View Full Version : stray voltage, how much is too much?
okkiedokki
06/30/2009, 10:43 AM
I've been having some issues with my tank lately and one theory I have was maybe I just have a lot of stray voltage in my tank. I did a search and all I could find was how to use a voltmeter and not how much is too much.
Anyway here is what I have after I measured. With everything running I was at 4V or 5V. My 250 watt stealth heater was at 2V, my Maxijet 1200 pump I use as a return pump for my 50g was at 1V. Everything else was around or less then 0.5V.
Is that too much for a tank?
cabrego
06/30/2009, 12:04 PM
If you get a grounding probe you will have no voltage. Anything you can feel is to much IMO, do you get zapped?
okkiedokki
06/30/2009, 04:14 PM
I have never been zapped. I was just wondering because my tank issue is any store bought fish, or snail dies while any fish or snail i buy off a local reefer lives for a very long time.
My local fish store (best one in town) tested my water many many times and they says I have unusually pristine water in my tank so either it's stray voltage or some sort of disease.
gabbagabbawill
06/30/2009, 04:52 PM
I would look for some other cause for your fish dying... still, you can get a ground probe, they are cheap. I think they are a must for a tank running a lot of equipment and would not go without one.
Shablin
06/30/2009, 08:26 PM
I just had a heater go and cause a current in my tank; Id hate to think what would have happened without my grounding probe!
If you have stray current in your tank, corals dont open fully; All my Xenia, leathers fully closed and LPS, clams and worms were partly closed
If new additions are dying, Id test the water myself and look for other reasons why.
MeReefBeef
06/30/2009, 09:06 PM
What is this stray voltage some of you reefers speak about? Sounds more like you're measuring a small bundle of static charge than "stray voltage". Also, voltage is not dangerous, its the amount of current. There can be thousands of voltage potential between two points, and as long as there is no current, no harm done.
jdieck
06/30/2009, 09:13 PM
That level of voltage is not an issue at all. If you install a grounding probe insure your equipment is conected to GFCIs.
Shablin
06/30/2009, 09:33 PM
error
Shablin
06/30/2009, 09:37 PM
Of course all circuits should have GFIs, but please explain why you need a GFCI if you have a grounding probe. Wont the gfi just trip if there is a problem in the circuit? THe ground still goes to the same place the same way with or without a GFI right?? Id think (Im no expert) that if you dont have a GFI the ground would be more important. How does the GFI work (breaks the circuit to ground or something right??)
BTW my GFI never tripped but I couldn't feel any charge when my heater went (untill I put it in my DI bucket...)
jdieck
06/30/2009, 10:23 PM
As in all of this posts I would state that anything I say shall not be construed as accurate even if it is and that you shall consult a licenced electrician as all cases have particular diferences and generalities may not apply.
The safe way is to have a functioning monthly tested GFCI and a ground probe.
A GFCI works by comparing the amount of current going in with the amount of current going out of the circuit. When it detects a difference it will assume that the current is leaking to ground and will trip with a difference of only 5 milliamps in just a few thousands of a second.
Usually given the materials of construction, an aquarium is insulated from ground so even with a GFCI (With no grounding probe) if there is a short to water it may not trip as current has no way to go to ground and create the unbalance necesary to trip the GFCI until you happen to touch the electrified water then you become the path to ground that makes the GFCI trip. If the GFCI is faulty you may be in trouble.
With the GFCI providing for a path to ground then the GFCI will trip saving you from the shock.
Without a GFCI IMO having a ground probe may have more risk involved than not having any.
See, the degree to which you are shocked depends on how well you are grounded when you close the circut to a live line or electrified conducting agent like salt water.
With a grounding probe there is a couple of potentialy very risky situations.
a) If you touch an electrified fixture (pump casing, metalic hood or reflector) while working in the water, because of the water will be perfectly grounded then the shock will be maximum with potential fatal consequences. Without a probe you will still be shocked but if you are lucky by not being perfectly grounded (wearing rubber sneakers, standing on a wooden ladder or wooden floor or on a dry floor) your shock may not be enough to kill you as if you were perfectly grounded.
b) If you have a probe and no GFCI and there is a short circuit with yout heater or any other submerged device, the breaker will not trip until the current is as high as 15 to 20 amps depending on the circuit. By the time the breaker trips there is a good chance that the short could have created a fire and the high current has killed everything in the tank and the shorted device released toxic chemicals from the burn (Oils, melted plastics, windings barnish and copper and copper sulfate)
Without the probe, a short circuit may shock you bad but as I mentioned may not kill you if you are lucky not to be perfectly grounded adn a short circuit may not generate a current high enough to trigger the breaker but still high enough for sparks to vreate a fire.
