35G Sump layout questions

[Rybren]

Hi,

I'm in the process of upgrading to a 75G tank. I picked up a 36x12x19 tank to use as a sump.

I'm planning on 3 chambers (R to L): drain from DT, return area, fuge.

Here's my planned layout (sorry for the poor qaulity of the sketchup drawing)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_PsukGokN0FE/S4Hs3xX1-5I/AAAAAAAAAJA/UIli8UhpN4s/s800/35%20gal%20sump%20and%20skimmer.jpg

I'm wondering about baffle height. In the drawing, the bubble trap baffles are 10" for the low and 11" for the middle one. The fuge wall baffle is 14".

Any opinions on this layout? As well, I assume that 1/4" glass would work for the baffles? How much narrower than the tank width should they be?

Thanks.

[uncleof6]

Hi,

I'm in the process of upgrading to a 75G tank. I picked up a 36x12x19 tank to use as a sump.

I'm planning on 3 chambers (R to L): drain from DT, return area, fuge.

Here's my planned layout (sorry for the poor qaulity of the sketchup drawing)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_PsukGokN0FE/S4Hs3xX1-5I/AAAAAAAAAJA/UIli8UhpN4s/s800/35%20gal%20sump%20and%20skimmer.jpg

I'm wondering about baffle height. In the drawing, the bubble trap baffles are 10" for the low and 11" for the middle one. The fuge wall baffle is 14".

Any opinions on this layout? As well, I assume that 1/4" glass would work for the baffles? How much narrower than the tank width should they be?

Thanks.

Same basic sump design that I use (obviously,) only differing because I use external pumps. It does the job it is intended to do. Depending on the water depth the skimmer wants, I see nothing wrong with your baffle heights. You want around a 1/16" seam allowance between the baffles and the tank sides. Make sure silicone gets into the space.

Jim

[Rybren]

Thanks for your input Uncle, I was hoping that you'd reply.

I thought you might recongnise the design. They say that imitation is the sincerest from of flattery :spin1:

I'm running an Octopus recirc skimmer, so the water level in the sump isn't critical. I've run it both in and out of sump and the performance doesn't differ either way.

I'm not sure, but I think that this setup will have enough extra volume to accomodate drainage.


Thanks again

[Rybren]

Another question: Could I make the baffles higher and still have a decent safety factor for a power-out situation? As I figure it, with the current configuration, the tank would hold about 20-ish gallons when running, leaving 15G for drainage.

It would be nice to get a tad more water in there without risking a flood. (in case you haven't guessed, this is my first sump - my current setup has an above DT fuge)

Thanks

[lilredwuck]

On my tank 30 gallon tank, 20 gallon sump, when the power goes bye bye and the water siphons back my return line, it raises it about an inch. If I went over the top on the return I would have VERY minimal returning to the sump. I have a toothless overflow, if that helps with 2 1" bulkheads.

[lilredwuck]

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd346/lilredwuck/30%20X-High/004.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd346/lilredwuck/30%20X-High/002.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd346/lilredwuck/30%20X-High/007.jpg

It's just something you'll have to cut the power and see

[orion1]

I would suggest making the baffles from the skimmer to center 10 inches on the low and go 14 inches on the high

[Rybren]

Thanks for the input guys.

[gordie72]

Here's how I figure out if I have enough overflow capacity. measure how far your outflow pipe sits below the normal water level. Then, using the handy dandy tank volume calculator here (http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/tank-volume)(I hope that worked) with tank length, width and depth of output you will know how much you will overflow. Next, measure the DRY part (water level up to top of tank) of each segment of the sump and calculate the overflow volume of each, then add them together. As long as the available volume in the sump is greater than the actual volume of tank overflow, you'll be golden. Hope that makes sense

[rioreef]

I have the same setup as you are proposing. The heights on your baffles are good. Make sure the glass panes are smaller that the width of the tank and have a 1/4 or 5/16" 45 degree angle cut on the bottom corners. This takes into account the silicone bead that exists on the bottom edges of the sump itself. Otherwise the bottom corners of the baffles will be sitting on this seal.

My fuge section has the pane about 16 inches high. Install the baffles of the fuge and the last one of the three that make up the section of the return at an (bottoms kicked in towards the return pump about 1 inch. This way the water falling into this section will go down the panes and not 'spill over' otherwise vertical panes. Making splashing noises and adding bubbles.

I have a valve on the t'd line going to the fuge to control the flow into this section. I also have a full union valve just above the return pump for maintance and removal of the pump.

Do not make the return section two small, mine is about 8 inches wide and the water level at its max is about 1/2 inch below the last pane. This is the section where the water level will change due to evaporation and you do not want to much fluctuation.

As far as the sump filling during power cuts. I have a 90g tank and it fills the sump with about 2 inches to spare. To minimize the amount coming back into the sump, you drill a small hole in the return section that is in your display tank, just below the water level (about 1 inch). This way a siphon break will occur, stopping flow back down the return lines. This siphon break can stop the flow before the water level goes down further in the main tank down to the exits of the returns. For example in LilRedWucks pictures of the Y of the return in the tank, drill the hole in the middle of the Y (1/8 or 3/16 drill bit). In the example, it would stop several inches more of display tank water from going back down. Just remember to clean the hole every now and then.

Hope this helps.

[Rybren]

gordie72 & rioreef

Thank you very much for your suggestions.

The calculator and process were both useful. I had guestimated values, but it was worthwhile double checking.

I hadn't thought of removing the corners or slanting the baffles. I'll incorporate them both.

Rioreef; are you using 1/4" glass for the baffles? I priced some out today: $50 for the 4 pieces! (the top edge was polished) This sounds like highway robbery to me. I'll have to shop around some more and just sand the edges myself. I could also go acrylic for much less or even free (my local dealer usually has a large bin full of scraps in this size range) Unfortunately, I know that acrylic isn't recommended for a glass tank.

I had planned on installing an internal coast to coast, but with these glass prices, it would cost more than my tank!

Thanks again.

[lilredwuck]

you can use acrylic if you want to. Look into some epdm weather stripping. It's used for movable baffles. That way if you ever change anything you can just move the baffles. Take a look at this http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/bafflesart.htm

[rioreef]

My glass is either 1/4 or 3/16 and it was polished. If the high cost is for the glass itself and not the labor, you could get a 10g tank, take it apart and cut the glass yourself with a glass cutter. You could also ask what it would cost for the glass shop to cut the glass if you brought in your own.

[Rybren]

I went to a different glass shop last night - $25 for the glass, so I bought it.

I'll start installing the baffles tonight.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.