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jvr1102
10/26/2009, 07:04 PM
So I am looking at getting a reefkeeper elite. I know I can put all my powerheads etc on there to alternate but what else does this thing do? Maybe I am slow today but the site has all kinds of info but after reading im still wondering. Also would the less expensive model be sufficient? I don't mind spending the money for more bells and whistles if I am actually going to ring those bells and blow those whistles.

Here is the link
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/PH/ORP/TDS-Monitors-&-Controller-Reef-Keeper-2/c66_67/p695/ReefKeeper-Elite-V2/product_info.html

rbnice1
10/26/2009, 07:19 PM
I dont use reefkeepers but I would assume it will do anything any other controller does.

Which means it will monitor temp and ph and other things. Control your lights, powerheads, other things. Do alarming if something is out of wack. Take preemptive measures, like if temp is high kill your lights.

Not sure about reefkeefers but my apex emails me it the tank alarms. I can access my xcontroler to see current tank conditions or turn on and off equipment remotely via internet and my blackberry.

Depending on what you want to be able to do, you can get the lower end controllers much cheaper.

Playa-1
10/26/2009, 07:57 PM
I can't speak for the units that you're looking at and you're wise to research carefully before you buy one. Controllers can be used to control lighting, dosing equipment, temp control equipment, ATO's, pumps, power-heads, etc. They can be integrated with Computers and be monitored and manipulated remotely by cell phone or lap tops. They can be set up to act as Fail-Safes for heaters, and temp controls in general and dosing equipment. They can monitor certain real time water parameters which can be very beneficial and informative.

Example 1: A Controller is used with a dosing pump to deliver Kalk. The Controller monitors the water for pH and if the pH get to high it will kill the power to the dosing pump until the pH is back within acceptable limits. Then the power is restored and the dosing pump resumes with it's regularly scheduled program.

Example 2: The tank get too warm and the controller kills the power to the heaters. The tank continues to warm up and the Controllers powers up fans. The tank temp still rising the controller could kill MH lighting and/or power up the Chiller. Some will send you a text page in certain situations. It's all automated.

Add those types of benefits to the real time Temp, Conductivity, pH, ORP, water levels that can be easily viewed from your PC or remotely. You can also pull history for this information, if you like. I can tell you what me temp and pH were last tuesday at 3am.

They can be set up to sound an alarms if a parameter that is monitored by the Controller falls outside of an acceptable range. They do not monitor for all water parameters so regular testing is still necessary but the real time information has the potential to save your tank in a crises situation. I've had a couple of instances where I suspect the Controller going into alarm mode has prevented a tank crash.

Overall they provide additional information and a platform to integrate automation into the system.

Playa-1
10/26/2009, 07:58 PM
Ooops!!! I hate when that happens :)

jvr1102
10/26/2009, 08:11 PM
Thanks Playa very descriptive....

jason2459
10/27/2009, 12:06 AM
The reefkeepers are very modular. This can be a big plus when you just want to put together the components that you want and leave out those bells and whistles you don't need and don't need to pay for.

I recently got a reefkeeper lite (RKL) just to control my lights and heaters. That was the main purpose that I wanted it for. So, instead of spending $500+ to get everything under the sun I just needed the base unit and a power strip. Brand new that's only $95.

It was either that or a ranco single controller for $85 and it would be really limited in what it can do. With just the basic RKL I can now do many things. I pretty much followed the recommended setup and have the set point for the heaters to go on at 78f. I turned the heater itself on to around 79.5f as a failsafe itself in case the controller failed and left it on. I then have 4 T5 lamps setup in pairs and a refugium light that I control on timers built into the RKL. If the temp of the tank reaches 84f though it will turn off one of the pairs of T5's. If the temp hits 86f it will turn off all lights. The main unit will flash when it hits the first alarm at 84f and will beep as well when it hits 86f so if I'm around I can keep monitoring it and throw in some ice bottles if need be. I can see the min/max/average temp for the past hour or so on the main unit. The elite I guess can store a much more descriptive log and longer term that can imported into other programs like a spreadsheet. They also have some software to go with the newer reefkeepers that will be free. Not 100% what all it will allow us to do though. .

If I wanted later on I could add up to three more modules. The RKL is limited to a total of 4 modules where the Elite can handle many more, not sure on the limit but it's a crazy number. A power strip is considered a module. Other modules that I could buy would be the pH and ORP modules, Salinity and pH modules, switch/relay hub, or another power strip. The only module that the RKL can't accept is the network module that allows things like direct ethernet access to a built in website in the controller and email/sms alerts.

I'd be interested in their SL2 module which is has the ability to connect a salinity and pH probe and two switching devices. Yes, you still need to buy the probes to go with the modules (unless it comes with the base kit you are buying). Then maybe either the SL1 with ORP/pH and 2 switching ports or a switching hub. With the switches you can hooking sensors. What this would allow is hooking up float switches/IR switches/optical switches/water or moisture detectors. So, you could retrofit a float switch into the collection cup of your skimmer and run that to the reefkeeper. The reefkeeper would detect the floatvalve sensor and know when the collection cup is about to overflow and shutdown the skimmer assuming the skimmer was plugged into a power module. OR you can have a float or optical switch in your sump/tank monitoring the water level and activate a pump to auto top off (ATO) the tank/sump. Or have a water sensor on the floor and turn off all return pumps if it detects water. So, many things can be done with the switch ports.


http://www.digitalaquatics.com/

They have a support forum and email there to answer any questions. I had an email response in about an hour when I asked if the RKL would in fact support the SL2 (salinity module) and the answer was yes with the latest firmware update.