Glass DIY 30x30x24

[NasotheHutt]

Euro braced on bottom and top, 1/2 thick glass throughout, starphire on two sides.

Does this sound doable?

[chasekwe]

Yes, you could even do it with 3/8" glass.

[NasotheHutt]

Where can I get GE RTV108?

[ycrazyy]

You can get the RTV108 (clear -- item #4UH12) or RTV103 (black -- item #4UH10) at Grainger

As for the glass thickness, if you are euro-bracing top and bottom then 1/2" should work. I would not go any thinner though. You can take the top euro brace away as well w/1/2" glass.

[NasotheHutt]

Thanks.

I assume this is still the prefered stuff to use?

[Vivalashay]

these are the same dimensions i was thinking of. Are you going to post a build thread?



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[NasotheHutt]

Is there any difference in adhesion strength of the 108 vs. 103?

[ycrazyy]

Yes, the RTV10x series is still the preferred silicone. I'm sure uncleof6 will chime in, he is the expert in these matters (and will probably say that using 1/2" glass is teetering on the edge). It is the only FDA approved adhesive that has the strength to hold a rimless tank together.

[NasotheHutt]

Vivalashay - I can. I pick up the glass from Glasscages Friday so as long as I can get the silicone I might have this done this weekend.

I have a Marineland 93G that I'm dissatisfied with so I hope this works.

[NasotheHutt]

I read some of his posts and saw that he thinks 1/2 is to thin AFTER ordering the glass. The Marineland I have is 3/8 to I felt 1/2 should be more that adequate....at least I hope so. I'm not looking to do a rimless as I will have a canopy. I actually ordered enough glass to do a "double euro brace" that is one on the top inside and one directly on top.. make sense? Was also going to rest the sides on top of the bottom pane and euro brace the bottom so that there is a vertical and lateral bond. I hope this sounds crazily over built because I'm a little scared.

[ycrazyy]

I personally think (don't take me as an expert!) that the 1/2" will be perfectly fine with the bottom euro-braced as well as the top. I think the top is actually overbuilding it plenty so I wouldn't worry. After all, it's only 100g of water on your floor!

Just remember, before you start to silicone this (if it's your first build) practice, practice, practice (probably NOT with the $10/tube silicone). This stuff sets up VERY quickly so you will need to act fast. Tape everything off, goop it on, and go for it.

If you are in doing this in a warm, high humidity environment, this stuff sets up in literally a minute or two.

I would recommend ordering probably 6 - 8 tubes just in case.

[NasotheHutt]

Ok, 2 more Q's for now....


1) Should I use something to achieve a consistant gap for the seams, if so what?

2) I'll be doing this in the basement, not to humid and not warm at all. Is a cooler temp 50F-60F ok to do this?

[uncleof6]

12mm glass euro braced top and bottom will be a solid tank. 9mm (3/8") no, would need full metal rim. Should not do a rimless with these dimensions, unless the glass is 15mm. OP made the right choice the first time.

Trust what you are hearing about practice first, RTV100 series silicone is unforgiving. Practice with the material though, that is the only way to get used to it. Pracitce with a lesser silicone, and you will not be prepared for the RTV. I would never recommend that a DT be a first DIY project. Heavy glass, and big disappointment if you have to take it apart, and redo it-- and generally, you will at least once.

FWIW,

Jim

No difference in adhesive strength between 103 and 108.

[NasotheHutt]

It looks like some people complete the aquarium in one shot, while others tackle it one side at a time with a day or two in between. Which is the optimum method?

[uncleof6]

Optimum method? Have someone with experience plus, build it for you. Short of that, I think that for a first time, build it a side at a time. Less rush. I can be done in under 10 minutes, from start to finish, but takes a few more than several builds, to develop a "method" that is efficient and works for you.

Jim