Algal genus Spotlight: Bryopsis "hair algae"

[Paul B]

I promise that the Clorox bomb will work.

Yes it will but be sure to only use "Regular" Clorox, no scents, fragrances, colors, easy pour or anything like that. I know for a fact that if you use "New Fresh Scent Clorox" you will kill all of your fish in a matter of seconds.
Don't ask.

[DeathWish302]

I know for a fact that if you use "New Fresh Scent Clorox" you will kill all of your fish in a matter of seconds.
Don't ask.

Paul, buddy..... Please tell me you don't know from experience?

I only use the manly unscented regular bleach. Who would have respect for a guy buying that foo-foo bleach while standing in line at Lowe's... I would buy groceries there if they sold them!

[1fishkeeper]

Yes it will but be sure to only use "Regular" Clorox, no scents, fragrances, colors, easy pour or anything like that. I know for a fact that if you use "New Fresh Scent Clorox" you will kill all of your fish in a matter of seconds.
Don't ask.

Oh yeah I know that one when I did some stuff to my freshwater tank. But I have been pulling out the rocks one by one and have been nuking it with Peroxide. It seems to be working other than I keep on seeing it pop up in my sand bed. I keep on pulling that up as I see it. On only have a couple of rocks that still have some one it. Just one or two chunks of it that I seem to have missed. So I will get them on my next round.

[1fishkeeper]

Well I have dosed my tank with Tech-M until it got to 1700. And I still have Bryopsis. The only ones that dont have it is the smaller rocks that I could take out and hit them with H2O2. Now I have seen it starting to grow in my sand and my back glass. Im not starting to be a happy camper right now. What are some of the other tricks that some of you have used that your hiding?

[PWRDrill]

Here's another vote for the Foxface rabbit fish. About 3 seconds after I placed him in my 125, he started going to town on the Bryopsis. I couldn't believe that he didn't go hide in a corner or something; just straight to work!

[nattarbox]

If there was ever a total nuclear war, the only thing left would be cockroaches and bryopsis.

I'm planning out a new tank, partly because I want to and partly because I have given up on eradicating this devil weed from my current tank. Obviously I want to move all my livestock over to the new system, but without transferring the bryopsis in the process.

I suppose a quarantine tank would be the only fully effective means for doing that? This whole thing started as one little strand coming in on a frag plug, and I've heard that even a few cells going through the digestive track of an animal can be enough to kickoff a new infestation.

[Elliott]

I gave up too after spending a great deal of time and money trying to eradicate Bryopsis. It went away after the first treatment with Kent Tech M but soon returned more aggressive and tolerant to it. A tank upgrade gave me the opportunity to eradicate it.

So, I broke the tank down, soaked the rock in diluted muriatic acid followed by drying in the Arizona sun for a week. I transferred the corals to a qt, tossing everything with Bryopsis on it and fish to a separate qt.

To my amazement the coral qt has grown Bryopsis in the sump! So far, the new DT with the treated LR has not developed Bryopsis however I would not be surprised if it did. However I am now dealing with high phosphate and nitrate leaching out from the LR from the dead biomass.

I guess if I would have soaked the rock in RO/DI with periodic water changes I could have removed much of it prior to setting the DT back up.

[nattarbox]

So you would up with bryopsis in the quarantine tank for corals that you thought were clear? That is my main concern about starting a new system. I've got a couple of nice colonies, so the options seem to be:

1. Move them to the new tank, risk having the same issue
2. Get rid of them (don't think I could do it)
3. Beat or somehow control the algae in the current tank.

I think I'm going to take one more serious stab at beating it before I start to consider the other options. I beat cyanobacteria, and a number other outbreaks in freshwater tanks.

I'm going to start with the magnesium, then phase in urchins and sea slugs. I had good luck with the slugs, but didn't buy them in large enough numbers, or replace them as they died (very short lifespan).

To arms! :headwallblue:

[Elliott]

I wish you luck :thumbsup:

[mccorry]

The Tech-M didn't touch my Byropsis, either. :(

Now I'm looking at possibly some kind of tang. I've heard that a Mimic Half Black Tang will eat filimentatious algae. Any input on this?

