactor (think that is what it is called)...also have charcoal in it to help with nitrate levels.

I increased the circulation dramatically last night with a koralia 2 and 3.

I am doing water changes but they don't seem to be killing the stuff...it keeps growing faster and faster....argh!

I'm in the process of upping the Magnesium as it was as low as 1200....I know this takes a little time as the Kent product only raises by 18 per day...

Do you know of any good critters that actively eat the red slime? Some say mexican red leg hermits, others say trunchus snails...are there others? Also, where is the best place to get such invertebrates? Some sites are more reasonable with delivery than others..

Thanks...

[Masonic]

i would start with looking at the ro/di water TDS .and maybe over feeding?

[headless]

I'm being careful about how much food goes in there...use freeze dried krill...have frozen food but haven't used for a while...could the krill be building up something? Everybody in the tank seems to like it...

The RO water...crud, forgot to post what brand it is...will get that up here too...I change the filters regularly...it's the long tube kind that screws into a base and the tap water flows through the bottom and out through the top (that's probably all of them).

What about critters to eat the stuff...anyone have good source for these and know which ones work well.

I had an aptasia (sp?) problem many months ago...some peppermint shrimp eradicated the problem...nice, easy solution....

I'm continuing to bring up the Mg levels...will recheck in day or two...

[Toddrtrex]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14576953#post14576953 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by headless
....

The RO water...crud, forgot to post what brand it is...will get that up here too...I change the filters regularly...it's the long tube kind that screws into a base and the tap water flows through the bottom and out through the top (that's probably all of them).

What about critters to eat the stuff...anyone have good source for these and know which ones work well.

....

I know that unit you are referring too, and to be blunt, that is pretty much worthless. All it is an DI filter, and depending on your water, will only give you 20-40 gallons of water before it stops doing anything. Would be better off getting your own RO/DI unit from one of the RC sponsors.

As for something that eats it, nothing has proved to eat it consistently, and IMO isn't something that is worth worrying about.

[fufu]

If all else fail, use maracyn. Works like magic. Some people may say dont use antibiotic but I use anyways and no side affect to any of my coral or fish. I use plain tapwater and I dont have red slime anymore.

[headless]

fufu,

What do you mean by using plain tapwater?

As far as maracyn goes, is this simply a particular antibiotic?

[Jenisiz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14573040#post14573040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Toddrtrex
IMO, the only time lights effect algae is when there is excess nutrients there, the lights will only shine light on an existing issue (( pun intended )).

Heck I had a 2 year old PC bulb (( 96 watt quad )) over my fuge, which is on 24/7, still don't have any algae issue in the fuge -- since there aren't any excess nutrients to feed them.

Agreed...

[headless]

fufu, what amount of maracyn do you use?

[headless]

Got home today to see my tank about 50% filled with red slime again...even with more flow and all the levels pretty good.

I put in a serving of ultra slime remover...so frustrated over here. I just cannot get rid of this stuff...I am going to have to try the maracyn and bomb the tank with it...something has to be done to kill this red stuff...other than that, everything in the tank looks great...what the heck is up with this red slime?

[pjewett]

Just took the turkey baster to the lone 2 by 2 inch patch of cyno I had on the sand. To be thorough I took a small syphon tube and gently went over the area. I seem to have gotten all that's visible and I don't see any on the rocks go far...gulp

Removed my 2 week old phosban bag & carbon bag from my fuge's 1st chamber and threw in a fresh bag of chemipure. Cleaned my protein skimmer (does this need to be done before the waste level has reached the entrance of it?) and backed my lights back to 6 hours for MH and 9 of the actinics. Will probably add a koralia 1 to blow down on the sand from up top.

I'm also going to order a bulkreefsupply GFO reactor though I had been trying to avoid this as I don't have a sump and this thing will have to be mounted behind the display or something. I'd rather try it and fail (loosing $40 temporarily until I get a bigger tank) then fight this evil crap.

[fufu]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14580217#post14580217 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by headless
fufu, what amount of maracyn do you use?