In summary, for safety sake, install probe and GFCI and insure the GFCI is operational by testing them at least once a month as unfortunately, GFCIs can become easily unreliable over time.
jdieck
06/30/2009, 10:39 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15285176#post15285176 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shablin
BTW my GFI never tripped but I couldn't feel any charge when my heater went (untill I put it in my DI bucket...#
There are several scenarios:
It is unlikely but possible that the short circuit in the heater went from neutral to hot #specially with no ground in the tank# so the GFCI did not detected a current difference between incoming and outgoing current so it did not trip.
It is also possible that the GFCI may have not been perfectly functional.
It could have been that you were not grounded when touched the aquarium water so you did not get a shock but you were partially grounded when touching the RO/DI. A thing to notice here is that pure water has a very high resistance so it can be considered non conductive #18 megohm) so I can say that your RO/DI might not be perfectly pure either.
It could also be that when moving the heater from the tank to the RO/DI a shift in the wire or internal electric components may have changed the nature and the characteristics of the short.
In any case it is good and I am glad it was a minor incident without serious consequences for you.
gabbagabbawill
07/01/2009, 12:09 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15284980#post15284980 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeReefBeef
voltage is not dangerous, its the amount of current. There can be thousands of voltage potential between two points, and as long as there is no current, no harm done.
I don't think that stray voltage should be trivialized like this... When was the last time you measured "current" in anything? Do you even know HOW to measure current?
Did you know that ventricular fibrillation in humans can happen with as low as 60 mA of current?
I think the OP's problem is something other than stray voltage; 4V is not enough to cause that much damage short term.
okkiedokki
07/01/2009, 12:51 AM
Thanks for the replies everyone. I didn't really think that stray voltage was the problem, I just needed to verify that with everyone else. My corals look better then they ever have, same with my fish that I've either had for years or gotten from other reefers.
I'll have to work on a new theory on why my store bought fish and snails die overnight.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that yes my tank is hooked up to gfcis and I've tested them and they do pop with my tester.
jdieck
07/01/2009, 01:27 AM
The one thing that keeps comming into my mind is acclimation. Many LFS maintain very low salinity in comparison with other reefers.
okkiedokki
07/01/2009, 02:11 AM
As far as acclimation I've been floating the fish and snails for a half hour, then drip acclimating him in a bucket for an additional 2 hours. Then in the most recent cases, i've bought a mimic tang and a kole tang on seperate occasions and after they get put into my tank they go to town on my rocks. Then over night I see them laying on their side on the sand breathing very heavy with their mouth open.
I know my fish aren't attacking them because I removed them from the tank. And my LFS has tested my water multiple times and it's all come out very clean. We think their might be some sort of virus or something in my tank, so I'm now thinking of trying to keep my tank fishless for about two months and then try another fish after the two month period before i put my fish back in. If it is a virus then I'm thinking it will die out in two months without fish in the tank.
jdieck
07/01/2009, 02:20 AM
But if it is a virus why you do not have issues with other reefer's fish? Also usually a virus will afect one species but why fish and snails and others?
It got to be environmental, in other words some kind of contamination then. Thisk of potential thinks we can not test for (Volatile organics and such)
okkiedokki
07/01/2009, 02:55 AM
I was just under the assumption that the other fish have grown immune to it. Also, what's Thisk?
jdieck
07/01/2009, 06:12 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15285991#post15285991 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by okkiedokki
I was just under the assumption that the other fish have grown immune to it. Also, what's Thisk?
Fas fingers :D
I think I wanted to type Risk of potential things...
MeReefBeef
07/01/2009, 06:29 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15285759#post15285759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gabbagabbawill
I don't think that stray voltage should be trivialized like this... When was the last time you measured "current" in anything? Do you even know HOW to measure current?
