keeping my tank at a even temp

[autococker3]

let me start from the beginning. i bought some tangs and i keep having problems with ich. they are the only fish that end up with it. i tryed al the stops and ne prevale. i was also told that if there is a temp drop they can also get ich. i think this is my problem. my house gets cold at night due to my daughters asthma. we keep it around 60 upstairs when sleeping and down stairs its arond 50. yes cold i no. i have no choice. what i want to no is there a way i can maybe set up 2 heaters or another wat to keep the temp at a steady temp. i have a 300 heater. not sure of brand of hand. i have a 75g with a 30g fuge.

[spleify]

[welcome]

Yes you can add another heater, maybe try two, 400W heaters instead of the one, 300W. You get get a controller for it too, a lot of folks like the Ranco controlers.

Lastly, when you said you added "some tangs" to your tank, what does that mean? You mention that you only have a 75 gallon tank, so I was just curious what "some tangs" meant.

[Chris27]

QT'ing all the fish and leaving the DT fallow for a few weeks will clear up your problem quickly. Eradicating the parasite from your DT is the only true way to ensure the fish in there never succumb to it again.

[Mike321]

i have about the same water volume as you and i have 550 watts of heat. My room gets down to around 60 at the lowest and my temp stays right a 80 degrees. i would just add another heater. you want around 5 watts per gallon, maybe more since your room gets so cold.

[autococker3]

Lastly, when you said you added "some tangs" to your tank, what does that mean? You mention that you only have a 75 gallon tank, so I was just curious what "some tangs" meant.[/QUOTE]

i only added two tangs to the tank.

[autococker3]

QT'ing all the fish and leaving the DT fallow for a few weeks will clear up your problem quickly. Eradicating the parasite from your DT is the only true way to ensure the fish in there never succumb to it again.

i was told that the cause of the parasites where also due to temp change.

[autococker3]

<img src="/images/welcome.gif" width="500" height="62"><br><b><i><big><big>To Reef Central</b></i></big></big>

Yes you can add another heater, maybe try two, 400W heaters instead of the one, 300W. You get get a controller for it too, a lot of folks like the Ranco controlers.

Lastly, when you said you added "some tangs" to your tank, what does that mean? You mention that you only have a 75 gallon tank, so I was just curious what "some tangs" meant.

where do you get the ranco controller from. and how does it work with two heaters. it actually controlls the two heaters simotaniosly. if that is spelled rite:spin1:or is it a heater in itself. if so what size controller do i get.

[NirvanaFan]

Before adding more heaters to the tank, how low does the temperature get? What is the normal high during the day?

[autococker3]

its at 79 during the day and in morning it gets and 73 to 74

[Chris27]

i was told that the cause of the parasites where also due to temp change.

A temp change may have made the fish more susceptible to the parasite, but I assure you that the temp change didn't cause it.

Eradication is key, if you remove the parasite from your system, temp changes, stray voltage, bad water or stress won't ever make it reappear, because it's not in there.

[autococker3]

what type of meds do you rec. its a reef tank also. and why does it seem to only effect the tangs and no other fish

[mike_dani]

Don't flame me I am adding only my peronal experiance with Tangshan and ich.

I have two large tanga one yellow and one D. Sailfin. I have found that even with a 45 day quarintine, I would still get ich in a virgin tank. I also belive that tangs just carry the parisite. What I have some is keep my mixed reef at 75 degrees and do a weekly dose of fish zoole 500 mil of metro per 20 gallons of water. With this I can go on record that mow it has been 3 months and have seen no ich on my fish.

This what works for me might work for you might not, I can say that my sps, lps and softies are doing great.

[Lightsluvr]

What I have some is keep my mixed reef at 75 degrees and do a weekly dose of fish zoole 500 mil of metro per 20 gallons of water. With this I can go on record that mow it has been 3 months and have seen no ich on my fish.


What is "metro" ???

LL

[NorthCoralNewB]

I would recommend to 200W heater place evenly apart from each other. Not only will this ensure and even distribution of heat, but if for any reason one heater where to die on you the other would act as a back up although it might not be enough to ensure no fluctuations.

Hope this helps.

Also your tank is too small for two tangs.

Also what is your salinity as this may play part of your ich issue

[Toddrtrex]

What type of tangs are they?

I would be shocked if the temp swing is causing the ick. While I currently don't have any tangs, back when I did they never had ick, and my temps swung 6* daily.

[autococker3]

I would recommend to 200W heater place evenly apart from each other. Not only will this ensure and even distribution of heat, but if for any reason one heater where to die on you the other would act as a back up although it might not be enough to ensure no fluctuations.

Hope this helps.

Also your tank is too small for two tangs.

Also what is your salinity as this may play part of your ich issue

so you are saying that a 75g tank is to small for two tangs:hmm3:

[Toddrtrex]

so you are saying that a 75g tank is to small for two tangs:hmm3:

I do believe he is, along with several others (( myself included )) in this thread.

[autococker3]

What type of tangs are they?

I would be shocked if the temp swing is causing the ick. While I currently don't have any tangs, back when I did they never had ick, and my temps swung 6* daily.

yellow and a hippo tang. only tangs get the ih. i have had about six of them with in 2 years and no success

[autococker3]

I do believe he is, along with several others (( myself included )) in this thread.

welcome to the to small forum lol:lol:

[Toddrtrex]

yellow and a hippo tang. only tangs get the ih. i have had about six of them with in 2 years and no success

A yellow is borderline for a 75, but IMO, a hippo will get way to big for a 75.

