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RBU1
02/02/2010, 05:56 AM
Hi Russ,

How much do you know about Rainsoft house water filters/softeners?

I have noticed that my sediment filter does not get rust colored since this whole house system has been installed. I assume that is because my water is filtered before the RO unit. I just replaced my 4 filters along the bottom of my unit sediment, 2-carbons and my DI resin. The DI resin has already started changing color and I am assuming that is because I had the resin sitting around for a long while. I am still reading 0 on the TDS meter so I assume I am ok???

Could there be any concerns with having a filter system such as rainsoft with the reef tanks?

Buckeye Hydro
02/02/2010, 07:48 AM
Those look to be fairly traditional water softeners. Water softening is a great pretreatment for RO or RODI - and as you've noticed softening does a good job of removing low to moderate levels of iron.

A softener will also remove hardness - calcium and magnesium. These minerals will be replaced by sodium. Sodium will be adequately removed by the RODI.

Now - on to your fast DI color change. Is the color change starting at the top, or the bottom, of the cartridge?

Russ

RBU1
02/02/2010, 08:38 AM
The bottom started to change first now almost the entire cartridge has already changed and its only been a week or two at most.

Buckeye Hydro
02/02/2010, 10:16 AM
Can you give me a tds reading from:
Tap water:
RO water:
DI water:

How old is the resin that's in the cartridge now?

Russ

RBU1
02/02/2010, 10:48 AM
I will have to get those numbers.

Tap is 110
water out is 0

How do I get the

RO#
DI#

THe resin I used had been sitting around for at least a year in a sealed bag.

RBU1
02/02/2010, 08:03 PM
OK I hope I got you the right numbers....

With my handheld TDS

Feed water 178
After Mem before DI = 8
After DI = 0

Buckeye Hydro
02/03/2010, 03:31 AM
Those all look very good. Your membrane is rejecting 96% of the TDS, and your DI is removing the rest. Keep an eye on those DI numbers since you've seen color change already.

Russ

RBU1
02/03/2010, 07:20 AM
Thanks....

If you can explain some of the science behind how this unit functions that would be great. My assumptions are....

My feed water enters, goes thru the sediment, then carbon one, then carbon two, then the membrane, then the DI then my bucket for salt water.

The part I don't understand is how does the flow restrictor and auto shutoff work?

The hoses go thru the unit as described above but if my memory is correct they come from the last carbon to the shutoff, out of the shutoff to the membrane, 2 lines from the membrane one goes to waste water the other goes to the shoutoff then out of the shutoff to the DI.

What triggered my question.. I wanted to test the value of my waste water so I remove the line on the other side of the flow restrictor and turned the unit on but no water came out???? Was the shutoff keeping the water from flowing for some reason????

Buckeye Hydro
02/03/2010, 08:08 AM
Your understanding of the order of the filters is right on.

A flow restrictor is a partial plug that goes somewhere in the waste water tunbe. It causes water pressure to build in the RE membrane housing, and its this pressure that drives water through the membrane for purification.

The ASOV works by comparing the water pressure in the high pressure side of the system (i.e., before the membrane) to the low pressure side of the system (The RO water leading to the DI stage(s). When the low pressure side increases to about 2/3rds of the high pressure side, the ASOV shuts off the high pressure side.

I suspect you just removed the wrong tube from the ASOV. If you remove the low pressure "out" tube, your system should kick on - but be prepared for the water spraying everywhere. If you are talking about checking the TDS in the waste water, no need to do that.

Russ

RBU1
02/03/2010, 08:18 AM
Your understanding of the order of the filters is right on.

A flow restrictor is a partial plug that goes somewhere in the waste water tunbe. It causes water pressure to build in the RE membrane housing, and its this pressure that drives water through the membrane for purification.

The ASOV works by comparing the water pressure in the high pressure side of the system (i.e., before the membrane) to the low pressure side of the system (The RO water leading to the DI stage(s). When the low pressure side increases to about 2/3rds of the high pressure side, the ASOV shuts off the high pressure side.

I suspect you just removed the wrong tube from the ASOV. If you remove the low pressure "out" tube, your system should kick on - but be prepared for the water spraying everywhere. If you are talking about checking the TDS in the waste water, no need to do that.

Russ

OK last questions sorry...

Adding a valve that reads preasure would go were? and what benefit does it serve?

Buckeye Hydro
02/03/2010, 08:41 AM
If you'll PM us your email address we'll send you a set of instructions.

The gauge should be installed so that it tee's into the line that leads to your RO Membrane "in" port. Remember that the performance of your membrane is very much affected by your water pressure. So the gauge will tell you 1) Do you have enough water pressure in your home's plumbing to run the system effectively?, and 2) Are your prefilters (the filters before the membrane, typically a sediment filter and a carbon block) clogging/clogged?

A TDS meter and a pressure gauge are two pretty fundamental tools if you want to do anything more with your RO or RODI system than install it (such as troubleshooting, or operating it in a way that minimizes needless filter replacements).

Russ

RBU1
02/03/2010, 08:54 AM
Thanks for all your help Russ. No need for the instructions. When the time comes that I order one I will get it from you and can worry about that then.

Buckeye Hydro
02/03/2010, 09:04 AM
OK. You know where/how to find us!