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Vancouver Reefr
10/21/2009, 11:40 PM
I thought i would share with you guys the progress ive been making on my controller.

Here is a list of whats completed right now with my controller:

Arduino Mega
RTC
20x4 4 bit LCD
ATO with built in protection timer and on/off override
Auto water changer
Auto salt mix preparer
Alarm mute and reset
Flood detection
Feed switch to cut off main circ pump for feeding and Maintenance
Sunrise and sunsets for led array and fuge
Chiller runaway cutoff
Heater runaway cutoff
PWM cooling fans for led array ( Fan speed proportional to Heat sink temp )
Fresh water reservoir low water detection

Alarms for :
Chiller & heater runaway
Flood detected
Tank temp to high/low
Tank ph too high/low
Tank Salinity too high/low
Reservoir water level low

External pumps cutoff if flood detected.

Serial commands from pc to remotely activate:
AWC start/stop
Salt mix start/stop
Alarm mute/reset


Currently working on:

Home made LED drivers ( 9 off )
Home made Peristaltic pump drives and controls ( 4 off ) ( Dosing, Priming & Calibrating )
Salinity measurement circuits for main tank and salt mix
PH measurement circuits for main tank and salt mix
PC to controller WIFI connection

Im almost done so then ill be able to tackle learning how to make a GUI to interface to the PC for real time monitoring, datalogging and remote control.

If any of you have any idea of an easy to learn, yet powerful GUI software please let me know. A nice GUI is all that is needed to top off this incredible build!! Ive even impressed myself at how far ive got and especially since ive never done anything like this before last December!!!

Please see the link in my signature to my website documenting the whole design and build so far.

Enjoy,


VR

dipan
10/21/2009, 11:43 PM
Whoa ... looks like the mother of all DIY ... I never understood DIY controllers and PLC stuff too well ... This looks to be highly automated and I look forward to your progress!

Vancouver Reefr
10/21/2009, 11:48 PM
The plan is for full automation as time progresses. I used to deal with PLC's when i used to be an engineer and i only learned the Arduino stuff since last xmas. Theres tonnes of info out there and if you have a little bit of electronics knowledge you can accomplish alot.

Glad you liked the read so far!!

VR

Godoftheseas
10/25/2009, 07:48 PM
I was just looking at the arduino sitting on my desk while researching a reef keeper, thinking this cant be that hard. Awesome project I look forward to following your build and hopefully replicating what i can. I was most worried about doing the probe stuff but if it can be done I shall try.


Mike

Vancouver Reefr
10/25/2009, 07:58 PM
Probes are easy!!!

Heres a great place for probes:

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/nengshi/product-listubdEIwrJbnVj/Laboratory-Electrode-catalog-1.html

Ph probes are $8.00 and Conductivity probes are $15.00

I have them and they work great!! Only problem is you have to wire transfer money to them which costs about $40 :(


Also try here for the PH probe circuit:

http://blea.ch/wiki/index.php/PH_Meter

And this for the Conductivity ( Salinity ) circuit:

http://blea.ch/wiki/index.php/PPM_Meter

Myself and several other have these circuits and some are using them with very accurate results. Mine are not ready yet, but soon will be!!

Hope this all helps!!

VR

jbarnaby
10/27/2009, 09:57 AM
Awesome build. I really like how you prototyped as well. You gave me plenty of ideas for mine too, thx. Are you going to include any schematics on your site as well? I would really be interested in your circuits for PH and Salinity in particular.

Jeff

Vancouver Reefr
10/27/2009, 10:41 AM
I posted all the schematcis on here the other day but for some reason the Mods have to inspect them before they will post them. Ill give them a shout later on and get them to post my reply.

Vancouver Reefr
10/28/2009, 11:03 AM
Here is the ph circuit:

http://blea.ch/wiki/index.php/PH_Meter



Here is the Salinity ( EC ) Circuit:

http://www.octiva.net/projects/ppm/

Then try these guys for the ph and salinity sensors:

http://www.nengshi.com/en/

Good quatlity and awsome price!!!! Ph probe $8 and EC probe $15. The only problem is that you have to wire the money to them which costs about $40 :(

Hope these helps!!!


VR

kolosy
11/01/2009, 10:05 PM
hey reefr - (since i'm an electronics n00b) for the salinity meter, i'd need (ideally) a probe like on that side + the controller electronics in the link, right? the link talks about a diy sensor, but i could swap in one of the commercially available ones, right?