I'm getting tired of my tank looking like crap and having to pull algae every other day. Argh!

[nattarbox]

Got my magnesium test kit and some supplement in today. That test is some serious chemistry kid business! I ended up at 1000ppm two weeks after the last water change, a little lower than normal. I'm going to shoot for raising it about 25ppm every other day, with a target of 1800-2000ppm, as suggested by the various places that claim magnesium will inhibit bryopsis growth.

Assuming this shows any evidence of slowing growth, I'll bring in the sea slugs and maybe try out some urchins.

But first, I'm going to go to Burning Man and forget all about algae. :wildone:

[nattarbox]

Anyone tried a UV sterilizer as part of their arsenal? I used one effectively against green water (single cell algae) in a freshwater tank. I figure if byopsis fragments are breaking off during manual removal and staying viable, a little UV zapping might not hurt. My tank is small, so there are some cheap (>$50) options, figure it is worth a shot.

I'm on day six of magnesium dosing, adding 25g of Seachem Reef Advantage daily. That should be good for a 25ppm increase daily, but it is testing at about the level I started with, 1000ppm. I'll give it another week or so and then consider increasing the dose. I've noticed a visible increase in SPS growth (white edges on montipora) and coraline algae on the glass since I started adding the magnesium.

Also considering ditching the HoB filter for a canister, so I can increase the volume of chemical and biological media I run.

[nattarbox]

After 12 days of dosing, I'm testing at 1200ppm for magnesium. That is rising a little slower than I expected, but everything seems healthy in the tank so I plan on continuing at the same pace.

I'd like to say that, anecdotally at least, byropsis growth appears to have slowed somewhat. But I think that might just be because I've been paying increased attention to the tank since getting serious about eradicating it.

The lettuce sea slugs haven't been in stock at the place I normally order them from, but as soon as they are I plan on ordering at least a dozen.

[nattarbox]

Double post, sorry.

[nattarbox]

Alrighty, 12x Elysia crispata (green lettuce sea slugs) have been added. I dropped them directly on the largest patch of algae and they immediately grabbed a plate and hit the salad bar.

Also added 2x Lytechinus variegatus (pincushion urchins). I have no experience with this species and bryopsis, but they look neat and I've never kept urchins before. I placed them on the sand so they wouldn't bother the slugs. I'll update with any observations on how those work out.

I probably should have attempted to raise the magnesium and observed those effects for awhile before introducing herbivores. I was afraid that given how long it is taking to raise the magnesium levels that it might be winter by the time that was done, and it gets kind of dicey to mail order sea life around here in the winter. Scorched earth approach instead!

[fullmonti]

This stuff has just about taken all the fun out of reef keeping for me.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/fullmontitog/HA1.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/fullmontitog/HA2.jpg

I'm assuming it is the dreaded Bryopsis?

It is in a 180 sps tank. It got started when one or more of my RODI cartridges died. I replaced all of them once I figured out that was the problem. I have a over sized skimmer & keep a clean tank & sump. I tried the tech M, ran mag. up to 1800 nothing, been running GFO for months (never ever needed to before), do two water changes a week, have a ozone reactor, water is crystal clear, put 125 more snails & 50 more hermits, nitrate has been less than 1 for 3yrs & phosphate .o3 for months since new RODI, I spend 2-3 hours every few days pulling this crap of the rocks, I even found a home for a couple of largsish fish to lighten the bio-load, and still it grows. My rocks are glued together & have large corals incrusted on them so can't really take them out & nukem. I have a couple thousand gph going through my overflow, so not sure a sea hair would last very long in my tank. I don't have a refugium to fill up with algae, never needed one. About the only thing more I can think of is to set up a algae scrubber. Don't really have a good spot for one, & was hoping some one might have another suggestion.

After reading much of this thread I have to say I'm more discouraged than before.

Looking for a light at the end of the tunnel, Hoping it's not a train!

Jim

[nattarbox]

A little over a month in, my magnesium levels have slowly risen to 1375. I reduced my dose from 25g to 15g, because the amount of water it took to dissolve the larger dose was far more than I'm evaporating daily. Haven't seen any noticeable difference in algae growth yet.

