Algal genus Spotlight: Bryopsis "hair algae"

[horge]

This was originally going to be submitted to Reefkeeping way back in July. For various reasons I didn’t think it would fit in, and decided my energies better focused on the tedious grind of filling out the online MaBMA (marine benthic macroalgae) catalogue.

I will be posting genus-level articles on TRT and here on RC every couple of weeks, in the hope that readers will contribute their photos of the alga being discussed, as well as contributing their experiences with the same. What follows is a slightly condensed version for RC, the lengthier original remaining on TRT’s (http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&forumid=6) forum, angling for the photos and experiences of interested readers, who have also been pointed to this forum.

Whatever the TOS on this board, the article and its excerpts remain my intellectual property. Enjoy.



*****
TRT MaBMA Algal Spotlight
“Hair Algae” Part 1/10 : Bryopsis
Author: Horge Cortes Jorge Jr.

Introduction
One of the most beloved of macroalgae in reef aquaristics are those rare guests, Bryopsis, one of several genera affectionately dubbed ‘hair algae’. Bryopsis are a vital and much sought-after component of the compleat reef aquarium. Bryopsis can cure cancer, end poverty, and bring about world peace.

But enough sarcasm.
The marine green algae Bryopsis are, to my perception, the most prevalent and problematic sort of ‘hair alga’ around our hobby, colonizing and dominating captive reefscapes with a speed and remorselessness that would make a Spanish conquistador blink.

Why are Bryopsis so common? Why do they spread so fast?
What does one do to rid one’s aquarium of them?
Why not read on, gentle readers?
:)

Taxonomic Background
There are at least 50 species of Bryopsis (including varieties and forms), but only a mere seven species are commonly found in tropical waters, plus three varieties of one of the most commonly cited species:

Bryopsis corticulans
Bryopsis corymbosa
Bryopsis halliae
Bryopsis hypnoides
Bryopsis indica
Bryopsis pennata
(Bryopsis pennata var. leprieurii )
(Bryopsis pennata var. secundata)
(Bryopsis pennata var. secunda)
Bryopsis plumosa
Bryopsis ramulosa

Many of the diagnostics between these species can be subtle to a hobbyist, and furthermore the morphological variance within some species (take just the much-cited B. plumosa for example) can be surprising. It is often practical not to differentiate between them.
What use, then, the list above?
I just wanna name-drop.
;)

God willing, MaBMA will deal with the dirty details of species-level diagnostics.

Morphology & Reproduction
Bryopsis all go through two alternating phases that are starkly different in appearance: as gametophytes and as sporophytes.

http://mabma.thereeftank.com/postpics/bryogam1.jpg
Fig 1.1: The gametophyte phase of Bryopsis, likely Bryopsis corticulans, producing male and female gametes which combine to form a zygote, which in turn settles to form the other phase, called a sporophyte:

http://mabma.thereeftank.com/postpics/bryospo.jpg
Fig 1.2: Bryopsis sporophyte is a sometimes lighter-green, filamentous, sparsely-branching and ground-hugging little wretch.
(Cut me slack: a sketch is all I can muster right now. Give me your photos!!! :D)

Because Bryopsis gametophytes are monoecious, they would seem to value sexual quantity over quality: during sexual reproduction, the chances are very good indeed for girl gametes and boy gametes to meet up and do their thing since they can come from so close to each other --as in, the same algal specimen. This means that ‘self-fertilization’ is likely, and whatever benefit derives from a more catholic genetic lottery are largely lost to any population of Bryopsis.

We must note: that the resulting sporophyte phase (see Fig 1.2 again) is rarely reported in marine aquaria suggests that sexual reproduction is not the usual means by which Bryopsis multiply in aquaria. Also, if there really aren’t any sporophytes, then spore-based reproduction can’t be common in aquaria either. There may be under-reportage involved, but let's just suppose here AREN'T many sporophytes around: how might Bryopsis usually reproduce?

Reef aquarium enthusiasts ought to be familiar with reproduction via fragmentation, and Bryopsis are, by the way, coenocytic –meaning each thallus is technically a single, if multinucleate, cell. Any scrap of Bryopsis --no matter how small-- can regenerate if allowed to settle in a favorable location.

Alas, there’s more:
The gametophyte also reproduces by forming what are called microthalli on the ends of the pinnules, when it isn’t Bryopsis “breeding season” --we did earlier indicate that gametangia and gametes were formed seasonally, yes?. Anyway, each microthallus eventually detaches and drifts freely in the current, just waiting for the right surface to crash into and colonize, as sporophytes. Again, since not too many sporophytes are being reported, then microthalli-formation may not be a serious issue in aquaria, so we’re back to accusing fragmentation as the chief means of reproduction.

In case this reproductive picture has become too contorted for words (and considering the verbal diarrhea preceding, it ought to be), let me share yet another visual crutch to enhance our confusion (see Fig 1.3)

http://mabma.thereeftank.com/bryopsis_lifecycle.jpg
Fig 1.3: Bryopsis Life-Cycle
(Again, cut me some slack: a sketch is the best I can offer right now)

One more time:
Given a paucity of reported sporophytes, we might assume that reproduction via fragmentation is the primary route to Bryopsis' frequent dominance in a marine aquarium. (Or, again, maybe no one is paying attention to the little creeps, leading to severe under-reportage.)

Controls
As I mentioned in another article, the standard threefold plan of attack against a problem alga is as follows:

1. Manual removal of the problem alga
2. Suppression via appropriate herbivores
3. Denial of resources

Given the strength in Bryopsis’ ability to reproduce, there must be an emphasized fourth:

4. Severe curtailment of reproduction

Manual removal of Bryopsis is a tedious task.
The removal itself is easy, as the thalli are small and soft enough to be scraped off. The thallus however is susceptible to severe fragmentation. The challenge is in ensuring that no viable algal material is released into the display environment.

If manual removal is to be attempted in the display, a siphon is most useful for drawing off any fragments that may eventually settle and regenerate, pointed right where the action is taking place. The drawn-off water may be discarded, though I have sometimes filtered such wastewater through calcium hydrochloride powder–which apparently destroys algal cells, and stored the filtrate in bottles for later use as calcium boosters.

If the Bryopsis-infested rock (or other material) can be removed to a separate container for a scrub-down, so much the better. Whatever saltwater was used in that container, during scrub-down, and for the final rinses, should be discarded

More herbivores can adapt to eating Bryopsis than the many horror stories around might suggest. The most reliable are perhaps some sacoglossan slugs (of Genus Elysia, for example) which unfortunately have relatively short lifespans. Other effective herbivores include certain sea urchins. While the commonly-sold herbivorous snails can infrequently take a bite out of Bryopsis, they can be messy eaters and none too thorough, just as many herbivorous fish can be. The viable algal crumbs from their feasting make the problem worse.

Even with herbivorous pressure, there is also the problem of incomplete digestion to consider: viable algal material is often found in the feces of many of these herbivores, and a biodiverse ecosystem, with herbivorous/omnivorous scavengers and recyclers of all sizes (the sort that live on eating the crap of higher herbivores....yechhh), seems the best way to deal with it.

Denying Bryopsis the resources they need (particularly nutrient) is a tricky thing to attempt. Their magnificent, plumose arrays (in the gametophyte phase) spell efficient assimilation of nutrient in the water, likely far more efficiently than anything a rival “scrubber” algae can muster. No harm in trying to introduce competition, though! Obviously, one can try to limit the nutrients imported into the system. A reef aquarium must be fed, and natural, live foods can live on in the display, rather than decomposing and releasing nutrient when left uneaten.

Physical removal can become a repetitious ordeal even with the best efforts at providing herbivorous pressure and at denying resources to the problem alga(e). This is likely because of the impressive reproductive potential that Bryopsis own. The process of obtaining relief can perhaps be speeded up by specifically targeting the avenues that Bryopsis employ to perpetuate their presence. All aforementioned modes of Bryopsis reproduction depend on using the water as a transport medium, and water is among the easiest of a reef aquarium’s components to police, given the circulation systems we use.

A properly-designed UV sterilizer may effect a significant reduction in repeat manifestations of Bryopsis, within the context of physical removal, herbivorous suppression, and resource denial. Those latter three primarily deal with the presence of Bryopsis on substrate, whilst proper application of UV (or other prophylactic filtration) helps deal with the problem’s presence in the water, obliterating many spores, gametes, microthalli and viable fragments. It is also no small benefit that proper use of UV filters also provides rapid oxidation of many dissolved nutrients in the water, reducing one fuel that powers Bryopsis blooms.
Fourfold approach, then.

Of course, patience, humble perseverance and a little prayer go a long way. So does sharing your pain with your brothers and sisters on TRT (and RC).
:)

Summary
Bryopsis are a formidable bunch of algae to deal with, and in no small part due to their reproductive prowess. They can reproduce sexually via gametes, or asexually via spores, fragmentation or dispersal of 'microthalli'.

Bryopsis are often deemed problem algae in the hobbyist reef aquarium. While addressing the physical presence with manual removal and herbivores, and attempting to slow its growth via denial of resources are important, it is likely just as important to restrict reproduction. Prophylactic filtration of the water (for example, via UV devices) may provide the means towards a shortened effort at controlling any outbreak of Bryopsis.


*****
Please help me:
Contribute your own photos of Bryopsis, and your experiences in dealing with it, what worked and what didn’t, to MaBMA. Post them on this thread and indicate your willingness to let me use them. If the kind of photo you post is just what I don’t already have, I’ll PM you for details (like what name you want to appear on the photo as credit, like in Jim Bednar's photo above, etc.)

After ten genera of hair algae, (every couple of weeks) I’ll move on to finger algae, I guess. Or maybe we'll do random Genera from all across the spectrum of weeds. Lemme know.


Yebaaa,
horge

[piercho]

Super! Just when i was going to start a whining thread about how boring it is getting on the plant forum, too. I apologize, I unfortunately haven't acquired that particular beauty for photos, so I have none to offer. Just wanted to offer thanks and some positive feedback for your efforts.

[horge]

Glad you like it, piercho :)

*****

Bill? Any moderator or adminsitrator?
Can someone please edit a typo in the above article?
In the preamble, I misspell the word slightly as 'sightly'
(as in "What follows is a sightly condensed version for RC...")

*****

Crossing my fingers for photos,
horge

[billsreef]

No problem ;)

Had some lush Bryopsis in one of my fuge's, I'll check to see if I have any respectable photo's that included it. It crashed several months ago. I'd like to think due to superior nutrient control via, caulerpa and sea grasses ;)

[Will]

Horge, PM me your e-mail address. I can send you more pictures of Bryopsis than you'll ever want. Heck, I can even send ya plenty of live samples!! ;) This stuff is killing me! It even grows on other algae!!!!! Excellent article, by the way! :)
-Will

[horge]

It is horge, followed by @, followed by hotmail.
I am phrasing that way to foil mailbots :)

Can't you just post them here?
More fun for everyone that way!

[Will]

Alas, I didn't even think about that. I'll go get a few shots now and post in a few minutes.
-Will

[cal3v]

Wow I had some unidentified algae and it was bryopsis, I am gonna yank the tiny piece out.

[dc]

Well it's real hard to get a good picture but here's mine. I've been battling it for 8 months now. Ever since my tank overheated. I have bought a Foxface, Lettuce Nudibranchs, and Astrea snails. I also manually remove. I have less than I use to but it is still a battle. Yes if the pics are good enough you can use them.

http://images2.fotki.com/v20/photos/2/28482/171438/4bryopsis-vi.jpg

An older picture, where it looks more like hair algae from far away.
http://images.fotki.com/v7/photos/2/28482/68928/bryopsis-vi.jpg

[Will]

Debi, I think that's the same species that I've got. It's terrible stuff, eh!? I hate it! :(
-Will

[horge]

Debi, thanks.
Can you PM me the credit you want to appear on the photo, if any?

It may be a month or so before it gets used, though.

[johnrags1234]

Bryopsis is the devil! My patches did die however when I had lights off of the tank for 3-4 days. They just cam back, but I maually removed most of it.

John

[TheMandarinFish]

To beat hair algae, which I am currently in heavy combat against, I have read a *LOT* and experienced that, to beat it, you must:

1) reduce nutrients... the better skimmer you have, the less you will have. Think the largest EuroReef you can fit and afford

2) reduce phosphates... get phosphate sponge material, I think Kent makes good stuff. Run it through a cannister if you can (my next step, currently I have it in my sump in high-volume area contained in a nylon bag)

3) get an algae / lawnmower blenny... mine is obese. I'm not kidding. I think I am abusing the poor fish; he has a huuuuge gut.

4) get a zebrasoma tang... my purple and yellow and even hippo tangs go to town on this crap algae

5) set up a refugium... the more algaes that compete with hair algae, the better. Not just the coralline, but get gracilaria, sargassum, ulva, some mangrove trees, basically anything that will try to out-grow the hair algae by using the same nutrients, minerals, elements.

I used to have a veritable kelp forest of hair algae. It is at about 30% of what it once was just a month ago, and I hardly bother to remove it by hand.

Kicking off your lights won't eliminate it. Zapping phosphates, having plants compete with it, and having animals eat it will. Good luck!

[Will]

But my friend, Bryopsis is not hair algae. It truly is the devil! EVIL stuff! :eek2:
-Will

[Jamesurq]

Originally posted by TheMandarinFish
To beat hair algae, which I am currently in heavy combat against, I have read a *LOT* and experienced that, to beat it, you must:

1) reduce nutrients... the better skimmer you have, the less you will have. Think the largest EuroReef you can fit and afford

2) reduce phosphates... get phosphate sponge material, I think Kent makes good stuff. Run it through a cannister if you can (my next step, currently I have it in my sump in high-volume area contained in a nylon bag)

3) get an algae / lawnmower blenny... mine is obese. I'm not kidding. I think I am abusing the poor fish; he has a huuuuge gut.