Vancouver Reefr
11/01/2009, 10:09 PM
Sure,

The SDLS-1 shown at http://www.nengshi.com/en/new_lab.asp?id=254 is what you need. They are only $15 + your banks wire transfer fee.

They come with a BNC connector which you just connect to your circuit. Just place a male BNC connector into your circuit.

VR.

kolosy
11/02/2009, 10:45 AM
thanks!

kolosy
11/02/2009, 12:24 PM
mind if i axe a couple more questions about that schematic?

is it possible to build without a scope? there's some language on the diagram along the lines of 'adjust V1 pot until oscillation occurs". i'm assuming that's not something i can just measure with a meter... (fwiw my electronics education is slightly beyond highschool physics)

Vancouver Reefr
11/02/2009, 07:05 PM
You don't need the scope for the gain but you do need it for the 1st part of the op amp that creates the AC sinewave. Without it you will never be able to set the deal up right.

I bought this simple kit for when i set up my probes:

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/digital-storage-oscilloscope-with-panels-p-514.html

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/images/product/cope1.jpg

VR

Razhorn
11/18/2009, 06:35 PM
enjoyed the read may have to give one a try soon thanks

ace2002
11/19/2009, 09:36 PM
nice setup

AwkwardParrot
11/20/2009, 08:10 PM
Awesome build; very jealous that you have time and know how to do this. How's the system/setup coming?

Vancouver Reefr
11/21/2009, 01:10 AM
The system has been going great up until just recently. I got laid off and am now waiting until spring until the hiring starts again. I will then be buying a house so once all thats done, i can then finish the controller, setup the tank and then start playing on my internet/pc interface, automated salt mixer and frozen food dispenser.

Lacking on the dollars and space to build anything ( 700Sqft apartment ) you can see why its had to go dormant for a few months :(

But once i get back on it ill be back on with the updates etc. Im as excited as everyone else is to get this thing back on!!!

PS. Let me guess your a city fan seeing as you live in Manc!!!! My GF spend 4 years at UofM. Many a good night out!!!!

VR

strifilo
11/27/2009, 08:04 PM
VR

I have also been playing with an Arduino for a controller. Could you email me the schematics of yours? Looks like you have some very nice features. Mine is very basic.

Thanks

Vancouver Reefr
08/30/2010, 06:15 PM
Hi guys ive just updated my webpage as to where im at with this!

Progress has been a little slow due to moving house, being laid off twice and all the usual crap life seems to throw at you all in one go, but im pleased to say its all sorted out and now, and i can jump back on here and get this thing finished.

I updated my webpage today, as Google seemed to kick every one off the webpage hosting for a while. So i put on some new pics and words of where im at.

Enjoy!!


https://sites.google.com/site/richardorme1979/

stage3-s4
09/16/2010, 02:54 PM
wow looks great. I have a few questions. Those little breakout boards for the Driver IC, where did you get them? I made a driver myself using an LM3404 Ic and its a ***** to work with because its so small. I ended up buying a hot air rework station and solder paste. What IC did you end up using? Also did you do all the programing yourself? I could use a hand with my setup.

Vancouver Reefr
09/16/2010, 03:56 PM
Hi Stage,

The break out boards i got from Sparkfun, They make working with the SMD stuff so much easier!! I found soldering them was not too bad, just take your time and keep your soldering iron tip clean.

I ended up using the Zetex ZXLD1362. Its a great little driver. 1A and up to 60V. Im driving 12 LED's of each string at 48V.

As for the programming i did most of it myself. I used alot of copy and pasting from other people's codes on the arduino forum and then adjusted it to suit my application. I used to program industrial PLC's and had never done an C before so i know my code is not anywhere near how it should be written. However i have written it to how i understand it and so far its working fine. Time will tell once im up and running to see if i have any bugs in it.

VR

stage3-s4
09/17/2010, 07:31 AM
Hi Stage,

The break out boards i got from Sparkfun, They make working with the SMD stuff so much easier!! I found soldering them was not too bad, just take your time and keep your soldering iron tip clean.

I ended up using the Zetex ZXLD1362. Its a great little driver. 1A and up to 60V. Im driving 12 LED's of each string at 48V.