The pincushion urchins, while neat, have showed no interest in bryopsis. The sea slugs are all over it as usual, but even a dozen isn't putting a dent in it. I think that if I can get the growth under control, the slugs would be useful for delivering the finishing blow.

Jim, out of curiosity and because I clearly have no words of comfort to offer yet, how long did it take to build your magnesium levels up to 1800? And how long did you maintain them at that level?

[fullmonti]

It took a week to two weeks, kept it there for awhile & it took another few weeks for it to come back down to normal.

I have installed a algae scrubber, no growth on it yet. It has shut my skimmer down though. I'm guessing because of all the new acrylic parts have to get some slime on them first (been a week now).

I just spent 2-3 hours picking this crap off again.

pruned fingers Jim

[nattarbox]

One to two weeks seems really accelerated to get magnesium from ~1200 to ~1800. I've been working at it for about a month and still have quite a ways to go. Although I was also starting at a level that was lower than where it should have been.

I'm guessing it would also take longer than a few weeks of magnesium being maintained at that elevated level before the bryopsis begins to show any signs of being affected by it too. My plan is to try and keep it at 1800 or higher for at least a few months to observe wether there is any benefit.

[DeathWish302]

This stuff has just about taken all the fun out of reef keeping for me.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/fullmontitog/HA1.jpg

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv100/fullmontitog/HA2.jpg

I'm assuming it is the dreaded Bryopsis?

It is in a 180 sps tank. It got started when one or more of my RODI cartridges died. I replaced all of them once I figured out that was the problem. I have a over sized skimmer & keep a clean tank & sump. I tried the tech M, ran mag. up to 1800 nothing, been running GFO for months (never ever needed to before), do two water changes a week, have a ozone reactor, water is crystal clear, put 125 more snails & 50 more hermits, nitrate has been less than 1 for 3yrs & phosphate .o3 for months since new RODI, I spend 2-3 hours every few days pulling this crap of the rocks, I even found a home for a couple of largsish fish to lighten the bio-load, and still it grows. My rocks are glued together & have large corals incrusted on them so can't really take them out & nukem. I have a couple thousand gph going through my overflow, so not sure a sea hair would last very long in my tank. I don't have a refugium to fill up with algae, never needed one. About the only thing more I can think of is to set up a algae scrubber. Don't really have a good spot for one, & was hoping some one might have another suggestion.

After reading much of this thread I have to say I'm more discouraged than before.

Looking for a light at the end of the tunnel, Hoping it's not a train!

Jim

Same scenario here.... Major flow in my tank, coupled with high Mg (~1600ppm) and a algae scrubber did nothing. I took the scrubber off-line and replaced it with the nasty taxifolia in my lagoon. Bryopsis = DEAD! Yea!

Now.... the dreaded HA has reared it's ugly mug. P04 & NO3 = Undetectable and constant agitation to any detritus has done nothing. The taxifolia and mangroves are growing great in the lagoon and I've just started to accept some algae. I'll harvets what I can and deal with it.

From my experience, the best GFO schedule coupled with some means to reduce nitrates and lower feedings is not enough to cure the HA and bryopsis. Even if you choke it out of existence, it will flare up at the smallest foothold of PO4 or NO3 it can grab. I prefer a low nutrient load, but not ULNS so a little algae never killed anything.

[nattarbox]

Sorry, just to be clear, you're saying that introducing Caulerpa taxifolia into your system somewhere resulted in the bryopsis dying off? Presumably by being outcompeted for nutrients?

[fullmonti]

I could live with a little algae just fine. But this crap will & has killed sps if I don't spend some hours every week picking it out. Just tested phosphate with hanna meter, has been .02 for last couple months now down to .01, tank is so clean there are hardly any pods any more & still it grows. I also found a home for two good sized fish to reduce feeding. It seems like nothing will eat the stuff either. I have always loved my tank, but last couple months it's just about been more aggravation than it's worth. Wife has asked me what the fun part was again. Don't know what I'll do if the algae scrubber does nothing, but it will have to be something severe!