4) get a zebrasoma tang... my purple and yellow and even hippo tangs go to town on this crap algae

5) set up a refugium... the more algaes that compete with hair algae, the better. Not just the coralline, but get gracilaria, sargassum, ulva, some mangrove trees, basically anything that will try to out-grow the hair algae by using the same nutrients, minerals, elements.

I used to have a veritable kelp forest of hair algae. It is at about 30% of what it once was just a month ago, and I hardly bother to remove it by hand.

Kicking off your lights won't eliminate it. Zapping phosphates, having plants compete with it, and having animals eat it will. Good luck!

Tried them all - I guess I'm buying some lettuce nudis?

[ReefSpy]

Did someone say they wanted pics of hair algae? ;)

[ReefSpy]

Here's another. I'll get some macros in daylight

[TheMandarinFish]

Euroreef, less feeding, phosphate sponge, and a refugium, along with my tangs and algae blenny have decimated the hair algae that was overwhelming my tank.

Now if I can just get rid of the crazap on the glass.

[Boomer]

Very nice piece Horge, so when can we expect a book :D. By the way, I just read your garlic piece, also nicely done

[dc]

No more pics? Well here's a before and after (sort of) These are the same corals also!

Oct 2002

http://images.fotki.com/v7/photos/2/28482/68928/730Bryopsisright-vi.jpg

July 2003

http://images2.fotki.com/v20/photos/2/28482/171438/6tank4-vi.jpg

[Reefrunner262]

Lettuce Sea Slugs eat that stuff exculsivly, at least from what i have read.

PS good job DC!

Hope helps
Travis

[Los]

I was getting overrun with the stuff in my 240. Hated it and worse... my wife was starting to get annoyed.

Without knowing how much it would help, I bought a single lawnmower blenny and that damn bastard eats the stuff to quickly. Now I've only got a little tiny tuft left and I moved it to my quaranteen tank, since I actually like having a little bit of it around.

Those lawnmower blennies are NUTS. He single handedly, somehow, devoured about a shotglass sized chunk of algea per day.

Just my experience, and I'm not certain that it was the same type of algea, but it certainly worked in my case.

BTW, my algea had a single stock in the middle, with feathery looking strands going out the side. It actually looks OK when there is a little bit of it, but in bulk it was horrible. It would even start clogging my overflows.

Best of luck,

LOS

[lesd]

The vast majority of fish will ignore Bryopsis. I have Tangs who devour normal hair algae and caulerpa, but won't touch Bryopsis.

Some people have had success with rabbitfish. I've heard better stories about orange-spotted and doliatus rabbitfish than the common foxface. However, even that is hit or miss.

My problem is that I can't even use Lettuce slugs. I have too much flow in my tank and they just end up getting blown around and sucked into the overflow.

Phosphate removers (aluminum based ones) really make my leather corals unhappy.

So right now I'm just manually removing as much Bryopsis as I can, and it's steadily spreading all throughout my tank. Hopefully when I move the tank next month I can scrub down all the rocks and make a real dent in it.

Anybody tried a plethora of tuxedo or other urchins?

-- Lesd

[piercho]

My tuxedo seems to be mostly interested in coraline. It also does a fair job keeping red turf timmed back, but only if its very short and sparse. I suspect it is going through the red turf to get to the coraline. It won't go for fleshy algaes, at all, and doesn't do much to green turf (Derbesia?).

I've heard that diadema (long-spined) urchins will mow through just about anything they encounter, but I've never kept one myself.

[horge]

Originally posted by Reefrunner262
Lettuce Sea Slugs eat that stuff exculsivly, at least from what i have read.

Travis

Hi Travis :)
What you've read is much repeated myth.

When everyone started sharing online heartaches about Bryopsis, some entrepreneur must have skimmed through the internet to find a suitably-marketable herbivore.

The sacoglossan "lettuce" slug Elysia crispata (formerly Tridachia crispata) must have come up in searches because of a published study on its juvenile dietary preferences by Clark & Bussaca (1978). The study listed Bryopsis plumosa among the algae that the juveniles chowed on. Batophora oerstedi, Halimeda spp, Penicillus spp, Caulerpa paspaloides and Caulerpa racemosa filled out the rest of the menu in the locality they studied.

Somehow, Clark & Bussaca's "will eat Bryopsis"
got twisted into "will eat Bryopsis exclusively"

Jensen & Clark (1983) even showed that Caulerpa verticillata beat out Bryopsis for food preference among the lettuce-slug juvies.


Lesd et al.
Hi :)
The chief means towards Bryopsis spread in aquaria apparently remains fragmentation. Physical removal HAS to be accompanied by efforts to trap all algal debris generated by trimming/scraping.

If you're scraping in-tank, you'd better have a running siphon on-site to draw off viable algal debris. The siphoned-out water can be discarded, or else fine-filtered and then used for preparing kalkwasser (the high pH nukes algal debris to hell, and helps lock down any released organics) for later use. All precipitate is thus better discarded and NOT introduced t the display: just the clear-ish kalk fluid, thank you.

If you're scrubbing LR down in a basin somewhere else, the rock has to be rinsed thoroughly with saltwater prior to reunion with the diplay. The rinsewater is best discarded.

Systems with a UV filter and very good throughput have a noticably easier time controlling Bryo outbreaks ---the UV oxidizes a lot of waterborne nutrient, and kills waterborne (and viable) algal debris.


hth.
I'll post an article on another algal Genus one of these days.

[Angel*Fish]

My 55g is over run with it - the hair algae can't even compete. My 100g gallon should be ready next week, I'm seriously considering dumping all my LR for new...
Uh - anybody want to buy a bunch of bryopsis covered LR? ;)

My refugium is packed with grape, feather and regular caulerpa, dictyota, gracilaria & some huge masses of tangly green wiry stuff ( a valonia?) Zero bryopsis - I think I'm gonna start putting tons of it in the main tank & see what happens...

I like algae and I thought the first bryopsis clumps were attractive - if only I had known then what I know now:sad2:

[Jamesurq]

To all - This method worked for me:

I tore out clumps and put them in the refugium. With the 24 hour light in there, it thrived. The remaining clumps in the display starved and died (presumably because the nutrients were being used up by the rapidly spreading bryopsis in the fuge.)

I then purchased a lettuce nudi who now inhabits my refugium and keeps the bryopsis controlled.

I originally had him in the main tank - but man, those things LOVE powerheads.

[MountainReef]

Help what started as a beautiful blue-green fernlike macro algae is now full blown out of control. I have emerald crabs, scarlet and blue hermits, a purple tang, a sailfin blenny, flame and coral beauty angels. Nothing will eat this stuff. I have tried scrubbing the rock to no avail. I am using lots a phosphate remover in my canister and I am using UV sterilization. I am losing!!

This algae adheres to everything including glass and has infected my fiji moonstone coral.

HELP!!!!

I feel I may lose my tank.



http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10598

[mmgm]

I noticed you are running a wet/dry with bioballs. Your Nitrate levels are probably high contributing to the problem. I would suggest you SLOWLY get rid of your bioballs and rely on skimmer and LR only to filter your tank. Also, if you can start a refugium with DSB and macro algae to reduce nutrients your problem algae are relying on.

Looks like you are in a real bind. Have you seen this thread?

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=219002

Note: If you take the advise of the thread AZNO3 did not work for me when I was running my wet/dry with bioballs. It only started working when bioballs were removed.

Good Luck

[MountainReef]

Does anyone know where this voracious consumer of Bryopsis might be purchased or traded? Elysia Ornata is reported to feed soley upon Bryopsis.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12107&papass=&sort=1&thecat=3186

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12106&papass=&sort=1&thecat=3186


Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.

"Can't see the forest for the Bryopsis"

[pyranha]

This is also a good article about bryopsis. I had it, and it just seemed to go away. I have no doubt that it will come back someday.

http://www.globaldialog.com/~jrice/algae_page/bryopsis.htm

[ez1ez]

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html
I went to this site and used this kalkwasser/vinegar mix. I was told to just pour the whole thing into my sump before it settles. 3 days later I did it again and one week later no hair algae. I myself had no problems after I did this process and best thing is I still am algae free.

[ez1ez]

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html
I went to this site and used this kalkwasser/vinegar mix. I was told to just pour the whole thing into my sump before it settles. 3 days later I did it again and one week later no hair algae. I myself had no problems after I did this process and best thing is I still am algae free.

[ez1ez]

http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html
I went to this site and used this kalkwasser/vinegar mix. I was told to just pour the whole thing into my sump before it settles. 3 days later I did it again and one week later no hair algae. I myself had no problems after I did this process and best thing is I still am algae free.

[tatuvaaj]

horge,

I know I'm a "bit" late but here are some of my Bryopsis (?) pictures ;)

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~tatu/micro3/img_4640_std.jpg

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~tatu/micro3/img_4639_std.jpg

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~tatu/micro3/crw_4348_std.jpg

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~tatu/micro3/crw_4334_std.jpg

[Boomer]

Great Pics Tatu :thumbsup:

[tatuvaaj]

Boomer,

Thanks :) It's a beautiful algae! ;)

[MountainReef]

Beautiful This! :rolleyes:

You can have all you want;)

[Paul B]

I believe I know why so many people have so many ways to get rid of hair algae. My reef is over thirty years old and for the first few years there was no hair algae. Then I started to get it in cycles for a few weeks at a time. Eventually, the cycles became longer until now I never am without it. My point is that for some reason it would disappear on it's own without doing anything and the tank would be free of it for many months.
I used to have an urchin collecting business here in New York where I would collect local purple urchins to ship to aquariums and hobbiests to control algae. The northern urchins would eat very fast in a tropical reef because they were not tropical animals. Each urchin would clean an area about an inch wide and about a foot long a night. When I had a dozen of them in the tank it looked like it was sandblasted. They would live about a year. Unfortunately my boat is away for the year and I am not collecting this year anymore. Hopefully next year I will get some.

[pubily]

Horge...congratulations. I enjoyed your article...it helped me...and I thoroughly enjoyed your style. I hope to read many more articles by you...thanks from a gentle reader.

[dc]

:D I think I'm winning! All Lettuce Nudis are not created equal. I got 2 and one is a eating machine and the other is usually on the glass.

http://images4.fotki.com/v49/photos/2/28482/235116/tank-vi.jpg

[reiple]

nice looking tank dc. no green algae!

[Recce]

I have heard reports of people using boiling RO water, applied to the problem area with a syringe. I have been told that this has a two fold effect of killing the majority of the algae due to both the heat and the fresh water, and the fact that it becomes more palatable to herbivorous fish in this state. Has anyone heard of this method being successfull?

At various stages, I have had my whole tank virtually full of bryopsis, and through a process of manual removal and addition of a rabbit fish, I have it down to 2 smallish patches. I have no problem at at with any other algae, my Acantharus mata takes care of everything else, but the bryopsis persists, which is why I am considering using the boiling water method.

[MountainReef]

Would you remove the rock and then treat the Bryopsis or treat it in the tank? I do not think dosing the algea in the tank could produce enough heat to do any good.

How about manually removing and scrubing the rock then treating the growth areas with boiling water? How about mixing some amount of bleach with the water and then soaking rock in a bucket treated with chlorine remover?

My tank is about 75% inundated. I am ready to throw all my rock away and start over.

[Recce]

I got to the point where I was going to take my entire tank apart and start again as well, but I removed the pieces of affected rock, and scrubbed them with a scrubbing brush in a bucket and replaced them, which seemed to do the trick. The only reason I dont want to take the remaining pieces out and clean them, is that they are pivotal pieces of the reef structure, and cant be taken out without taking the whole structure apart.

[Gerard the fish]

get an algae / lawnmower blenny... mine is obese. I'm not kidding. I think I am abusing the poor fish; he has a huuuuge gut.

You cant type this and not show us pics of your overweight lawnmower blenny!!!

- g

[mcanavan69]

This came on a rock that I got at my LFS that had lots of zo's on it. Since then it has spread like crazy.:strooper:

[Gerard the fish]

You might wanna post this in another section (New to Hobby)

You will also need a picture showing the rock up close.

- g

[Paul B]

A few weeks ago I dismantled my entire reef for the first cleaning in 25 years. I put the rock in the dark for a week and cleaned the gravel with 12 cleanings with a large diatom filter. All is well now and everything is back. The details are on the post
"just cleaned thirty year old tank" in the reef section.

[pisces 12]

I bought two algae blennys and they d'ont seem to be picking on the stuff only the algae on the glass so i what i did is took some of my rock that had been covered with Bryopsis and frist scrubed it off with a hard brush and then i mixed up a batch of kalkwasser and brushed it all over the infected area i soaked it real good then i dunked it in old or fresh sea water and back in to the tank so far the spots that i treated no sign of Bryopsis its been four days now the only draw back to this plan is i have some rocks that are on the the bottom and to remove them would mean to take the whole tank apart so for those i am still looking for help if there is any i would gladly wellcome some.

[Joe_Bui]

So I visited the Sea Slug forum and they told me that the Elysia Viridis Sea Slug mows down bryopsis. The only problem is that I can't seem to find anyone who sells this sea slug. It is related to the lettuce nudibranch, but much much more effective in removing that nasty weed. Does anybody know of a source for these critters?

[Paul B]

Joe_Bui you are correct about the lettuce slug I have over 100 of them and they do not eat anything. I even have some about 4" long. They are multiplying like crazy. They will sit on algae and they may even sleep on it but if you are waiting for them to eat it, forget it.