As for the programming i did most of it myself. I used alot of copy and pasting from other people's codes on the arduino forum and then adjusted it to suit my application. I used to program industrial PLC's and had never done an C before so i know my code is not anywhere near how it should be written. However i have written it to how i understand it and so far its working fine. Time will tell once im up and running to see if i have any bugs in it.

VR

that is great, Im an EE but I work with high voltage a/c power systems so my programming skills are lacking. PLCs are great to use and pretty easy to program using ladder logic. Would you mind maybe taking a look at my code and make any suggestions?

Vancouver Reefr
09/17/2010, 12:51 PM
Hi Stage,

If you tell us a description of what your controller will do and then copy and paste the code onto here, i know there are several other people on here who will take a look and possibly add their input.

VR






that is great, Im an EE but I work with high voltage a/c power systems so my programming skills are lacking. PLCs are great to use and pretty easy to program using ladder logic. Would you mind maybe taking a look at my code and make any suggestions?

darkside212
09/20/2010, 04:37 PM
looks great. I'm using an arduino based controller and was thinking of adding a salinity monitor to it :)

Vancouver Reefr
02/08/2011, 02:55 PM
Lookie what the UPS man brought me today....................


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5017/5429191404_22905b91e1_z.jpg


oh and i also made a start on my PC interface.....


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5422024251_870d104a34_z.jpg


We are slowly getting there and i can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

VR

alexwbush
02/18/2011, 02:43 AM
super jealous. I can only imagine the cost

nl146
03/20/2011, 11:11 AM
Great design skills. Can't wait to see the completion of your project.

skish2
03/23/2011, 11:54 AM
Hey i was wondering where you got your temperature probe from? I've been looking around and I cant come up with anything? any ideas for me!
Great build btw!
:beer:

skish2
03/23/2011, 07:48 PM
Hey VR, I was wondering what type of probe you use for temperature? Do you use the pH probe and then use the temperature sensor to convert it to an actual numerical number or is it a totally separate sensor and code? Bc I've been looking online and I can't find a single temperature probe. Any ideas? Thanks!

Vancouver Reefr
03/28/2011, 12:12 AM
Hi guys,

The temp probes im using are a Dallas one wire semi conductors. I can use multiple sensors on one signal wire and just address each one to get iTs temperatire.

See here for more info:

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/OneWire


Once i wire the probes i then take a length of black plastic tube, slide the sensor and wire in the end and then pour epoxy down the tube to seal all the electircal side.


I then calibrate my code to read correctly with my temp probes sat in 78F water ,as this is what my tank will be maintained at.


The temp and PH pRobes and associated circuits are completly seperate to one another. I just then read each value independantly in the controller and output the coded values.

VR

Vancouver Reefr
03/28/2011, 12:28 AM
A few more progress shots:


Front Panel:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5566623337_4533a1a42c.jpg

Back Panel:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5567202984_5dc4773a56.jpg

Front Panel Wiring:
<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5566624767_356a4715f9.jpg" [/IMG]

Mains plug-in box:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5149/5566622785_8853c49476.jpg


VR

skish2
03/30/2011, 05:13 PM
Ok now with that being said i totally understand your websites description of the temp sensor. With that being said though, while checking out the diagram i see that all your probes and heater are wired into the same line. Is this a basic one-wire design taking the output wire and also connecting it to the pH probe? or is it just for the sake of saving space on the diagram that you didn't put separate wiring to each.

Vancouver Reefr
03/30/2011, 05:19 PM
That is just a generic diagram to show whats going on. The temp sensors will all be connected together using the one wire protocol and will feed into one input.
Each ph sensor and salinity sensor will have its own input.

So i total i have 5 inputs on the mega for the sensors:

1. Temps ( Tank Temp, Mix Temp, Hood Temp )

2. Tank Ph

3. Mix PH

4. Tank Salinity

5. Mix Salinity



Hope this helps.

VR

TheReefChief
04/05/2011, 01:59 PM
This thing is absolutely out of control awesome! Its exactly what I was imagining I wanted to do with my arduino skills on beautiful steroids. But seeing this build makes me realize how much I would need to put into it. Amazing job on the hardware and case too.

I am a UI Web Developer who worked for years in the building controls/automation/energy industry and man, your PC interface looks lightyears better then many of the large automation dashboards I ran into on the job.

