Glueing PVC into Bulkheads.

[Reefer2727]

Do most people glue there pipe into the bulk head or do most thread? I was planning on glueing. I assume once they are glued on they are there.

Do they get cut off if changes are needed?

[billdogg]

i prefer threaded bulkheads for that very reason. once you glue it, the bulkhead is trashed. if you want or need to change anything you then must change the bulkhead too.

[boilermaker1]

If you use glue in bulkheads, glue a threaded union directly into the bulkhead if you have room. The only time I use the glue in bulkheads is when space contraints just wont allow for the screw in ones.

[Reefer2727]

I was planning on glueing. Glad I inquired. Looks like I need to pick up some threaded 1" bulkheads. My setup is the three drain 'Bean Animal' design. What do I need to get to fit into the threaded bulkhead? A threaded coupling or something of that nature? The tank will be up against the wall so I want as short a run to my T going down as possible.

Is the threaded bulkhead route need alot of space? As is stands, I am out behind the tank about 5.5".

Any advice would be great.

Thanks

[Reefer2727]

Also, my plumbing is 1". So I will have a slip elbow into the 1" thread style bulkhead on the inside of the overflow box. Then what do I put into the threads. From here I need to go to a T as soon as I can.

Thanks

[Reefer2727]

Or can I have a slip elbow on the inside if it i threaded??

[boilermaker1]

You should be able to get a screw in elbow. Stores may call it a "spigot" fitting.
Here ya go...
http://www.glass-holes.com/product.sc?categoryId=23&productId=57

[Reefer2727]

Thanks Boilermaker.

I am wondering how much space is needed to get to the T using a threaded bulkhead. I want the tank as close to the wall as possible so perhaps glueing may be a better option.

Anyone?

[boilermaker1]

I think you're looking at 1/2" difference, at a maximum between the threaded street elbow and the glue in ones. You should be able to screw the fitting into the bulkhead and then mount it, and I wouldnt expect you to need to remove the fitting once its in (it wouldnt be easy to remove it anyways). If you want some sort of removable connection, put the 90 in, then add a union fitting to the line. Buy the "short" bulkheads and you should be able to get it pretty close to the wall. But what are you doing with the T fitting?
I think you'll need to just dry fit it all in place before you set the whole thing up.

[kryppy]

I wrap teflon tape around the pipe and jam it in real good. With bulkheads it sometimes takes half a roll...

They never leak that way, but can get pulled out if it is plumbed funny.. I even use it for pressure pipes so I can change things easily.

[kryppy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15359493#post15359493 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefer2727
Thanks Boilermaker.

I am wondering how much space is needed to get to the T using a threaded bulkhead. I want the tank as close to the wall as possible so perhaps glueing may be a better option.

Anyone?


The threads and the male adaptor will add way too much space. I would probably glue it if it were going inside and was never going to move or change. You can butt the T up to the bulkhead.

Best to get one with threads inside the tank, and slip where you plumb it.

That is how I do all mine anyway. Good luck.

[Reefer2727]

I am good for inside the overflow box. I think I have room to turn the elbows.

I am using the T fitting for my drain system. My three drains will have a T in the line just after the bulkhead on the back of my tank. Then they are capped above the T and below the T goes to the sump. At this point, I was just going to glue a short piece of pvc to mate the bulkhead and the T.

Also, below the T, I have a union in each line for a spot to take them apart.

So, if I use threaded. I will need to mate the bulkhead to the T as short as possible. So what so I put into the bulkhead? The T that this goes to is 1". (Will be glued. Not threaded on this end).

[Reefer2727]

Thanks Kryppy,

I wanted to confirm that the threaded route would add to much space. I am going to stick with my original glueing plan.

I just hope that I never have an issue that necessitates cutting them off. Especially since they will be very hard to get at behind the tank.
I will not butt them up completely to the T. I will leave a little .5" piece of exposed pvc. Just enough room for the hacksaw to slip in!

Thanks again

[kryppy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15359616#post15359616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefer2727
I am good for inside the overflow box. I think I have room to turn the elbows.

I am using the T fitting for my drain system. My three drains will have a T in the line just after the bulkhead on the back of my tank. Then they are capped above the T and below the T goes to the sump. At this point, I was just going to glue a short piece of pvc to mate the bulkhead and the T.

Also, below the T, I have a union in each line for a spot to take them apart.

So, if I use threaded. I will need to mate the bulkhead to the T as short as possible. So what so I put into the bulkhead? The T that this goes to is 1". (Will be glued. Not threaded on this end).



I have basically the same thing you do, and like I said, I used slip fittings and wrapped the pipe with teflon tape. It does not leak a drop or get salt creep, unlike every single threaded fitting I own does.


Why are you capping the top of the T? Seems like it might make a nice vent stack.

Might as well use a street 90 like the other guy said if you don't really need the T.

[kryppy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15359669#post15359669 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefer2727
Thanks Kryppy,

I wanted to confirm that the threaded route would add to much space. I am going to stick with my original glueing plan.

I just hope that I never have an issue that necessitates cutting them off. Especially since they will be very hard to get at behind the tank.
I will not butt them up completely to the T. I will leave a little .5" piece of exposed pvc. Just enough room for the hacksaw to slip in!

Thanks again


In the worst case, you cut off the old pipe and use the outside threads for new plumbing.

Actually, the worst case involves cutting the pipe and replacing the bulkhead. Usually that is easy, and if you are using cheap black ones and not sch 80 you might just find out if you crank the nut to tight. Remember, they just need to be finger tight in most cases!!! I have broke a few bulkhead nuts at the end of plumbing something and it SUCKS if you have glued it. Remember the tape...lol

Good luck.

[Reefer2727]

The design for the drains is the Bean Animal. One of the three drains will be vented. One will be used as only an emergency. The other will be capped and have a valve in that line.

So Kryppy,

You basically have a piece of pvc dry fitted (with teflon tape) into the bulkhead? IS it glued on the other side where it meets the T?

Thanks

[kryppy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15360382#post15360382 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefer2727
The design for the drains is the Bean Animal. One of the three drains will be vented. One will be used as only an emergency. The other will be capped and have a valve in that line.

So Kryppy,

You basically have a piece of pvc dry fitted (with teflon tape) into the bulkhead? IS it glued on the other side where it meets the T?

Thanks


Correct. I do all my drains like this, and some pressure lines. No glue unless I consider the plumbing, 'structural'.

Think about how hard it can be to get dry fittings apart..lol, the teflon tape actually makes it easier to get them apart and stops any leaks.

Bulkheads are typically a bit larger and take more tape, but the payoff when you can pull it apart for changes is priceless.