No one has explained what the concept of stray voltage is to me yet =(
First off, if you're probing two random points in a fish tank, and measuring "stray voltage", this is highly inaccurate because of how easily resistance changes based on the shape of the medium. Essentially, just by moving the probes you would be changing voltage.
Measuring current requires an ammeter, attached in series to whatever you're trying to measure. In this case, you should not be able to measure any. If you end up measuring some, I supposed you could call it "stray current" and you would have a problem.
P.S. I just graduated with an Electrical Engineering degree with emphasis on electromagnetic theory.
okkiedokki
07/01/2009, 06:43 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15286230#post15286230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeReefBeef
No one has explained what the concept of stray voltage is to me yet =(
First off, if you're probing two random points in a fish tank, and measuring "stray voltage", this is highly inaccurate because of how easily resistance changes based on the shape of the medium. Essentially, just by moving the probes you would be changing voltage.
Measuring current requires an ammeter, attached in series to whatever you're trying to measure. In this case, you should not be able to measure any. If you end up measuring some, I supposed you could call it "stray current" and you would have a problem.
P.S. I just graduated with an Electrical Engineering degree with emphasis on electromagnetic theory.
Well, i don't know much but from what I've read since we have mechanical equipment in our tank it will always produce some electricity in our tank. From the searching I did here I saw some discussion that the propellers from pumps will produce some minor amounts of electricity from the spinning it does in the water. From what I assume since it's low amounts of electricity in the gfci won't pop. Since the gfci measures changes in current and pops my guess is higher amperage and higher volts would make it pop. Now when I measured the voltage in my tank I used a voltmeter by putting the red probe in the water and the black probe in the ground of my gfci.
I hope I'm not wrong, maybe someone can chime in to verify if I am correct or correct me. I don't mean to lead anyone in the wrong direction.
MeReefBeef
07/01/2009, 06:53 AM
In that case you're measuring the difference in voltage potential between the water and gfci. You will get a reading there, as the gfci is hooked up to other electrical devices. That voltage difference will not necessarily mean there's a current in the water as there should be insulation on all those devices. That is a separate circuit. Once again, however, voltage is never dangerous, unless there is current, which can be deadly in even relatively small amounts.
cabrego
07/01/2009, 08:03 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15286297#post15286297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeReefBeef
In that case you're measuring the difference in voltage potential between the water and gfci. You will get a reading there, as the gfci is hooked up to other electrical devices. That voltage difference will not necessarily mean there's a current in the water as there should be insulation on all those devices. That is a separate circuit. Once again, however, voltage is never dangerous, unless there is current, which can be deadly in even relatively small amounts.
MeReefBeef,
You say voltage is never dangerous, yet voltage and current and voltage are closely linked to each other. While it is true, the danger lies with the current transmitted when a circuit is grounded. I challenge you to shock someone without the help of a voltage source.
One example that comes to my mind is a case where I measred the voltage, or potential difference between (if you would like to be technical), between my tank water and ground (which happend to by my reflector hood). At one point I was actually measuring something like 70 V. Often, I could move rocks around with no issues, in fact I had no idea there was this much voltage in the tank until one day I was moving rocks around and as my arm was half way in the tank my elbow was touch the reflector.
ZAPP!!!!
Which I think is your point. The fact that voltage is in the tank is technically not the "DANGER", yet I think it can be mis interpreted by some readers primarily wondering if there system is safe. Thus, motivation for my first simple post.
jdieck,
While I think your statements about the problems with using a grounding probe are compelling, and I agree that a grounding should be used in conjunction with GFCI circuits, I would like to offer a clarification / comment, about your comment
QUOTE]Without a GFCI IMO having a ground probe may have more risk involved than not having any.
a) If you touch an electrified fixture (pump casing, metalic hood or reflector) while working in the water, because of the water will be perfectly grounded then the shock will be maximum with potential fatal consequences.[/QUOTE]
This is true only for cases when electrified units are NOT submerged in water (e.g., your metallic hood or reflector examples are good). In the case of a submerged Pump, heater, etc., with a grounding probe in place, the current has no reason to travel through you to get to ground.