[pisces 12]

OK this is i guess for people who's rock is just got patches of BRYOPSIS growing on it. when my 265 sprang a leak and had to replace it 85% of the rock was coverd with the stuff i kept the rocks that had no algae on them the ones on the bottom when i put them back they started to grow BRYOPSIS but oniy in small patches algae blennys did'nt eat it i had an idea i took out one peice to test my idea i pick off the algae then scrub it and then i mixed up a some KALKWASSER took a small paint brush and brushed on the area were the BRYOPSIS was growing let it sit for minute and did it again then rinse it in salt water and back in the tank for the had to get to spots i got in with a piplet and so far so good its been about two months and no signs of any BRYOPSIS the reason i said about this method is not for everyone is if you cover to much of the rock with kalkwasser you will kill all the life on it . for what its worth this has worked there is NO BRYOPSISin my tank.CARL

[Gudwyn]

I have a ton of bryopsis in my tank.

Recently finished cycling the tank and turned on all my halides. Most of the bryopsis turned into these slimey gooey yellow snot strands. Is that reproduction or death? It seems to be regrowing little shoots all over the tank again.

Kinda frustrating. I have never fed any food since I only have a lawnmower blenny. Running a euroreef skimmer and a macroalgae fuge (gracillaria and ulva). RODI topoff and Instant Ocean salt mix. Nutrients are definitely a net export. But this stuff is spreading.

[Gerard Alba]

I hate them.

[prezioso73]

Tagging along...

[Snailspace]

OK, it may make you shutter, but I took out the rock that first showed hair and did a chlorox bath and scrub. I rinsed VERY well and did a few fresh water soaks. The last I used a heavy dose of de-chlorinator and put it back in the tank> Nothing happened to fish or corals.

I have noticed that most who have severe outbreaks have huge flows. The flows spread the algae faster so I think flow is a great contributor. If one tries to pick it, it gets worse. I don't think picking makes much sense...unless it's done by a Tang.

Fuge competition, Tang, UV sterilizer (for waterborn part.), reduced direct flow, and quick (and in my case...insane) action are my suggestions.

[AquaNight]

OK my 2 cents. This thread looks to be dwindling but it is a great thread with a subject we all will encounter eventually.

By my own hand I created a hair algae problem. I had placed a piece of foam under my pump to quiet it down. It slowly released phosphates into the water.

I also was trying to trap a Mantis Shrimp and left my bait ( a hunk of shrimp) in too long. Suddenly HAIR ALGAE.

The outbreak was nothing like the pics others had sent up but having a tank years ago that was overrun with it I knew what lay around the corner for me.

A trip to Gerbers in Dayton, Oh. and a lengthy chat with their youngest and possibly brightest employee changed my mind from the lawnmower Blenny to a Rabbitfish (Siganus doliatus)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/45342siganus_doliatus34996.jpg

He sent my home with 2 Rabbitfish, 6 Conch, and a Yellow Tang that I wanted because it was pretty.

Also in my tank already are 15 turbosnails a brittle star and tens of thousands of unidentified critters.

My cleanup crew was in place.

It has been a week now and they have cleared out every form of plant life in the tank. I had several types of Algae that I wanted in there (and will grow back)

I also have a healthy growth of calurpa in my fuge and dropped one of the wife kneehighs loaded with a phosphate remover in my main overflow.

I can tell you honestly that the Rabbitfish and Conch WILL eat every bit of algae in your tank.

One note: They didn't seem to like the hair algae if it is too long so I removed rocks with the longest growth on them, scrubbed them with a brush and rinsed them under tank water that I discarded afterward.

I never really let it get out of hand but as you can see in the pic that crew mowed down to the stalk all algae in there.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/45342100_0420.jpg

Good luck with your endeavors!

Jeff

[Joe_Bui]

Hey Jeff,

I think that's the key with the rabbit fish. The algae can not be too long or they will not eat it. I've brushed down all my rock and just got the exact fish you have in my tank. I am hoping that he will polish off the little nubs of algae as it starts to grow.


Got my fingers crossed...


Joe

[AquaNight]

Yea if its about 1/8 inch or shorter it will never get a hold in there again. I have seen them pull out hunks of the longer stuff but its rare.

My Yelllow tang is also great at picking at the shorter stuff.

Keep us posted with your progress.

Jeff

[DNA]

Cover the Bryopsis spot COMPLETELY and it's dead in a few days. Leave your lights on, but deprive the algae of what it needs the most to live.

[Paul B]

Since my last post here in January I found out that the lettuce slugs that keep multiplying in my reef eat nothing but bryopsis. Who would have thought. Of course I have no bryopsis so the things do not get very large. I sent some to a researcher who studys these slugs and she sent me some bryopsis. In a seperate tank (I am not crazy) I put some slugs and they sucked all the juice out of the bryopsis and it turned into slime. A few slugs will not do it but if you can get a large one and get it to spawn you will have hundreds. They only get about 1/2" long without bryopsis then I think they die. With bryopsis they get about three inches. They sell them here in NY in "Fish Town " for about $7.00. The only problem with them is as babies you have to screen intakes for powerheads. Here is a picture of one of my babies.

[Joe_Bui]

Hey Paul,

If possible, I would like to purchase some of your elysia crispata. Care to share?

[Paul B]

Joe I wish I had enough slugs for everyone that wants them but unfortunately that is not the case. I have no bryopsis so they do not grow. I used to have over 100 but I gave many away and sold a bunch to stores, I just counted twenty left. I would like to keep these but I think they will disappear soon. When all of them are gone I can unscreen my powerheads which I have to clean every two days. I guess they do not sell them in California.

[staticfishmonger]

this stuff all of a sudden appeared. it was pretty small so i didnt think much of it. then with in a week or so i took off covering my entire ricordia rock, and then began showing up else where. also other more typical hair algaes showed up as well. i have been removing it via toothbrush and syphon but it comes back with in a few weeks. i am going to try to aquire a few fish to help me. i was thinking a kole tang, and rabbit fish, then later a sailfin tang.

http://img29.photobucket.com/albums/v86/staticfishmonger/macro_2.jpg

[GSchiemer]

That's Bryopsis for sure. Good luck. It's a tough battle. You can try the Fiji Rabbitfish (Siganus uspi). It's the only fish I've ever seen touch the stuff.

Greg

[wharfrat48]

My cycle has been finished for about a month now and I have a terrible hair algae outbreak. I was under the assumption that this was to be expected and it should resolve itself. It definitly looks like Bryopsis (getting my camera tommorow, I'll post pics then). I haven't done too much to combat the problem because I figured it was just a phase--now two weeks into it, it's getting quite annoying. I do have a fuge with Chaeto in it, and I have shortened the photoperiod in the main tank and increased it in the fuge. Should I be doing anything else, or just let it run it's course. (Yes, it is the devil)

Rich

[staticfishmonger]

well i have just read some horror stories of foxfaces terrorizing tanks. picking at corals eating polyps and so forth, not to mention some of the people who were stuck with there venomus spines. i think ill stick with the tangs. kole and a sailfin, or purple and a sailfin. have'nt decided yet.
i also just adjusted my photoperiod to help with the killing of unwanted algae. it may be winning the battle for now, but i intend to win the war. little does it now how persistant i can be.
hahahahaha :lol:

[GSchiemer]

Originally posted by staticfishmonger
well i have just read some horror stories of foxfaces terrorizing tanks. picking at corals eating polyps and so forth, not to mention some of the people who were stuck with there venomus spines. i think ill stick with the tangs. kole and a sailfin, or purple and a sailfin. have'nt decided yet.
i also just adjusted my photoperiod to help with the killing of unwanted algae. it may be winning the battle for now, but i intend to win the war. little does it now how persistant i can be.
hahahahaha :lol:

I can assure you that the tangs you've mentioned will NOT eat Bryopsis algae. Even Siganus uspi is hit or miss. If you can remove the rock with the algae, I would, even if it means getting rid of the coral. Nothing short of a nuclear bomb will permanently kill that stuff, and I'm not even sure about that. :)

Greg

[staticfishmonger]

i know they wont eat the bryopsis in the picture i posted, but i have heard alot of reports saying they will graze on the more common hair algae. im not an expert on the subject, but i have had tangs before and in my FO they wiped all the algae out of my tank including the cyno. i think like you said its hit or miss.

[tatuvaaj]

Greg,

Even Siganus uspi is hit or miss.
I was just going to ask about that :) Thanks for the information!

[prezioso73]

Kole tang will not touch it. Lawnmower Blenny will not touch it.
I hear that Bali Slime Monster eats it.

But for me,Phosban is the key!

[DNA]

Managed to clean out a few nasty patches recently. What I did was to pick some seashells on a local beach and placing them over the patch for 2 weeks. Some of the shells slipped from their position after about a week exposing the remains of the Bryopsis and I cought the tangs eating the remains. This also happens if you squint it with boiling water. I guess it's because the algea is actually dead or perhaps it tastes better.

[Gudwyn]

I no longer have bryopsis in my tank. Went from a plague to nothing pretty quickly.

Month of heavy skimming and no feeding. Only fish was a lawnmower blenny. My pod population grew to monster proportions. Even during the day, you could see hundreds of amphipods in the bryopsis.

They ate every last scrap. And now you can't find any bryopsis or any pods in the tank at all.

[DNA]

Interesting Gudwyn.
So remove all the fish and the little guys will take care of it?

[Gudwyn]

Worked for me, but can't promise it will work for you.

[slojmn]

Thought I would throw in my current Bryopsis pics and plan for elimination...for what it is worth:( . I figure a three pronged approach at first is best, scrubbing the rocks outside the tank/kalk paste/rinse and return to tank, then try and find some of those lettuce sea slugs that may or may not eat it, and finally small water changes every 2-3 days for the foreseeable future, maybe 8-10 gallons at a time with a larger weekend amount of 12-15 gallons. Since I know the nutrient load is high and that I have neglected my tank to some degree, very few water changes and I got away from keeping things balanced, since March 2003. only to get back to caring better for the system this February. The outbreak is my fault and I figure I need to right the ship in some ways. This is just a start and I will chronicle my failures or success with pictures and updates on my website. Who knows, maybe I'll have some luck in the next few months with this approach. Here are a few pics for your viewing.

http://slojmnsreef.homestead.com/files/bryopsis_infestation_1_61704_small.jpg

http://slojmnsreef.homestead.com/files/bryopsis_infestation_2_61704_small.jpg

http://slojmnsreef.homestead.com/files/bryopsis_infestation_4_61704_small.jpg

[AquaNight]

I put 1 Rabbit Fish in and within a month all was gone. Also ramped up my plants in the fuge, also increased light time in fuge.

But Rabbit really did the work.

[GSchiemer]

What species of Rabbitfish? Did you actually see the fish eating the bryopsis? Are you certain your algae was bryopsis? BTW, I'm not discounting what you've claimed. I have seen certain species of Rabbitfish eat bryopsis.

Greg

[AquaNight]

Heres the guy (siganus_doliatus) and yes he did eat it. Took him a while. He cleared the tank of all other algae 1st but he did eat it.

In the mean time I would just reach in with my fingers and pull out globs of the crap.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/45342siganus_doliatus34996.jpg


Good luck,

Jeff

[GSchiemer]

Originally posted by AquaNight
Heres the guy (siganus_doliatus) and yes he did eat it. Took him a while. He cleared the tank of all other algae 1st but he did eat it.

In the mean time I would just reach in with my fingers and pull out globs of the crap.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/45342siganus_doliatus34996.jpg


Good luck,

Jeff

I wasn't the individual with the Bryopsis problem; I was just curious about your rabbitfish. :) BTW, nice picture.

I've also seen the rabbitfish, Siganus uspi, eat Bryopsis. As you've noted, it didn't eat it preferentially, but did so after wiping out all other sources of food.

Greg

[drblank1]

Jeff,

Do you have corals in your tank? If so, what kind and does your rabbit fish bother them?

Thanks,
Dennis

[Phiche Master]

I guarantee bryopsis elimination with a foxface (great fish, personality, friendly, smart, odd looking though). A dedicated emerald crab will also spead the process, however emeralds seem to be picky in what they like to eat. I had a huge outbreak, tried everything!!!!!! evntually boiling water and a syringe....still in came back. Foxface Rabbitfish came along and totally elimed the bryopsis

[DNA]

In my case the added growth of macroalgea in the sump clearly helped alot with keeping Bryopsis down. Now it does not grow back after I use boiling water on it and there are only a few very small patches left.

[kvosstra]

i also had a doliatus rabbitfish that ate the stuff. he is since gone from the tank, and again I have a problem with the bryopsis. They are beautiful fish and I highly suggest one instead of a similar size tang. Mine was kept in a 150g sps dominated tank, he was quite a showfish.

[sultros]

My friend and I both had Bryopsis after our tanks finished cycling. It hitch-hiked on some figi live rock.

Both my 75 and my friends 120 have fuge's and grow crazy amounts of Macro algae including chaetoa, green grape, and sea grass.

Eventually both of us had a nasty outbreak of hitch-hiking Bryopsis. Once my cleanup crew was in, one out of four emerald crabs began eating this stuff. It cleaned off a patch the size of a baseball. Unfortunately I lost this emerald crab a few days later. Not sure why it died but the others are still alive but never touched the stuff. My friend never had luck with any of the emeralds crabs and resorted to hand pulling weekly.

Once I added a yellow tang, this stuff was history. The yellow would agressively eat all day. My friend began adding Tangs to his system fairly recently. His first was a Blue T. It never touched this stuff and preferred turf. Four months later, upon my recommendation, he added both a Kole and a Yellow. Like the Blue, the Kole wouldnt touch it. The yellow, on the other hand, went after it like mine did. His Yellow is not agressively targeting Bryopsis but is actively eating it and putting a dent in its growth and population.

Something I feel I should include, as if this isnt long enough already, is the infestion of my system by Dictyota. While one half of my tank was Bryopsis, the other with Dictyota. Eventually the two began a turf war in a few places where they met and the Bryopsis lost. Ive been fighting a 5 month war with Dictyota before I pulled all infested rock and placed it in a hospital tank in the garage. Total darkness for a month did the job and what was left in my system was wiped clean by both a long spine urchin and my Tang. It was a huge Pain in the rear to move all the rock and placement of corals was very difficult on my sandbed.