Tell you what, I will build you the slickest Web Service, Transactional Database, and Web UI you've ever seen. And you build me another one of these things :P

BeanAnimal
04/17/2011, 07:50 PM
Looks like you used Front Panel Express. Are you pleased with the service? Their prices are kinda spendy. I never pull the trigger on their panels becuase the price scares me one I get everything laid out.

Vancouver Reefr
04/17/2011, 09:43 PM
I did indeed Bean. Their software was very simple to use and made laying out a dream, and the price as you draw is fantastic! I was going with a full infill colour panel until i figured i could save $60!

As for the quality and delivery, it is first class! They are a little pricey, but compared to the quotes i was getting locally, it was cheap. Im so glad i used them, as the front panel looks stunning now its all assembled.

I will definately use them again for any future engraving. Fast delivery to! They also tell you exactly when its going to arrive, and it was bang on time!!!!

VR

BeanAnimal
04/17/2011, 10:05 PM
The software has improved over the last few years, but it still drives me crazy for some reason. I use water slide decals and clear coat for most panels, as most of the panels I have designed using their software end up being upward of $150 - $200.

My controller has been waiting on a custom panel for 2 years now. I have almost pulled the trigger on FPE several times but just can't swallow the price. My actual intent was to build my own CNC router to do that kind of work, but that is likely never going to happen.

Interesting mains box, though with cords, those switches are going to be a tight reach, though I imagine they will get little use. I chose to use low voltage logic to derive HOA (Hand Off Automatic) modes for the outputs instead of putting switches on the mains side.

Vancouver Reefr
04/18/2011, 09:33 AM
I thought about doing the water slide transfers but then i bit the bullet and went with FPE. IM glad i did as the quality is fantastic.

As for the switches, they are actually pretty easy to access. Once the box is mounted, each cord will wrap around to the side and then go through access holes in the backing board. This leaves enough room to operate the switch. Also the switches are there really for emergencies. It will be rare that i will have to turn anything off outside of regular maintenance, as the common things i need to turn on/off can be done from the front panel of the controller.

Also the switches are switching 12VDC. They act as an override to drive the relay coil that switches the mains voltage. I did not want possible salty wet fingers switching 110v!

BeanAnimal
04/18/2011, 01:26 PM
Yup all of my HOA switches are low voltage as well. I just pulled up the last FPE panel I designed for my controller. It costed out to $300...

There is justs no way I am spending $300 on a single front panel :)

energyguy1978
04/18/2011, 05:01 PM
Awesome! Do you have a parts list?

Vancouver Reefr
04/19/2011, 03:08 PM
A parts list for the controller???

energyguy1978
04/19/2011, 03:10 PM
Yes, Is there a complete list for this controller?

Vancouver Reefr
04/19/2011, 03:15 PM
Nope, sorry. This has been built bit by bit over the last 2 years. If i sat down and went through all my schematics i could do a list but i dont have the time to do that. Its a big list!!!


I can help with any areas you may need though.

VR

zvargulis
05/09/2011, 05:57 AM
Hey VR
nice work!
im a electronic technician and your build inspires me to take my work and knowledge home with me... and maybe some parts and 1-wire temps as well :P

i was wondering where did you source those doseing pumps from? and what sort of cost i should be looking at each?

love your work, cant wait to see more!

Vancouver Reefr
05/15/2011, 12:48 PM
The dose pumps i got from here:

http://www.welco.net/

I was lucky enough to get these for free when they had a sample offer running. Im not too sure how much they retail for, however a quick email to them will soon provide all the information.

making your own controller is great fun! I used to be in the electronics field and with the internet to help fill in the gaps its incredible what you can come up with. Just make sure your designs and circuits are bulletproof and you build in as much redundancy as you can.

VR

BigRick
05/26/2011, 01:35 PM
Man if I only had the time. Good job, great skills VR

oemtds
06/19/2011, 11:10 AM
I looked at your diagrams and i cant see how your salinity sensor provides 0-5vdc output to arduino. I see pH sensor with op amps but not the TDS. What do you use or how does that magnifier work?
Would you be interested connecting an inline salinity sensor that provides 0-5vdc output?
Also pH inline sensor that provides 0-5vdc output.

hugorsf
06/28/2011, 06:07 AM
Great job!!!
Great Info!!!
Great Build!!!

My major dought is about the control box for the pumps. How do you control a 220V appliance from the arduino? What component do you use?

