Stainless steel hose clamps in sump?

[smedley93]

I'm just wondering if I should use a stainless steel hose clamp to connect my return line to my in-sump pump? I'm thinkin it might cause some problems. That true?

Thanks

[kgross]

If it is good stainless it will be OK, but most stainless hose clamps do not have stainless screws in them just to warn you.

Kim

[NanoReefWanabe]

since it sounds like you re connecting to a hose barb...you can use heavy duty zip ties...thats how i did mine...

[uncleof6]

Even good stainless eventually will corrode, and hose clamps are not even good stainless. I have a mental block going on right now, but they do make plastic "hose clamps" with a ratchet mechanism, and this would be ideal for this purpose.

Jim

[kgross]

The plastic hose clamps do not work very well though.

Kim

[BeanAnimal]

To add to what the others have posted:

Even high quality stainless can rust (or appear to rust) depending on what it is tooled with. The tooling can leave a significant amount of tool steel imbedded in the surface of the SS. I am not sure that it would be a problem, but why take the chance.

Are you putting hose on a barbed fitting? How tight is it without the clamp?

[Dead_Head_Reefr]

I have a plastic clamp on my return pump. It's 3/4 and it works great just as good as a ss one. Don't know where you heard they didn't work good. I have had no problems with it.



Tony

Hope that helps, I don't mean to come of mean or anything. Just helping.

[kikireef]

+1 to dead head. The plastic hose clamps are all I use. They have never given me problems and they are easy to remove for when I need to clean something. You should be able to get them at a lfs.

[uncleof6]

*

[smedley93]

I'm gonna try the plastic hose clamps and see what happens. I just don't like the idea of a corrosive metal being in my system.

Thanks for the tips

[Cove Beach]

Here is another option,put a PVC connection on the pump below the water and make your hose barb connection above. For example if you are running a Mag 9 put a 3/4"fp to 1" PVC adapter on the pump and a union after that and adapt to whatever hose or pipe you like. This keeps the clamp out of the salt and gives you the ability to easily remove the pump for maintenance.

[n00by]

I've seen stainless steal hose clamps rust even from the spalsh back when used near a sump.

[jim.l]

The rust won't hurt anything.... If you use GFO then you're paying a lot for rust. Just change the clamp out before the screw becomes unusable.

[reefman30]

I am gonna try these
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TLF-CLAMP1&Category_Code=Clamps

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/plumbing/hoseclip.jpg

[uncleof6]

better yet, don't use barb fittings and then you don't need clamps. Barb fittings are too restrictive to flow. I must be in a mood tonight or something..........

Jim

[scaryperson27]

Two Little Fishies makes the same ratchet type hose clamps that you are talking about.

[davocean]

The ones reefman30 posted work great for me, just wish they were available at places like HD.

[nothing1191]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15174789#post15174789 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by davocean
The ones reefman30 posted work great for me, just wish they were available at places like HD.

Usually Ace Hardware carries these plastic clamps but for some reason Home Depot and Lowes never have them.

I have also had good luck with the plastic clamps, they're just harder to get tightened sufficiently.

[scaryperson27]

yeah, you have to line them up right or else they pop off.

[davocean]

Thanks for tip on Ace, they just opened one down street, I'll check.
I've cranked down on those pretty hard w/ channel locks, and I'm surprised I've never had one crack, or come loose.
Haven't had a prob w/ them lining up myself, only issue is they can be a lil tough to remove.

[Amp2020]

I tried using a plastic clamp once and had it slip off. I used all my strength to tighten it up with my bare hands and it still slipped. At the time I wasn't thinking straight and forgot that I have some tools in the shed. Use a channel lock wrench and use light pressure to secure the clamp and it should never fail. Use too much pressure and you might break it. Easiest way for me to remove them is to use a wrench and open it wide. Place to the wrench so that its touching the thickest parts of the clamp and spin it. This causes the rachet teeth of the clamp to slip apart.

[firefighter6681]

I have used stainless hose clamp but they have rusted every time and that was even out of the water just about the sump. Like Kgross stated the screw is not always stainless. I stopped using hose clamps and went with Big Zip Ties.

[Cove Beach]

Best bet is to ditch the barbs and go with PVC or Spaflex

[therealfatman]

If anyone knows a good auto mechanic that has a good tool box just ask him to band it for you. In cars with constant velocity joints (most front wheel drive cars) they cover the joint with a silicone boot and this bott is held on with a band applied by the mechanic wirth a banding tool using banding and banding clips. Those are made of a high quality stainless steel. They banding is narrow banding about the same width as the plastic clamps.