For all those that are battling some form of rampant algae, dont give up! You'll figure it out one way or another. I almost gave up and Im glad I didnt. It wont stay a salad bar forever.

[Bullredchaser]

My red emerald crab ate all my Dicyota and wiped it out.

[Nicholo]

Is this the beginning of Bryopsis?
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/573477066_algae_s_.jpg
*****
It's a new tank (30g total), but stocked with fully cured LR (~30-35lbs) and several cups of LS (to go with the new southdown). Lots of tiny pods on the glass. In the 10g sump, there is a small fuge area with LR rubble, LS and big clumps of chaeto. I have a SeaClone that I just started up that isn't doing much yet. So I have some degree of nutrient export, and I'm changing 4g every week. It's been ammonia free for two weeks now, and its first inhabitant (except for snails and hermits) is a cleaner shrimp that appears to be doing well.

Also, as far as size is concerned, those are grains of southdown at the base of the algae in the pic...

[quaz]

I don't know if this has been mentioned yet because I didn't want to read all 4 pages.

I manage a Reef maintenance business in my city. With people who know little to nothing about waste, nutrient, and chemical balance it's hard for them to understand what and how to feed, dose and so forth......... thus we get nitrates, phosphates and great amounts of disolved organics. Perfect fertalizer.

My proven method. THE NUKE.

step
1. mix a high (dead sea salt solution) 1.070 or higher spc grav. in a five gal bucket with a power head

2. syphon 2 gal tank water into a nother container for scrubbing

3. carefull to remove coral from rock. Or just to avoid. Scrub the ever loving life out of the rock.

4. Once clean put into dead sea salt water. (if coral is attached to rock just place back in tank scrubbed and clean)

5. Let rock sit in super salt water for 5 or so minutes. then take it out and put in a dry bucket.

6. do this with all your rock with hair algae. Clean all noticable hair algae from tank.

7. replace rock (carefull not to raise salinity from accumulated salt on rock)

8. Add snail, crabs, urchins, lettice nudibranchs,

9. add organics sponges, adsorbants.

10. enjoy... be carefull with nutrient overload.

[killagoby]

How's about a fuge w/ Cheateo and Mineral Mud in it to get rid of it?

[Shadow Tempter]

Killa goby, would the mineral mud feed the stuff in the tank also?

[killagoby]

It is supposed to provide essential elements to your corals, help with nitrate removal, and pods will live in it so it should help feed the tank.

[quaz]

A refugium is a great way to redirect some of the nutrients that would normally feed bryopsis. I have mine on a 24hr light so that it takes in maxium nutrients. Under high light and high flow the Cheata morpha grows great and takes in a lot of organics. But, you know, hair algae is the Devil and will persist with the smallest amount of nutrients available. :)

[alrha]

my blue tuxedo urchin seems to have been making progress on clearing some out. and because he "scrubs" my rock, it doesnt grow back in his path.

[killagoby]

My tank is a 29 gallon. Would a Cherub Angel do the trick?

[GABONE]

What are your thoughts on CaribSea's Phos Buster as a method of reducing phosphates. Has anyone used this product, and what results did they have?

[GABONE]

Anyone?

[GABONE]

BTW nice Photos

[prezioso73]

anyone ever try a coil-denirtator in the HA battle?

[GABONE]

I have made denitrators in the past with good results. I built them the same way you would a sand filter, but replace the sand with Zeolite.

[yourreeftank]

I bought 100 mexican turbos and it was gone in a week.

[lossman]

We have 4 spots of hair algae growing in our 150g. One is on this giant tunicate. It looks like a beard. Sorry for the poor pictures but my camera just does not do justice to this (either that or I am just a rotten photographer.)

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/561/79191Img3825.JPG

The other just showed up yesterday on this bivalve.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/561/79191Img3824.JPG

Again, just a little beard. The other two areas are at the back of the tank behind a rock and in between two rocks in the middle of the tank. None of the rocks are small enough to remove from the tank so I have just been plucking it. We have lots of macro both in the fuge and in the main tank so I'm hoping that the good macro will outcompete the hair algae and it will not get any worse.

[Opcn]

reaching way back high flow isn't really contributing to bryopsis spread, but high flow keeps algea clean and brings in nutrient rich water, just like how it helps chaeto.

Personally I wish I had bryopsis, I all but whiped it out with hermits nerite and astrea snails and a letuce nudi, now I'm worried about everyone starving as the only algea left is red slime cyano, some of my hermits eat it though, I yanked most of my chaeto to try and give bryopsis more nutrients but its just feeding the red slime, unfortunate.

[lossman]

Opcn, want some of mine??? I have a really lovely patch growing on a bivalve. :) The tunicate is finally clear, the other areas are not spreading, nor are they receding. I did notice that all the green ha is on one half of my tank. The other half has none. Water flow and light seems to be identical on both halves, at least in many spots. Not sure why the ha likes the right side of the tank better than the left.

[XeniaMania]

http://www.techssentials.com/cespitularia.jpg
You can see bits of the algae in this image. My tank at one point was covered with it, like dense patches. I bought a sailfin tang which didn't help much, nor did my Atlantic Blue. I decided to become a tang and manually removed as much as I could since they were dense patches they came off easily. I have a micron sock on my intake so it catches whatever's flying around and I hope it catches the spores too since feeding plankton in my tank clogs my micron sock. I have since then lowered my nitrates down to near 0 if not 0, and phospates are undetectable. The growth has gone away in some areas but high light areas still continue to be a problem area. But they do seem to be dying I installed a mesh screen on my intake part to see what's collected when I do nothing, and that gets clogged overnight. I am gradually seeing less and less, so I believe my refugium is finally gaining the upper hand.

[Me No Nemo]

Well, I finally found a natural solution. I purchased a Hawaiian Sea Hare. In just 2 days he has completely desimated a bryopsis nightmare I had in my 125 gallon. I've been battling this for months now. I do feed alot...my tank is full of hundreds of sps frags and under the shelve it was like an over grown lawn. This guy is not for the feint of heart or small of tank. He's a monster (rightly named Godzilla). I will be sharing him with my customers who have the same problem as I am now feeding him Nori banded to a rock. He's about as big as an individual coke bottle and surprisingly moves through the tank without wreaking much havoc. I would not suggest this though for a tank under 100 gallons as his size would probably be a problem. GL, Marcye

[aquaholic33]

me no nemo can you show me a pic of the sea horse? I would love to see what he/she looks likes

[Paul B]

I trhink you mean "sea Hare"
Here is mine.
It's the thing right in the center that looks like a rock.
Paul

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/13094sea_hare_4.jpg

[Opcn]

Interestingly enought I aclimated two sailfin Mollies and they went gang busters on all the filimentous and slime algeas in my tank for a few days, then slowed down, I have been feeding thwem high protein sources to balance out the massive veggie load they took in and they are starting to pick up again (they are small, only 2.5 and 3 inches, still growning and need protein to do so)

[XeniaMania]

I got a Red Sea Sailfin tang aka Desjardini Tang, and it's been mowning the stuff down..:D

[GSchiemer]

We're talking about Bryopsis algae folks. Sailfin mollies, sailfin tangs and most sea slugs will NOT help control Bryopsis algae.

Greg

[XeniaMania]

Most will not, but I happen to have one that likes the stuff..:D Shoot, mine even likes the brown algae/diatom pieaces that come off the tank when I'm scraping.

[XeniaMania]

This is for the non-believers that a Sailfin tang and low Nitrate/Phosphate combo won't work. These results were acheived in 2 months. No snail, no hermits in my tank.
http://www.techssentials.com/before.jpg
http://www.techssentials.com/after.jpg
http://www.techssentials.com/april2.jpg

[GSchiemer]

That sure looks like Bryopsis in the picture. Sometimes Bryopsis just crashes and dies back for no apparent reason. It's either that or you really do have the one and only Sailfin Tang that eats Bryopsis. :)

[XeniaMania]

LOL...maybe I am 1 lucky reefer...but if you look above, I did also have another sailfin previously who didn't touch it, so ya, hopefully some of you can get lucky too and I mean it in a fishy way...:D

[alrha]

didnt you also add Seachem's deNitrate to your tank?

[XeniaMania]

Yes I do run Denitrate to control my nitrate levels, but my most recent posts were more about my Sailfin eating bryopsis, it won't even touch caluerpa, I think I need to culture Bryopsis for it..lol

[alrha]

lol, i'm sure you'll be able to find donors

[XeniaMania]

Rock cleaning service...lol "Tang will clean your rocks for frags.."

[Lunchbucket]

hmm...i can't figure out what iwll get rid of it in my tank :(

Lunchbucket

[XeniaMania]

If you were local, my Sailfin provides rock cleaning service for frags. It's true, I contracted the help of my tang..:lol:

[Lunchbucket]

only bad part is it is in a 58gal :(

Lunchbucket

[shoddyk]

How does the Fiji Rabbitfish (Siganus uspi) do with corals in the tank. I am starting to get a little hair algae in my 125 reef and want to kill it before it spreads. I have lots of zoa's, softies, and lps corals.

[HowardW]

Not sure if this is true or not, but I've read that the aggressive use of carbon for several weeks or more can sometimes slow down its growth and prevent it from taking over your tank.

[RonD]

as this thread is loaded with info I am still in the middle of reading but it made me fear my my life.. here is a picture of some algae that is hanging in my display, off of a loc line.. its only in the one spot in the tank and I have cut it back but I was wondering if its a nasty that perhaps i should be killing rather that culturing??? thanks for any help

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v672/RonDronD/Aquarium/IMG_1126.jpg

[Lunchbucket]

why not pull out that lockline and nuke it w/ some heat, kalk, or soemthign else of the such

if it is only one spot it would be easy to get rid of

Lunchbucket

[RonD]

So by saying that... this a nasty then ???

Thanks alot :)

[DNA]

Got myself a Foxface and now I have none.

[roxy25]

I have read this WHOLE thread and I am a little confused on some of the info.

I have a nano tank right now that is filled with ALGAE and its HAIR ALGAE

I justed finished cycling maybe 2 weeks ago. SO luckly I have nothing in there but some snails.

The reason I got hair algae is from Phoshates I was used sparklettes distilled water to fill up the tank and I believe this is the brand that brought phosphates into my tank.

Right now I am running Phosguard

Anyways what I am confused on is the natural way to get rid of this stuff.

I have people telling me different things and I want to get things staright before I buy anything else.

Lettuce Nudi
Sea Hare
Turbo snails
mower Blenny

which one actually works if you say it does not work please only say so if you have tried it or witness any of these animals in person.

If you say one of those animals does work how many and how fast did they do the job.

when I went to my LFS they tried to sale me a sea hair but once I saw how big and UGLY it was I didn't buy it. but I have read they work?


I have 4 snails right now in my 8 gallon

they are 2 ceriths, 1 astrea,1 black turbo

I plan to get a mexican turbo and a few more snails. the astrea snail really is eating this stuff and so is the black turbo. but they are losing the battle lol.


I am also going to upgrade to a truvu 10gal next week.

please give suggestions thanks
:D

[roxy25]

o yeah I will post a pic later I think my tank is the worst case of Hair Algae ever in history

[Paul B]

Roxy, I have good and bad news for you. Those animals you mention will not help with your algae problem. A lot of people will tell you that one of those things will eat all of that algae but it's not going to happen. I raised over 100 Lettuce slugs and they do not eat the stuff. Sea hares may eat some as will all of those animals but not as fast as it is growing. I have been doing this longer than anyone here so I am not without some experience. Let the stuff keep growing and try to pull out as much as you can. It is common in a new tank. Eventually, it will exhaust any nutrients it needs to grow and it will die off in about two days. Those creatures may make the process longer. After it is gone you can add some snails or all of those animals if you like but it will leave on it's own. Thats the reason people believe their algae bleeny ate all their algae, it disappears by itself. Of course, if you overfeed you will get it back.
You have to remove it by hand otherwise it will keep dying and in the process it will keep fertilizing itself and keep growing.
Paul

[Phiche Master]

Roxy dont let it use up all the nutrients in the water.....I tried that,takes WAY too long. Since you have nothing in the tank just take out all the rocks, assuming it hasnt taken root in the glass or sand yet, and let them dry out....killing the plant. If it is in the glass and or sand just drain the tank and start over.....and yes dont use sparkletts....if you are gunna use non-homemade RO/DI water, buy the "distilled water" it has 0 ppm tds and fill the tank after everything is dried out. Hot water in a syringe also works very well, but for a serious outbreak as you have discribed, just dry it out. Bryopsis can sustain itself with nothing for months....Ive tested. So can chaeto.....actually when you cycle your tank the next time get some chaeto it will absorb the nitrates and phosphates as well it colonizing your tank with bacteria and mb even critters depending on the source. PS the Foxface will eat all the bryopsis but doesnt really like it....will eat every other plant in the tank before going after the bryopsis. The bryopisis will still have roots in the rocks and continue to grow, but if the foxface remains he will keep in in check. Nudis cant eat it fast enough, nor do they prefer it and since they are so small and hard to care for they will rarely cure the problem. I have run an aquarium maintenance co in dallas for many years now and have seen everything I think. Wow DNA you only have 700+ posts...I remember when you had the tank of the month. You must be like me and never post and/or never go on the site. Peace all~Joshua

[Shadow Tempter]

I agree completely with Paul B. - and do not dry your live rocks. You will end up killing all the "live" critters & bacteria thats has now established itself during the cycle causing your nitrates to spike fertilizing the algae.

And I would also do 20% water changes every other day the dilute the sparkletts water.

Here's what I did to win the bryopsis battle
1. Manual Removal and puttied over the rocks that I've cleaned out.
2. Started a refugium (chaeto) to help compete with the bryopsis.
3. No water changes for 2 months - nutrient depletion, I'm convinced that the bryopsis was absorbing other nutrients besides phosphates and nitrate.
4. added a foxface lo - this guy ate the bryopsis that was left in the tank within 2 weeks.
5. chemical filtration - rowaphos & chemipur carbon.