BeanAnimal
06/28/2011, 08:21 AM
Great job!!!
Great Info!!!
Great Build!!!

My major dought is about the control box for the pumps. How do you control a 220V appliance from the arduino? What component do you use?

There are several ways to control higher current and voltage.

The primary means is by the use of relays (solid state or mechanical). The uC pins can directly drive the relay coils or do so through a small signal transistor or FET.

Other options are serially (RS-232, TWI, IC2, etc) relay boards that get their instructions from the serial bus of the uC.

:)

hugorsf
06/28/2011, 08:35 AM
There are several ways to control higher current and voltage.

The primary means is by the use of relays (solid state or mechanical). The uC pins can directly drive the relay coils or do so through a small signal transistor or FET.

Other options are serially (RS-232, TWI, IC2, etc) relay boards that get their instructions from the serial bus of the uC.

:)

Thanks!!! :wave:

This relay can do the job? Can y connect his realy directly to an arduino and switch on/off a 220v appliance like a pump?

BeanAnimal
06/28/2011, 09:00 AM
Thanks!!! :wave:

This relay can do the job? Can y connect his realy directly to an arduino and switch on/off a 220v appliance like a pump?

Most uC pins can sink or source around around 20mA (some more some less). In most cases, we would rather sink current than source it. While 20mA is enough to drive a solid state relay and some mechanical relays, it is best practice to use a transistor to drive the relay and the uC to drive the transistor.

With a simple 5V microcontroller and the proper relay, you can easily control anything.

That said, your questions are very basic and indicate that you are new to electronics and/or basic electrical theory. If you have interest in building projects like this you should look into purchasing a basic electronics book and/or spending some time on basic electronics forums :)

Vancouver Reefr
06/28/2011, 09:55 AM
Here is the diagram on how to do it:

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/uploads/Learning/relays.pdf

currymuetze
07/05/2011, 02:50 PM
wow-amazing project.

I'm building sth similiar but gotta say, not nearly as professional or automized as yours.

Im facing some problems with the different power supplies I use: 3x 24v supplies for led lighting, 1-2 suppplies for 12v reefpumps, 9v supply for arduino.
Did you add caps and diodes to your circuits to protect your controller from errors and voltage peaks? Or how you making your controller working solid and safe?

Also, I would be interested in getting more info about the ph and salinity probes. This is gonna be the next addons I will need ;)
Did you buy those in the US and do you know if they mail to Europe?
Gotta say all phprobes I saw are kinda expensive. Also, what exactly is the probe for salinity? I did not see anything on the websites you linked to? Are they named differently than salinity probe?

My major dought is about the control box for the pumps. How do you control a 220V appliance from the arduino? What component do you use?
If you are not really into electrics and do not feel save handling with high voltage, I can recommend to use wireless controlled power sockets such as these kinda things (dont know how they are called in the US):
http://src.discounto.de/pics/Angebot/34166/52626_Funksteckdosen-Set-34166_xxl.jpg
I control the wireless controller via arduino to switch all my 230v devices on and off. You just need 5v and gnd and one digital out PIN to control 4 sockets. I bought alltogether 8 sockets and 2 controllers which gives me the opportunity to control a bunch of pumps, 2 heaters, the skimmer etc....
Let me know if you need more input.

Thorsten

sendthis
08/23/2011, 01:12 PM
I wish I had found this a year earlier... I'm actually looking to do the same thing right now. I could have helped, but I guess this way, I can learn from you :)

I'm kind of curious, for your flood detector, what are you using? Sorry if you've already mentioned this, I went through your site and didn't see it (it might be in your posts on this thread somewhere and I missed it though).

I've actually been planning this for about 5 months and just recently started to make an actual plan. My first order of business is building my WC system - that's where the flood detection comes in.

Thanks,
Eric

1RJ
09/17/2011, 09:46 AM
I just finished reading your webpage and WOW!!!! Thank you for being so thorough and sharing the information. I am an inspired admirer and have subscribed to see your finished project coming up. Where did you get your front panel printed. Very professional looking. Great job. I'm just starting to build my own controller - have the arduino uno controller and other parts are on the way. You have certainly raised the standard for the DIY reefer. Very professional! Thanks again.

Vancouver Reefr
09/17/2011, 12:15 PM
I had the panel engraved at frontpanelexpress.com

Fantastic quality of workmanship and the free software download they give was very easy to use. It is expensive but im my opinion it was well worth it.

