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fullmonti
12/24/2009, 02:07 PM
If a person wanted to get their water tested by a lab, would aquarium water testing be as good as any? Or would there be a better choice, money being no object Not being the case.

GreshamH
12/24/2009, 02:16 PM
Not unless they've changed their testing protocols since the last massive thread on this subject. I wouldn't use them.

bertoni
12/24/2009, 06:47 PM
The only lab I'd trust is quite expensive.

fullmonti
12/25/2009, 12:22 PM
I have come to believe our chemical testers are not all that accurate, & mine have been telling me all is well but I have had some on going issues. So what is expensive? & what lab would you suggest? or is there another option?

HighlandReefer
12/26/2009, 08:53 AM
ENC Labs is a good lab to send samples to, but they were having problems and may not be up and running. You can shoot them an email 1st and see what response you get.

http://www.enclabs.com/fees.html#analyses

fullmonti
12/26/2009, 09:42 AM
HI Cliff

Just let me say, $450 for a over all water test has definitely crossed a line. My best friend ask me the other day how much did I think I had spent on my tank. I told him I didn't want to think about it. I think every one should have to answer two questions before keeping a reef tank (at least sps).

Do you have A LOT! of money, and do you have a chemistry and or biology degree? If you say no to either then you can only have fish & a few softies.

Thanks for all your help with the many questions I have asked over the last months. Between the cost of setting up a good sps system, the never ending algae/cyano, & the killing or nearly killing of sps trying to get rid of the algae. I think I need to do some hard thinking about what to do next.

HighlandReefer
12/26/2009, 09:53 AM
Those costs definitely cross the line for me. :lol:

FWIW, I think that using the upper level test kits are fine. Perhaps using two of them from different manufacturers is best. IMHO, as long as your parameters are within the guidlines using the kits, you are ok.

If you run plenty of GFO and change it fairly frequently then you should be keeping the phosphate in line. As far as the other phosphate added, fish food, fish excrement and decay, you need to keep it cleaned out regularly. The algae will utilize as fast as these become available. Some algae can brake down the higher organic compounds directy without the need of inorganic phosphate. Also algae will take advantate of bacterial brake down of the orgnanic P. Keeping bacterial matts off your rock and substrate will help reduce the P here. IMHO, the best method to control the algae is to attack it from all available angles at its weak points. The algae weak points are: limiting phosphate as best as possible; reducing light; removing its growth and debris, I don't believe nitrate reduction helps all that much, but may, so keep the nitrate level low, but not so low to limit the bacterial growth. IME, dosing sugar seems to help control algae. Last resort try the AlgaeFix. ;)