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View Full Version : Help me plan an easy ATO


returnofsid
05/26/2009, 03:47 PM
Hi all,
I've never had any type of ATO system, except for me carrying buckets...lol. I'd like to see some ideas for an ATO system. I'll have plenty of room under the tank that I'm going to be setting up. The tank won't be anywhere near my RO/DI system though. So, I'll have a reservoir of some type, probably a Rubbermaid tote or something similar, that I'll fill as needed. I'm not at all familiar with ATO, so be descriptive please...lol.

In case this information is needed, I'm going to be setting up a 200 gallon deep dimension, and building my own stand. In the stand, I'll have a sump/fuge, a calcium reactor and the ATO system. Still haven't decided if I'll go with an acrylic, premade sump/fuge or if I'll purchase a 40 breeder and build my own sump/fuge. Inside the stand, I'll have an area of approximately 44"X32"X32" tall, although I may build the stand slightly larger than the tank, in order to accommodate equipment. The tank dimensions are 48"X36"X27" tall.

Thanks, in advance for all your help and suggestions!!

mightyevil
05/26/2009, 04:07 PM
This looks pretty simple and very cheap. I am not an electrician but this doesnt look 100% safe so use at your discretion...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UmT2rV0iYE&feature=channel_page

steveg1980
05/26/2009, 04:26 PM
Your basic system is laid out pretty well here:

http://www.aquahub.com/store/diygaquarium.html

You can modify it by not using the 12v relay and transformer, but using AC makes it more dangerous. Essentially you wire the float switch into a cut up extension cord plugged into a socket and powering a pump. The danger is that there is 120v flowing through that cheapo float switch, which is partially submerged in your tank.

returnofsid
05/26/2009, 05:33 PM
Can anyone explain how one of the above 2 designs would be better than the other? I'll admit that the first one (Youtube link) looks very simple. The only thing that might concern me, is the float tube capable of handling 120 volts safely?

adnup
05/26/2009, 05:39 PM
The YouTube vid is just llike Melevs, as seen <a href="http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/auto_topoff.html">HERE</a>. I made mine like Melev and have had it up and running for almost 4 years. Works great!

steveg1980
05/27/2009, 11:43 AM
The youtube and Melev version are basically the same. They both run the 120v AC through the extension cord, then through the float switch, then into the pump. Again, the danger is having the current flowing through the float switch, which is in direct contact with your tank water and the wires are only inches (or less) from the surface of the water. I have also used this type in the past with no harmful effects, but it's undeniably not the safest approach. You can make it safer by running the float switch wires inside pvc though, which would help.

See the pic at the bottom of this page: http://www.athiel.com/lib12/diytopoff.htm

The aquahub version uses a transformer and relay to change the current to 12v DC, which is much safer. You could also use a battery operated pump, with the float switch wired directly between the batteries and the pump switch. This method is the safest, but you also have to worry about the batteries dying and making your ATO inoperable.

Here's a link: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29093

Lastly, you could eliminate the electricity all together by using a gravity fed system or a mechanical float. Here are links to those types:

http://joejaworski.wordpress.com/2007/09/30/the-25-auto-topoff-solution/
http://www.reefbuilders.com/2009/05/26/diy-tea-jar-auto-topoff/

ah30k
05/27/2009, 12:04 PM
I use gravity (which rarely fails) and a mechanical float valve.

http://www.fishsupply.com/szvkm-00140.html

Simple rubbermaid tote positioned above the sump. connected to the float valve which is positioned in the return chamber of the sump.

returnofsid
05/27/2009, 12:42 PM
Some great ideas!! I do like Melev's technique and have always felt I could trust any of his builds. I do believe I'd probably incorporate a relay into the design though, for safety reasons and to eliminate the chances of the float switch burning up with a spike in voltage. I also like the mechanical float and gravity feed technique except that I'd have to keep the water storage above the level of the sump. Hmm, some great suggestions to think about. Thanks everyone!!

mightyevil
05/27/2009, 12:48 PM
Well, dont forget to post your progress here so that someone else could use your idea, I would like to see how you throw the relay in there as I know squat about electricity.

returnofsid
05/27/2009, 02:13 PM
Well, once I decide which route to take, I'll definitely update everyone, including pics.

OpCode1300
05/27/2009, 02:29 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15085299#post15085299 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ah30k
I use gravity (which rarely fails)...


If that DOES happen i think we all have bigger issues!

Dholmblad
05/27/2009, 02:45 PM
Melve, states that the fresh water reservoir that water is being pumped from needs to be lower then the sump or a siphon will be created. Is there anyway around this with a bleed line or something?

steveg1980
05/27/2009, 04:03 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15086298#post15086298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dholmblad
Melve, states that the fresh water reservoir that water is being pumped from needs to be lower then the sump or a siphon will be created. Is there anyway around this with a bleed line or something?

You have to make sure the output tube from your container is above the water level of your sump. If the outlet tube is below the water line, it will siphon if your container is lower than the sump. If the outlet tube is above the water line, no siphon can be created regardless of where your container is in relation to the sump.

By the way, the link for the battery powered ATO is wrong... For some reason, whenever I try to post the link RC automatically inserts the wrong url and directs back to RC. Is there some sort of rule prohibiting links to other forums?

Anyway, the post is at http://www*nano-reef*com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29093 (replace * with .), posted by a guy named undertheradar, subject is "Wet's Battery powered air top-off...$10."

Frank AZ
05/27/2009, 04:06 PM
While this is a very crude drawing - it gives an idea of how I set mine up.

I used two float switches for mine - the one is the primary control for the top off pump, but, the second one is present in case the primary switch shorts out / has issues / etc to turn the pump off.

The relay used is a solid state relay (I have them on hand) and it accepts 3 to 36vdc for input.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/505/191404bad_drawing.jpg

returnofsid
05/27/2009, 05:43 PM
Steve, you aren't posting the wrong link, RC bans anything related to nanoreef dot com from being posted.

fatboyt123
05/27/2009, 05:50 PM
you know i asked this same question on RF trader LOL

i am looking to make one too really getting dont like carry buckets either

adnup
05/27/2009, 06:00 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15086298#post15086298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Dholmblad
Melve, states that the fresh water reservoir that water is being pumped from needs to be lower then the sump or a siphon will be created. Is there anyway around this with a bleed line or something?

Mine is at the same level but I have the hose go into a fitting which is attached to a PVC Tee. One end faces up to the air and the other goes down for the water. As soon as the pump stops it pulls the air in from the top and no siphon!

adnup
05/27/2009, 06:14 PM
Mine is at the same level but I have the hose go into a fitting which is attached to a PVC Tee. One end faces up to the air and the other goes down for the water. As soon as the pump stops it pulls the air in from the top and no siphon!

like this

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d183/ADNUP/DSC03806.jpg