durso stand pipe DIY, noise problem now...

[jdthomas24]

ok i did the durso stand pipes and it worked but the tube i stuck in the hole to make sure it stayed above water level has a loud sucking noise coming out of it on both sides.( two overflow chambers) i removed the tube to see if it got better and still the same thing. Is this because the hole is to small ? i used an 1/8 bit....it staying at the correct level just the sucking noise is annoying...

[Reefolution]

Try using a larger hole so you can insert 1/4" tubing with a valve on it. This way you can adjust the flow of air to find the perfect venting. See this link http://dinardiengineering.com/blog/?p=34. Remember to keep the end of the hose above water but below the rim of the tank. This way if you drain slows and the water rises it blocks the airflow and turns your durso into a siphon to increase drainage till you can fix the problem.

[uncleof6]

Try using a larger hole so you can insert 1/4" tubing with a valve on it. This way you can adjust the flow of air to find the perfect venting. See this link http://dinardiengineering.com/blog/?p=34. Remember to keep the end of the hose above water but below the rim of the tank. This way if you drain slows and the water rises it blocks the airflow and turns your durso into a siphon to increase drainage till you can fix the problem.

Just like most others, this blogger has it wrong. The Herbie as originally stated, was a full siphon with a dry emergency, NOT a full siphon, and an open channel with a hole in it to become a full siphon. You do not run a full siphon without a dry emergency.

Durso standpipes are a low flow drain system. They are noisy, fraught with bubbles and unreliability unless the flow through them is laminar. They are by nature unstable. Adding the ability for a durso to become a full siphon is asking for problems. As the most common problem with them, is the flow rate is higher than it can handle, this contraption will cycle between open channel, full siphon-- drain real fast, then start the cycle over. The way to fix the problem is to slow the flow rate till the drain line is stable. Of course the next day, due to an higher barometric pressure, it will be out of adjustment again.

BeanAnimals system, uses an open channel standpipe, and this is what makes it different, and really not related to the "Herbie". It is an entirely different drain system.

Jim

[jdthomas24]

Jim Thanks for the insight. It seems to work fine and i added a ball valve to control the flow of water comign from the tank through the overflow pipes. it changed the sound but it was still present and then the restriction from the ball valve caused more noise so i had to open it back up. not sure what to do now.. i drilled one side out larger and inserted a 3/8 tube instead of a 1/4, the noise is still there just depper sounding because of the larger pipe. not sure if i want to go any bigger than that.

[uncleof6]

Jim Thanks for the insight. It seems to work fine and i added a ball valve to control the flow of water comign from the tank through the overflow pipes. it changed the sound but it was still present and then the restriction from the ball valve caused more noise so i had to open it back up. not sure what to do now.. i drilled one side out larger and inserted a 3/8 tube instead of a 1/4, the noise is still there just depper sounding because of the larger pipe. not sure if i want to go any bigger than that.


This is a very common problem as I stated earlier. The noise will not go away, unless you slow the flow rate. As you found out, you do not control a drain line (unless a full siphon) with a valve. You control the flow through the drain, with a valve on the return pump. The open channels some run, are large (1.5 - 2") but there is only around 200 gph flowing through them normally. They are silent and trouble free, because the flow is laminar-- water flowing along the walls of the pipe, with air in the middle. Turbulent flow (air/water mixing) is what makes the noise and other problems with them. don't know what size your durso is, but the "laminar" flow rate for it will be far lower than you would expect.

Regards,

Jim

[jdthomas24]

i am running 1 inch pvc, would it be better to increase it to 1 1/4 with a tampered fitting to go into the bulk head to 1 inch? i use 1 inch ovc with 4 90's on it two on top and two in the middle to line it up with the hole sort of like a question mark. would it be better to try and remove to of the 90's?

[uncleof6]

i am running 1 inch pvc, would it be better to increase it to 1 1/4 with a tampered fitting to go into the bulk head to 1 inch? i use 1 inch ovc with 4 90's on it two on top and two in the middle to line it up with the hole sort of like a question mark. would it be better to try and remove to of the 90's?

Richard Durso, the guy that invented the "Durso" modification, states very clearly that a 1" Durso, on a 1" bulkhead is useless. (chuckles) He says the minimum should be a 1.25" durso, on a 1" bulkhead. And you would have much better luck with a straight shot-- no 90's other than the "head" of the standpipe. The 90s just exacerbate the problem with turbulence.

This is all you want in the overflow: (well you will need a reducer to get into the bulkhead)

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/uncleof6/Standpipe.jpg

and the straighter the plumbing under the bulkhead, the better. (45s rather than 90s etc.)

Jim

[MalIII]

You need a very small air hole in the top of the pipe to stop a siphon.