For a nano, you might just want to drop the ball of chaeto in there and/or add a tiny foxface lo (you will eventually have to give him up when he gets big)

Goodluck.

[Paul B]

Sorry Roxy but you see you will get more opinions that you need.
By the way Nudibranches eat no algae, none, zippo, zilch. They are carnivores. Slugs eat algae and nothing else. Lettuce "slugs"
really don't "eat" anything, they suck the chloroplasts out of bryopsis. There is no such thing as a lettuce nudi.
Good luck.
Paul
I wrote this a few years ago

http://www.breedersregistry.org/Articles/baldassano2004/SolarPoweredSlug.htm

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/13094Elysia_Crispata_002_small.jpg

[Phiche Master]

Yup drying out the LR will definately kill the "live" and cause a nutirent spike in the next cycle. Thats why the chaeto. And since youll be adding corals, the rocks that the corals come on will come with the critters that will populate the rock. I dont really care what you do, I m just telling you I ve dealt with massive outbreaks probably 60 times and this way is the fastest most dependable way to elim the problem and get the reef beautiful. O yea I almost forgot....dont put the chaeto in there with the hair algae still there, it will take up root in the chaeto as well. Peace

[roxy25]

Thanks for all the HONEST replies. I hate to waist money on more critters that will not eat this stuff.

I got sick of looking @ it last nice and I pulled off a lot by hand. its like 4 inches long! and it just waves back in forth lol.

it is on the glass and sand but not so much on the sand. I pulled out a lot a few weeks ago and I pretty much cleared the sand bed.

As for the sparklettes water it was distilled water. and I am pretty sure I have gotton all of that water out by now. I have been doing water changes and I started this tank May 14/06.

The snails are working but some of the algae is too high for them and it is growing too fast. 2 of my snails cleared up a big patch on one of the two bigger rocks I have. The astrea snails is on a roll.

I am going to just scrub the rock on sunday. I do not want to dry my rock out. I might as well buy new rock if i do that, and start a new cycle.

My main concern is when I transfer the water and rock to the new tank. After I scrub the rock and do two dips can I use the water from the old tank? I will be adding 2-3 gallons of new water along with more snails. If I use all new water wouldn't that start a new cycle? I do not want to kill my snails.

[roxy25]

I have also ordered some chaeto from a local but it was supposed to come yesterday and it was shipped on thursday. now it says monday fro delivery. I am assuming it will be dead when it comes

[Daemonfly]

I had a bryopsis outbreak (new tank bloom). Got my DIY skimmer up & running, and the bryopsis started to get under control.

Nice thing is that the pods are actually eating all the bryopsis now. They're not eating the main "stalk", but all the fine fronds are completely stripped clean. They're deffinately eating it, not just hanging out on it. These are the common ones you usually find crawling on the glass eating algae film, 6-8 or so legs on each side (isopods?).

[Lunchbucket]

i've been using AZNO3 in an attempt to eat up any nitrate i can so it won't grow. i'm also changing out my po4 remover every 3wks or so. the bryopsis has come to a halt (mostly) and in some areas is GONE! oh i've been using Prodibio too. not sure which caused this or if it was all of it. it grows the best on my sand now and in the LR it pulls out way easier and doesn't come back really. i think i'm limiting all the nutrients for it and it is loosing the battle! haven't pulled it in 2wks or more and it only needs to be pulled on the sand. seems like after i pull it's gone. i'm liking it

Lunchbucket

[killagoby]

If I can recall correctly my Diadema Urchen ate my hair algae...

[swimboy123]

Tuxedo urchins did it for me

[Claeth]

I own my own aquarium maintenance business, and the answer that everyone has been looking for to remove bryopsis from their systems is the addition of multiple convict tangs. They will eliminate any and all vegetation from the aquarium, including macroalgaes as tough as Halimeda!!! Trust me, it will work for you too. I have been using this method for over 5 years now, and my customers LOVE my services for their beautiful algae free tanks. Thats our secret, shhhhh!

[angmoh]

i'm wondering will pods finish up those broypsis ?

currently my tank has no fish but some softies and a pair of shrimps...

pods are multiplying everyday. i know pods are feed on algae.

if i maintain this, wondering will pods finish up all the broypsis over the coming months ?

[roxy25]

Well I would like to update everyone

I just ordered more astrea snails and these cat eye snails from marine depot and one mex turbo

all algae GONE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[vest0830]

Wow, I just spent about an hour reading everyones posts in this. I myself am having issues with this stuff.

I have read people doing a few things to help rid it:
~Just let it go until it litterly starves itself, dont do any water changes

~add a lawnmower blenny

~foxface rabbit fish

~urchin

~manually remove

~create a 'dip' and remove all rocks and clean them (another form of maual removal)

~some are having lluck with various snails /slugs, but that seems to be a hit or miss kinda thing.


Of all of the things mentioned, it seems the blenny, the slug and the urchin seems to be the way to go, as more people who posted said these worked for them. I myself am having issues with brypopis at the momoent in my tank, and I will be adding a blenny and a urchin tommorow.
I would add the slug, but my LFS said they would run around $70 for one, (the price goes down the more I get) and that IMO is going to be the last resort.

[angmoh]

i'll rated foxface No.1 in consuming bryopsis algae.

urchin will do more harm then good, cos they always trip down all the corals and tuxedo urchins eat coralline algae!

[Me No Nemo]

I've also found the yellow, Hawaiin Sailfin mows the stuff down, if it isn't too long. I wouldn't suggest one for a 55 gallon though. I have the most luck with Large Mexican Turbos, the large Hawaiian Sea Hare, Trochus Grazers and Rabbits. Bristle tooth (Koles and the like) Blennies will scrape some, but only the very short stuff and they don't seem to make a huge dent in it.

[vest0830]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8115203#post8115203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by angmoh
i'll rated foxface No.1 in consuming bryopsis algae.

urchin will do more harm then good, cos they always trip down all the corals and tuxedo urchins eat coralline algae!

yes, the urchin will knock everything down, but IMO its a small price to pay to rid this nuscense. I have little to no chorline in the tank, so that im not worried about.

[Eric Boerner]

Simply put, you cannot "expect" ANY live critter to take care of your algae problem with the exception of algae grazing snails & hermits. But to nail down a significant problem, you need to throw hundreds of them at it.

I have experienced non-eating: Blenny, Yellow Tang, Sailfin Tang, Foxface, Rabbitfish, Kole Tang, Powder Blues, Pygmie Angel... All of them refuse to eat hair algae and only eat flakes... Stop feeding flakes and they'd rather starve themselves to death despite the 3 month supply of hair algae on the rock...

I've found turbo and margarita snails do the job best, but wind up dying off fairly quick. Plus they are damn expensive these days. Margarita's are in the $2 a pop these days, and turbos are around $1 ea, but tend to have a 1 month life cycle at the size they're shipping at. Kinda pricey...

[Paul B]

Eric I have been trying to tell people that for many years but it seems to be falling on deaf ears. I gave up.
Paul

[angmoh]

any pics of turbo and margarita snails ?

i used to have alot of snails, but somehow i dont find them effective... perhaps the amount of snails i'm having is too little ? or i'm getting the wrong snails to tackle my algae problem?

[vest0830]

A friend of mine had a tank disaster and and decided to take his tank down. He had some goodies, and I went and got them.

A blue tang, some clowns, a few turbo snails, and a few other things.

Everything went into the tank last night around 8, the lights went off at 9:15, they werent on before I left for work this morning as they turn on at 10. I just went home and checked the tank/stock at lunch time (about an hour ago) and half of the bryopis is gone. The tang seemed to be pokin at it. Something ate it, I dont know if its a combo of the snails, the tang, just the sails, IDK. I did see the tang going to town though. They must have full stomachs cause they went to town on that stuff. Litterly probably 12 hours.

So my battle has begun. I wanted to pick up a few new inhabitants early in the week, but havent been able to.






<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8143020#post8143020 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by angmoh
any pics of turbo and margarita snails ?

i used to have alot of snails, but somehow i dont find them effective... perhaps the amount of snails i'm having is too little ? or i'm getting the wrong snails to tackle my algae problem?

I dont see most of my snails while the lights are on. They all come out after dark. Go searching with a flashlight after the lights have gone out for about an hour or 2.

[vest0830]

My bryopsis is almost gone. I would say 80% gone. Another 48 hours and it will be gone I think.

I also gotta add, I started my fuge with a small ball of chaeto. The Chaeto went in yesterday.

I would have to say its a combo of added snails, crabs and the tang.

[angmoh]

i heard that cheato is one of the best algae which wont turn asexual right ?

[graveyardworm]

Cheato doesnt go sexual the same way caulerpa does. What it does do however is it begins to fragment into small pieces.

[vest0830]

I would like to update, I would say my battle is over.

I will try to get a before (if I can find one) and after photo of my tank.

I have a few tiny patches around the tank, but considering what it was before and what it is now is a night and day difference.

[Lunchbucket]

so what ate it vest??

Lunchbucket

[blazzent]

I've seen two fish listed here that seem to eat bryopsis: a fox face lo and a yellow tang. Which of the two would you recommend as the best?

[blazzent]

Correction to my first: a blue tang not yellow tang

[vest0830]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8181587#post8181587 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
so what ate it vest??

Lunchbucket

Well, to summerize my little battle, my thoughts were this from the get go..

1. get a lawnmower blenny
2. get a urchin
3. stop water changes
4. more snails

and I was going to do all of this. I was going to go out and pick up a urchin at low tide, and go buy a blenny. I hadnt had the time to go out at low tide, or meet with the LFS before they closed, but a freind was giving away some stuff, so I went and got this things. He give me a blue tang some snails and some crabs. (and a mated pair of clows :))

instantly the tang started munching on that stuff. I mean it was litterly within min's of putting him in the tank that he started eating it. I woke up the next morning to find him going to town on it, and over a period of about a week, I would say I have won the battle. I must also add that I started my refugium with a small ball of chaeto in the mix also. I never have yet added the the blenny, the urchin, and I plan to do a water change this weekend. I did add a few more snails, a few turbos and various other snails.

Dont get me wrong, I do still have a few small (tiny) patches around the tank, but considering a few weeks ago I almost cried looking at my tank and looking at it now is a night and day difference.

I was just going through a few pictures trying to find the before and after, I dont have any before in my gallery (and im now at work, so I cant go looking through my HD) but in my gallery I found this. my tang eating...

the stuff along the backwall is gone. its almost clear again.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/100321Sept_16_004.jpg

[Lunchbucket]

why would you stop doing water changes??

Lunchbucket

[vest0830]

Someone in this thrad had mentioned that the algae is feeding on the "excess" nutrients in the water. Not doing water changes would essencially cause the algae to starve itself.

[Claeth]

not doing water changes will only add nitrates to make them grow faster.

[Lunchbucket]

vest - you have it backwards. algae won't grow in clean nutrient poor water like a brand new water change. fish poop, detritus, etc are the nutrients it feeds off of...not the elements in fresh water change water

disolved organics in the water make it grow faster. remember the solution to polution is dilusion (hence water changes to dilute it)

Lunchbucket

[vest0830]

thanks for makin me feel like a moron.
I needed it.

my bryopis is 100% gone. Couldnt find any in the tank tonight.

[Lunchbucket]

lucky you!!

Lunchbucket

[saltyray]

I had my 120 set up in February. I went out, after the cycle and bought many neat things like clams, and fish and corals. One piece had some green algae on it that I thought the new sailfin would eat. I was wrong and now 6 months with the bryopsis, as I have learned what it is, is killing me. I am doing 40 gallon water changes every other weekend. It is not slowing at all. Before every water change my wife, bless her, and I hand pull as much of this nasty nuisance as possible. I have also invested in a nudibranch. He eats it alright but i would probably need a hundred to get control and then when you get control they die and then the bryopsis does not have anything to eat it it so it comes back.... sorry got carried away. I do not have a skimmer but I am looking at the ASM website for when currently. Does it make sense at this point to tear the tank down and scrub the rocks and sand with a slight bleach mixture and then set it all up again or will the skimmer make my life better. I just want to know there is light at the end of the tunnel.

[b_mattias]

if that is what I have (looks just like it) my large turbo snails eat it.

[angmoh]

i found the best way to remove bryopsis algae is to invest on a yellow tang + foxface + manual pluck.

yellow tang and foxface will refrain any new grown bryopsis but u still hv to pluck off those long,matured bryopsis.

last but not least, good water parameters :)

[Lunchbucket]

angmoh - i just got a yellow tang about 2wks ago and much to my happiness he eats bryopsis!!! it seems that he won't eat it unless it is really short and right close to the rock. like if i just pull some seems like he eats the stubble that is left. he has not desimated the tank of it yhet but i think he is helping. by FAR my most priced fish right now. i hope manual plucking and him trimming will eventually get it out or not noticable. i can't believe how happy i am that i have that fish!!

i'm still doing eveyr other week water changes (20gal now), skimming hard, but feeding more to get my coral colors to come out more.

later
Lunchbucket

[angmoh]

Lunchbucket, precisely! I'm also very happy with my yellow tang!! i found that yellow tang loves bryopsis more than foxface (even though alot of them claimed that foxface is very good at clearing bryopsis)...

I'm surprised that no one here, neither anywhere or anyone propose/recommend yellow tang! i'v witnessed myself my yellow tang grazed off a bunch of bryopsis within one day! even the long ones! of course, i found that they still prefer short ones.

So now everyday i still pluck off any visible, long bryopsis alage each every other day. At least i can see that my bryopsis is under controlled with the help of yellow tang and foxface :)

hurrays! forget about snails, nudis, or whatever so... they are slow eaters! too slow!

