PDA

View Full Version : Phosban, Phosguard, ROWA Phos


mtb888
04/06/2009, 02:08 PM
Does anyone use Phosban, Phosguard, ROWA Phos? How often do you change our the resin? What is your success? My phosphates have been as high as .1 and I want them to be zero.

Randy Holmes-Farley
04/06/2009, 02:35 PM
Are you using any now? Those are all brands of GFO, and they are a good way to reduce phosphate.

If you are using it now and the phosphate is staying above 0.1 ppm, then you likely either need to use more, or change it out more often. You might need to change it weekly or it often if phosphate stays that high, as it will be depleted fairly fast (assuming it has good contact with the water as in a reactor or good cannister filter).

I discuss GFO here:

Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.htm


and these may help:


Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners,
Part 4: What Chemicals May Detrimentally Accumulate
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-09/rhf/index.php

mtb888
04/06/2009, 02:52 PM
Yes, I use it now but only replace the resin every month or so. It has not kept the levels below .1.

mtb888
04/06/2009, 02:53 PM
I have read "The How to Guide" throughly.

mtb888
04/06/2009, 03:06 PM
(GFO) Phosphate binders was a good article. I will use a little less change more often and test for results. I was also wondering what cake is? Is it something that forms on the Live Rock or is it just a chemical change?

mtb888
04/06/2009, 03:08 PM
My alk is at 8.3, PH is 8.2 and calcium 450. So I dont think it is affecting any of these parameters so I shouldnt have to worry about calcium carbonate being decreased should I?

Randy Holmes-Farley
04/06/2009, 03:29 PM
cake? I do not know what you mean.

I think changing it more often is a good idea. :)

You may get some precipitation of calcium carbonate on or around the GFO. That is common. As phosphate drops, calcium and alkalinity consumption by corals and such can also increase, so you might detect a drop in alkalinity for these reasons. :)

Aquarist007
04/06/2009, 05:46 PM
Before using a GFO material you should try to see where you are importing phosphates into your display tank. Limiting the importing of phosphates to begin with should ensure that using a GFO material will be effective in keeping the levels of phosphates down.
Common ways of importing phosphates are over feeding, using tap water, poor water flow or circulation, not rinsing frozen prepared foods and over use of phytoplankton.
A more efffective and natural way to reduce phosphate leves would be to set up a refugium with cheato macro algae in it.

mtb888
04/06/2009, 07:43 PM
well I use a RO/DI unit (Kent Marine Maxxima), let my frozen food thaw and then disgard as much liquid as possible, use phytoplankton every other day (only about 10-12 drops), my water circulation is over 10x the tank volume. One source that you didnt list was carbon. I have not tested the carbon I use as a source of phosphate. I have no money or space for a refugium at this point although when I upgrade my system in a year or two I will definately have a sump and refugium.

Aquarist007
04/06/2009, 07:55 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14774153#post14774153 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mtb888
well I use a RO/DI unit (Kent Marine Maxxima), let my frozen food thaw and then disgard as much liquid as possible, use phytoplankton every other day (only about 10-12 drops), my water circulation is over 10x the tank volume. One source that you didnt list was carbon. I have not tested the carbon I use as a source of phosphate. I have no money or space for a refugium at this point although when I upgrade my system in a year or two I will definately have a sump and refugium.

You need to rinse the frozen food thoroughly---I put the frozen food in a small brine shrimp net and then let water rinse right through it---it may seem like something simple but over time you are adding phosphates and nitrates that are from the breeding tanks of mysis and brine ect.

10x's flow is minimal
a preferred range is 20-40 times your tank volume in gph
circulation is also important--you need a flow going down --across the substrate and back up to the surface of your tank. The surface should be churning.

Don't understand why you feel running carbon would be a source of phosphates?

mtb888
04/06/2009, 08:06 PM
Ok I will work on my circulation and a brine shrimp net. I read a few articles that claimed carbon can be a source of phosphates. Any suggestions on what type of powerheads for 30.00 a piece maybe less

mat167
04/06/2009, 09:50 PM
koralias or maxijets with mods might be able to be found at 30 bucks. Maxijets without mods are easily less than 30 bucks but the flow is a little low...

Randy Holmes-Farley
04/07/2009, 07:13 AM
One source that you didnt list was carbon. I have not tested the carbon

The carbon will be insignificant relative to foods, whether rinsed or not. ALL foods MUST have a lot of phosphorus in them. That is just the nature of food. :D

mtb888
04/07/2009, 07:59 AM
Thanks for your help everyone!

Aquarist007
04/07/2009, 08:36 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14776892#post14776892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mtb888
Thanks for your help everyone!

thank you for showing appreciation to everyone's efforts:thumbsup:
Good luck