Woodworkers/DIYers - looks of seams in stand

[OCEAN SIZE]

I have some very high end figured mahogany donated (!) for my new build, but the pieces are not full sheets. I'm building this new stand/canopy with planks, should be cut to about 1' tall x 7' long (3/4" thick).

The boards will sit horizontally, but the grain wont match probably so there will be an appearance of seams running horizontally the length of the stand.

Any ideas on how to either minimize this appearance *or* maximize it to get a cool effect?

[uncleof6]

Ever see a real hardwood floor where all the grain matched? You can use a planer (bench) to plane the joining edges flat and straight, that will minimize the seams showing. Just mix and match um till you like the way it looks.

Jim

[troylee]

+1 on what jim said or get some nice trim like 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick and bring it out....either way would work.....

[Hawkdl2]

If you are going to use solid wood to construct your stand, it is a general rule in furniture building to run the individual boards or grain vertically, though obviously it is entirely up to your tastes. One reason for this, other than common practice and appearance, is you will have long grain for hinges with vertical boards rather than end grain if you go horizontal at door openings. Screws do not hold well in edge grain. It is, however, common, though not universal, to use vertical boards up to a door opening and a horizontal piece above and below the door - much like a door with stiles and rails (i.e. a raised panel kitchen cabinet door) itself might be made.

To joint the edges of the boards you need either a well tuned table saw, a jointer or hand planes. I've used all three very successfully for many years but almost exclusively use a jointer now. A planer is not the tool to joint board edges and will not give you either a square edge (the main objective) or a flat edge. A planner is for smoothing surfaces of boards that have been previously made flat and square with a jointer or hand planes.

[uncleof6]

Ok, I am not on today........ jointer, planer......... I can't build tanks, talk about skimmers and sumps, bulkheads and plumbing without making a mistake somewhere along the line......

J

[username in use]

What about a very thin strip of contrasting would sandwiched between the boards, like maple. If it streches the whole length of the tank it could give it a nice look that accentuates the llong lines of the tank as opposed to the shorter vertical lines. You could incorporate the accent wood into other parts of the stand as well.

[Hawkdl2]

Absolutely, Maple would be a first choice and is often use as a contract with Mahogany. Holly would be another, more contrasty, choice, but maple would look nice and is more readily available. You might consider working up the design using Sketch-up or just free hand to try to get an idea for the overall look. Keep in mind that while some woods such as cherry darken over time, mahogany lightens over time, though will always be lighter than maple.

Uncle: I wouldn't worry about it, your advice was right on, just the wrong tool, and your batting average is pretty darn good from what I've read - while lurking around the past few months.

[OCEAN SIZE]

uncleof6 - Hey Jim, I'm getting the pieces cut by a pro who has work in Smithsonian magazine... super high end precision cuts. I like your idea - I can arrange them to best results and choose my fav combo. I have 7 pieces to work with. Also, I've been paying attention to horizontal natural grain boards in design and really its not a bad look, even if its not as clean as a single sheet. Great thoughts!

troylee - also good thinking and I'm considering something to cover the seams potentially since I likely cant make them invisible.

Hawkdl2 - Thanks Larry: great points about using vertical for edges, horizontal for doors. The stand will be short and my pieces are long (this is for a 7' tank), but you're on the money about the look and doors.

I'd like to do a simple magnet door or 2 for the front of the stand. I plan to QT there but the sump is remote.

username in use - GREAT idea. The cabinet shop happened to kick me down with really nice prefinished maple in 3/4" and in 1/4" (or less - looks like laminate).

I'd like to 2 tone wood here since the mahogany is dark, the maple is light, and both are gorgeous.

Here's the thing: the mahogany is in long 1' x 8' planks (sheet cutout leftovers really... not boards, so Im getting them cut to smooth, even sized pieces - still need to measure the shortest point since there are slight curves cut in them).

The maple is in smaller pieces, squares, nothing even close to 7' long. If I had it cut into thin slices, say, 1-2" so the grain changes in the maple arent also painfully obvious, would that look cool? Would it be easy enough to put together by someone without your woodworking skills (much less equipment)?

I'm going for a very modern, clean-lines look here. That should hopefully make it easy. Also, I agree about mocking it up - I use the Adobe suite to do my layout planning. I will post pics when I have something worth showing. I've tossed around many designs so far.
Also - thanks *B I G * T I M E* for the help guys. Please push / help / guide me here. Your support is crucial. I want a stunning cabinet and stand to compliment my tank and I really have to get on the ball on this tank ASAP.