PDA

View Full Version : Ideas for return line


MoneyGone
11/19/2009, 04:56 PM
Hello all I am in the middle of a 125 build and need some advise. First I am dealing with a starphire 60x18x26. It has one overflow with 1.5" drain and 1" return. I am using a mag18 for the return. Everything is dry fit and will glue when I get my RO/DI unit.
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/allpics418.jpg

Does my plumbing look like I will have any issues in the future and my DIY overflow?

http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/11-17-09012.jpg
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/sump011.jpg
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/sump013.jpg
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/sump012.jpg

Also should I ditch the Y in my locline and only use one?
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/11-17-09011.jpg
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/fawneeb/11-17-09013.jpg
Thanks for any input.

bertoni
11/19/2009, 06:37 PM
It's hard to tell much from pictures. I'd experiment carefully with the RO/DI. :)

olliefb
11/19/2009, 11:16 PM
looks fine to me. just don't forget to use primer when you glue the plumbing.and pumps for water circulation inside....

spleify
11/19/2009, 11:19 PM
Looks ok from what I can see. Dual outlets should be fine too.

Is there specific concerns you have that we could help you with.

Nice looking tank BTW

spleify
11/19/2009, 11:22 PM
Also for fine tuning the sound out of your durso, I have have good luck with drilling a small hole in the top of it in the middle and sticking some 1/4" airline tubing in there, that way you can adjust it up and down to help fine tune the noise and help make it as silent as possible. Make the tubing maybe 12-16" or so, maybe not even that long, you will have to play with it.

Hope this makes sense

YTBJ
11/19/2009, 11:31 PM
Can you break everything loose in case you have to fix a leak? I have trapped myself before.

Playa-1
11/20/2009, 12:28 AM
The Mag 18 sounds excessive to me for that size of a tank. How did you come to the conclusion to use that size of a pump?

MoneyGone
11/20/2009, 10:16 AM
Thanks for all the replies. I dont have anything that I think will be an issue. I have been thinking and planning the plumbing for a few weeks now just wanted some other reefers to take a look at it.

I went with the Mag 18 for two reasons it was larger than I needed but I can throttle it back with the ball valve correct? Also it was on sale for very cheap.

MoneyGone
11/20/2009, 12:36 PM
Also for fine tuning the sound out of your durso, I have have good luck with drilling a small hole in the top of it in the middle and sticking some 1/4" airline tubing in there, that way you can adjust it up and down to help fine tune the noise and help make it as silent as possible. Make the tubing maybe 12-16" or so, maybe not even that long, you will have to play with it.

Hope this makes sense

It does actually. I had only drilled a small hole in the cap to prevent airlock. Thanks for the heads up.

MoneyGone
11/20/2009, 12:39 PM
Can you break everything loose in case you have to fix a leak? I have trapped myself before.

This was kinda what I was wondering. I added a union on the return so I could get my pump out and clean and I added on the overflow so I could remove the sump if needed. I will fill with water when I get my RO DI unit and test everything out. Thanks for all the info!

bertoni
11/20/2009, 04:29 PM
The pump can be throttled back with a ball valve, but it'll still consume more electricity, and the throttle will shorten the pump life.

MoneyGone
11/20/2009, 04:57 PM
The pump can be throttled back with a ball valve, but it'll still consume more electricity, and the throttle will shorten the pump life.

Ok thanks for the info!

Playa-1
11/20/2009, 09:36 PM
I would find a more suitable return pump. The Mags are known to run warm and If you go throttling it back considerably then you may add a lot of heat to the system that you don't want. A little throttling is ok but In this case I think it's going to cause you problems unless you set up a bypass for the excess water volume. You could then use the bypass to run media reactors or anything else of your choosing.

Henry Bowman
11/20/2009, 10:58 PM
What kind of tank do you have there. I'm looking for a 120 with a low iron starphire front..

MoneyGone
11/21/2009, 09:44 AM
Should I trade in the MAG 18 for a MAG 12?

I bought it used from a guy upgrading to 180 he said it was AGA but I havent seen any stamps, stickers or other.

insane
11/21/2009, 10:33 AM
Remove the styrafoam from under your tank. Tanks with frames should never be placed on styrafoam. There are many threads about this on RC. The consensus is that it is a big no no.

MoneyGone
11/21/2009, 10:41 AM
The tank sat on the same styrofoam for 4 years before I bought it. We simply lifted it off the stand and sat it in my truck. I took it out of my truck and set it on the same foam when we got it home. The tank is euro braced.

spleify
11/21/2009, 10:52 AM
Good eye insane! And if you look at the left side of the tank, it is actually hanging off of the styrofoam.

I agree with the others also about the Mag return pumps. A good rule of thimb is 3-5X tank turn over per hour with your return pump

MoneyGone
11/21/2009, 11:01 AM
So I guess I have something to do after the game today! I can exchange the pump no problem. I will have to get some of my friends over to lift the tank and remove the foam. Thanks for the pointers I was going to leave it the way I got it glad you guys save me a headache down the road. This is why I joined this board over my old boards (alot more help here). Thanks everyone keep the info coming I am in no means in a hurry to set this up. Want this to be trouble free unlike my last build.

eznet2u
11/21/2009, 11:23 AM
I would also drill a hole in the return pipe (inside of overflow) to break any siphon.

MoneyGone
11/21/2009, 01:59 PM
Ok I removed the styrofoam which wasnt too hard to do. And now have a MAG 12 pump.

I will drill the hole to prevent backsyphon. Thanks for the warning.