[vegastyle]

I tried running Kent M up to 2100 for 4 weeks, GFO, washing frozen foods with RO/DI, and pulling rocks and spraying H2O2 on them-would kill the byropsis then come back in 10-14 days. Two weeks ago I pulled a byopsis coverd rock and dipped it in pure Kent M for 5 minutes, the bryopsis is still gone, maybe a final solution ??

[fullmonti]

If I have to do something that requirers cutting my corals off the rocks just so I can kill something that might come back, I would go to a fish only tank with little to no light or fresh water. I will not fight this crap forever! Not trying to be a drama queen, I'm just sick of this stuff. As always I appreciate the suggestions & encouragement though.

Jim

[DeathWish302]

Sorry, just to be clear, you're saying that introducing Caulerpa taxifolia into your system somewhere resulted in the bryopsis dying off? Presumably by being outcompeted for nutrients?

Yes, the C. Taxifolia outcompeted the bryopsis but does nothing against HA. I added some 20 mangroves about 3 months after adding the C. Taxifolia and the tiny patch of bryopsis died. Unfortunately this has happened before in this system when I was dosing vodka. Once I stopped dosing a carbon source, the bryopsis took maybe a month to pop back out of the same area on that rock. Once this stuff is 'seeded' on a rock, past a clorox dunk it's possible to always come back.

[DeathWish302]

If I have to do something that requirers cutting my corals off the rocks just so I can kill something that might come back, I would go to a fish only tank with little to no light or fresh water. I will not fight this crap forever! Not trying to be a drama queen, I'm just sick of this stuff. As always I appreciate the suggestions & encouragement though.

Jim

Try the scrubber and keep up on the weekly/bi-weekly prunings. If you don't see a reduction in 2-3 months you've done whta you can. Unfortunately, I think there are some systems that are setup doomed from the beginning and it's just the way it happens. Nothing about the equipment, bioload, feedings or maintenance schedule in particular is wrong just not the right mix. I had cyano for the longest time (2-4yrs). It drove me nuts to the point I started the initial scrubber. It reduced the cyano, but never eliminated it. I moved that same tank 18 months ago and added a rubbermaid stock tank sump and lagoon. I have had zero cyano outbreaks with the same livestock (if not more) since this system was reassembled. I know algae is a whole other bucket-o-poo, but keep experimenting and you will find a happy medium.

[nattarbox]

The worst part about my personal story is that I can distinctly remember the frag that brought byropsis into my tank. One little strand popped up from amongst the branches of the coral, and this entire year long ordeal could have been prevented right there by simply pulling the plug out.

Hell I even took a picture of it. Although in my defense, the 20k LEDs I had just put in place definitely made it hard to immediately identity as algae.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nattarbox/4756556808/" title="Something New by Nat Tarbox, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4756556808_394c8ec094.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Something New"></a>

A strong argument for a coral quarantine tank.

[Elliott]

nattarbox, same exact thing happened to me, I saw it and could have easily removed it back then, I battled for a year and ended up breaking the tank down, I now have a coral QT

[DeathWish302]

The worst part about my personal story is that I can distinctly remember the frag that brought byropsis into my tank. One little strand popped up from amongst the branches of the coral, and this entire year long ordeal could have been prevented right there by simply pulling the plug out.

Hell I even took a picture of it. Although in my defense, the 20k LEDs I had just put in place definitely made it hard to immediately identity as algae.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/nattarbox/4756556808/" title="Something New by Nat Tarbox, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4756556808_394c8ec094.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Something New"></a>

A strong argument for a coral quarantine tank.

I agree remove it when you see it in the early stages, but I'm not too inclined to think it wouldn't of happened eventually. I have had plugs that after MANY months in my system start sprouting bryopsis and other's that start immediately day three of entry. These are all virgin plugs or have been bleached from prior purchases. I have a feeling that bryopsis is lurking in most all systems, but it's a matter of when it will rear it's ugly face. I attribute this to potentially bound up PO4 or decay.

A perfect example is a new 'floating' magnetic colony rock I made from some rubble and shells I had from FL from a trip about 2 yrs ago. The rock was bleached and boiled, but the HA started growing rapidly on this new addition. It could only be a build-up of decaying matter or PO4 that could drive this growth.