[seamonkey2]

hmmm, I know that most of you do really hate hair algae and all its friends in your tanks, but I love it, I got a 215ga sea horse tank, with pipefish and I got lots and lots and lots (you get the point) of hair algae, culerpra and mexicana growing on the LR walls and returns loclines.

the thing is that all this algae hide hundreds upon hundreds of pods that my pipes feed upon, the hunt all day, the hover around the algae until they see one and BAM snack :)

I over feed my tank big time, when I first notice the hair algae I was going to remove it, but, yeah I know call me idiot, it looked cool to me, so I let it be, a couple of months later it was all over the back wall of the tank, then I said, "crap I got to get this thing under control", so I pull a hand full from the tank, and as I was going to dump it, I felt lots of creepy crawlers on my hand, so I took a closer look at it, and damn!!! copepods galore, by the hundreds, so I put it back, and ever since haven't touch it.

the culerpra has taken all of the floor of the tank and is about 6" tall, but the horses love it and the pipes hide in it

but there is an observation, I used to run 2 phospate remover reactors in this tank, but I stoped doing it, dont know why, 2 months ago, ever since, the hair algae has stop growing and is actually been over run by mexicana, wich if fine with me, but it just amazing that that alone happen, I do water changes every six months, and I run a skimmer one a week, any input on this?

Jose

[Ryanqk]

ok i have this problem i was thinking about taking all the desirable algaes out of my display temporarily, and putting them in the fuge, then introducing two small sea urchins and let them mow down my turf algae, once done they go back to the store and i re-plant my algaes. my phosphate is 0, nitrates a little high. Keep my fuge light on 24/7 as well. what do yall think?
Ryan

[daveverdo]

I just read this entire thread and still have a big problem and a bigger question. Are there any small fish that will eat this stuff? I only have 30g do things like a Foxface and tangs aren't going to make it unless someone wants to lend (or rent) me one for a few weeks.

I have a variety of snails, the ceriths are useless, I have 5 Trochus and 3 Astrea, 1 of those 8 eats it but 1 alone is losing the battle.

Any small fish? Even if they only eat a little its will help, I guess. This is the first tank I even had this kind of problem with. It is only in its early stages but I want to nip it in the bud(as the saying goes).

Dave

[Sugar Magnolia]

I'm in the same boat Dave, 30 gallon hair algae farm. I'm considering buying a baby yellow tang to munch on the algae for a couple of weeks, then trading him back in.

[Opcn]

http://www.etropicals.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=43&pCatId=1303

On sale too, Get two of them, only the small ones really deal with filimentous algaes, obviously not a fish.

[Kinetic]

i bought two turbos and two lettuce "nudi's" recently to fight my hair algae, and the lettuce nudi's climbed onto the hair algae and laid eggs, then dissapeared.

the turbos ate some algae and got full and stopped moving.

... not the greatest.

my late emerald grab used to eat hair/bubble like mad. but once he died the hair algae kept coming (he died because the tank was cleaned out by him). He started eating gobies, armor of gods, acropora colonies, and such, but eventually i had to feed algae tablets twice daily to him. eventually he didn't get enough food (i left for long vacations) and died.

sad, but kind of good since I might be able to keep gobies now and zoos.

I was going to try an urchin, but found out that they may scratch acrylic with their mouths =(

manually pulling, running dual oversized skimmers, isn't helping.

i have about 80x turnover in the tank.

one day I'll figure it out...

[MadCoral]

!!! Just add alittle Vodka every morning, and every night, up the dose till its gone, keep it up for a few days, then slowly bring it down so you dont have a huge bacteria dieoff. Ive never seen a problem with my sps, or anything else, and so far for me it works.
"If one day you see alittle green growing, get your fish drunk!" :)

[GROSSR]

What does the vodka do to the Bryopsis? How does it react to the algea, also do you have a fuge with any other algea? If so, what happened their?

rich

[graveyardworm]

The vodka provides a carbon source for bacteria, which in turn bind up phosphates and nitrates making it exportable by skimming. Hope I got that right its been awhile since I've read up on vodka dosing.

[graveyardworm]

You'll find alittle more specific info here (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=984007&highlight=vodka)

[GROSSR]

I guess before I break down the take it is something worth trying. Maybe in a year, if I can't get this licked. Sounds scarry.

rich

[DNA]

Here is an incredible story on this thing.

I have Bryopsis in a few spots around the tank that just refuse to go away so I bring in a Foxface and I remove a medium sized infested rock and let it dry out for weeks.

The Foxface eats all the Bryopsis and dies after being in the tank for a few months. 4-5 more months pass and there is no sign of the evil algae. Then the tank suffers from high nitrate and guess what. Bryopsis is back in all the usual spots and even the dryed out rock gets infested again in a flash.

This thing is sure to thrive in outer space.

[imnata]

Can somebody ID this macroalgea? Is it Bryiopsis?


http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n297/imnata/13Marec2007_crv/bryopsis.jpg

[graveyardworm]

Check out the Algae slideshow (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/reefslides/index.php)

Welcome to Reef Central

[Claeth]

looks like it to me.. good luck. I would suggest a convict tang. its your best bet. Emerald crabs are also known to graze on it. I have it in my system, very hard to get rid of, but luckily it grows fairly slowly, so its not hard to keep pruned back by hand if you keep your PO4 levels down. try to keep it centralized in one area if possible, and if you don't prune it inside the tank, it shouldnt spread to the rest of the tank. Move the rock into a refugium if you can, there you can let it grow and be a good thing. hope this helps.

[imnata]

Thanks for the welcome and for the tips.

I got some divided opinion on whether I have Bryopsis or not, so I decided to check here with you guys.

[Gman1978]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=1570617#post1570617 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lesd
The vast majority of fish will ignore Bryopsis. I have Tangs who devour normal hair algae and caulerpa, but won't touch Bryopsis.

Some people have had success with rabbitfish. I've heard better stories about orange-spotted and doliatus rabbitfish than the common foxface. However, even that is hit or miss.

My problem is that I can't even use Lettuce slugs. I have too much flow in my tank and they just end up getting blown around and sucked into the overflow.

Phosphate removers (aluminum based ones) really make my leather corals unhappy.

So right now I'm just manually removing as much Bryopsis as I can, and it's steadily spreading all throughout my tank. Hopefully when I move the tank next month I can scrub down all the rocks and make a real dent in it.

Anybody tried a plethora of tuxedo or other urchins?

I have a 75gal that I just started 3 weeks ago. I used 80 pounds of cured tonga rock and then all of a sudden-wham. I have a lawn on the live rock. It is predominately on the top of the live rock,not the sides, or the sand yet.

My snails have been useless and cannot right themselves if they are in the sand beds. However, they are making good work of the grass.

With regards to urchins, I bought a pin cushion urchin who has now started mowing this stuff down for the first time tonight. Once my light comes on tomorrow I will take a closer look and see what he ate. I can also post a pic for you to confirm that my tank lawn is the same stuff...
-- Lesd

[Jimbo327]

Hair Algae is like cockroaches. You can destroy and kill them all on the surface, then it just comes back in numbers over time, and laugh in your face.

[kypatriot]

I have this crap in my 'fuge and tank, along with gracilaria and caulerpa in my fuge.

If I tried to use an urchin to controlling this stuff, could I put it in the 'fuge, or would it just feast on all my macro?

[Me No Nemo]

If it's hair algae, not bryopsis, a cleanup crew consisting of Trochus Grazers (they can right themselves better than astrea snails...which, IMO, are a waste of money, and the trochus will clean the rock as well as the glass); Mexican Turbo snails; Fighting Conchs which are excellent detritious cleaners and Cortez Mexican Hermit Crabs...great algae eaters. Also, a couple of Atlantic cucumbers and some of the large Tongan Nassarius snails. One of these is equal, IMO, to about 10 of the small vibex nassarius. Also, if phosphates are a problem, there are two great ways to remove them: a phosphate reactor...pretty inexpensive for the long run with Phosban as the agent or the Tropic Marin Elimi-phos. I've had excellent results with both. HTH.

[dendro982]

What about removing bryopsis, growing on the coral?

I have it on the Christmas tree rock, 10g unskimmed tank, micron sock only, changed daily. The water parameters are not bad, "thanks" to bryopsis, but still have 5 ppm NO3 and 0-25ppm PO4, now added Rowaphos.

The tank is heavily fed - for Christmas tree worms, scleronephthya and blueberry, swiftia and fine blue gorgonians.

Plucked it away - next week all the same, tried to apply kalkwasser paste, that I'm using for eliminating aiptasia, on the big patches. But it runs onto live coral tissue and kills it. Turbo snails didn't helped at all.

I will re-do the system hopefully within month, it will be with skimmer, but still well fed.

Are there other option for live corals, other than manual removing (no siphoning - nowhere to siphon) and removing nitrates and phosphates?

[kypatriot]

You should check out this thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1113109

[dendro982]

Excellent idea! Thank you.

[aninjaatemyshoe]

I'm having my first outbreak of this crap right now. What's odd is that it is only growing on the glass and my tunzes, none to be seen on the rocks. It's very odd, but I guess I'm not complaining. It can't really do much damage where it is now. What is preventing it from growing on the rocks?

[kypatriot]

It grows on the glass and overflow box in my tank too. None really on the rocks, but in my other tank, it's only on the rocks.

Do you have a fish or snails that could be eating it off the rocks?

The Tech-M trick works wherever it grows.

[aninjaatemyshoe]

Yeah, I have snails, but they go on the glass too. Perhaps hermits are getting at it, but I've never seen them be this efficient at it. I mean there is absolutely none on my rocks.

[dendro982]

In Advanced forum (if I'm not mistaken) is a thread "Fast solution for Bryopsis", the same treatment, only applied locally.
Doesn't work with Seachem Advantage Calcium (Mg sulfate). But after a couple of months bryopsis disappears from porous surfaces (coral), and continue to grow in a high flow, even in unfed low light tank.

:D May be copper from TechM kills it?:D

[dendro982]

Even 3 weeks of TechM didn't killed or significantly reduced the feathery bryopsis.

[Claeth]

Ive found the only way to remove it completely is to consider the rock its growing on dead, a sign of Old Tank Syndrome, (which should be called old rock syndrome), and literally remove it from the main system or put it in the dark part of a sump for a long time. It's easier to replace the rocks with fresh from the ocean ones, than to use chemicals to treat the system for it. not to mention new rocks add new life, and Old rocks work just fine in dark sumps. don't have enough sump for it? get a bigger sump! Dilution is the solution to the pollution.

[Paul B]

My tank with the rocks has been set up and running continousely since 1971. The rocks are the same as when Nixon was President. I have no bryopsis and never have.
When does Old Tank Syndrome kick in?

[conorwynne]

When your tank is 50 Paul. It's still young (same age as me).

You will never get bryopsis unless you
1. introduce it
2. feed it.

I'm not sure I agree with the old tank syndrome either.

Conor.

[Paul B]

My tank still has 12 years to go to reach fifty.
I think thats when "Old Tank Syndrome" kicks in

[kypatriot]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12535056#post12535056 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Claeth
Ive found the only way to remove it completely is to consider the rock its growing on dead, a sign of Old Tank Syndrome, (which should be called old rock syndrome), and literally remove it from the main system or put it in the dark part of a sump for a long time.

Except in my tank, the stuff grows on the glass, overflow box, powerheads, and thermometer probe - not on the rocks. This theory would mean that I should toss the glass tank and all the equipment, keeping my rocks.

I don't buy the old tank theory at all. I can tell you the day this stuff entered my tank - I did it on purpose, because I thought it was a kind of caulerpa that my tangs would like to eat. It has been there since, and incredibly hard to eliminate.

Tech-M worked for a while, but I don't think I completed the treatment. It was definitely killing the stuff off, but as soon as it started, I quit adding it, and the bryopsis returned with a vengance.

[conorwynne]

I killed mine off by

1. cooking rock
2. Dosing high amounts of magnesium (above 1400PPM)
3. Running phosban
4. Feeding way less to keep nutrients down.

Now I have none whatsoever. Well, alomst none, none to speak of I should say. I don't have enough CUC -- only three snails, and two are babies :-)

One of these days I'll get more. And maybe a fish or two. maybe.

[lossman]

We seem to go through cycles with this. I can't seem to find a rhyme or reason for it. It grows on this rock but not that rock. It grows on these snail shells but not those. It grows in high flow areas and then in low flow areas. It grows when we have a high number of CUC and then when we have only a few left. It grows in the main tank but not in the sump, then in the sump but not in the main tank. Then, for no reason whatsoever, it disappears, only to reappear a year down the road. After almost 4 years and numerous cycles of this hair algae, I've come to accept it as part of the normal cycle. I'll pluck it and pull it and scrub it off the hydors as it gets too long, but since we have been lucky enough for it to never have gotten overwhelming, I don't sweat it as much as I did way back when. I sometimes even enjoy the color it adds to the tank and the way it sways in the flow. And I really get a kick out of it when it grows thickly on a snail shell and watch that snail make it's way across the glass. :)

Of course, we have been blessed not to have been overwhelmed by hair algae. For those of you who have been, I truly feel for you!

[Corsu]

HI People. My name is Javier From Argentina.

Has anyone had this tipe of Algae? Or at least can tell me which is its name?

It is invading my reef and i dont know how to controll it.

Parameters

NO3 = 0
Ca 400
Mg 1250
Dkh= 7.5

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/jcorsu/P1010870.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/jcorsu/P1010810.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/jcorsu/P1010865.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/jcorsu/P1010873.jpg


Thanks
Javier

[azrednex]

Javier, it looks like "red turf" My sailfin tang eats it. I actually grow it on purpose in my overflow to feed to the sailfin.

[kypatriot]

My yellow tang eats it too.

I just came back from being on vacation for a week, so my tangs didn't get any nori while I was gone (I usually feed nori twice a day). Anyway, since they've been fed less, my tangs are now eating hair algae and bryopsis off my rocks. Guess I was feeding them too much before.