The Arduino is a great platform and im sure you will start upgrading once you get building. You soon run out of space when you start adding to your project.

It might not be long before i have to add a second Arduino Mega to mine as the future add ons i have planned will use up all of my I/O


VR

Daemonfly
10/11/2011, 02:17 AM
Keep an eye out for the new Arduino Due which should be out in November sometime, and is ARM based (96MHz Cortex-M3). Perhaps it will fit in with your future plans better than a Mega, or perhaps it'll be overkill ;)

omartinez
10/24/2011, 09:41 AM
Great proyect...I'm almost ready to start my own proyect...

Where did you get that main plug-ings box?

Vancouver Reefr
10/25/2011, 05:53 PM
DIY all the way omartinez !!!

omartinez
10/25/2011, 05:56 PM
:) wow.....where did you build that? can you share the schematics, parts?

qtfv
11/15/2011, 03:44 PM
Fantastic Job. I envisioned doing something similar but you have trully done an awesome job. Your webpage is great. Thanks for sharing. Hope to see more updates.

WindowMaker
12/01/2011, 10:06 PM
can you shed some light on your serial powerbar? how does the switching mechanism on it work? Do you have any diagrams you could share? On that note, I see the front panels are done from FPE, what about the rest of the casings?

what are you using for ph and salinity probes?
I was able to find ph probes that use BNC for 20 ish dollars, but nothing much for salinity.

thanks, your project is an inspiration for sure.

Vancouver Reefr
12/06/2011, 09:59 AM
Hi all,

Sorry for the delay, for those who have emailed me, i will get back to you in the coming weeks. Its been a crazy few months starting a new job, training etc and i will be moving across the country on Jan 1st. Once settled ill be able to give you all updates etc.

To answer some of your questions on here:

Im currently waiting to have the PCB's made up. The prototype boards you see in my website have proved the circuits run reliably so now i can proceed onto the PCBs.

The serial mains box has inside it a relay for each switched output. I have a data cable which comes from the Aquatroller which tells each relay to turn on/off. Each mains socket has an LED next to it which tells me if the signal is on the relay telling it to turn on. Each switch on the box is just there to quickly turn off the power to the mains socket for quick maintenance.

The main case i used for the Aquatroller is a rack mounted case which you would see in any IT server cabinet.

The Ph and salinity probes i will be using are from here:

http://www.nengshi.com/en/


They are fairly cheap, but they will only accept a money order for payment.

Stay Tuned Folks!

WindowMaker
12/20/2011, 05:27 PM
was it the SDLS-0.5 model of conductivity probe that you purchased?

okbishop
01/01/2012, 08:47 PM
Fantastic. Makes me want o get back into building systems. Would love to use the new chips.

FoxDaddy
01/08/2012, 12:10 AM
Yeah it's ok, I built a similar system last weekend. Takes out the trash and brings in the paper too.

Seriously, the whole design is just ridiculous! Kudos!

ReefRescue
01/24/2012, 12:23 PM
VR great job on the design and workmanship....are you still in Van or have you moved on....?

I am gonna build one of those for my next system. thanks for the post and the info..

RC Members wouldn't it be great if people read the entire post as opposed to just a page and ask questions that have been answered over and over again.:spin1:

pszemol
05/09/2012, 07:57 PM
Probes are easy!!!

Heres a great place for probes:

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/nengshi/product-listubdEIwrJbnVj/Laboratory-Electrode-catalog-1.html

Ph probes are $8.00 and Conductivity probes are $15.00

I have them and they work great!! Only problem is you have to wire transfer money to them which costs about $40 :(

Hi, I have visited their website and they have many different models of the pH sensors available but not too much information on them... Which ones you tried? Do you know which one comes with a standard BNC connector at the end of the coax cable?

Thanks!

ps. great project - congrats!

JAGarciaOfTroy
05/20/2012, 04:53 PM
To begin with... Just wow. I had the bright idea of using Arduino to build a smart Kalk stirrer and actually had the audacity to think I was innovative. Then I find this thread and now I feel more akin to the sign language gorilla from Congo. "tickle Amy! Tickle aaaaaamy".

I would love to basically just cut and paste your progress and build my own Aquacontroller, but I feel that it's best that I use you as a reference to learn how to do it myself. So I would like to ask you for a sort of bibliography of your sources. I want to learn the basics and really understand it.