Moral of the story is thorough inspection and continual maintenance will reduce and eventually eliminate (almost) any tank nuisance. I'd rather be pulling some HA and squirting the occassional aiptasia/mojano than weeding the garden anyday. Guess it's different for every person.

[nattarbox]

Any tips on manual removal in the tank?

I can pull off strands easily enough, but getting that last quarter inch that covers the rocks is hard. Toothbrush wasn't doing much, I don't think the bristles were stiff enough.

Doesn't help that a surly female clownfish has decided to bit the hand that feeds her now.

[Peetz]

Is this the same thing we are talking about? http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo291/peetz11/hairalgeintank004.jpg

This stuff is everywhere! What is this stuff taking over my shrooms? http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo291/peetz11/hairalgeintank008.jpg

I would like to get rid of it. Any help?

[DeathWish302]

Any tips on manual removal in the tank?

I can pull off strands easily enough, but getting that last quarter inch that covers the rocks is hard. Toothbrush wasn't doing much, I don't think the bristles were stiff enough.

Doesn't help that a surly female clownfish has decided to bit the hand that feeds her now.

My manual removal is a little different for each area of the tank. I try to let it keep growing on the coast-to-coast overflow and back glass as long as possible until it's hideous. Then the razor blade emerges from the frag kit and I take huge patched all at once with the water drained below this to not let any strands loose.

On rocks that are fairly smooth, I literally use 100-200grit sandpaper. Works like a charm and it's usually gone for good on smoother surfaces or until it reseeds there again.

On rough rock, I've just become accustomed to some residual algae and try choking it with other algae in the lagoon and controlled feedings. It's definitely a balance. After I go on biz travel or vacation for a week, I usually have to fight algae for about 4-8 weeks after due to not as controlled feedings with pellets.

Regardless if you like HA or not, at least you know that your system is fairly healthy if HA is growing. Your not starving your reef and just have a minor imbalance of input versus output. Try not to sweat it and do the best you can with controlled feedings, PO4 testing/GFO changes & the occassional pruning session. It took me nearly 5 months, but I erradicated majano only by persistence.

If I showed you my nano, you would see what could happen w/o persistence and this attention. That's a whole other matter though.....:wildone:

[nattarbox]

Good tips, thanks guys.

Magnesium levels are up to 1500ppm. I should be around 1850 in three weeks if it continues to increase at the same rate. Can't say I've seen much of a difference in growth yet.

I've started a vodka regimen as well, I successfully beat a nasty case of cyanobacteria with that method two years ago, so I figured it was worth a shot. I've also been paying closer attention to pH and alkalinity levels. At the very least, my corals are looking happy.

[nattarbox]

This individual seems to believe that Kent M magnesium is required, not just regular magnesium level increases. I was thinking about trying it anyway because the Seachem crystal stuff is a pain to dissolve on a daily basis.

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=28278

[DeathWish302]

Good tips, thanks guys.

Magnesium levels are up to 1500ppm. I should be around 1850 in three weeks if it continues to increase at the same rate. Can't say I've seen much of a difference in growth yet.

I've started a vodka regimen as well, I successfully beat a nasty case of cyanobacteria with that method two years ago, so I figured it was worth a shot. I've also been paying closer attention to pH and alkalinity levels. At the very least, my corals are looking happy.

I'm not buying into the high Mg level decreasing algae growth. Mine has been hovering around 1620-1680ppm due to the higher level of the IO I have been using for the past couple years. Let us know if a decline with the Tech M, but I still don't think it is a cure unless you control the balance of input vs. output.

[nattarbox]

What is "the higher level of the IO" that you're referring to?

It took me about a month to get from normal saltwater levels up to 1500, so I'd be interested to hear how you're maintaining it that high. I've been specifically avoiding water changes because they would quickly lower my magnesium levels and set me backwards.

Also from what I've read on that other forum, folks are speculating that it isn't actually the magnesium, but some other trace element (maybe copper) present in the Kent-M that is detrimental to the bryopsis.