I use half dosage on the maracyn I(do not get maracyn 2) So if the recommendation for 100 gallon, dose for 50 gallon. I use tap water as my top off, I have never touch RO water in my life. I have no algae, I'm lucky I guess.

[headless]

I'm with ya on that...anything to get rid of the dreaded red slime.

fufu, I will get some maracyn (it's actually erythromycin)...do you know what the dosage is for 100 gallons (in mg or whatever measure they use?)...as far as 'topping off' with tap water, I'm still in the dark with this... I use the crappy RO and never had a problem...until now....I don't know which factors are to blame but I really don't care....I just wanna get rid of this stuff before it irritates my brain coral and leather corals!

Thanks all for suggestions...keep them coming...

As far as trochus snails, anyone know where to get them cheap? I've been reading that they, above over snails, are good at eating red slime...

Oh yeah...how long for the maracyn to kill the red slime? Is it basically immediate?

Thanks...

[IridescentLily]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14575423#post14575423 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by headless
Have a phosban reactor (think that is what it is called)...also have charcoal in it to help with nitrate levels.
Are you saying you don't have gfo in your phosban reactor but do have activated carbon in it, and that the gfac helps with your nitrates?

Do you have any gfo to put in your reactor? How long has it been since you changed the media inside?

[fufu]

Go ahead use RO, I would use if I have a system. I treat Cyano for my freshwater tanks for many year with Maracyn and it work perfectly. I use for the same in Salt and the results are still the same. I would turn off the skimmer when you are dosing it. It take rougly about 1-2 week for them to slowly die off, but it should help it stop spreading. The dosage is on the box, just follow the instruction. Also try to the get the tablet version, so you can nuke it at certain parts of the tank.

[headless]

I have a phosban reactor with both charcoal and phosban in it...I figure I can put as many things in it as it will allow...I do change the media every month or two...I know phosban lasts a lot longer than charcoal. I use a protein skimmer for nitrates, but add the charcoal to the phosban reactor to just get an added effect...I have added ammonia sponges as well but I don't think those are too necessary...

[Hop]

I'm sorry, perhaps I missed it skimming over your posts... How long has it been set up? And does it have a SSB or DSB?

My guess based on the repeated infestations is that the SB, rocks or both are loaded. It may be time to pull all the sand and let it run BB for a few weeks. then remove half the rock and cook it. Then add sand back in, put cooked rock in and then cook the other half. Sometimes when rock and SBs get depleted it is the best cure to reset the tank and then work on the other factors that contributed to its loading. IE time to work on nutrient export;)

This is of course my opinion...


Edit* I see t has been up for a year and half... This is certainly enough time to load the rocks/SB depending upon other factors.

[Gwynhidwy]

Personally, I would advise against using any antibiotics in your DT, it will cause massive problems and the cyanobacteria will only return in time. You have to address the cause.

My suggestion is manual removal of as much of this as possible on a daily basis. The turkey baster method works well, or depending on your sump setup you may be able to just stir it up into the water and remove it with a filter sock.

If you want to add a critter that will *usually* eat cyano get a couple of fighting conchs, Strombus spp., here:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+526+2174&pcatid=2174

or here:
http://www.pacificeastaquaculture.com/Detail.aspx?ID=56&ReturnPage=%2fShowProductCategory.aspx%3fCategoryId%3d4%23I+1012

Other than that, you have to deal with the nutrient issue. More macro in your fuge, actual RO/DI water, better nutrient export, or fewer nutrients in. Nuking the cyano will not fix the problem, only create additional ones. Good luck!

[headless]

I spoke with a marine biologist today and his recommendation was to let it take its course, stop treating it....and keep all the filters on. He said to keep it off the corals, but otherwise, the water nutrient levels need to plateau...at that point, it can be removed or eaten...

On that note, I ordered some trochus snails and 2 fighting conchs...thank you for the recommendation above...they do apparently eat the stuff pretty well..at least off the sand/substrate...

Will keep everyone informed as the tank is really blanketed in the stuff...argh!

[Brandon M]

I would suggest investing in a good RO/DI unit (I always suggest www.thefilterguys.biz ), it sounds like the simple RO unit you are using is not getting your TDS to where it needs to be. This, in my opinion, is what is fueling your cyano.

