New Guy

[tkriverman]

Hi all,
Just thought I'd finally do a post after reading for a coouple months. I currently live in Watertown. Getting ready to set up a 72 x 18 x 22. Probably start sometime in Mid May, when I get back from the giant sandbox. I was talking to Tim from ABC VIA email about getting a tank. Tried PETCO, they say they are discontinuing thier large tanks, over 75 Gal. They ordered me one, but it was supposed to be in last thursday, asked me to give them one more week. If it's not in by the 9th, I'll probably go with ABC. Looking for info on good places to buy stuff. Here's what my setup plan is.

125 Gal RR
100 lbs Base rock
25 lbs live rock
Possibly drilled for closed loop (if not I will DIY One)
I want to run 6 80w T5's using 3 workhorse 7 ballasts
DIY stand and canopy
5" DSB
Still working on stocking list
Wifes list (want's everything lol)
My list for starters
hippo tang (Paracanthurus hepatus)
yellow tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)
Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion Percula)
Mandarin Dragonet After about 1 yr (Synchiropus splendidus)

Just a beginning, I have alot more I'd like but still researching care and feeding, compatibility etc...

and of course corals.

40 Long DIY sump with FUGE

About 600 GPH thru sump / 250 GPH thru Fuge
Have some powerpoint drawings I made up, showing plumbing baffles etc..I'll post later

Dan

[gary greguire]

Hello welcome aboard.. nice set up if you are a little flexible on tank size I know a few people have 180s and 220s for sale a very reasonable rate. I have six t5s over my 180.

I would research the sand bed a little more, I personally like the starboard bottom which is just bare bottom with some protection.

I have had bad luck with the hippo tangs & I would make the yellow one of the last you add they can be mean to newcomers.

what are your plans for a skimmer?

and be sure to get an ro di unit they make a world of diff.

If you ever want to make a road trip you are welcome to come by and see my system.

Gary

[tkriverman]

I am flexible on tank size, would like it to be 72" Long though. I have to re-inforce my floor anyway. I have an aqua C EV 180 skimmer. Bought it in anticipation of getting my 125 from petco. I wanted to go to a DSB because of nitrate reduction, and all the cool critters that live in the sand. Was planning on using oolitic sand to create this, and adding to as necessary to make up for dissolution. Let me know on any tank deals though. (tank only, I want to build the stand and canopy) I'm also in the market for a 40 long to use as a sump. (any size 48" long would be ok) I'm always open for suggestion, I will go re-read up on the pro's and con's of the DSB. Also, I'll be back in the area the 1st week of May, unless it's an absoult have to pick up now deal, I'd like to wait until then to pick up any tank. (otherwise my wife would have to coordinate it with my 16 and 14 yr old sons) I would be willing to go half now, half on pick up if the price is right. Thanks for the advice / input, I appreciate it! Will definatly get an RO / DI, had one concern on those though, do they really waste 10+ gallons for every gallon they make? forgot to add I'm shooting for 15 to 20 times per hour on the circulation.

Dan

[aries70]

Welcome and Hello, RO's Don't waste like 10 gallons per gallon when operated correctly mostly have enough pressure for the membrane to operate correctly, they do, however, waste about 4 gallons per 1 gallon and that's so the membrane last longer.

Dan

[tkriverman]

Wow for a 220 gal tank thats like 880 gallons of water to make 220. Any ideas on where to buy bulk ro / di for initial fill up? Mabe it' time to get a pool as well.:)

[tkriverman]

Is there anyplace local to buy base rock / live rock? Any good pet shops up your way? Thank you both for welcoming me.

[gary greguire]

no, one of the best deals on rock right now is bulkreefsupply they have dry rock for a good price then you only need a small amount of live rock to seed it.

There are no good shops up here the best around is ABC reefs in syr.

[aries70]

Ya that is alot of waste water but that is from a standard RO if you add a secound membrane or find a unit with dual membranes you will be able to get like 1 gal product to 1.75 gal of waste water that's about what mine gets.