That being said, what is a good guide to introduce the Arduino? I have ordered the Arduino Cookbook to begin with. Any other suggestions that would better flesh out the programming language? Also im very interested in building my own PCB board, I think thats what you called it. Did you use a specific program to model your circuit board? If so where can I find it along with a tutorial?

I would appreciate any input that would help set up a fundamental working understanding of how you evolved this amazing project. Thank you.

currymuetze
05/23/2012, 03:56 PM
I like this guy and his videos: http://www.jeremyblum.com/category/arduino-tutorials/
Very detailled descriptions for both, electronics and coding
Take your time, each video is about 30 mins. Unfortunately hes only doing them once in a (very long) while

currymuetze
05/23/2012, 03:56 PM
I like this guy and his videos: http://www.jeremyblum.com/category/arduino-tutorials/
Very detailled descriptions for both, electronics and coding
Take your time, each video is about 30 mins. Unfortunately hes only doing them once in a (very long) while

WSPepsilon
01/08/2013, 12:11 AM
Great job, curious if you ever got around to setting up an automated salt dispenser. Been looking around for some ideas and there are surprisingly few available on this. Was thinking a side dispensing hopper with a motorized auger might work best.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk HD

Vancouver Reefr
03/09/2013, 10:54 AM
Hi all,

So im finally installing the tank and Aquatroller. Hope to be getting wet in the next week or so. I have overhauled my journal website and added a build page of the aquarium install.

Hope you enjoy....

https://sites.google.com/site/richardorme1979/

overexposed
03/11/2013, 08:29 AM
I was wondering what happened to this project!! Stumbled upon it when doing research for my tank build, and when I got to the end I was like.... did this guy ever finish? lol. Thanks for the update :D.

Vancouver Reefr
03/11/2013, 09:23 AM
Yeah this has been a long road!!! Too long! But the usual changing job, changing house, new baby all got in the way! Its now my turn to play!!

WSPepsilon
03/11/2013, 12:15 PM
Very nice set up. Curious if you have any sketches or thoughts on your salt dispenser yet? Also, for your automated wc is your return section large enough to drain out the necessary 10-15% water volume without having to shut down your whole system?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 2

Vancouver Reefr
03/11/2013, 12:37 PM
Hi WSP - I have not thought to much on the salt dispenser yet but i was thinking about a hopper with a 1" SS auger controlled by a dc or stepper motor.

Im about a week away from getting the system wet so, im hoping i will be able to keep the system running while i do the WC. It will all depend how much i can drain before i get a vortex created by the 2" circ pump inlet. If i cant get a good amount i will experiment with either shutting the circ pump off during the change or running the WC more frequent. Either way wont be a problem.

VR

aaronc1540
03/17/2013, 08:28 PM
Hi,

I was just reading the Welco pump selection guide.

Here's what I came up with and I think it will work for me.

WPX1-L-1/8-s-2-W4-R
WPX1-L-1/8-s-2-W4-B
WPX1-L-1/8-s-2-W4-G
WPX1-L-1/8-s-2-W4-Y

What configuration did you purchase?

Thanks,

Aaron

moncapitane
03/22/2013, 03:10 PM
Hi WSP - I have not thought to much on the salt dispenser yet but i was thinking about a hopper with a 1" SS auger controlled by a dc or stepper motor.

Im about a week away from getting the system wet so, im hoping i will be able to keep the system running while i do the WC. It will all depend how much i can drain before i get a vortex created by the 2" circ pump inlet. If i cant get a good amount i will experiment with either shutting the circ pump off during the change or running the WC more frequent. Either way wont be a problem.

VR

Do you have the coding you used in your arduino mega? I would love to compare it to what I am planning to use if you are up for it.

Adrian.F
02/27/2014, 05:24 PM
update? :bounce1:

5yearplan
03/16/2015, 06:38 AM
Great Job! I'll be following this thread, looking to do something similar. I'm impressed with the visual side of your program, being able to see everything on the computer as opposed to scrolling thru the LCD

EFJ
04/06/2016, 01:42 PM
@Vancouver Reefr any updates on this build. I am also looking at doing a DIY controller and really liked this thread. Was planning on going with Beaglebone Black but as a noob to the programming world I think running with Arduino would be better. Also is there a way of me getting my hands on your coding for this project. Love the detailed web page.