[The bull]

very nice job

[jack.pe]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8196233#post8196233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
vest - you have it backwards. algae won't grow in clean nutrient poor water like a brand new water change. fish poop, detritus, etc are the nutrients it feeds off of...not the elements in fresh water change water

disolved organics in the water make it grow faster. remember the solution to polution is dilusion (hence water changes to dilute it)

Lunchbucket

Theoretically you are absolutely right, however I have also heard that water changes can sometimes feed algae even if the water is "clean", i.e 0 on Nitrate and Phosphate, the theory being that there are other substances or minerals that come with the salt mix that are also feeding the algae. Not sure which substances or minerals these are supposed to be or if true but I have heard that before.

What frustrates me about this hobby is that there are so few definite answers and that so much ofit seems to be pot luck, such as someone having a perfect tank for years, nothing changing and then suddenly getting explosions of algae... we need more proper scientific reasearch and analisys so we can properly understand what really drives these suddend changes. Still love it though!:D

[Lunchbucket]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12886564#post12886564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jack.pe
Theoretically you are absolutely right, however I have also heard that water changes can sometimes feed algae even if the water is "clean", i.e 0 on Nitrate and Phosphate, the theory being that there are other substances or minerals that come with the salt mix that are also feeding the algae. Not sure which substances or minerals these are supposed to be or if true but I have heard that before.

What frustrates me about this hobby is that there are so few definite answers and that so much ofit seems to be pot luck, such as someone having a perfect tank for years, nothing changing and then suddenly getting explosions of algae... we need more proper scientific reasearch and analisys so we can properly understand what really drives these suddend changes. Still love it though!:D

I'd agree w/ that. Sometimes seems that after a water change is when my algae gets a burst of growth. I'm sure it sucks out some sort of nutrient and needs more which it gets by water changes

I tried the elevated Mg trick w/ Randies 2 part recipe. Got my Mg to 1700+ for a week or more and NO change in bryopsis. So I'm wondering if people are right about the Tech M having something in it that is affecting the bryopsis?

Lunchbucket

[kirkaz]

Hi folks....Just wondering what this is? Could it be Bryopsis? None of my current fish will eat it, I have a Sohal Tang coming Thursday, so we will see if he eats it. It has been very very slow growing over the past 3 or 4 months to its current length of about 6 or 7 inchs long in spots. I haven't really worried about as I think it looks good "whisping" in my PH flow.

Pic 1 no flashhttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/ksrobey/IMG_0672.jpg

Pic 2 with flash
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/ksrobey/IMG_0669.jpg

[conorwynne]

If this is the only place where the HA is growing, then consider removing that piece of rock and cooking it.

It may be leaching phosphates.

I had a similar problem and after cooking no HA has appeared on any other rocks. Mind you, 100% of my rock has been replaced with cooked rock.

Regards,
Conor

[SHOmuchFUN]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13042045#post13042045 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kirkaz
Hi folks....Just wondering what this is? Could it be Bryopsis? None of my current fish will eat it, I have a Sohal Tang coming Thursday, so we will see if he eats it. It has been very very slow growing over the past 3 or 4 months to its current length of about 6 or 7 inchs long in spots. I haven't really worried about as I think it looks good "whisping" in my PH flow.

Pic 1 no flashhttp://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/ksrobey/IMG_0672.jpg
I also have been battling this form of algae. I am losing unfortunately. :(

I'm curious if you've had any luck with it? I don't believe it's bryopsis though...

[emissary43]

orange spot rabbit fish huh, I might have to try that... just have to be careful not to spook in when my arm is in the tank

[sivert55]

I had that red turf stuff in a nano. I couldn't ever completely get rid of it. i finally had to take the affected rocks out and leave them in the hot summer sun for a week.

[Kissfan79]

How exactly does live rock leach phosphates? I understand the concept of leaching but how does the rock get "saturated" or loaded with phosphate to leach out? I am currently in the midst of my own hair algae war and will post pics to see if it is indeedn your average green hair algae or bryopsis. I know the causes of high phosphates but how does rock leach phosphates?

Thanks, Jim

[Paul B]

I have also heard that water changes can sometimes feed algae even if the water is "clean", i.e 0 on Nitrate and Phosphate, the theory being that there are other substances or minerals that come with the salt mix that are also feeding the algae. Not sure which substances or minerals these are supposed to be or if true but I have heard that before.

Actually I invented that idea about water changes fueling alga(sometimes) It is true that many people do not experience algae until they do a water change.

What frustrates me about this hobby is that there are so few definite answers and that so much of it seems to be pot luck, such as someone having a perfect tank for years, nothing changing and then suddenly getting explosions of algae... we need more proper scientific reasearch and analisys so we can properly understand what really drives these suddend changes. Still love it though!

Unfortunately if you are looking for scientific research here, you will not find it. This hobby is called ornamental fish keeping and being ornimental, there is no real money to be made researching it.
It ia a hobby and has as many variables as there are hobbiests.
Changing water can cause algae explosions depending on what was limiting the algae in the first place.
If there is absolutely no iron in your water, algae will not grow but if you add iron through a water change, it can grow. There also can be some nitrates and phosphates in your make up water.
The best way to remove algae causing chemicals, is, unfortunately, to grow algae.
Hair algae is very good at removing unwanted nutrients, of course we don't want the hair algae either but if we do not change water and let the HA remove the nutrients, it will die. When it dies we can remove it because if it rots in the water, the cycle will start again.
It is a shame but HA actually makes the water healthier. The best solution is to provide a place for the algae to grow where it has better growing conditions than your tank. I use a shallow trough right under my main reef lighting.
I know that you will hear all sorts of opinions on how to eliminate algae, thats because it disappears on it's own. Your couple of snails did not eat it as many people think.
The first thing people say is to change the water, read all the posts you can find and see if that ever worked.
As I said, it leaves on it's own as long as you reduce feeding and stop changing water. Unless of course youy have a dead animal in there or severly overfed, then you should change the water.
Confised?

This was my tank 15 or 20 years ago, see all the hair algae?
Notice how healthy the corals are?
This algae left on it's own like it always does. It happens every few years in cycles and it always will.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/urchsearch/scan0005.jpg

[eyesinthedrk]

i reciently won my battle with cyano and HA, i was told by experts that out city water was good to go just add declorinator, i also didnt have any coral so i didnt run much by way of lighting , so when i did finally get a quality light system after 6 months of building up my nitrates and phos theough water change and top off as well as feeding 3 times a day as recomended for a few gobies i have, the light acted like a trigger and the HA and cyano exploded,

what i didnt do was remove the algae, i did remove the cyano as it liked to choke off my live rock or sand wich i felt would have compounded my problems, my issues were excessive nitrients, so i limit what went in by feeding 3 times a week rater than 3 times a day, using ro/di exclusivly, i added a phosban reactor and let the HA consume what ever it could, i added more snails and an urchin because i wanted one anyway, the HA is in recession and the snails and crabs are eating the die off before it can send the ntrients back to the tank, like everything in the reef hobby my battle has been one of balance,

i dont agree with just killing the lights, or adding this or that because it eats it, the hair algae is the symptom of the problem not the real problem kind of like saying you took some robitussen for your caugh but didnt see a doctor for your tuberculosis

again leaving the hair algae in place i feel is key, you will always add something to the tank to feed HA, if you scrub the rock and glass and suck out the scraping then nothing is eating the trates or phos and in stead its building, just like in a real war if you fight the army they can regroupe and resupply, if you cut the supply line the army dies

"amature warriors study tactics, profesional warriors study logistics" - Gen Chuck Horner

[cnaegler]

I read an article, after googling bryopsis, that removing any infected rocks or overflow/powerheads and placing them in the freezer for 48 hours will explode the cellulose(sp?) inside the bryopsis, killing it...FOREVER!!! I placed an infected pump in the freezer so we'll see. Anyone heard anything like this?

[conorwynne]

It's a quick fix, but won't address the root cause of it. Algae will indeed die at a cellular level when frozen. The cells explode or something.

The best way is to get rid of the cause of the algae.
Nutrient export via skimming, phosphate removal media, nitrate reduction, water changes, increased magnesium levels (1300ppm or more) and other reduction methods.
I find growing other algae is the best route -- out-compete the HA for nutrients and it doesn't have a chance.

I used to worry about HA, but I actually added a LR piece with HA on it to my new tank, it's really not a bother.

Conor

[cnaegler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14261123#post14261123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conorwynne
It's a quick fix, but won't address the root cause of it. Algae will indeed die at a cellular level when frozen. The cells explode or something.

The best way is to get rid of the cause of the algae.
Nutrient export via skimming, phosphate removal media, nitrate reduction, water changes, increased magnesium levels (1300ppm or more) and other reduction methods.
I find growing other algae is the best route -- out-compete the HA for nutrients and it doesn't have a chance.

I used to worry about HA, but I actually added a LR piece with HA on it to my new tank, it's really not a bother.

Conor


I agree with you about nutrient export and such but i actually had a refugium and it did not outcompete my bryopsis. My nitrates are always zero and my phosphates were .03 and falling so i wouldn't think i have a nutrient problem. As we speak i have raised my mag to above 1700 and i think that it's finally working.The bryopsis is turning white and is becoming stringy so...we'll see

[MantisBrad]

I have this crap taking over my tank and it's starting to **** me off. Here is a pic:

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj118/SlappyMcNiggumz/50gallonFebruary005.jpg

It's twice as bad now. I need to get my skimmer working and start pulling this stuff out.

[Surfzone]

that looks like a brillo pad algae that i also have growing in my tank. i can' find anythign that eats it or anything to get rid of it.

[got2reef]

I battles hair algae for almost a year. I tried everything, hand removal, adding more herms, snails, lettuce nudi, water changes one a week with ro/di water. reduced the lighting as far back as my corals could take. Nothing worked. Then i got a Sea Hair, this dude went to town on the algae! i could pick him up, and place him on a patch of algae, and in a few hours it was reduced to a level that the herms and snails could handle. It really was amazing. Only problem is that after two weeks (almost all the hair algae was gone) i came home to find him half sucked through a grate on one of my powerheads. I read that if they die in your tank your screwed so i pulled him off, he had shrunk to about half his normal size and i did what anyone else would of done. I chunked him. I had a little service for him and drank in his honer. it only seemed right, after all he won my battle with the dreaded hair algae. cheers.

it was also called a sea hare

[Plantbrain]

Theoretically you are absolutely right, however I have also heard that water changes can sometimes feed algae even if the water is "clean", i.e 0 on Nitrate and Phosphate, the theory being that there are other substances or minerals that come with the salt mix that are also feeding the algae. Not sure which substances or minerals these are supposed to be or if true but I have heard that before.

What frustrates me about this hobby is that there are so few definite answers and that so much ofit seems to be pot luck, such as someone having a perfect tank for years, nothing changing and then suddenly getting explosions of algae... we need more proper scientific reasearch and analisys so we can properly understand what really drives these suddend changes. Still love it though!:D

Humm.........I think it has less to do with the salt mixes and more to do with the disturbance and flow during the water change itself, it kicks up detritus from places that have not been cleaned out for sometime.

We tend to have a lower O2 level and the subsequent rise in CO2 as result of bacterial action on the detritus, then the nutrients follow.

I suspect noxious algae are able to respond to this group of changes.

So rather than limiting ranges of ppm's or ppb's, it has little to do with limitations like Liebig suggested for plant growth growth 160 years ago.

It's not nutrient competition in otherwords.

Let say this, I have lower Mg and also much richer N and P levels, and yet no issues with noxious algae.

That is a "reference", eg an aquarium lacking the noxious algae, yet having the supposed hypthetical algae inducing Evil nutrients.
Such aquariums falsify these hokey myths about nutrients and algae blooms.

It does not answer why the algae bloom, but it does illustrate what it is "not" in and of itself. So that is a much better bit of info that speculation, dogma and myth.

So that is another way to approach the questions and problems.

Once you rule out most of the main players that seem most likely, then you are left with only a few choices(generally/hopefully).

Ruling things out can be done fairly well by good seasoned aquarist.

I think some higher Mg seems to help, but I'd need to know what induced the Byropsis to germinate and recruit to a rock etc to begin with. I'd need to be able to do so that the methods are the same for the treatment.

If you cannot grow the pest in question and there's a lot of variation, between test, treatments, then it's going to be very hard to say much.

You need a good culture to test any algae from.

Regards,
Tom Barr

[Bladez]

For about 18 months I have had my HA infested live rock placed in a dark room inside a large sump and I have had a small aquarium attached to house the 2 yellow tangs and the couple of corals that I have left.... In December 09 I decided to get my display going again since the HA had disappeared (for at least 12 months) and was not growing in the small attached tank. So, I moved all the (clean) live rock back into my 200 gallon display. Now (Feb 13) just this evening I was inspecting my tank and noticed small shoots of this nasty weed (algae) growing in multiple places on my glass surfaces. I have been in this hobby for some time and I can deal with the financial and irritated wife part of this hobby but this stuff is about enough to drive a person over the side of a bridge!

Thankfully we have this place to come and vent about and research our problems....

[Elliott]

For about 18 months I have had my HA infested live rock placed in a dark room inside a large sump and I have had a small aquarium attached to house the 2 yellow tangs and the couple of corals that I have left.... In December 09 I decided to get my display going again since the HA had disappeared (for at least 12 months) and was not growing in the small attached tank. So, I moved all the (clean) live rock back into my 200 gallon display. Now (Feb 13) just this evening I was inspecting my tank and noticed small shoots of this nasty weed (algae) growing in multiple places on my glass surfaces. I have been in this hobby for some time and I can deal with the financial and irritated wife part of this hobby but this stuff is about enough to drive a person over the side of a bridge!

