water change, does anyone heat their water?

[shrimplover]

I have been frustrated for many years trying to figure out why our tank just doesn't take off. We have great water perameters and lighting, I'm grasping for any recommendations. Does anyone preheat their new water before a water change?
We have a large trashcan that we use for our fresh RO water. The basement temp is room temp or just cooler than room temp. We fill 5 gal buckets and dissolve Red Sea RO Salt just prior to siphoning the tank. It's 120 gal reef. Approx 3 weeks btwn water changes. Approx 9 gal out and 11 gal in. Siphon from main tank and add new (cold/room temp) water in sump. Top off also added to sump based on evaporation, usually 2 days. The overall tank temp will drop 2 degrees for less than half a day, from 81 to 79.
Is this enough to mess with anything?

[ctenophors rule]

some heat their water up, i add my water so slowly it doesn't realy matter, of cousre i am talking about top off, i dont do water changes

[nattarbox]

Isn't your specific gravity measurement going to be inaccurate if the new water isn't close to the same temperature as your tank? I also heat mine because with a smaller tank it can more quickly shift the temps.

[Beaun]

I heat mine, but that is just because I use NSW and it is ~40 degrees in the winter.

[Peter Eichler]

I heat mine mainly because I tend to do larger less frequent water changes. If I were doing 10% water changes like a lot of people do I wouldn't worry about it. Also, a 2 or 3 degree swing shouldn't do any harm unless your corals have been accustomed to a very stable temperature for a long time, even then I doubt 2-3 degrees will be an issue.

[LobsterOfJustice]

I don't heat it - just a few degrees away isn't going to make a difference for a 10%, 20%, or 30% change. Sometimes when I do a water change the tank changes by a degree.

[OneReef]

I always throw a heater in my mixing tub to get the mix water temp pretty close to my tank temp.

[lucas73]

I heat my my RO/DI water to match tank temp,and then add my salt mix to it and let mix for 24 to 48 hours before performing my water change.

[ReefWreak]

Im in FL and keep my NSW from the LFS in the garage, so if anything, I bring it in the house to cool it off :p

I don't think an occasional drop of 2 degrees is what's preventing your tank from doing well.... Get new test kits, do some different tests, test your waterchange water, start running GFO, upgrade your skimmer, feed less, etc etc etc.

[will16]

I also heat my water. Have a heater in with a power head for mixing.

[ambaratur]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175133#post15175133 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lucas73
I heat my my RO/DI water to match tank temp,and then add my salt mix to it and let mix for 24 to 48 hours before performing my water change.

I do the exact same thing.

[mille239]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15174752#post15174752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shrimplover
I have been frustrated for many years trying to figure out why our tank just doesn't take off. We have great water perameters and lighting, I'm grasping for any recommendations. Does anyone preheat their new water before a water change?
We have a large trashcan that we use for our fresh RO water. The basement temp is room temp or just cooler than room temp. We fill 5 gal buckets and dissolve Red Sea RO Salt just prior to siphoning the tank. It's 120 gal reef. Approx 3 weeks btwn water changes. Approx 9 gal out and 11 gal in. Siphon from main tank and add new (cold/room temp) water in sump. Top off also added to sump based on evaporation, usually 2 days. The overall tank temp will drop 2 degrees for less than half a day, from 81 to 79.
Is this enough to mess with anything?

9 gallons out, and 11 gallons in? Does this mean you are replacing 2 gallons of evaporation with salt water? If this is the case, I'd check your tank's specific gravity because it seems it would be increasing! maybe I'm missing something.

[builderguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175233#post15175233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mille239
9 gallons out, and 11 gallons in? Does this mean you are replacing 2 gallons of evaporation with salt water? If this is the case, I'd check your tank's specific gravity because it seems it would be increasing! maybe I'm missing something.

I agree...you're really skewing your salinity if you're doing this...should be the same out as in and evaporation replaced with Fresh RO water....SALT DOES NOT EVAPORATE so you replace evaporation with freshwater NOT saltwater.

As for the heat thing...yes I have a heater and a pump in my trashcan.

Also you should never use freshly mixed saltwater, it should have a pump in it for circulation for at least 24 hours before use. This will also have the benefit of aerating the RO/DI water which will have had the oxygen stripped out in the filtration process. Oxygen levels are often overlooked in our aquariums.

[shrimplover]

Thank you!
I will certainly try mixing my salt water a day prior to water change and maybe bringing the buckets from the basement sooner to warm another couple of degrees.
As far as 9 out and 11 in... my salinity has been very stable. I mix my replacement water a little more diluted to allow for the replacement of the evaporated water. I usually don't top off the day before a water change.

[builderguy]

What are you using to measure Salinity? Hopefully a properly calibrated refractometer.

[ed102475]

As far as 9 out and 11 in... my salinity has been very stable. I mix my replacement water a little more diluted to allow for the replacement of the evaporated water. I usually don't top off the day before a water change

I think you would be better of with a ATO.Keep the salinity same in and out.JMO

I don't heat my water I'm in FL. 1-3 degree. temp swing is normal.IMO

[shrimplover]

I'm using a regular hydrometer. I'm afraid to ask... what should I use? Is the accuracy really better? Will my livestock really feel the benefit of being spot on? Currently I see little to no variation from day to day, week to week. I'm trying to get QT ready so I know that the needle does move to indicate a difference between tanks.

[HumbleLobster]

You say that all parameters are spot on, what are your parameters? And a hydrometer will slowly accumulate deposits on its arm causing it to (usually) read lower than the actual salinity in the system. A refractometer had be had for $40 new, and when you consider the overall health of the system its a good investment.

And as far as being spot on, it does matter for corals and other inverts. They can't osmoregulate like fish can, and thus the resulting pressure in their cells causes stress to the them.

[builderguy]

A Hydrometer is not even close to accurate. You have a good size system, invest in a refractometer and get some pinpoint calibration fluid that they use for their electronic salinity monitor to dial-in the refractometer...using RO/DI per instructions is not accurate.

[andrewk529]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175659#post15175659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HumbleLobster
You say that all parameters are spot on, what are your parameters? And a hydrometer will slowly accumulate deposits on its arm causing it to (usually) read lower than the actual salinity in the system.

if you follow the directions which come with hydrometers and soak it in vinegar once a week you are fine and to answer the thread question i do heat my water to make sure its around the same temp as my tank

[andrewk529]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175843#post15175843 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by andrewk529
if you follow the directions which come with hydrometers and soak it in vinegar once a week and wash it after each use you are fine and to answer the thread question i do heat my water to make sure its around the same temp as my tank

[lucas73]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15175754#post15175754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by builderguy
A Hydrometer is not even close to accurate. You have a good size system, invest in a refractometer and get some pinpoint calibration fluid that they use for their electronic salinity monitor to dial-in the refractometer...using RO/DI per instructions is not accurate.

+1
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18718

[firemedic0135]

The refracometer is a good idea. I would recommend doing larger water changes if only changing once every 3 weeks.
I also do not heat my water for changes.
Might I ask how often do you feed?
How many fish do you have(heavy or light bioload)?
What kind of corals do you have?
How much skimmate does the urchin pull daily?
Do you run carbon at times?
What does your reef not do that you want it to?

[shrimplover]

Our tank has changed direction over the last couple of months; We had a nasty case of ich that wiped the slate clean. One sole survivor, any ugly damsel that we never should have added, I tore apart the rock and got him out. We added just one more fish, Atlantic Blue Tang, then 4 years of no death turned into 6 weeks of torture. We were focused on the fish and had a few polyps and leathers just to decorate. The large damsel and Trigger would carry anything new to the front corner of the tank, so we quit trying.

Now we have:
5 chromis, 2 firefish, 1 solar fairy
2 skunk cleaners, 1 coral banded
2 xenia, 2 colt corals, finger leather
star polyps, mushrooms, zoanthids
Nothing fancy but we'd like to see what we can do with our focus on corals, a few smaller fish just to be there.
We feed twice a day, a few pellets of Spectra Thera+A for the wrasse and firefish and a small pinch of flake for the chromis. My husband has a few additives for the corals that he rotates 2 or 3 times per week.
The skimmer pulls out about half a cup of green/brown waste per week. We use ChemiPure in the sump all of the time.
We would like to have a variety of corals. We're still undecided as to which ones, it would be nice to have a local group to discuss where to find good stuff. We have our local place but the staff only has one guy that really knows and he's not always in the mood to teach. So I'm logged in with you guys!! I had an acct long ago but all of the discussions were way over my head. I still try to keep it simple but keep getting pulled in deeper and deeper ...
Thank you for all of your advice

[spleify]

I would also recommend getting a refractometer.
Before doing a water change, do your top of so your water level is where it needs to be. Then do your 11 out and 11 in, at the same SG that your tank is at.
Mix(and IMO) heat and aerate your water at least 24 hours prior to your water change. If you are mixing in 5 gal buckets, do your self a favor and get a second brute garbage can so you can just mix it all up in one container and heat it all at once. I have a heater, two power heads and an air stone in my salt bucket, and mix it WELL in advance of my water changes.

And like mentioned what exactly are your params?

[luther1200]

I would also consider bumping up the water changes a bit.

I have never heated my WC water.

[crooks]

Scroll down to Reef Club Forums under the sponsors section and you should be able to find a club in your area to help you.

[firemedic0135]

I am NO EXPERT but I read on WWM that star polyps/zoa's/mushrooms/leathers can be quite toxic towards each other.They recommended 10% weekly(which is what I follow) water changes.
They say that the star polyp is the most toxic organism in our reef tanks and can poison the water for other softies.
IMO more frequent water changes would be in order.I would change 10 gallons weekly after a 25 gal change one week.Watch for progress then and make further adjustments.
I have the same corals you have in my new 90g and they are growing like crazy.They never did anything either until I started keeping my water changed more often.