MeReefBeef
07/01/2009, 08:29 AM
Cabrego,
I agree with what you said, but just to further clarify. You were zapped because you created a pathway between two different voltage potentials hence inducing current. However, without creating said pathway, everything would be ok. Naturally, any system operating with a huge power supply will more than likely have parts in the system with huge voltage potentials (that you can measure). This does not necessarily mean that there will be a danger, unless you create a pathway for current. Just check all your equipment everyone!
gabbagabbawill
07/01/2009, 08:45 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15286230#post15286230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeReefBeef
No one has explained what the concept of stray voltage is to me yet =(
See my post here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15142593#post15142593
and quoted here: Stray Voltage by definition is the occurrence of voltage between two objects that should not have any voltage difference between them. In this case, the two objects we speak of are the Aquarium Water and Earth Ground.
I have done some thinking about this and I believe that I have rationalized the reasons to have a ground probe;
First, I believe that we are essentially creating a ground plane or system ground with the aquarium water itself.
If you go with the assumption that all electrical devices with an AC mains are relative to an earth ground, then the ground plane in the aquarium is actually a floating ground UNLESS it is electrically connected to the Earth Ground.
With a floating ground, it is possible to have a ground potential or voltage difference with reference to Earth Ground.
Because water IS a conductor, it is subject to electromagnetic induction that is caused by the changing magnetic fields created by the pumps, heaters, lighting and other electrical devices that are in close proximity to the water. This is one place where the voltage difference between the aquarium's ground plane and the Earth Ground comes from (the other source of stray voltage is a failed device, heater, pump, etc).
In order rid ourselves of this induced voltage, we must ground the aquarium water to Earth ground, completing and connecting the circuit that we have created (the entire aquarium system is, in effect, an electrical circuit).
If you combine this with a GFCI and/or circuit breaker, then it will be possible to detect and immediately remedy a fault within this circuit by removing the mains voltage, thus greatly lowering the risk of electrocution or fire.
Some definitions, most of which below, I have copied from Wikipedia for reference:
Earth Ground - In electrical engineering, ground or earth may be the reference point in an electrical circuit from which other voltages are measured, or a common return path for electric current, or a direct physical connection to the Earth.
Ground Plane - In electrical engineering, a ground plane is an electrically conductive surface.
Floating Ground - A system ground that is not actually connected to Earth ground.
System Ground - The ground plane within a circuit that may or may not be connected to an earth ground.
Ground Potential - The difference in Voltage between the System Ground and Earth Ground.
Electromagnetic induction - The production of voltage across a conductor situated in a changing magnetic field or a conductor moving through a stationary magnetic field.
gabbagabbawill
07/01/2009, 08:58 AM
Based on all of the assumptions in my post, if we are in fact creating a system ground, then all equipment should also be grounded to this ground plane as well. A lighting hood or ballast that is grounded, should be grounded to the same earth ground as the tank. If it is not on the same ground plane, this could cause a voltage potential and leave you with the possibility of electric shock.
The voltage vs. current argument is used a lot, but normally misused in this argument. First, to have voltage you must have current. You cannot have one without the other. See ohm's law:
V=IR
Where:
V=Volts
I=Current
R=Resistance
If I=0, then no matter what R equals, you will have 0 Volts. In order to have a number greater than Zero Volts, you must have BOTH current and resistance equal to any value above Zero.
jdieck
07/01/2009, 11:00 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15286574#post15286574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cabrego
jdieck,
While I think your statements about the problems with using a grounding probe are compelling, and I agree that a grounding should be used in conjunction with GFCI circuits, I would like to offer a clarification / comment, about your comment
QUOTE]Without a GFCI IMO having a ground probe may have more risk involved than not having any.
a) If you touch an electrified fixture (pump casing, metalic hood or reflector) while working in the water, because of the water will be perfectly grounded then the shock will be maximum with potential fatal consequences.
This is true only for cases when electrified units are NOT submerged in water (e.g., your metallic hood or reflector examples are good). In the case of a submerged Pump, heater, etc., with a grounding probe in place, the current has no reason to travel through you to get to ground. [/QUOTE]
That is right cabrego, may be I did not explain it well trying to define the two cases.