[k.tran]

what i did is water change every day 10 gallons it was gone in a week. suck out as much as possible of it

[headless]

I made a mistake on a past post...I actually do have the DI water...same system since I've had the tank and it was given to me by the prior owners...never a problem. It's this one...

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/199638/product.web

I replace the filters as recommended.

I think if I let things settle and stop treating (and turning off my filtration each time), things might settle down. I have to give the increased circulation time to have an effect as well.

I liked the suggestion for some critters to eat the stuff...beyond that, frequent small water changes might help as well (provided the water is relatively clean, I agree)...

Have to see what will happen.

This website is a very valuable resource...I'll keep updating...should get critters in tomorrow...

[kstallbe]

Patience is key with any of these issues. Usually when I have a tank problem, I adjust, then wait 2 weeks to see if the adjustment made a difference. Blitzkrieging the problem will only leave you confused, and without knowledge as to the source of your problem.

I think most on here would agree that your cyano is directly related to a phosphate problem. Running phosban will obviously help, but not cure the problem. You need to get to the root.

Most phosphates are introduced through the fish food or the water. I am not familiar with that filter you are using, but it does not look to be sufficient. Invest in a reverse osmosis/de-ionization filter, and a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter.

Then do water changes for a few weeks while running your phosban. Also, rinse any frozen foods you add. Together with good skimming you should not have a problem.

Good luck.

[mustang51js]

yeah that filter you whave is a waste of money, you would be lucky to get 10gallons of good water out of each filter, i had one when i first started and thats all i would get out of it.

[headless]

It's the same filter system that has been used for 10 years on this tank (I've had the tank for 1.5 years)...never a problem before and I change the filter regularly...

The phosphate levels are fine with the phosban reactor...I even have additional charcoal in it to help with nitrate levels...which are also looking fine. I realize that nitrate might look fine due to the cyano gobbling up the extra...

Plan of attack:

Make sure filters are on 24/7...refill phosban reactor and put in lots of charcoal and nitrate absorption stones, add cyano eating snails, 10% water changes every week, take out cyano when easy to get out...hopefully the cyano levels will reach maximum levels and they'll decrease from there...

It's amazing all was fine until a month ago...makes you truly appreciate how fragile our oceans are!

[ejwasson]

Do you have bioballs in your sump?

Eric

[kstallbe]

headless, the best thing with these problems is to eliminate the variables. Tap water is one of the most common problems. Without a TDS meter and sensitive phosphate test kit, you are flying blind on your tap water quality. It may very well be that you tap water/filter combo was fine for the past 10 years. But, your tap water quality or filter quality may have recently changed.

Getting a good RO/DI system eliminates this uncertainty. If you know you are putting in quality water, which you don't, then you can begin to focus elsewhere. Otherwise, you are gonna spend a long time (and additional money and frustration) chasing your tail.

A properly set up tank should not really require animals to eat cyano. There should be no cyano due to macroalgae or phosban use. But, if you want to play whack a mole instead... be my guest.

[headless]

Okay...is there an inexpensive way of getting a better filtration system? As is the case with everyone now, there's not a lot of money around for serious upgrades...however, dealing with this problem has been costly enough already...

What's the consensus here for an inexpensive, yet better way to get better quality water?

[kstallbe]

Not exactly cheap, but it should be affordable given some scrimping: http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm. 135 plus shipping.

I am sure other people will have better suggestions for you on this point. Also, check out the equipment forums here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=212. And the selling forums here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=2.

Again, best of luck.

[mustang51js]

it would pay for itself in no time, how much are the filters like $20 a piece and even if they last a couple months which i beleive they wont, in about a year or so its paid for itself.

[headless]

kst,

your first link doesn't work...can you repost? Thanks...

Regarding bioballs, any need?

[kstallbe]

Sure, let's try that again: http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm.

If that doesn't work, just type"filter guys" into Google. First result is the website. RO/DI systems is the page I was linking to.

[Chibils]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14588724#post14588724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kstallbe
Sure, let's try that again: http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm.