Losing 6 tangs in 2 years is pretty bad, can you give more info about your tank -- filtration, other fish in the tank, water parameters, etc. Also, are you QTing them? Lastly, do you know why the other 6 died?

[autococker3]

i have had my tank for two years and had no other fish die except tangs,i do a 20 gallon wc every 3 weeks. i use a six stage ro system. my salinity is 1.025 with a 30 gallon refuge. 100 pounds of liverock. protien skimmer. auto top off. also a reef tank and all corals are fine. no other problems but those damm tangs. i cant pin point anything else as a problem. this is why im in this forum because im a lost fishnatic.

[autococker3]

A yellow is borderline for a 75, but IMO, a hippo will get way to big for a 75.

Losing 6 tangs in 2 years is pretty bad, can you give more info about your tank -- filtration, other fish in the tank, water parameters, etc. Also, are you QTing them? Lastly, do you know why the other 6 died?

all the tangs died of ich. nothing fancy. i have 4 chromis.tomato clown.yellow tang that is doing good for the last 2 months.banded shrimp.six line wrasse. the hippo was a small one, and i dont have a qt tank set up

[NirvanaFan]

I would get another 300 watt heater and put it in the tank. 73 is to low in my opinion. Heaters do break/fail and when they do, it seems like they get stuck "on" so the temperature goes up. There are controllers that tend to work better, so people suggest them.

If you truly want to get rid of the ich, read some threads in the fish disease forum. There is lots of info there.

[Chris27]

Sounds like QT will indeed fix your problems then, I don't see temp swings or water quality as being the culprit given that everything else is doing well.

FWIW, Clowns and Chromis can be very resilient to Crypt, maybe it's their skin, or maybe it's one of the reasons they adapt to captive living better then most fish out there.

[autococker3]

I would get another 300 watt heater and put it in the tank. 73 is to low in my opinion. Heaters do break/fail and when they do, it seems like they get stuck "on" so the temperature goes up. There are controllers that tend to work better, so people suggest them.

If you truly want to get rid of the ich, read some threads in the fish disease forum. There is lots of info there.

thanks

[Chiefsurfer]

ok, so the ich is in your tank. Tangs, from what I have heard, are VERY succeptable to ich. Much more so than most other fish. This does NOT mean your other fish don't have it. I can just about guarantee they do. MOST fish, when properly fed, not too stressed all the time, and quite comfy in their tank, will have no problem with it. The temp swing might be just enough stress to let your tangs have an outbreak, and cause them to ultimately die. I would reccomend another 300 at the least. I would not get 1 600, but rather 2 300's, or 400's. This is a fail-safe that will keep from a faulty heater being stuck in the "on" position from boiling the tank. It will also keep the temp more stable.

My house regularly gets down to 55 2x a day, while I am at work, and while I am asleep. My 2 75watt heaters do phenominally, as with a 20 gallon tank, and those temps, my temp fluctuates MAYBE 1 degree all day and night long. If you can stabilize the tank, your tangs might have a better chance to survive the ich so you don't have to remove all the fish and have a fallow tank for 8 weeks.

If you do intend to get rid of the ich. You have to remove ALL your fish. EVERY ONE, and put them into a QT tank. Treat them all with hyposalinity, or copper on the scheduled terms, with the right levels. You must leave your DT completely fishless for 8 weeks or more. You can leave all your corals and inverts, just all the fish have to be out. Then you should be ICH free. Then when you get a new fish, QT for at least 4 weeks, with a full ich treatment before entry to the DT.

[mike_dani]

Metronidazole exerts a bactericidal action on gram positive and some gram negative bacteria. It is a simple way to keep ich at bay with tangs I had a virgin ich free tank and until I added the tanga never saw it. I also put them into a QT for 45 with hypo salinity prior to going into it.

My daughter who is 5 seems to drive the ich out at times when her and her friends are playing in our house. This has worked for me better than anything ever.




What is "metro" ???

LL

[autococker3]

Metronidazole exerts a bactericidal action on gram positive and some gram negative bacteria. It is a simple way to keep ich at bay with tangs I had a virgin ich free tank and until I added the tanga never saw it. I also put them into a QT for 45 with hypo salinity prior to going into it.

My daughter who is 5 seems to drive the ich out at times when her and her friends are playing in our house. This has worked for me better than anything ever.

where do i get this metro.

[stevek480]

I would definitely remove the Hippo tang. This is a fish that can grow to 12 inches; it is probably too stressed in the tank leaving it susceptible to ich.

If you do decide to get a controller for your heaters, I would go with the Reefkeeper Lite. It's $99 and it comes with a temp probe and 4 outlets for controlling various things (heaters,lights,ATO, etc). In the future you can expand it to control other functions also.

[mike_dani]

I get it from valley vet supply.com it is sold under the name fish zole or if you and your are cool you can get a script and go to your local pharmacy.



where do i get this metro.

[Chris27]

Metronidazole exerts a bactericidal action on gram positive and some gram negative bacteria. It is a simple way to keep ich at bay with tangs I had a virgin ich free tank and until I added the tanga never saw it. I also put them into a QT for 45 with hypo salinity prior to going into it.

My daughter who is 5 seems to drive the ich out at times when her and her friends are playing in our house. This has worked for me better than anything ever.

Given that Crypt is not a bacteria, but a parasite, how would Metronidazole keep Crypt at bay?

[mike_dani]

Great question to which I have no answer to, like I said it works for me