[nattarbox]

This morning I switched from the Seachem magnesium dose at 25g (raising 25ppm daily) to the Kent liquid stuff. Starting the dose at 50ml, double what they suggest, which should raise levels 36.6ppm per day. I'm going to maintain that for a week and increase it again if I don't see any negative effects. I will probably start testing daily as well. I was at 1500ppm on Sunday.

[DeathWish302]

What is "the higher level of the IO" that you're referring to?

It took me about a month to get from normal saltwater levels up to 1500, so I'd be interested to hear how you're maintaining it that high. I've been specifically avoiding water changes because they would quickly lower my magnesium levels and set me backwards.

Also from what I've read on that other forum, folks are speculating that it isn't actually the magnesium, but some other trace element (maybe copper) present in the Kent-M that is detrimental to the bryopsis.

Purely performing WC with IO is how it has been at that level. I perform a 2% WC every other day and the IO has a Mg level of somewhere around 1700ppm the last time I checked. This is an old pallet of IO from a couple years back from my last bulk purchase. If you go back to 2009-2010, you'll see a sporatic burst of threads from high Mg & alk in IO. Since I don't do a massive WC, I'm not too concerned with the elevated levels, except that Mg hasn't fallen in some time since I switched to BRS Ca pellets. Seems the corals don't absorb as much Mg with the change to the BRS CaCl pellets compared to the previous Dow product.

As for adding huge quantities of TechM and potentially another element, which you are not testing for, seems like a bad idea. Why risk poisoning everything in the tank for the sake or q quick fix? Remember, you corals have algae constituents too.

[nattarbox]

Ah, IO = Instant Ocean. Got it.

Why risk poisoning everything in the tank for the sake or q quick fix?

Couple reasons:

1. If I don't defeat this algae, the tank isn't worth keeping.
2. I need to eradicate it before I can move corals to a new tank.
3. Nothing else has worked for me.
4. People have reported this method works.

I've been ramping up magnesium levels at a much slower pace specifically to observe and prevent any harmful effects, so not too worried about that.

Anyway, day two of the Kent and the bryopsis has lot a lot of color, starting to appear gray. And it almost appears to have lost some of the characteristic "feathering". I'm going to do some manual removal tonight to see if it feels different or weakened.

[nattarbox]

So far, if anything, my corals have appeared much more vibrant since I started this regimen. The daily attention has resulted in testing a number of other variants, and making some adjustments to the pH, alkalinity and calcium as well.

[nattarbox]

Magnesium tested at 1700ppm, up from 1500ppm on the 23rd. That is rising about twice as fast as I had previously been targeting, and most of it is probably from within the past two days when I switched to the Kent liquid additive and upped the dosage to 50ml.

Pulling out some of the bryopsis, I noticed that the stalks had become clear. The strands, which normally resemble feathers, had grouped together, giving it the "gloopy" appearance I had noticed earlier today. Interestingly, only the patches directly under one of my lights and somewhat out of the primary flow from the Vortech are showing this. Another patch appears as it always has.

I'm not quite sure where to go now. I don't want to go too far past 1700ppm, but this is also the first visible sign of the algae weakening. I might skip tomorrow's dose and observe what happens to the algae and the levels.

[mysterybox]

any updates on Bryopsis successes?

[brandon429]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082359

Id call that effective. we are up to about 12 pages of killing every known reef pest.
B

[BfishLpond78]

Anyone ID this algae that choking zoas?

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

[brandon429]

One dip of those as covered in my post above and they will be clean in two days.

[Elliott]

I may have finally had success treating Bryopsis. After raising Mg (via Kent or Brightwell) to 1800, I have a continuous Mg drip via a peristaltic pump 24/7 to maintain that level, Bryopsis has disappeared without a reoccurrence in 6 months, no ill effects on livestock

[BfishLpond78]

What about rocks that cannot be taken out of the tank?

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

[Elliott]

What about rocks that cannot be taken out of the tank?

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

I have not removed anything from the DT. In the past, after treating with Kent/Brightwell Mg the Bryopsis went away, only to return even with Mg dosing weekly. However with continuous Mg dosing it has not returned. There may be some benefit in a continuous Mg drip after raising the level.

[SantaMonica]

For those who like green in their tanks, and if it's not hurting anything, just can just leave it there.