If that doesn't work, just type"filter guys" into Google. First result is the website. RO/DI systems is the page I was linking to. +1. Take off the period at the end.
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm.

Turning your lights off for at least three days ought to kill it. It is cyanobacteria and thrives off nutrients and light. The fact that your cyano returns full force after water changes leads me to believe that you're taking nitrates and phosphates out and putting fresh ones in.

Take out the charcoal in the phosban reactor and put in some gfo (granular ferric oxide). It is a powerful phosphate-removing resin. bulkreefsupply.com has gfo and an ro/di for the same price as tfg. tfg has outstanding service, but combined shipping rocks.

[Brandon M]

You need a better water filtration unit, the one you have now it now sufficient. The cyano is being fueled by all the excess nutrients from your tap water. Spend the money and get a nice unit from the filterguyz.biz, you will be happy you did.

[ejwasson]

No need for bioballs, they can house nitrifying bacteria. Just wanted to make sure you didn't have a nitrate farm in your sump.

Eric

[headless]

Okay...new water filtration system is a good way to go...

If I shut the lights off for 3 days, won't I kill the coral? I have leather, brain, and the kind that pulses...

[headless]

Is this a good one? Also, how often do you have to change the filters? Doesn't this become very expensive? (I guess there's no alternative?)

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-RO/DI-Systems/c9_10/p366/Standard-75GDP-RO/DI-5-Stage-System/product_info.html

[headless]

crud...it won't put the whole link in...

I'm referring to the Standard 75GDP RO/DI 5 Stage System that is 150.00...

[kstallbe]

Bulk sells good stuff too.

I change my filters pretty infrequently. Maybe, and i mean maybe, once every 6 months. As long as the TDS meter reads 0, then you're good. My pre-filter here in NYC gets sorta dirty fast. Other than that, it ain't so bad.

[pjewett]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14592494#post14592494 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kstallbe
Bulk sells good stuff too.

I change my filters pretty infrequently. Maybe, and i mean maybe, once every 6 months. As long as the TDS meter reads 0, then you're good. My pre-filter here in NYC gets sorta dirty fast. Other than that, it ain't so bad.

Hey kstallbe

I'm in Maspeth, Queens. Have you ever tested NYC tap for phosphates? I just bought a seilfert test to see if my phospate prob is due in part to my water. I use RO/DI and need to test the TDS but was curious about the phosphates in the cities water?

[headless]

So, this system is more than adequate for my needs? Also, the GFO pellets look good for the phosban reactorr...I'll likely get some of their carbon as well...nice site with good instructional videos...

[kstallbe]

PJ - are those red sox? Living in Maspeth? Dang! ;) Anyway, you know, I have tested it, but I don't remember the results. If I recall correctly they were 0 via an API test. But, the experts on here say that the "hobby tests" aren't really foolproof. Plus, the water quality can change. I've read quite a few stories about changes in the municipal water supply leading to disaster.

headless - that RO/DI system should set you up real nice. You will definitely see an improvement in your tank, and less fluctuation in your maintenance. Congrats!

[pusanpa]

I'd replace sand to more fine one. Detritus build up is the problem IME. You can get one that does not blown by pump at PA.

[headless]

Thanks for the help. The RO/DI system is clearly a better way to go...until I can get the funds and get that ordered (need a week or 2), I'm curious to see if the trochus snails and fighting conchs will make a difference...they're in the tank now...

[kstallbe]

I too am interested... though I doubt they could actually overcome a phosphates/red slime issue. Also, you recently added the phosban.... so now you cannot deduce the cause - too many variables! ;)

Good luck!

[headless]

No, the phosban and skimmer are off again as I treated with the ultra slime remover one last time (might as well finish off the bottle)...

Right now I just have good water levels (or so they appear) and lots of circulation due to the koralias...

I'm monitoring...the marine biologist I spoke with said not to worry about the red slime too much...just don't let it get on the coral and knock down nutrient levels with phosban and skimmer...I'll give the snails/conchs a day or two and then get things back up to snuff again...the skimmer is effective rather quickly and as of yesterday, the values were pretty good...

Who knows...curious about the critters...

