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Buckeye Hydro
02/01/2010, 11:38 AM
Your RO quiz for the day:

Depending upon how your RODI system is configured, why would it be a bad idea to use a pressurized storage tank for your RO water? How about for your DI water?

Russ

dipan
02/04/2010, 04:58 PM
Your RO quiz for the day:

Depending upon how your RODI system is configured, why would it be a bad idea to use a pressurized storage tank for your RO water? How about for your DI water?

Russ


Backpressure from needing to fill the tank would decrease membrane efficiency and consequently DI efficiency.

The DI is reactive and would probably corrode the metal and maybe even degrade the rubber parts of a storage tank over time, and consequently result in added dissolved "stuff" in what was pure water ...

Buckeye Hydro
02/05/2010, 04:06 AM
Sounds like you've been reading up!

dipan
02/05/2010, 11:11 PM
Is there an RO/DI manual somewhere? :)

Buckeye Hydro
02/06/2010, 04:37 AM
Plenty of books on the topic, but not much in the way of material compiled that is specific to the size units and applications in the hobby. I think there used to be about a 10 page write-up on RC - but I just looked and couldn't find it.

Russ

fishingdude
02/09/2010, 03:03 AM
the tank, or any metal should be PRE / before di resin...

also, the use of the pressure tank will cause the water to flow faster through the reisn, and possibly not allow sufficent contact/dwell time for the water to react with the Resin


Typically, 'REEF' water filter systems are sold/promoted without pressure tanks as the thought is that the water will be placed into a seperate, NON pressure barrel to mix with salt water... so, a small pressure tank is not really 'productive'/worthwhile..


(what do I win???)


hehhehe

Buckeye Hydro
02/09/2010, 03:39 AM
The admiration of your peers!

The other issue (that dipan referenced) is that because of the back pressure on the membrane supplied by the tank, the TDS of the tank water will be higher than the TDS of permeate straight from the membrane w/o back pressure. Higher TDS = shorter DI life.

Russ

anothermineral
03/10/2011, 11:57 AM
So what's the solution to the back pressure issue? Woudl adding a one-way check valve to the line that feeds the tank and then placing a T-fitting between the check valve and the tank that would also connect to the DI?

Buckeye Hydro
03/10/2011, 04:58 PM
Almost...
a tee that feeds the di and the other side going to a check valve, and on to the tank.

If you'd like, we can email you a diagram from our Reef/Residential Series.

Russ

anothermineral
03/10/2011, 07:59 PM
Thanks, I'd appreciate the diagram. Please email to [email protected]

Buckeye Hydro
03/12/2011, 07:36 AM
Sent!

dixiedog
09/11/2012, 06:25 PM
Almost...
a tee that feeds the di and the other side going to a check valve, and on to the tank.

If you'd like, we can email you a diagram from our Reef/Residential Series.

Russ


I realize how old this thread is, so forgive my necro-posting. But I've been searching for answers to this very question. I guess I've been doing this wrong for a very long time, and I've begun to think it may have been adversely affecting my tank from the very beginning.

Could you please shoot that diagram (if it still exists!) to [email protected]?? Thank you so much!

Buckeye Hydro
09/12/2012, 09:10 AM
"necro-posting" - ha!

Yep - we'll email that to you now.

Russ

lakeviewink
09/22/2012, 09:18 AM
Hi Russ,
another necro- I just replaced my membrane because my tds was creeping up over 10ppm. I ran the new membrane for over two hours to "break it in" and I was shocked to find my tds over 60ppm! Did I do something wrong? or not do something right?

I would appreciate the diagram you speak of because I'm receiving a booster pump on Monday as my pressure is just under 40psi presently. I'm trying to design the best configuration possible and I was going to get a pressure tank until I read this thread.

My e-mail; [email protected]

Thank you for your help

Buckeye Hydro
09/22/2012, 10:09 AM
Hmm. I don't think we sent a pump to Petoskey recently...

Buckeye Hydro
09/22/2012, 10:13 AM
Sent!

lakeviewink
09/22/2012, 12:04 PM
Lol, I'm getting one used from a friend. Next time I need anything you will be hearing from me

Buckeye Hydro
09/22/2012, 12:35 PM
I'll also email you some instructions for that pump.

Russ

lakeviewink
09/22/2012, 01:28 PM
thank you

JTL
10/16/2012, 01:06 PM
I posted some of this in another thread but this seemed to be more to the point. I currently have a pressure tank but it sounds like I really don't need it. If I eliminate the pressure tank can I also ditch the auto shut off? Do I still need the check valve in the ro canister? Since I need new filters I may as well simplify things. I currently have a 100 gpd system but after doing some research it looks like the the 75gpd is better. I do have one issue that I need to consider when I turn on the IO. Due to the way my house plumbing is configured thru the attic the first few gallons of water is over 100 degrees which I understand is not good for the membrane. About all I can do is run some tap water for a minute before I use the system. Any comment or thoughts on my thoughts?

Buckeye Hydro
10/16/2012, 04:57 PM
Yeow John - that's a lot of info in your post - and we have responses to all of them. Feel free to give us a call.

Russ
513-312-2343

JTL
10/16/2012, 04:59 PM
Sorry, I probably did do information overload.