In the first case the equipment out of the water you get a good zap. In the second it is the situation I tried to describe were a short circuit can be created only protected by the breaker which will require very high current to trip and potentially creating a fire.
gabbagabbawill
07/01/2009, 12:27 PM
If the hood is grounded and the water is grounded to the same earth ground, there is no chance of shock! Almost every time someone gets shocked by touching the water and hood at the same time, either the water is not grounded, or the hood is not properly grounded.
Ground your water!
Ground those hoods!
Shablin
07/01/2009, 08:05 PM
Thanks for the flood of info;
As to my original question (why not to use a grounding probe with a GFI) in layman's terms there is a risk of causing the circiut breaker (or fuse) not to function properly thereby potentially increasing the risk of electrical fire.
jdieck
07/01/2009, 08:56 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15290516#post15290516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shablin
Thanks for the flood of info;
As to my original question (why not to use a grounding probe with a GFI) in layman's terms there is a risk of causing the circiut breaker (or fuse) not to function properly thereby potentially increasing the risk of electrical fire.
The right question is why to use a GFCI with a ground probe :D
Also in addition to the grounding probe it is a best practice as gabbaga mentions to also ground all devices with a metalic shell, hood, carcass etc that can be subject to a short circuit.
Shablin
07/01/2009, 09:27 PM
Thanks again;
BTW, my RO water is less than 10 on my TDS meter; I only got a tingle, not anything too electrifying. I cant imagine how much current was oozing from that heater and again how valuable that grounding probe is! (I also test my GFI frequently - its about 7 yrs old)
jdieck
07/01/2009, 10:38 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15291021#post15291021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shablin
Thanks again;
BTW, my RO water is less than 10 on my TDS meter; I only got a tingle, not anything too electrifying. I cant imagine how much current was oozing from that heater and again how valuable that grounding probe is! (I also test my GFI frequently - its about 7 yrs old)
Are you using DI resin filters? if so it shall be zero TDS.
MeReefBeef
07/02/2009, 04:56 AM
Gabba, I'm sorry but that is abuse of Ohm's law. A voltage potential can be taken from any two points, regardless of whether there's actual current between them. If you use a voltmeter to measure, say where current is going into your lights and a point in the water of your tank you would measure a voltage, and create a short to the water in your tank. You have thus created a parallel resistance (the voltmeter) which is where some current will run. There is a voltage difference between those two points, but not necessarily current running between them (w/o the voltmeter probing).
Another example would be the voltage potential between the sky and the earth. There is usually a voltage difference between the two, however, until the potential reaches high enough for it to counter the resistivity between the two (the air), we will not see current (lightning).
This is precisely why I'm bringing this up in the first place. A presence of voltage does not entail a presence of current at all, especially since all your electric devices should have insulation. If you had some kind of a wire that was not insulated, the high conductivity would quickly short out all your electronics.
What you mention about electromagnetic induction is possible, however, grounding the system won't help in that case, as your electronics are a SEPARATE system from the water in your tank. In other words, the water is being affected by the electronics from induced magnetic fields, but once again it is NOT dissipating any power hence, there should be no current in there, EVEN if you measure a voltage between the gfci and water.
gabbagabbawill
07/02/2009, 12:56 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15292072#post15292072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MeReefBeef
Gabba, I'm sorry but that is abuse of Ohm's law. A voltage potential can be taken from any two points, regardless of whether there's actual current between them. If you use a voltmeter to measure, say where current is going into your lights and a point in the water of your tank you would measure a voltage, and create a short to the water in your tank. You have thus created a parallel resistance (the voltmeter) which is where some current will run. There is a voltage difference between those two points, but not necessarily current running between them (w/o the voltmeter probing).
Another example would be the voltage potential between the sky and the earth. There is usually a voltage difference between the two, however, until the potential reaches high enough for it to counter the resistivity between the two (the air), we will not see current (lightning).
This is precisely why I'm bringing this up in the first place. A presence of voltage does not entail a presence of current at all, especially since all your electric devices should have insulation. If you had some kind of a wire that was not insulated, the high conductivity would quickly short out all your electronics.
I don't disagree with your presumptions. You are correct in your example using the sky and earth as having a different voltage potential. The best answer I could find as to the resistance of dry air is 4 x 10^13 ohm meters at sea level, a near infinite resistance, or rather an insulator.