[ssw]

i hand scrubed my rocks ,then used red slim remover and it worked. then i cut the light down to 7 hr blue / 5 hr whight,and it worked for me.

[headless]

I have turned my protein skimmer back on as well as the phosban reactor...changed everything in it...lots of phosban and charcoal. I also have nitrate sponge bags in the sump...

I added 12 trochus snails and 2 fighting conchs...

I'm monitoring the tank and the levels look good...the skimmer filled up about 5 times!

There is a thick carpet of the stuff in the back of the tank (less current) and some of it is getting eaten...have to give it some time but I'm hoping the slime has maxed out...I will manually remove the slime (easy to pull off now in some areas)...

My object is to eliminate excess nitrates that the slime likes to eat...if nitrates are reduced, then this will slow the rate of growth and hopefully manually removing as well as letting the snails go at it will end the red slime...might be time-consuming, but it will probably work better.

In the meantime, the tank looks great...my corals are doing very well and the fish and invertebrates look good too...the levels are all testing in the safe range...so, I'm assuming that the nitrates are being consumed by the red slime, so that number is not correct...with all I'm doing with filtration, I should have that completely under control soon.

Stay tuned...

[luther1200]

A PO4 level of .10 is very high IMO. And its probably higher than that, but bound in the cyano. Once you start doing regular WC with RO/DI water you will see results.

Just out of curiosity could you post the phosphate level of the water you use for your water changes.

[headless]

Will get that to you when I check tomorrow night...I'll check tank and water change water...

I used to have a phosphate problem but the reactor eliminated it to at or below .10...interesting to check the level in the water that goes into the tank...makes good sense...

Do you also buy media and filter supplies from bulkreef?

[pjewett]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14595202#post14595202 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kstallbe
PJ - are those red sox? Living in Maspeth? Dang! ;) Anyway, you know, I have tested it, but I don't remember the results. If I recall correctly they were 0 via an API test. But, the experts on here say that the "hobby tests" aren't really foolproof. Plus, the water quality can change. I've read quite a few stories about changes in the municipal water supply leading to disaster.

headless - that RO/DI system should set you up real nice. You will definitely see an improvement in your tank, and less fluctuation in your maintenance. Congrats!

I know right! I'm deep in enemy territory here...and I married a Yankee fan because I must be some kind of sadist.

[headless]

Okay...the phosphate and nitrate are zero coming out of my tap water filter...that makes me reconsider spending money right now on a fancy RO/DI unit.

In addition, the slime is decreasing in the tank as the fighting conchs eat it! I can't tell how much the trochus snails are contributing, but I'd say there's about a 25% reduction in the slime thus far. I filled the phosban reactor with fresh phosban and charcoal as well as some nitrate sponge (the white stuff)...I will still contact bulkreef and get some of their charcoal and GTF...looks like good stuff and certainly cheaper than the very expensive phosban...

[luther1200]

What kind of test kit are you using? And how old are they? Tap water definetly has Phophates in it, they use it as a preservitive or something like that. And I know the filter you have because I used to have 1. It won't get the PO4 out of the water, and if it is now it won't for very long.

Try doing this, test the straight tap water with your test kit, and if it still reads 0, you need a new kit.

[wrassefan]

RODI unit will help but you need to check for TDS...s/b 0. Couldn't tell what skimmer you are running but I would look at that.

[headless]

Test kit is not the problem...I am testing the water weekly and am making water changes....still have to get RO unit...money tight right now.

I test higher in phosphates and nitrogen the other day...low in Mg...

Changed the media in the phosban reactor...will check again today/tomorrow.

The fighting conches and trochus snails are doing fine...I'm down about 40% in red slime...nothing dying, coral looks great...fish happy...

Just looks a little ugly but the tank is thriving...

[headless]

Well, the red slime is 90% gone and the tank looks nice and healthy again...the trochus snails and the fighting conches work...period.

As far as the levels in the tank, they are about nil now as I upgraded product in the phosban reactor and added bags of nitrate sponge...I'm also adding magnesium as the levels were low...the alkalinity is coming back too...

Yahoo!