Digital Aquatics Float Switch Kit

[EllieSuz]

Looking for this to use on an ATO. Who has one and do you like it? Was it easy to set up? Is the double one the way to go? If I get one, I'll be using it on a RKL. Thanks.

[au01st]

If you're handy, you can do it yourself for a reasonable amount. I don't think it's worth what they charge.

I got some floats from eBay for $5.95 each shipped.

Spare plexiglass (get a few pieces) and cut into strips. A sheet of 3/16" plexi here is less than $10.

The "Switch Kit" is $15 + s/h (which from DA isn't cheap), so add it onto a Marine Depot order with other stuff you know you need.

For $35 you have enough to make float switches for 2 tanks, or a double, or one for the sump and one for the RO/DI.

I cut an 18" long strip, drilled a hole in the end, then used a butane lighter to heat the plexi enough to bend it on the end of the counter (put some aluminum foil down first). Then I put aluminum around the rim of the tank and figured out where I wanted my water level. I heated 2" of the plexi and bent it around the trim of the tank. Hooked up the float swich to one of the switch kits and everything is good to go. I also hooked up a float switch in my RO/DI container which controls a solenoid on a timer. Once a week the solenoid opens for 3 hours and allows my 150gpd RO/DI to top off that container til the switch trips. It's an auto-refilling auto top off.

If you're not handy, the DA kit will work fine with some kind of top off pump. I use an aqualifter pushing through a kalk reactor that tops off 4x per day and gives me about 1/4" variance in my water level.

Pics of the switch and bracket. The frosted plastic tubing is 3/8" poly line (same stuff as RO/DI plumbing but a size bigger) and has some silicone on there where the switch is wired. I don't know if the switch is water proof, but this was cheap insurance since I had the stuff sitting around.
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w257/au01st/90%20Gallon%20Reef%20Tank/ATOFloat.jpg

And installed
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w257/au01st/90%20Gallon%20Reef%20Tank/FloatAfter.jpg

[Trolldoll]

I have one and its very easy to set up. Having two switches is nice for a failsafe in case one gets stuck. Mine is also on a RKL

[solitude127]

I have one as well with my RKL and I like it. I went with the double just for security reasons. If that 2nd float gets activate, then it'll turn off the ATO pump. I also use that 2nd float to turn off my skimmer if the water level gets that high.

[EllieSuz]

I presume you need to use two outlets if you buy the double switch kit. Darn, I just bought a second PC 4 and it hasn't even arrived yet and I'm running out of room.

[Trolldoll]

No. Only one power outlet is required for the ATO pump. The float switches plug into the SL1.

[EllieSuz]

So, it looks like I have to buy a SL1, plus the double float switches. That's another $115.00. This RKL sure adds up when you start adding on, huh?

[solitude127]

So, it looks like I have to buy a SL1, plus the double float switches. That's another $115.00. This RKL sure adds up when you start adding on, huh?

You might want to consider a SL2 as well. Instead of an ORP probe it has a salinity probe.

[EllieSuz]

Thank you so much, Solitude. I think you've saved me an expensive mistake. The PH and Salinity probes are much more useful than the ORP for my system. I'll have to save up for the probes, but might as well get the correct unit to begin with. Just to be sure, can I get the SL2 instead of the SL1 or do you have to have both?

[philosophish]

@ellie,

You can choose which module you want, SL1 or SL2, and run it without the other.

[solitude127]

Thank you so much, Solitude. I think you've saved me an expensive mistake. The PH and Salinity probes are much more useful than the ORP for my system. I'll have to save up for the probes, but might as well get the correct unit to begin with. Just to be sure, can I get the SL2 instead of the SL1 or do you have to have both?


Yes. The SL1 and SL2 have the switch ports needed to use the DA float switch.

[DaveMorris]

The RKM-SW5 has 4 switch ports and one relay port. It is $10 less than the SL2 so if you didn't need the ph and salinity probes, the SW5 is a better choice.

[Jade]

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the SL2 was only for the RK Elite, and was not compatable with the RKL? At least thats what the description on BRS says. If the SL2 can be used with the RKL, that would be great.

[Chris27]

Both the SL2 and SL1 are compatible with the Lite and Elite.

[Chris27]

At least DA says they are:

http://www.digitalaquatics.com/saltwater/RKM-SL2

[DaveMorris]

ALL modules are compatible with both the RKL and the Elite. Early on the ALC and NET module were not compatible with the RKL, but that has changed. The SL2 has always been compatible with the RKL. FWIW, I would buy modules directly from Digital Aquatics. That way you always know that you are getting the most current firmware and correct information.

[Jade]

Thanks for the info. everyone. That changes my plans a little bit. I would use the salinity probe more than the ORP probe.