Dan

[loosecannon]

Wellcome!

[tkriverman]

Thanks for the welcome loosecannon. I found some base rock on ebay, 50lbs for $115.00 free shipping. I was going to go the 90% base rock / 10% live rock route. I wonder if your could have your waste water from to ro/di unit drain into a drum / trashcan / whatever you wanted, then when the waste container is full, move your ro/di input to the waste container, and re-run the water thru it, repeat till done. Would this work? Gary, thanks I'll check them out. I was looking at Marco Rocks as well.

[aries70]

it could be possible to do that but it would ruin the membrane faster

[tkriverman]

Yea, I could see how it would do that. What kind of RO/DI unit are you running Aries70?

[aries70]

I started with one I got off E-Bay that was 100Gpd when it came time to replace filters/membranes I added a secound membrane so I now have two 75 Gpd filmtec membranes to get less waste water and uped it to 150 Gpd most RO's are the same inside on exception is the membranes Filmtec's being regarded as the best one's so basicly I have a "generic" RO/DI

[tkriverman]

Probably what I'll do to. How do you add a second membrane? Is it as simple as putting one on top of the other, or do you add a second chamber in series?

[tkriverman]

I just looked up how to do it. Pretty simple.

[aries70]

you can get kits to add the secound membrane which consist of membrane canister and membrane and some tubing and connectors basicly the waste line from the first feeds the secound and both product lines get t'd together. hope that answer's you question
Dan

[tkriverman]

How often do you have to replace your filters and membrane?

[tkriverman]

Yep answered my question perfectly. Thanks for the info.

[tkriverman]

aries, cool tank, I see you're a DIY kinda guy. I am too, nothing better than saying I built that!

[aries70]

membrane's about 1.5 - 2 yrs, the other filters carbon,sediment should be replaced every 6 months or so and the DI when you start getting more then zero TDS in product water
Dan

[aries70]

Ya I like DIY stuff not always cheaper but a lot more fun and rewarding also ;)

[tkriverman]

that's not bad, I was thinking you had to replace the membranes every couple of months.

[aries70]

ya it would get a bit pricey if the membranes had to be replaced that often ;)

[aries70]

and thanks about the Tank last month I got rid of the Damsel clan I wanted so other fish and they flat out said NO!!!! ;)

[tkriverman]

Yep, I have a full plate when I get home, my wife has already made the list. I have 22 replacement windows sitting in the dining room, 500 feet of 12 / 2 UF and 2 100 amp breaker boxes in the basement to replace my knob and tube wiring, 2 gallons of epoxy to fix my boat floor, and an Aqua C EV 180 under the staircase waiting for her fish tank lol. Good thing I get 30 days leave when I get back!

[aries70]

30 days ? do plan on sleeping ? lol

[tkriverman]

Yea I read damsels can be a terror to other fish. The're pretty though. Blue Chromis (Chromis cyaneus) would add a splash of color.

[tkriverman]

I've been in the Army for 20 years, 6 hours is all I can get. It's like a built in alarm clock, no matter what time I go to bed, 6 hours later, bing, wide awake.

[aries70]

ya this was the third group of 4 stripes i've had little bastards even attacked me unless I had food ;) I chromis but right now I have just 2 fish an Racoon Butterfly and a pygmy(cherub) angel pretty cool fish. Ya the military has that effect on people and seing it's been 20 yrs it's probly secound nature to ya

[tkriverman]

Any problem with the racoon butterfly messing with your corals? How does the pygmy get along with your butterfly?

[aries70]

the racoon did great with the Manjono's now thier gone I have problems keeping him fed it won't eat any prepared foods I've been getting rocks with manjano's from LFS here in plattsburgh, but it did eat my frog spawn, some mushroom's, picks at my gorg's only one is bothered by it, I got a couple Condy's today hopefully it'll think their tasty just this week the racoon started to get a little aggressive towards the angel

[tkriverman]

The racoons are very nice looking, I was thinking a CBB, can't see buying coral to feed a fish. That will down the road though. I'd think it would be the other way around on the agressiveness. Go figure, shows what I know.