Because air is an insulator and not a resistor, there is not enough voltage or current to ionize the air molecules and create any flow of electrons. With no flow of electrons, there is no current, just like your example of the hood over the tank water.
The fact is, these two planes are electrically isolated unless there is a contact point between the two. If there is never any interaction between the two points, then ANY voltage measurement is arbitrary and meaningless.
Lightning forms when the voltage potential becomes so great that the air molecules ionize to conduct the voltage to ground (earth). Then, there IS current flow! Up until that point, there are really two 0V references, or two isolated ground planes. One in the sky and one on earth. When air molecules ionize and form a path to ground, there becomes a current flow of this voltage conducting across its surface. Up until that point occurs, all voltage differences are arbitrary.
To put it another way, in an electrically conductive circuit, voltage is normally measured with reference to ground.
If there is a voltage difference between a light hood and ground and there is a voltage difference between the tank water and ground, then voltage potentials DO exist. For this voltage to exist, there MUST be some measurable current flowing TO the hood or water itself. The fact is, if your lighting hood has voltage on it, there is current flowing to that hood from some source with respect to its own ground.
You can be assured that you will have detectable current flow when these two planes become electrically connected, like when you stick your arm in the tank water and touch the hood at the same time.
What we want is to remove these voltage potentials.
When I was using ohm's law before, I was speaking of electricity within a circuit. This statement: "If I=0, then no matter what R equals, you will have 0 Volts. In order to have a number greater than Zero Volts, you must have BOTH current and resistance equal to any value above Zero." is true mathematically for a given electrically connected circuit, where voltage is measured with reference to 0V or ground within that circuit. All voltage potentials outside of that are arbitrary until they become connected to the circuit. I do not believe this is an "abuse of ohm's law", because it breaks it down to the basics, and that is what this law is there for, and everything electrically speaking is based on.
Properly grounding your devices AND the tank water completes the path to earth ground, leaving you with zero stray voltage and zero voltage potentials between all electrically connected equipment and the water (or near zero if you want to discuss chemical interactions of metals, but for our purposes, it's zero).
What you mention about electromagnetic induction is possible, however, grounding the system won't help in that case, as your electronics are a SEPARATE system from the water in your tank. In other words, the water is being affected by the electronics from induced magnetic fields, but once again it is NOT dissipating any power hence, there should be no current in there, EVEN if you measure a voltage between the gfci and water.
How will it NOT help? If there is a voltage potential from induced voltage, what happens when you stick your grounded arm in the tank, or to another device like the light hood that IS grounded while touching saltwater, or you have salt creep that completes an electrically conductive path? Like I said before, voltage measurements are arbitrary until there is a path for it to flow. Grounding everything removes these potential paths for current flow, and helps in all of these cases, because it removes the potential for voltage to exist with reference to itself.
What we are talking about here is creating a system ground that everything should live on. Earth is the ground that everything should be referenced off of. Not the sky or some arbitrary isolated 0V. That is the potential for danger in all cases!
pjewett
07/02/2009, 01:01 PM
wow, can't believe this is being debated.
ground probe - $15-20
GFCI outlets you can plug into your standard ones - $25 each
preventing a possibly violent and embarrassing death for as little as $40 plus tax?
priceless.
just buy it.
gabbagabbawill
07/02/2009, 01:40 PM
It's a healthy debate/ discussion. I don't think that we disagree... we're just coming to terms. It certainly made me have to think a little to work around MrReefBeef's concepts... but I think I made my point clear.
Which is pretty much the same as yours:
ground probe - $15-20
GFCI outlets you can plug into your standard ones - $25 each
preventing a possibly violent and embarrassing death for as little as $40 plus tax?
priceless.
just buy it.
lol.
Shablin
07/02/2009, 08:09 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15291402#post15291402 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
Are you using DI resin filters? if so it shall be zero TDS.
I presently am resinless in my DI but have a batch ready to load; prefilter TDS is about 180 in our well water.......thats a different discussion.
jdieck
07/03/2009, 09:53 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15296296#post15296296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shablin
I presently am resinless in my DI but have a batch ready to load; prefilter TDS is about 180 in our well water.......thats a different discussion.
:thumbsup:
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