Aqua C EV-180 overflowing

[sharky's machin]

I purchased a used Aqua C 180 recently and set it up in the sump under my 125. It has overflowed twice onto hardwood floors! I keep thinking its tuned and come back and its overflowing the cup and spraying water.

When I tune it, I'm placing the water level at the top of the black box, well below the neck and collection cup.

I am using a Mag 9.5 instead of a Mag 7, could this be the problem?

[jtma508]

I have the same setup and use the Mag 9.5. I've run it for 2yrs and it has performed flawlessly for me. Here are some suggestions.

1. Ditch the gatevalve if you're using it. Instead, replace the gatevalve with a 1" 90deg 'street el'. You can get one at HD or Lowes. It's basically a 90deg PVC fitting with a male thread on one end and open 'slip' fit on the other. Screw it into the housing pointed down. Make sure to drill a 1/4" vent hole on the very top of the fitting. Then fashion some sort of platform so the skimmer sits with the sump water level right at the bottom lip of the gatevalve opening (the threaded opening where the gatevalve used to be. NOT the bottom of the street el).

2. There should be a 90deg fitting on the side of the collection cup. Attach a length of tubing to this that is just long enough to terminate maybe 1" above the sump water level. This way, if the skimmer runs away it will simply dump back into the sump and not end up on your floor.

3. This step is optional but you can contact Aqua-C and get a 1" injector for the 180. That allows you to run 1" tubing between the Mag 9.5 and the skimmer. My performance improved after doing this. The part costs $10.

4. With the setup above, the water should be roiling right at the top of the black box/bottom of the clear neck.

5. Make sure the airvalve, and injector are both clear of salt build-up and debris. The former WILL start building-up salt so you'll want to inspect/clean it periodically. You'll get a sense of how often once you've run it for awhile.

6. Make sure you teflon tape the airvalve, injector and any John Guest fitting threads. If you have an unused John Guest fitting make sure it is blocked.

7. When you're ready to dial-in the skimmer just slightly crack-open the airvalve and let the skimmer run for several hours to stabilize. Then make very small adjustments lettting each one stabilize. On my system, I have a 'take-off' plumbed into my Mag 9.5 to drive GAC and GFO reactors (so my water pressure/volume to the skimmer will be slightly less than yours) and my airvalve points to the 2 o'clock position. So as you can see it's only slightly open.

I hope this helps. Bottom line: make SMALL adjustments and wait for the system to stabilize between adjustments. Once it's set, it's set.

[sharky's machin]

I have the same setup and use the Mag 9.5. I've run it for 2yrs and it has performed flawlessly for me. Here are some suggestions.

1. Ditch the gatevalve if you're using it. Instead, replace the gatevalve with a 1" 90deg 'street el'. You can get one at HD or Lowes. It's basically a 90deg PVC fitting with a male thread on one end and open 'slip' fit on the other. Screw it into the housing pointed down. Make sure to drill a 1/4" vent hole on the very top of the fitting. Then fashion some sort of platform so the skimmer sits with the sump water level right at the bottom lip of the gatevalve opening (the threaded opening where the gatevalve used to be. NOT the bottom of the street el).

2. There should be a 90deg fitting on the side of the collection cup. Attach a length of tubing to this that is just long enough to terminate maybe 1" above the sump water level. This way, if the skimmer runs away it will simply dump back into the sump and not end up on your floor.

3. This step is optional but you can contact Aqua-C and get a 1" injector for the 180. That allows you to run 1" tubing between the Mag 9.5 and the skimmer. My performance improved after doing this. The part costs $10.

4. With the setup above, the water should be roiling right at the top of the black box/bottom of the clear neck.

5. Make sure the airvalve, and injector are both clear of salt build-up and debris. The former WILL start building-up salt so you'll want to inspect/clean it periodically. You'll get a sense of how often once you've run it for awhile.

6. Make sure you teflon tape the airvalve, injector and any John Guest fitting threads. If you have an unused John Guest fitting make sure it is blocked.

7. When you're ready to dial-in the skimmer just slightly crack-open the airvalve and let the skimmer run for several hours to stabilize. Then make very small adjustments lettting each one stabilize. On my system, I have a 'take-off' plumbed into my Mag 9.5 to drive GAC and GFO reactors (so my water pressure/volume to the skimmer will be slightly less than yours) and my airvalve points to the 2 o'clock position. So as you can see it's only slightly open.

I hope this helps. Bottom line: make SMALL adjustments and wait for the system to stabilize between adjustments. Once it's set, it's set.

Great detailed response. Glad I posted here. I'll take your advice to heart and implement.