[aries70]

Well if the Racoon does any serios damage to my Gorg's he'll go bye bye. But i really wish It would eat prepared foods alot cheaper to feed and like you said I don't like feeding anything but pest's to the fish but I can't let it starve either

[tkriverman]

I definatly agree with you there. Mabe you could put out an all hands message, send me all your Manjonos!

[aries70]

ya that might work I'd probly end up with more then I would know what to do with ;)

[aries70]

I thought about getting a 10 gal and farming them in it

[tkriverman]

True, farming them in a 10 Gal is an idea. Not sure what the reproduction rate is on those. You could always post an ad, Manjono problems? Have racoon, will travel. Probably won't get many takers though.

[aries70]

Well I learned the hard way that If you feed them they will multiply, I orignally had like 4 of them I thought they were cool so I fed them that was 5 or so years I just finnaly got rid if them

[tkriverman]

Dang, sounds like rabbits.

[aries70]

exactly I've seen em split in thirds

[tkriverman]

That would be cool to watch.... In someone elses tank!

[aries70]

lol I totly agree

[tkriverman]

Are you running any kind of auto top off for your system from your ro/di unit, or do you just top off as needed?

[aries70]

I have a 20 tall I fill from the RO couple times a week put a couple tbsp of Kalk in I have a cheap powerhead that's hooked to Ice maker line that goes to a float valve in my sump works pretty well for me

[tkriverman]

I've been reading up on Kalk as well, I know the why and how of it, but not the practical application. I had a couple ideas for an ATO, using a lift pump with a float valve to avoid syphon effect. I really have to figure out how to change my power point slides to PDF or JPG so I can upload them on here.

[tkriverman]

Gotta go to a meeting, be back later

[aries70]

sounds like it should work my powerhead is always running it don't care either way eventually it will cake up with kalk and I just soak it in vinegar. I like float valve's they are either open or closed unlike electronics which are going to fail, especially considering they not found of water, ok see ya

[tkriverman]

Yep, saltwater is pretty corrosive. I am reminded of a car I bought 18 years ago, look at all the cool buttons, everything lights up. I figured out after awhile, cool buttons = more points of failure.

[Buckeye Hydro]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14768522#post14768522 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tkriverman
How often do you have to replace your filters and membrane?

From FAQ No. 1 on our website:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ

[tkriverman]

Thanks for the info buckeye, I did read that, I was curious specifically how often aries has to change his, because his water source is local to mine. Good info though, Thank you.

[gary greguire]

check this out
http://binghamton.craigslist.org/for/1109312330.html

[tkriverman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14774055#post14774055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gary greguire
check this out
http://binghamton.craigslist.org/for/1109312330.html


If I was home I'd be all over this one.

Dan

[tkriverman]

Wife picked up the AGA 125 rr from petco yesterday. (got it for the clearance price, even though they tried to charge her full price for it) It's sitting on the dining room table, eargly awaiting my return. I also got an AC JR for a killer price with a temp probe, serial port and a DC 8. Can't wait till I get home and get this puppy going.

[aries70]

Very cool

[tkriverman]

I posted a PIC of it sitting on my dining room table. I made my wife email me proof! Lol

[aries70]

lol

[aries70]

Well I traded the Racoon for a Scopas Tang today, the racoon started togo after my gorgs, oh well


Dan

[tkriverman]

Well I guess your racoon got to travel anyway! Sorry he had to go though. Cool looking tang, is yours one color, or a blend?

[tkriverman]

What return pump do you guys recommend for my tank. It has 2 ea 1" drains, and 2 ea 3/4" returns. I was thinking a Mag 18 or a Gen X mak4. Am I in the ballpark here?