How to test T-5 ballast with Fluke meter

[fasteddie99]

I posted this on the lighting forum yesterday but it didnt get any hits. Not quite appropriately placed but the "reef disscussion" gets more attention.

I have a Nova Extreme 4x54 watt T-5 light with 2 actinic and 2 10k bulbs. I was dumb and forgot to put the lexan splash protector back on the light after cleaning it and within a couple of days, splash and salt crepe got up in the bulb conector on one of the actinics and started buzzing/popping and the smell of burnt electronics. whew!

My wife called me at work and told me that as soon as the actinic lights kicked on in the morning is when she heard and smelled it. She ran down and unplugged the entire light. I came home and dried it all out with a towel and hair dryer, but the actinic circuit is not working at all. So what I have now is 1 actinic, and 1 10k in the usual day circuit until I figure out whats wrong with it.

I have a Fluke digital multimeter but I dont know how test a T5 ballast. The switch for the faulty circuit is fine, I tested it with the ohmeter, so I am down to either the ballast or the T5 blub end connector itsself. Which it could be because it is burnt and charred where the water splashed up on it.

Do I test with 1 lead on each end connector for each bulb or do I test with 1 lead to the one connector and the other to ground?

How many volts should I be looking for? Is it still the 110v ?

Thanks allot in advance

[bizzleb01]

I don't believe you can test the voltage with a fluke meter. The whole point of a ballast is that it is a transformer. It takes a 110v in and turns it into a much higher voltage with very little amps to fire the gases inside the bulb.

That's what I've gotten from working in the electrical field for four years.

[fasteddie99]

Hmmm, interesting.

Any way that I check it, I am still only reading mere milivolts.

[brainwashed]

Do I test with 1 lead on each end connector for each bulb or do I test with 1 lead to the one connector and the other to ground?

I would check 1 to end connector to ground. The other to ground. Make sure that the black is out of the way so you make good continuity. Now if it isn't grounded out (good thing) check continuity to each end, chances are if you cleaned the charred black off to check for ground you should ideally have continuity. There maybe a safety inline that needs to be reset or replaced.

If it goes to ground then remove wire to ballast and check ballast if that goes to ground you are SOL on that ballast. If it doesn't but the end caps do then replace endcaps.

You should ideally replace the endcaps anyway just for safety reasons.