However I prefer to just use PVC pipe insrtead of restrictive barb fittings. By tubing a bit smaller than the PVC pipe that you can not install by hand. Then heat the end of the vinyl tubing in a glass of nearly boiling water and just push the tubing over the pipe a distance of about 1.5 times the pipes outside diameter. The tubing will not come off as it will be so tight once it cools that you will need to cut it off. It has worked for me for years. Much cheaper than using a piece of flex PVC to prevent transferred vibration and allow some flexibility to rigid pipe runs.

[BeanAnimal]

The brand name of the product fatman is talking about is the band-It clamping system (now owned by Idex). I have used the tool for many years (in the mining industry) and likely have a few laying around somewhere. Great product, but uber expensive and way overkill for our purposes, not to mention that removal will require a hacksaw :)

[therealfatman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15187991#post15187991 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
The brand name of the product fatman is talking about is the band-It clamping system (now owned by Idex). I have used the tool for many years (in the mining industry) and likely have a few laying around somewhere. Great product, but uber expensive and way overkill for our purposes, not to mention that removal will require a hacksaw :)

But if you can get your mechanic friend to do it for nothing whom cares if it is over kill. A simple pair of side cutters will remove the band usually. I have one because I used to own some volks wagon diesels with front wheel drive and did my own repair work. I use to have to replace three or four boots per year so it paid off in less than one season. i beieve I had abut $150 in the toll and the banding and clips. But that was 2o years ago when I bought them. They are still widely used.

[BeanAnimal]

Yup I grew up with VWs. We had no less than (5) of them and replaced CV joints and boots on a regular basis (and door handles, and starters, and numerous other parts that always broke on a regular basis).

We mostly used the center punch style bands and tool (T300 series) for mine spray hose and similar applications.

[therealfatman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15188430#post15188430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Yup I grew up with VWs. We had no less than (5) of them and replaced CV joints and boots on a regular basis (and door handles, and starters, and numerous other parts that always broke on a regular basis).

We mostly used the center punch style bands and tool (T300 series) for mine spray hose and similar applications.

My first new car I bought in my first marriage was a 1972 VW Super Beetle. Bought it two months after I got c back from Vietnam. Top of the line for $2299. Drove it for 8 years. Only two engine rebuilds and one trans axle rebuild. Nothing like jacking up a bug by the back bumper and dropping the engine on a wheel less tire and dragging it out by hand. Two people could pick them engines up real easy. Road a bus once to a garage carrying a transaxle that needed repair.

Sad thing though, is I sold a 1971 Hemi Cuda, complete with full plate motor mounts front and rear, a fully boxed frame before I went to Vietnam. Maroon paint, Black vinyl top, 426/425hp HEMI engine with 3 holley 500 dual pumpers, factory N96 Shaker Hood, 4-speed transmission, DANA 60 posi-traction, power disc brakes, power steering, Rallye instruments, AM radio, remote left mirror, black upholstery, and factory Rallye wheels amd meaty Good Year street slicks in the rear to a rear engine 1200 cc Blue VW bug. Yep the first wife had our first child while I was in Nam.

Yep those were the bands complete with center punched bands with fold overs wings on the clips. VW's banding tool was pretty lame but Snap On had a pretty good banding tool.

I had to deal with a half mile long dirt and gravel drive way every spring that filled the torn boots caused by extreme winter cold weather driving. Even silicone boots did not stand up to 40 to 60 degrees below zero. Could only use lithium grease in all front wheel bearings or the wheels would not turn. Have you ever drove on tires that have flat spots frozen in the tires from parking the car. Whats the sayingF Oh yeah, they are only flat on the bottom. Takes about 50 yards for the tires to become round again. In really cold weather if a dog pees on your tire you get a flat tire because the urine breaks the bead. Ever use nitrogen gas in your tires so that they do not lose pressure ue to the cold?

Did you know if you throw a cup of hot water or coffee into the air at 40 or 50 below, nothing comes back down.

[therealfatman]

Above 70 ⁰C., sodium bicarbonate gradually decomposes into sodium carbonate, water and carbon dioxide. The conversion is fast at 250 ⁰C.:

2 NaHCO₃ -> Na₂CO₃+ H₂O + CO₂

70 ⁰ C. is equal to 158 ⁰ F.

250 ⁰ C. is equal to 482 ⁰ F.