Thankfully we have this place to come and vent about and research our problems....

wow, so cooking the rock for that length of time still did not completely eradicate it, I agree with your frustration, this is enough to drive one nuts or at least quit! It sounds like you may have Bryopsis and not hair algae

[Bladez]

wow, so cooking the rock for that length of time still did not completely eradicate it, I agree with your frustration, this is enough to drive one nuts or at least quit! It sounds like you may have Bryopsis and not hair algae

Correct - I was using HA as a generic term for Bryopsis.... Obviously the spores of this stuff can hang around for some time - even in the dark.

One other note - I also have some live sand that I have kept in the sump from the original set up which may have harbored the spores.

[cw150]

I had an explosion in hair algae that lasted for several months. I was close to tearing down what had been a beautiful tank. I used the following measures which has all but completely eradicated the HA:

1) replaced my RO membrane. I'm fairly convinced this was the biggest part of my outbreak. My old membrane had stopped working, and I had been too lazy to replace it, and my DI was getting exhausted too quickly (duh). Obviously many water changes were required as I have around 250 g. including sump and fuge.

2) siphoned the HA from my fuge. This problem had gotten so bad it had overwhelmed my chaeto and caleurpa. Just used a hose and siphoned it all out. It returned several times over the course of 3-4 weeks, so I just siphoned it each week.

3) Removed coral that had HA trapped inside it and hacked it down. The coral was partially dead anyway.

4) Set up a GFO reactor. I purchased the large grain GFO from Bulk Reef Supply. This stuff will not eradicate HA on its own. I do believe it helps break down the decaying matter though, which seems to cause the growth cascade in HA. Don't be surprised if your chaeto will dwindle at first with GFO running. Your water needs to figure itself out before the chaeto can grow.

5) I used a product called 'Vanish'. Comes in a tiny bottle from my fish store. I removed all carbon and did not change the water until the HA was almost completely gone. Perhaps this is the same approach as dosing carbon sources like vodka- I don't know. It worked.


In my experience, there are no amount of critters you can buy that will eliminate a serious HA outbreak in a large system.

[Paul B]

In my experience, there are no amount of critters you can buy that will eliminate a serious HA outbreak in a large system

That is correct.

[Charlies_Reef]

One does not become an experienced reefer until He/She has battled and won Bryopsis eradication.

[bermuda reefer]

Having read this article and also tackling a huge outbreak of HA, my entire 180 plus fuge are covered with HA, i believe it went unchecked in the fuge and i wasnt running the fuge lite 24/7 and it just went asexual. So i went to the shore and collected 10 or 12 sea hares and they made a good attack on the HA but they eat until they roll up in a ball and then they dissapear, no idea where they go, they just vanish. So the Tangs nibble as do the blennies but you would need a hundred of them. So i collected a dozen or so small common urchins, not to big as they knock alot of stuff over. These guys plow! they eat HA and clean right down to the rock coraline and all, they are making fast work and seem to be best consumer to date, i was at the point of tear down and rebuild but i just might be making progress.

[reev]

I'm also fighting with an hair algae outbreak in my 125G+sump/fuge. I have a fair size cleanup crew of various snails, hermit crabs, emerald crabs, a few shrimps. I am growing chaeto in my fuge and running an Euro-Reef skimmer. Beside the cleanup crew I only have some Zoas, LPS and few SPS corals and a orange spotted goby. The goby feeds on the pods from the tank (I have plenty) and I only give little food to the shrimps once a day. I am not feeding the corals at all right now.

I had more fish earlier, including a yellow tang, a sailfin tang and a lawn mower blenny, but now they're out of the tank. Since they're out, the hair algae growth has slow down, but still growing.

I have been pulling algae out almost daily in the past week. The clean up crew appears to come and eat the short leftovers, but I don't see much progress.

The nitrate and phosphate levels are undetectable. Maybe because the algae feeds on them? The chaeto grows relatively fast too.

I added recently 2 lettuce slugs. They ate very little and then they "parked" on the glass. Reading more on them I have found that they can feed days to months on the algae cells they sucked up. So it would take a huge army of slugs to eat my algae.

Should I turn on the UV? Should I stop feeding my tank completely for few weeks? Would the shrimps survive?

I'm planning to try out an urchin soon.

Thanks!

[reev]

A short update on my fight with the algae.

I took the statement that "there are no amount of critters you can buy that will eliminate a serious HA outbreak in a large system" and I decided to look at ways to reduce the nutrients instead of adding more snails/urchins and others that "eat" algae.

Searching around, I ran again into the threads and articles discussing the dosing of vodka in reefs. They made sense to me: using vodka as an additive to increase the bacterial population and make it consume more nutrients faster than the algae can.

So I started planning an working on 2 items:
1. I purchased a few more dry live rocks, bleached them and put them to dry out in the sun. After few more weeks I will put them to cure for a month and then I will add them to my tank. I need these because I feel my tank to be understocked on live rock. More rock is more medium for bacteria to grow on.

2. I built a vodka dosing calendar and slowly I started adding vodka to the system. I followed the process described in this article, except that my nitrate and phosphate readings are not accurate since the algae feeds on those. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

After about of week of low daily doses of vodka and a few rounds of pulling algae from the rocks, I noticed a change in the HA: there were spots that turned light green-yellowish color and I saw much more algae floating through the water - I need to clean my return's pump prefilter daily. It's too early for me to tell if this means the algae is fading/dying out or i just the color of new algae blooms. I hope it's because the algae is dying since I haven't seen this color on it before the dosing. It also feels softer and easier to pull it from the rocks. I take that as another good sign.

I will continue dosing vodka at the same levels, around 1ml/100G. So far I don't see any side effects from this dosing.

[nattarbox]

I am also about to ramp up vodka dosing to deal with Bryopsis. I used vodka to successfully rid my tank of cyanobacteria last year. I had about four months of clean tank enjoyment before a strand of Byropsis came in on a coral colony I had bought.

Thought it might have been a seafan or something at first because my LEDs made it appear bright blue. :mad2:

I added four lettuce sea slugs who have done an admirable job over the past month, stripping an entire glass wall of the algae, but they seem less effective on the rock. Also I read that they retain the algae within their body and use it to derive energy through photosynthesis, and I've noticed they spend a lot of time basking at the top of the tank under the lights instead of eating the algae. :mad2:

Obviously going from cyano to bryopsis, there is a larger issue I need to address around available nutrients. I hesitate to make huge changes to my tank routine because the corals and everything else are growing better than ever.

[reev]

I forgot to post a more recent update to my fight with HA until I saw the post from nattarbox.

Here it is:
I used vodka dosing and a few weeks into the dosing I started replacing the rocks that have been covered with the rocks that I had purchased & bleached. At the same time I dosed MB7 to replenish the bacteria. I did some heavy siphoning of the sand in the DT and fuge.

Once I was able to replace all rocks that have been covered with hair algae (took me a couple weeks), I had left very little in the DT. At that time I added a sea hare. The sea hare eats much more HA than the lettuce slugs since it simply digests the algae instead of using its cells for photosynthesis. The guy cleanup every single piece of the algae that I could see in my DT in a matter of weeks and then I moved it to the fuge where it did the same with the algae growing on the sand and rocks, but some was left mangled in my chaeto and I had to remove that myself. After cleaning my fuge, I had to give it away because I was afraid that it will starve in my tank.

Since then, I'm trying to keep my tank nutrients low, I have added carbon filtering and I'm considering adding a GFO reactor as well.

So far it's all good, I saw a couple very small patches of algae in the low flow areas of the tank or on the baffle & overflow teeth. The fish and clean-up crew are able to keep them in check so I didn't do anything about them.

Oh, my algae might have been just the plain hair algae. AFAK, the sea hare don't consume bryopsis. (I'm mentioning this just in case you are considering one).

[biecacka]

will the urchins eat brown algea too? its a reddish brown color
corey

[DeathWish302]

In my experience, there are no amount of critters you can buy that will eliminate a serious HA outbreak in a large system.

Wow! All these years and this thread is still kicking....:beer:

Moral of my bryopsis story:

bryopsis + snails/mithrx crabs/hermits + other nuisance alge in sump = DT bryopsis outbreak

Many months later.....

1 Cup of Bleach + Infested LR = DEAD Bryopsis...

Problem solved

[nattarbox]

Yeaaaahhh..

I've beat cyanobacteria in my reef, and a number of various freshwater algae types. But this stuff is something else. I'm starting to think it might be a good excuse to spec out a new tank setup.

I guess I'd have to quarantine everything for months before moving it over though. Even the snails have bryopsis growing off their shells now.

[nattarbox]

Has anyone tried using a UV sterilizer to potentially minimize the spread of viable fragments from manual removal and clean up crew poop?

I had very good results using a cheap/small UV unit on freshwater tanks suffering from green water, a condition that perpetuates itself in a similar fashion.

[DeathWish302]

Has anyone tried using a UV sterilizer to potentially minimize the spread of viable fragments from manual removal and clean up crew poop?

I had very good results using a cheap/small UV unit on freshwater tanks suffering from green water, a condition that perpetuates itself in a similar fashion.

I don't think UV would completely eliminate the possibility if kill off the strain at all. I once found another small patch start forming on a rock that did not have a high concentration of bleach when I first tried this. I used about 3 cups to a gallon and left the rock air dry in the sun for about 3 days. The bryopsis survived!:furious:

Before that, I tried a kalk paste applied to the patch and it came back in about 3-4 months. This strain of algae is nasty. I had no luck besides soaking in a uber-high concentration of bleach water or straight bleach soaks.

Give the UV a try, but I'm reluctant that it will result in controlling stray fragments. I've heard other's try UV for controlling aiptasia and mojano, but the major problem I see is that unless you zap every ounce of water circulating you cannot guarantee that the nasties won't get by the path of least resistance.

[nattarbox]

Yeah, I assume UV would not be effective against anything larger than one cell. I also have a HOT Magnum filter lying around that has a very fine filter, it might be effective at removing a lot of the fragments after my weekly manual removal ritual.

I might give that magnesium theory a try too, not much to lose at this point!

[DeathWish302]

Yeah, I assume UV would not be effective against anything larger than one cell. I also have a HOT Magnum filter lying around that has a very fine filter, it might be effective at removing a lot of the fragments after my weekly manual removal ritual.

I might give that magnesium theory a try too, not much to lose at this point!

Can you remove the rock from the DT when removing? I eliminated a majority of my stray bits by removing the mats while the rock was outside the DT.

As for the Mg theory, I have shot my levels beyond 1600ppm before (when RC was actually measuring 1350ppm and not 1150ppm as prior batches). The mangroves and prolific algae in my lagoon didn't slow their growth rates at all. Maybe it would work for bryopsis, but it didn't work any miracles on my HA when it shot to 1600+ppm.

JMO

[mccorry]

I've been fighting a Bryopsis outbreak in my tank for a few months now. I've tried the following with not much sucess:

Sailfin (Lawnmower) Blenny - Starved to death... wouldn't touch the stuff
Emerald crabs - Won't touch the stuff
Various snails (Astera, Margareta, Turbo's, etc.) - not found one that will touch the stuff
Lettuce Nudi's - no dice... plus... my damn peppermint shrimp ended up eating them right in front of me.
AlgaeFix dosing - killed off all the other nuisance green algae in the tank, but didn't hurt the Bryopsis one bit.
Scrubbing / Manual removal - Keeps it under control / at bay ... but isn't fixing the issue.
Chetomorpha in the sump - I've tried this twice and I can't keep Chaeto alive. I think my tank doesn't have enough Nitrates to support it... it just disentigrates over 2-3 weeks.
Shortened light cycles - no significant change.

I am running out of patience. I hate this stuff! Argh!

[nattarbox]

Same.

Just lost a few more colonies to it. I'm losing soft coral polyps during manual removal, as the Bryopsis has entangled them almost completely. Tank looks like crap most of the time.

I can't decide if I should order another dozen of the lettuce nudis and a uv sterilizer, or a new tank.

[1fishkeeper]

Well I think that I have come to ends wit with fighting the bryopsis in my tank. I would really just like to nuke it all and start over fresh. But my only prolbem is I dont really have a place to put my mag that is doing really good. I have tried the Tech-M with no luck I just done a peroxide bath on the rocks that have it really bad. So I guess i will wait until I see how that comes out. But if that dont work Im nuking it with a small atom bomb. But if I have missed something about killing that works please let me know.

[tedcb]

A long time ago, I had problems with hair algae as well. I was told to get a lawn mower blennie by a friend of mine, and he worked wonders. I have another lawnmower in my 125g that I recently set up, and he is amazing!!! I broke down my 75g and moved everything into my 125 and needed more live rock. One of my LFS had a beautiful large chunk of cured live rock that had been around for a while because it was covered with hair algae. The owner just about gave it to me. I put it in the tank and the LMB just went to town. It's a month later, and not a single bit of algae left on it. None cropping up on any other rock either. Only problem is my LMB doesn't want to eat anything else now. Won't eat algae sheets, ulva, chaeto, culerpa, or gracilaria.

[DeathWish302]

Well I think that I have come to ends wit with fighting the bryopsis in my tank. I would really just like to nuke it all and start over fresh. But my only prolbem is I dont really have a place to put my mag that is doing really good. I have tried the Tech-M with no luck I just done a peroxide bath on the rocks that have it really bad. So I guess i will wait until I see how that comes out. But if that dont work Im nuking it with a small atom bomb. But if I have missed something about killing that works please let me know.

I promise that the Clorox bomb will work. 1cup of bleach per gallon of water will do the deed overnight. Let it air dry and rinse with about 20gal of water and voila!.... No HA. By doing this you can go rock to rock and not completely tear down a tank.

I still have a patch on my overflow bulkhead, so I just pull some off every couple months. This stuff hasn't spread ever, so a couple rocks at a time should not cause you grief in the long run.

Believe me, it could be far worse like redbugs or AEFW.

:thumbsup: