Radium Primer

[10001110101]

Here is a quick primer for using Radium bulbs.

Radium is a German light bulb manufacturer, founded in 1904, who's line ranges from regular incandescent to fluorescent, LED, and High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamps, of which Metal Halide is a particular variety.

Most of us are familiar with their 20k Metal Halide HID bulbs, which come in 3 different wattages.

150w Double Ended
250w Single Ended
400w Single Ended

These are the only three 20k bulbs that Radium makes designed to run on US voltage. They do not make any other color spec besides 20k, the three lamps above are the only three Radium bulbs available to us state-siders.

HOW TO PROPERLY USE YOUR RADIUM 20K BULB:
Radium bulbs are renowned for their ability to produce a crisp "ice-white" coloration that renders the full spectrum of colors visible to the human eye accurately, without monochromatic distortion which plagues other 20k bulbs known for a strong blue tint, aka "the Windex look," while still providing strong peaks in the 420nm/460nm spectrum, actinic violet/blue light, in order to provide excellent coral fluorescence. These bulbs are known for providing "the best of three worlds" full spectrum color rendition, coral growth (PAR), and coral fluorescence, or "pop/glow," all in perfect balance.

Many are unaware however, that these bulbs were not designed to run on electronic ballasts or probe start magnetic ballasts, save the 400w version.

If you have a 150w or 250w Radium bulb, it must be run on an M81 or M80 pulse start magnetic ballast respectively. These bulbs require a special ignitor found only in pulse start magnetic ballasts, and run at a slightly higher wattage than bulbs spec'd to run on an electronic or probe start magnetic ballast.

If you attempt to fire either on an electronic or probe start magnetic ballast, in most cases, it will fire. But you will lose a very significant amount of output (read 20-30% loss of brightness and PAR) which means less growth and an overall dimmer bulb. Not to mention, the color spectrum will shift, and the delicate balance of color that is a product of over a century of German lamp-manufacturing expertise, will be destroyed. You now have taken your $90 bulb, and turned it into your average $50 14k bulb.

If it does in fact fire on your non-spec ballast, don't expect it to do so for more than 6 months, these bulbs are not designed to run on these ballasts, and the manufacturer will tell you this. So now your $90 bulb will last you half as long, would you pay $180 for a phoenix 14k or aquamaxx, because if you are running your Radium on an electronic or probe start ballast, then essentially you will be paying $180 per year, instead of $60 for a comparable bulb.

Now if you have a 400w bulb, it is spec'd to run on a probe start magnetic ballast, which is also what electronic ballasts simulate. In this case either ballast will do, and a pulse start ballast will shift the color spectrum, overdrive the bulb, and reduce its lifespan.

[10001110101]

A quick note on the 150w version.

The 150w DE version is the newest bulb developed by Radium, according to Sanjay's tests it has a significantly smaller 420nm (violet) peak. It still has a very strong 460nm (blue) peak, but the 420nm (true actinic/violet) peak is almost absent, so it may appear to have slightly less "pop" than the SE versions, I own the 150w DE version on an M81 pulse start magnetic ballast, and the color is the most natural looking I have ever seen.

[Alex T.]

I've been contemplating going with radiums for quite a while now. I currently have two 400 watt Blueline ballasts with 400 watt 10k xms and Actinic supplementation. . Will this be adequate? I have a heavily stocked 150 SPS and clam tank but want to know if the bulbs will burn bright with these ballasts.

Thanks.

[10001110101]

the 400w version is designed to run on a probe start ballast. any e-ballast like blueline should work great, they actually run about 380w... whereas the 150w runs closer to 200w, and the 250 closer to 300w...

the 400w is the only one that shouldn't run on a pulse start ballast... it will overdrive the bulb.

in other words, you are G2G... the bulbs will burn bright, not as bright as a 10k bulb, but very bright for a 20k...

you will lose a significant amount of PAR compared to the 10k's but should have much better coloration, a worthy compromise IMO.


if you go to www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting you can see the actual side-by-side comparison of the two bulbs, it will have par (listed as PPFD) for each bulb, just plug in the bulb and your ballast and you can get exact figures and a full spectral plot, it doesn't have the blueline ballast listed, i think the closest ballast would be the magnatek for reference

[lovetoreef]

currently, i have a solana orb fixture that i am using the phoenix 14K in ... i have considered changing to the radium 20K bulb, what ballast would i need to change to so that i get the most light out of this bulb?? a link to a specific ballast would be great - also, how does the radium 20K compare to the phoenix 14K in regards to color and overall par?? Thanks.

[Alex T.]

After checking Sanjay's lighting/ballast chart on Manhattan Reef's website, it would appear that my Blueline 400 watt e ballast with a Radium bulb would provide an abysmal look. Way too blue with an average 250 watt ppfd rating in the 80's.

It appears these bulbs really need to be overdriven on a PFO HQI ballast to receive their true benefit and "pop" factor. Otherwise, it's a waste of money and electricity to buy this bulb with my current ballast configuration. I know par isn't everything, but I really want corals to grow, not just color up. While some of the Radium tanks I've seen here look spectacular (Reefbum) they're all run on HQI ballasts with the 400 watt bulbs. This isn't an investment I'm willing to make until my current ballasts are of no use anymore. Further looking into Sanjay's comparisons, an EVC 10k with supplemental actinic would be a great combo for me.

[Gary Majchrzak]

the 400w version is designed to run on a probe start ballast. any e-ballast like blueline should work great, they actually run about 380w... whereas the 150w runs closer to 200w, and the 250 closer to 300w...

the 400w is the only one that shouldn't run on a pulse start ballast... it will overdrive the bulb.

in other words, you are G2G... the bulbs will burn bright, not as bright as a 10k bulb, but very bright for a 20k...

you will lose a significant amount of PAR compared to the 10k's but should have much better coloration, a worthy compromise IMO.

perhaps you should clarify this:
can the 400w Radium run on a pulse start ballast?
(Reefkeepers are notorious for overdriving lightbulbs if at all possible!)
If powered by a pulse start ballast what will the results be on the SE 400w lamp?

Does the 400w Radium have an internal ignitor that might fight a pulse start ballast?

Alex- the 400w Radium is extremely blue (IMO) when juiced by a Blueline eballast ;)

[Gary Majchrzak]

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1616913&postcount=48

The Radium 400-watt Blue lamp (HRI-T 400W/230/B/E40) is actually a 360W lamp.
Here is the spec I received from the manufacturer:

Lamp: HRI-T 400W/230/B/E40
Rated Lamp Wattage: 360W
Color Coordinates (X): 0.2
Color Coordinates (Y): 0.16
Color: Blue
Lamp Base: E40
Bulb Shape: Tubular
Arc Current: 3.5A
Ignition Voltage: 4000V


I have the engineering OEM lamp spec somewhere but I'm having trouble locating it. This spec listed the design arc current along with the design arc voltage. It also provided more detailed ignition information (pulse height/pulse width/the required electrical pulse degrees).

Radium has designed this lamp as an energy saving lamp that should be operated on a low current ballast (European Mercury Vapor ballast equipped with an 4kV ignitor).

A European Mercury Vapor ballast with an Ignitor is similar to a North American ANSI M135 / M155 ballast.

Radium recommends against using a high current ballast (a ballast that is designed to provide a lamp with 4-4.5 amps). A high current ballast is a European High Pressure Sodium ballast equipped with the proper capacitor and ignitor. This ballast is commonly used in Europe for high current MH lamps ( MH lamps with an arc current at 4-4.5 amps / like the Ushio 10,000K).

I've had long discussions with Radium about ballast combinations. They have had people in Europe use a high current ballast with this lamp because many people are not aware there are two types of ballasts. Most have complained about having problems. The most common complaint was color shift over a short period of time and shortened lamp life. Radium recommends using low current ballasts with the 400W (actually 360W) version only. The other wattage lamps are designed for high current ballasts.


Hope that helps

[Gary Majchrzak]

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1617311&postcount=51

I got in contact with Radium while I was meeting my exporter in Europe. I use to import and distribute Radium products but after my contact at Radium left I havent dealt with them in over a year.

These ballasts will meet Radium lamp specs and recommendations:

Radium 150-watt Blue lamp (HRI-TS 150W/230/B/RX7S)
Ballast: ANSI M81

Radium 250-watt Blue lamp (HRI-T 250W/230/B/E40)
Ballast: ANSI M80

The 250W lamp has a design arc current of 3.0amps
An ANSI M80 ballast is designed to limit arc current at 3.0 amps

Radium 400-watt Blue lamp (HRI-T 400W/230/B/E40)
Ballast: ANSI M135 / ANSI M155

The 400W lamp has a design arc current of 3.5 amps
An ANSI M135/155 ballast is designed to limit arc current at 3.2-3.5 amps

The M80 is a perfect match for the 250W lamp and the M135/M155 is the best match for the 400W lamp.
Both ballasts meet the ignition voltage and pulse position (degrees).

Not all ballasts are a like. The Radium lamps are recommended to be operated at a set waveform / Current Crest Factor (CCF) of 1.5. A higher CCF will cause more wear on the arc tube.

The M80 ballast is currently only available in a HX (High Reactance Autotransformer) circuit type. This ballast will drive the lamp at the recommended CCF of 1.5.

The M135/M155 ballast is available in many different circuit types. Each circuit type will drive the lamp at a different CCF. The best match is a HX-HPF (High Reactance Autotransformer). The HX ANSI M135/M155 is currently only manufactured by one manufacturer to my knowledge (Venture Lighting International) http://www.venturelighting.com/VLPS/.../V90AM7630.pdf

Using the ballasts listed above should give optimal performance.

[10001110101]

Awesome input guys.

I did a little more research, the 400w is still a pulse-start, however, it is not designed to run under as much current as the HQI pulse start ballasts (M81, and M80, for example representing the 150w and 250w HQI pulse start ballasts) It is a "European Spec Pulse Start" according to Sanjay. A 400w HQI ballast will overdrive this bulb, but I don't think they are even available in the states to my knowledge, but my knowledge of 400w bulbs/ballasts is relatively limited.

Most of us deal with e-ballasts however... This is becoming increasingly common, pendants and retro kits are including predominantly electronic ballasts.

What effect will running an E-ballast without the 3-4kv ignition pulse, but proper wattage have? I don't know. Maybe someone else can better answer this question?

In response to above poster, I would not recommend overdriving this bulb, it will shorten the lifespan for one, and for another it will shift the color spectrum... Metal Halide bulbs are designed to run at a specific current/voltage, any deviation from this will most likely result in an undesirable change in color spectrum. The blend of metal halides within the arc tube is precisely balanced to produce a certain color at a certain current.

Overdriving T5HO bulbs is becoming more and more common, and many will state that 150w and 250w bulbs can be "overdriven" on HQI pulse-start magnetic ballasts, but really they are just being run to spec, instead of being underdriven.

I believe the phosphors in fluorescent tubes have a more static response to current, merely increasing in brightness all around when overdriven, having less effect on color spectrum shift, but I could be wrong about this.

[rangerD275]

I'm running two 250w 20k radiums on a galaxy dual 250w Ballast with Lumenmax elite reflectors. Is this combo not running my bulbs properly? I've only had them a week...

[10001110101]

I'm running two 250w 20k radiums on a galaxy dual 250w Ballast with Lumenmax elite reflectors. Is this combo not running my bulbs properly? I've only had them a week...

I think the galaxy's are better than most electronic ballasts, I believe they have a CPU that matches current to drive the bulb appropriately.

I don't know how well this works in practice, and it still lacks the 4kv ignition pulse, which probably has more to do with the longevity of the bulb than the actual performance.

Maybe someone with direct experience can chime in.

[rangerD275]

I think the galaxy's are better than most electronic ballasts, I believe they have a CPU that matches current to drive the bulb appropriately.

I don't know how well this works in practice, and it still lacks the 4kv ignition pulse, which probably has more to do with the longevity of the bulb than the actual performance.

Maybe someone with direct experience can chime in.

So far they look good, but I wonder how long that will last if they aren't being driven properly. I did read somewhere that the Galaxy's would run Radiums well, before I bought the bulbs.

[sowellj]

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/6/review

This article outlines the properties of some of the electronic ballasts. It is a good read. From a performance standpoint, it looks like are essentially the same.

[Paulairduck]

I would not worry about your radium/galaxy combo, I have used this combo for over five years, never had one issue and I get over a year out of a radium 250 watt 20k on a galaxy ballast. I have heard people going as long as a year and a half.

[rangerD275]

I would not worry about your radium/galaxy combo, I have used this combo for over five years, never had one issue and I get over a year out of a radium 250 watt 20k on a galaxy ballast. I have heard people going as long as a year and a half.

Good to hear, thanks for the info....

[jmoney]

Question, are the ballasts that come with the coralife aqualight pro fixtures ok to run the 150 de bulbs? And would I see a drop in par switching to radiums from phoenix?

[luther1200]

I think the galaxy's are better than most electronic ballasts, I believe they have a CPU that matches current to drive the bulb appropriately.



I think you are thinking about Lumatek ballasts. Unless galaxy do that also.

[luther1200]

Question, are the ballasts that come with the coralife aqualight pro fixtures ok to run the 150 de bulbs? And would I see a drop in par switching to radiums from phoenix?

I got a 150w Aqualight Pro and it had M81 ballasts. I'm sure yours are also. Black rectangles that are pretty heavy, they have a toggle switch on them? I had a problem with 1 and got 2 Lumateks 150w-250w. I am running my 150w Radiums on 175w with the Lumateks and they have been working great.

[Keith Thomson]

I know this has been asked before, but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Is the Aqua-Medic " Ocean Light 250 " ballast suitable for use with the 250w Radium bulb.
Thank's Keith.
______________________________________________

[ganjero]

I know this has been asked before, but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Is the Aqua-Medic " Ocean Light 250 " ballast suitable for use with the 250w Radium bulb.
Thank's Keith.
______________________________________________
Yes it is, well as long as is the old heavy external ballast box which is a M80 ballast

[jmoney]

yeah they are the black heavy boxes that say HQI on them with a toggle switch on the back

also would I have a significant loss in par going from 14k phoenix to the 20k radiums?

[ganjero]

yeah they are the black heavy boxes that say HQI on them with a toggle switch on the back

also would I have a significant loss in par going from 14k phoenix to the 20k radiums?
Not really. FYI the radium 250 is SE only, Im not sure if you are aware of that.

[James77]

also would I have a significant loss in par going from 14k phoenix to the 20k radiums?

What ganjero said plus the radium and phoenix on HQI are pretty similar, both in color and PAR.

[jmoney]

I'm going to be using 150watt switching from phoenix 150watt 14k

[cunningham]

:worried2:I hope so, this is the combo that I have purchased and was told was a good comboI would not worry about your radium/galaxy combo, I have used this combo for over five years, never had one issue and I get over a year out of a radium 250 watt 20k on a galaxy ballast. I have heard people going as long as a year and a half.

[Toddrtrex]

:worried2:I hope so, this is the combo that I have purchased and was told was a good combo

I have been using the Radium/Galaxy combo (( 2*250 )) over my 58 for about 1.5 years now. I have only used this combo so hard to compare, but I am very pleased with the results.

[cunningham]

I have been using the Radium/Galaxy combo (( 2*250 )) over my 58 for about 1.5 years now. I have only used this combo so hard to compare, but I am very pleased with the results.

Nice! thanks for the post I was starting to doubt my purchase.

[jmoney]

bump on my question of loosing par from switching between 150w 14k phoenix and 20k radium, because from my understanding going to 20k from 14k would stunt coral growth, unless the radium is really just incredible

[Reefer08]

So exactly what ballast should we use for a 400w Radium? If someone can recommend a brand that would be nice. Seems that the only thing left available on the market are electronic ballasts. Currently im using a galaxy to power my 400w Radium and after reading this thread im wondering if I should switch ballasts?

[rangerD275]

Nice! thanks for the post I was starting to doubt my purchase.

Same here, I just bought the radiums because I read somewhere on here that they run really well on Galaxy ballasts...whew:beer:

[cunningham]

Same here, I just bought the radiums because I read somewhere on here that they run really well on Galaxy ballasts...whew:beer:

Yep! read the same thing,then out I go buy.ing the bulbs and ballast, still have not used them yet ,i am still waiting on a new canapy:spin2:

[10001110101]

Well I did some intense research.

It seems the Galaxy, Lumatek, and Vertex ballasts, the three newest electronic ballasts, all drive the Radiums pretty similarly to an HQI ballast.


-250 watters are right spot on, minus the pulse start which according to a lot of folks hasn't really effected bulb longevity.

-400 watters will be overdriving the bulbs, but I looked at the spectral plot, and it seems like it should still look great, I have no idea about bulb longevity here but you get a very big PAR jump using the Galaxy ballast over the m135 spec ballast. 93 on spec ballast, to mid 120's using Galaxy/Lumatek/Vertex. All data per Sanjay and Advanced Aquarist.

It does seem to shift the spectrum proportionally more white, the blue peak is increased, but proportionally the warmer end of the spectrum is increased slightly more, as most expect when overdriving a 20k bulb.

So there you have it.

Galaxy/Lumatek both great choices it seems, and according to the few anecdotal accounts posted in this thread, bulb longevity is fine, but i've read on other forums people complaining about replacing bulbs every 6 months, I think galaxy/lumatek both wised up to this and made features that made their ballasts essentially accomodate just about whatever bulb you throw in there, some of them will even accomodate multiple wattages, and lamp types such as mercury vapor and high pressure sodium.

They call them "Digital Ballasts." They are also very popular for indoor marijuana cultivation, possibly much more so than reef keeping, which I gathered from several google searches trying to get info.

It seems the "other type of reefer" likes to be able to use both metal halide and high pressure sodium lamps to simulate seasonal variations in light spectrum (summer/fall) due to the spectral shift of the sun as the earth tilts on its axis, to maximize their harvest. Sorry if this is taboo to post, but I thought it was interesting.

So yeah I think galaxy/lumatek's will work well with just about anything.

[luther1200]

bump on my question of loosing par from switching between 150w 14k phoenix and 20k radium, because from my understanding going to 20k from 14k would stunt coral growth, unless the radium is really just incredible

I switched from Pheonix to Radium (150w) and my corals lightened up. The Radium definitely has more PAR. I should have acclimated my tank to the lights more. SO I would not worry about losing PAR, you will gain PAR.

[scolley]

This is a WONDERFUL thread. To the OP - THANKS for posting.

But I do have a question...
If you attempt to fire either on an electronic or probe start magnetic ballast, in most cases, it will fire. But you will lose a very significant amount of output (read 20-30% loss of brightness and PAR) which means less growth and an overall dimmer bulb.
I made the mistake of buying a Radium DE 150 for my tank. And since it's driven by my Current Orbit's Sunpark 120-MH150 ballast, this thread explains why I am not seeing the spectum that I mistakenly expected. That mistake is water under the bridge now.

But are you certain that this is running 20-30% dimmer than a comperable bulb? And if so, why?

'Cuz it would be a wonderful thing to get @25% more PAR just buy dropping in a new bulb, say a Phoenix.

Thanks again for the excellent thread!

[lovetoreef]

so, does can anyone clarify if the stock current solana ballast will power the radium completely??

[Chupakabra-King]

I have a Radium 250 watt bulb (Single ended) 14K (EDIT : Maybe its a 20K?) and have an electronic ballast . The bulb is pushing 1 1/2 yrs old and still produces the correct spectrum and is pretty darn bright . Im sure there is some dimming being it is so old , but it has been run on this ballast all this time with no color shift at all . I have already changed it out but I am keeping it for a backup bulb in case one of my new bulbs fail. Maybe I am lucky ? I dunno . I will definitely be running radiums in the future. Its the best bulb I have used and suits my taste perfectly.

[NorthernCF]

Has anyone tried the 250 with the icecap ballasts.

[10001110101]

This is a WONDERFUL thread. To the OP - THANKS for posting.

But I do have a question...

I made the mistake of buying a Radium DE 150 for my tank. And since it's driven by my Current Orbit's Sunpark 120-MH150 ballast, this thread explains why I am not seeing the spectum that I mistakenly expected. That mistake is water under the bridge now.

But are you certain that this is running 20-30% dimmer than a comperable bulb? And if so, why?

'Cuz it would be a wonderful thing to get @25% more PAR just buy dropping in a new bulb, say a Phoenix.

Thanks again for the excellent thread!

--Well what i'm saying is, other bulbs don't seem to lose as much PAR on E-ballasts, they "tolerate them better" and well just since they are cheaper the loss in PAR is more justifiable IMO. HQI pulse start ballasts will drive the bulbs harder (more power) than most e-ballasts, save possibly galaxy/lumatek. Every bulb will burn brighter and have a slight shift in color spectrum when driven harder... this is just the nature of MH bulbs and lighting in general. MORE POWER = MORE LIGHT. But the radium seems to lose a disproportionate amount of the green to red spectrum when run on eballasts, causing the "blue shift" to be proportionally greater than comparable bulbs. Really what you're seeing isn't more blue on eballasts, you're just seeing less of the other colors of the rainbow, so the blue stands out more.

--the 20-30% dimmer is in comparison to an HQI ballast, not a comparable bulb--, radium 20k still performs comparably to phoenix 14k at same wattage on same ballast, the phoenix has slightly higher 10-15% PAR numbers given same ballast. For me, it is hard to spend $90 on a bulb that may inevitably only last me 6 months and produces similar PAR/Coloration to a bulb $30 cheaper. The radium has better color than a phoenix on an e-ballast still, the phoenix seems much less natural, reds and pinks and greens are all duller, some colors get "washed out" under a phoenix...

Granted this is the 150w DE radium we are talking about, which is a slightly whiter and brighter animal than the 250w and 400w versions. The 250w and 400w versions have a

It's also worth noting that a 250w radium on a PFO HQI ballast (m80) draws about 330 watts of current at the plug! While the 400w Radium on the spec m135 ballast draws about 400 even at the wall.

So really the 250w bulb is basically a 300+ watt bulb, and the 400w bulb is like a 380w bulb...

PAR numbers reflect this per sanjay.

the 400w on spec m135 ballast puts out 93 PPFD at 18", while the 250w on PFO HQI m80 puts out 85.

Not a huge difference when driven to spec, but if you are concerned about electricity, realize that "250w" bulb is using closer to 350w of what you actually pay for. and the 400w is using exactly 400w.

So really a spec-driven 250w radium will perform similarly to a spec-driven 400w. Keep in mind tho these are using the PFO HQI ballasts, which are some of the higher output HQI pulse start ballasts. The 250w bulb also is the only bulb of the three to have a pronounced peak at 420nm, something to keep in mind.

The 400w will probably appear much bluer when driven to spec than the other bulbs...

Here's a comparison of the 250w, driven by a PFO HQI pulse start (m80) ballast
to a 400w driven by the m135 ballast.
Comparison of 400w vs. 250w (http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting2/spectraldata-line-2.php?Watts=400&Watts2=250&LampManuf=Radium&LampManuf2=Radium&Lamptype=Single+Ended&Lamptype2=Single+Ended&LampName=50&LampNameText=Radium+400W+20000K+SE+1&LampName2=12&LampName2Text=Radium+250W+20000K+SE+1&BallastName=20&BallastNameText=Venture+400W+Pulse+Start+%28M135%29&BallastName2=8&BallastName2Text=PFO+250W+HQI+%28M80%29&Shielded=N&Shielded2=N&Minwavelength=400&Maxwavelength=700&Submit=Submit)

[10001110101]

I have a Radium 250 watt bulb (Single ended) 14K (EDIT : Maybe its a 20K?) and have an electronic ballast . The bulb is pushing 1 1/2 yrs old and still produces the correct spectrum and is pretty darn bright . Im sure there is some dimming being it is so old , but it has been run on this ballast all this time with no color shift at all . I have already changed it out but I am keeping it for a backup bulb in case one of my new bulbs fail. Maybe I am lucky ? I dunno . I will definitely be running radiums in the future. Its the best bulb I have used and suits my taste perfectly.

That's excellent to hear! I love the look of radiums also, and maybe they are making their bulbs more "tolerant" of e-ballasts.

I hear a lot of people getting great results for 12+ months using electronic ballasts, particularly the newer galaxy/lumatek

And when you consider actual electrical efficiency, they ARE slightly more efficient (5-10%) on electronic ballasts, on a PPFD per Watt basis... So while you get less output, you're saving $$ on the electric bill so that's a fortunate trade-off.

Really I think PAR is less important than coloration, the great thing about running Radiums on a spec ballast is that they are pure white to the eyes, with a very slight pale blue tint (despite the massive blue spike on the spectral plot) but you have to understand our eyes don't see blue light nearly as well, and at the end of the day, it's about pleasing our eyes.

I look over at my tank right now, and I notice that EVERY color, even non-fluorescent pigments, in my tank, POPS.

Sometimes the pursuit of the ultimate glowing corals ends up ruining the coloration of our fish, invertebrates, and coralline encrusted live rock.

My friend has the same bulbs as me on his 55g reef, but on cheapo electronic ballasts, and sometimes I prefer the look of his, because it seems sometimes his corals have more glow to them, but my corals really glow just as much, but it is more well blended with the surroundings.

If i look at the light coming from the bulb, reflecting on the walls, ceiling etc... it is truly ice-white and about as good as I think i'll ever see. Looking inside the reflector, it is like a bright blue sky in winter, with the slightest touch of purple/pink, a fascinating coloration.

I am considering upgrading my lighting, I currently have 150w over my 40br, and it's enough, corals even at the edges of the tank grow and have great PE... but I'm going to be adding more SPS, all I have is a single birdsnest at the moment, and it's about 8" from the light.

I may have to use something like a Galaxy 150/175w twin ballast to save $$$ so i'll report the differences if I end up going that direction.

[burt]

great thread, have been wanting to try these lamps for a while but wasn't sure how they would run on my coralvue ballast, i have both 250w and 400w and was thinking of trying the 400w's any ideas how they will run?

[dan223]

What kind of ballast is an 250 watt aquamedic ocean light, I know its magnetic but not about the m80 thing or if it is pulse start or overdrives or underdrives, any tips on bulbs.

[mr9iron]

Interesting thread as I was just about to purchase a 150 watt HQI Radium for my JBJ Nano Cube 28. I guess I will either have to find a different bulb or purchase a new ballast. Any suggestions on the type of ballast?

[ganjero]

What kind of ballast is an 250 watt aquamedic ocean light, I know its magnetic but not about the m80 thing or if it is pulse start or overdrives or underdrives, any tips on bulbs.
Its M80, thats what you need to fire DE lamps.

Can we get more posts about longevity? How often should the 250 be replaced using galaxy vs M80? etc etc

[ganjero]

I found this from Paulerik about comparing M80 ballast to the new adjustable e-ballasts.
"M80 is an ANSI (American National Standards Institute) code specification. Each ANSI specification states the following:

Lamp starting requirements and limits (open circuit voltage, starting current, starting voltage, starting voltage pulse height, pulse width and pulse position).

Lamp warm-up parameters (reignition voltage and sustaining voltage).

Lamp operating parameters (operating current, operating voltage, operating wattage, operating current crest factor, sustaining voltage and voltage rise effect).

Each ANSI code specification varies. Lamp and ballast ANSI codes should always be matched to assure reliable, safe and expected performance. The ANSI code system is designed for matching ballasts and lamps properly.

Magnetic ballasts are designed to limit lamp operating current. An ANSI M80 specification specifies a nominal 3.0 amps to the lamp. The lamp operating voltage is set by the lamp specification/design. The lamp operating voltage can be altered by the lamp’s chemistry and discharge chamber (arc tube) size. The lamp operating wattage is set by both the ballast (available current) and lamp (set voltage). With magnetic ballasts it is important to match the ballast specification with the proper lamp. They both work very closely together.

Electronic metal halide ballasts are designed to output a specified wattage and maintain the wattage within a few percent. Generally electronic ballasts are designed to output the lamp’s nominal rated wattage and designed to meet the other requirements for the specified lamp.

I personally do not see lamp manufacturers approving the use of some of these electronic ballasts. The switchable electronic ballasts are a nice idea but it still will not allow all lamps to operate as intended or designed. ANSI specifications state the lamp nominal operating wattage. ANSI M58 (probe start 250-watt), ANSI M138/M153 (pulse start 250-watt) and ANSI M80 (pulse start 250-watts) are all specified as 250-watts nominal. However some lamps are designed to a higher operating nominal wattage and some lamps are designed to a lower operating nominal wattage. Note when comparing magnetic ballast’s input or even output wattage the ballast circuit type (CWA, CWI, Reactor or High Reactance Autotransformer) has to be taken into account. Each ballast circuit performs differently overtime and has different characteristics. One ballast may draw or provide less power when the lamp is new and increases overtime. Another type can draw or provide more when the lamp is new and actually decreases overtime. Light output initially and overtime will vary with each ballast type as well.

For example the Radium 250-watt lamp is designed to operate at 270-watts nominal when operated with a ballast designed to limit/provide lamp operating current to 3.0 amps same as an ANSI M80 ballast. The Radium 250-watt lamp is designed with a higher lamp operating voltage. When used with the recommended/approved magnetic ballast the lamp is allowed to operate at the designed wattage. The Radium 400-watt lamp is designed to operate at 360-watts when operated with a ballast designed to limit/provide lamp operating current to 3.5 amps. The closest and recommended ballast available in North America is a magnetic ANSI M135/M155 ballast which is designed to limit lamp operating current to 3.25 amps. The Radium 400-watt lamp is designed with a lower lamp operating voltage. When used with the proper magnetic ballast the lamp is allowed to operate at the designed wattage. The magnetic ANSI M80 and ANSI M135/M155 ballasts not only allow the Radium lamps to operate at the designed wattage but also meets all other parameters (starting, warm-up and operating).

Output wattage is only a part of an electronic ballast. An electronic ballast has to be designed to meet the starting, warm-up and operating requirements and limits for a lamp. Most of the electronic ballasts currently available in the hobby do not state which lamps or ANSI specification they are technically designed for or meet. It would be nice to have an electronic ballast that could meet the requirements and limits for all lamp types or ANSI specifications but this is unfortunately impossible. Commercial electronic ballasts from major North American companies such as Advance Philips, Sylvania, Universal and Venture Lighting state which lamps they are designed for and which specifications are met.

Input power and light output tests only show a part of the story. It appears some of these newer electronic ballasts available in this hobby might be pushing the limits. The numbers Sanjay has released do not add up correctly. In my opinion it seems some companies are pushing lamps above the rated lamp wattage to provide higher light output, which makes their ballast appear better than others on paper. Also note generally when you drive a metal halide lamp at higher wattages the efficiency goes up because the lamp’s spectrum in broadened. This can also greatly increase the risk of a lamp violently failing. Major lamp manufacturers will not approve the use of a ballast that operates a lamp past the wattage rating because of the increased risk, light color shift and unknown long-term performance. A test showing the output power (lamp operating power) would be nice but it would not be easy unfortunately. The voltages and frequencies these ballasts operate at make it more difficult to get reliable readings and require specialized equipment and testing rigs. Some of the major lamp manufacturers I’ve personally spoken with haven’t been able to test these newer ballasts for approval. It seems as some ballast companies are not wanting to.

If you know which lamp you want to use, it would be best to use the recommended and approved ballast. This assures reliable and safe operation overtime. Not every ballast is the same. With magnetic ballasts you have different circuit types and with electronic ballasts you have different designs but more importantly both magnetic and electronic ballasts should be match with the proper lamp. Each type has its own ups and downs.

Hope that helps some"

[lukinrats]

Interesting. I have some serious reading to do!~

[luther1200]

Its M80, thats what you need to fire DE lamps.

Can we get more posts about longevity? How often should the 250 be replaced using galaxy vs M80? etc etc

M80 is a 250w ballast. If you are talking 150w it would be an M81.

[ganjero]

M80 is a 250w ballast. If you are talking 150w it would be an M81.
If you read the question that I was answering, they asked for 250w, but good clarification anyways.

[Hammsreefbeer]

Ok after 3 days of reading my head hurts.My Ice cap ballast is dead and my wife had a Advance M138/M153(250w mag)ballast sent to me but everything i have read says to use a M80 ballast.:confused:I thought this was the perfect match for the 250w radium bulb?Please help me so i can get light back on.

[Hammsreefbeer]

what i do know that this ballast will(?) under power the bulb but not to sure.

[AcroporAddict]

I run a Radium 250 watt 20K SE bulb on a CoralVue dimmable e-ballast and have been for months and the rendition is fine and par is excellent. Your information does not stack up to real world experience.

[rob.mwpropane]

So I just bought 2 dimmable lumateks.150, 175, 250, 275. If I went with 250 radiums, would they be ok, and what setting would I put it on.275 for hqi?

[10001110101]

I run a Radium 250 watt 20K SE bulb on a CoralVue dimmable e-ballast and have been for months and the rendition is fine and par is excellent. Your information does not stack up to real world experience.

I have no experience with the CoralVue Dimmable E-ballast...

I have no idea how it drives the 250w Radium, I'm assuming it does about the same as a galaxy/lumatek which is a little bit over standard wattage but not quite hqi wattage.

Probably sends about 265w to the bulb itself, drawing somewhere around 275 from the wall i'd imagine. An M80 HQI ballast will pull around 330w at the wall, sending over 300w to the bulb itself, making it significantly brighter.

A person's perception of an "attractive look" can be very different from another's. What constitutes "too much blue" is far from a thin line.

Color rendition and PAR are very subjective in this instance, w/o proper measurements... PAR can be changed by simply lowering/raising the bulb and/or switching out reflectors. I would personally have no problem running a radium on ANY ballast, even underdriven they are fantastic light bulbs.

But they are one of a kind light bulbs when used with the proper ballast.

Claiming that my information, which is based upon my "real world experience", does not stack up, is a bit presumptuous.

[10001110101]

So I just bought 2 dimmable lumateks.150, 175, 250, 275. If I went with 250 radiums, would they be ok, and what setting would I put it on.275 for hqi?

I would put it on 275, not quite as much drive as a true M80 but should give you a better look and more PAR.

Honestly just try out which looks best to you, you may like the 250 look better, it's all very personal, depends how much blue/par you want.

[10001110101]

Ok after 3 days of reading my head hurts.My Ice cap ballast is dead and my wife had a Advance M138/M153(250w mag)ballast sent to me but everything i have read says to use a M80 ballast.:confused:I thought this was the perfect match for the 250w radium bulb?Please help me so i can get light back on.


That ballast is actually a pulse start as well, it will properly fire a radium, running it at 250w... You'll have less par and a bluer look than if it was driven off of an M80 ballast (~300w) but it should fire the bulb just fine and you should get good bulb life as well ~12 months.

[Willistein]

Aside from a small efficiency benefit in going to an e-ballast, why would one run 250W radiums on them? I've heard many stories about e-ballasts not being too reliable, but I'm not sure what the reality is. I just ordered a Bluewave 7 and two 250 radiums. I'm excited to see how they look.

[Gary Majchrzak]

sheesh... you could spill water on Blueline eballasts and they won't short out.
Eballasts are extremely reliable IME. They run cool- one big reason for using an eballast. Another big reason is because they'll fire any bulb in their rated wattage. That's huge.

[Willistein]

Yeah, I can see the flexibility being a big plus. I do know of at least a couple issues with blueline but it was years ago. I'm trying radiums so I figured I'd get the spec'd M80 ballast. I do wonder how the bulbs would run on the newest e-ballasts; galaxy and others.

[ibnozn]

Will Coralife Aqualight Pro ballasts run the 250 watt single ended bulb? I've read that the ignitors are in the fixtures on the Aqualight Pros so although it's supposedly an M80 ballast would it be able to start the bulb?

[lukinrats]

Hi,

I am planning on running radiums with the Lumatek ballast (either Dimmable or Selectable) Which one will be the best choice for the Radiums?


Thanks,
NathanS

[boxer385]

Hi,

I am planning on running radiums with the Lumatek ballast (either Dimmable or Selectable) Which one will be the best choice for the Radiums?


Thanks,
NathanS

i would like to know i have a 250 watt lumatek so i'm wondering can i run a radium bulb??

[bluface]

Glad i found this thread. I have been looking at Radium for a while now. I have two 400 watt ballasts from Aquamedic. It's the silver rectangular heavy sucker. Will these ballasts do the work?

[bluface]

bumpy road

[RichK]

Great thread. For those who want to build their own ballasts for the Radium 400s, I used three of these in an old Hamilton ballast box:

http://www.1000bulbs.com/400-Watt-Pulse-Start-Ballast/28113/

Piece of cake to wire up.

[bluface]

too bad this thread died and gone to heaven....

[ganjero]

I run a Radium 250 watt 20K SE bulb on a CoralVue dimmable e-ballast and have been for months and the rendition is fine and par is excellent. Your information does not stack up to real world experience.
Coralvue dimmable ballasts overdrive bulbs 10%, so your are probably running the radium at 275w. Coralvue says to play with the knob until you fill a small click and that should be the normal output of the ballast in your case 250w. I got rid of my cv dimmable ballasts because of this, it way to hard to find the exact spot and if you move the knob all the way then you overdirve the bulbs 10%.

Glad i found this thread. I have been looking at Radium for a while now. I have two 400 watt ballasts from Aquamedic. It's the silver rectangular heavy sucker. Will these ballasts do the work?

They should work (Im almost sure those are HQI magnetic ballasts) but they will overdrive the 400w radium bulb a lot, you'll need to replace them every 6 months which is what most of the people that run the 400w radium do.

[bluface]

They should work (Im almost sure those are HQI magnetic ballasts) but they will overdrive the 400w radium bulb a lot, you'll need to replace them every 6 months which is what most of the people that run the 400w radium do.[/QUOTE]


Thanks. Is there any way of telling for sure? I contacted Aquamedic and they are not much help.
The ballasts read 60 V, 100 HZ 430 watts, Then it says 400 watts?

[C-21 USAF]

Just purchased two LumenMax elites and brand new Radium 250s.

I have one plugged into a Bluewave 7 (pulse start HQI ballast I believe)

I have the other plugged into the Galaxy.

Both are over my 150 gallon and the one connected to the Bluewave looks more blue but the one plugged into the Galaxy looks whiter and brighter.

Does doesn't seem to make since from what I've read on here...shouldn't it be the other way around?

[AaronReeph]

C-21 USAF,

Which model Galaxy ballast are you using? If it is selectable, which setting is it on?
How long have the bulbs been running? How old is the Galaxy and how old is the Blue Wave?

Also, the BlueWave 7 is designed to run two bulbs. I'm not sure how its circuit is layed out but it is possible that it could drive a bulb differently if you only have it running one instead of two.

[C-21 USAF]

C-21 USAF,

Which model Galaxy ballast are you using? If it is selectable, which setting is it on?
How long have the bulbs been running? How old is the Galaxy and how old is the Blue Wave?

Also, the BlueWave 7 is designed to run two bulbs. I'm not sure how its circuit is layed out but it is possible that it could drive a bulb differently if you only have it running one instead of two.

Okay guys, I jumped the gun a little on this one. After my post last night I reversed the lights on the ballasts. You'd think that the light that was brighter/whiter on the Galaxy would now look bluer on the Bluwave...not the case! Both lights looked as they did before I reversed their respective ballast!!!???

SOOooooo, I pondered this and the only idea I came up with was that one Radium (the whiter one) had about 10 hours on it (I hooked it up one night before the other) before I started the other...perhaps they start off looking blue and turn more white???

My Galaxy is the old dual 250 watt...not switchable and is about a year old. The Bluewave has about a month of use on it.

I might hook them both up to the Galaxy/Bluewave (in case their is a circuit issue) and re-evaluate.

[ksc]

Sometimes it takes a week for the bulb to get to it's final color

[AaronReeph]

Sometimes it takes a week for the bulb to get to it's final color

+1

The (broken in) Radiums on the magnetic ballast should look whiter (and if you measure it put out around 30% more PPFD*--according to Sanjay's website)

I'd go with the BlueWaves.

*They do also use about 30% more power. But this is not a concern IMO. I went MH bc its good for my inhabitants, not to save money on my power bill.

[C-21 USAF]

+1

The (broken in) Radiums on the magnetic ballast should look whiter (and if you measure it put out around 30% more PPFD*--according to Sanjay's website)

I'd go with the BlueWaves.

*They do also use about 30% more power. But this is not a concern IMO. I went MH bc its good for my inhabitants, not to save money on my power bill.

I live in military housing, so I don't pay the bills anyway!

I'm going to use the Bluewave...Thanks guys!

[AaronReeph]

I live in military housing, so I don't pay the bills anyway!

I'm going to use the Bluewave...Thanks guys!

Thats a great position to be in with a reef tank! ;)
Good luck

[ganjero]

I live in military housing, so I don't pay the bills anyway!

I'm going to use the Bluewave...Thanks guys!

Thats just wrong, then me and all of us pay your bills (with taxes). Plus think greener than that, its not just about $$$.

[AcroporAddict]

Coralvue dimmable ballasts overdrive bulbs 10%, so your are probably running the radium at 275w. Coralvue says to play with the knob until you fill a small click and that should be the normal output of the ballast in your case 250w. I got rid of my cv dimmable ballasts because of this, it way to hard to find the exact spot and if you move the knob all the way then you overdirve the bulbs 10%.

I'm not really sure why you found the dimmable feature hard to work? It is easy to find the 250 watt setting on the ballast. Coralvue dimmable ballasts come with a knob that turns between 100% -35% dimming. If you turn the knob it stops just before it "clicks". This postion is 100% (250 watts) The click postion is 10% overdrive.

Sorry you had problems working it, as they are fantastic ballasts.

[C-21 USAF]

Thats just wrong, then me and all of us pay your bills (with taxes). Plus think greener than that, its not just about $$$.

Not to hijack, but this can't go unchallenged...When I'm in the desert and you're at home on the couch it doesn't seem like it's as good a deal as you make it sound...you're getting a lot of bang for your tax dollar when goes to the military unlike say, healthcare for example.

[Eldredge]

not to hijack, but this can't go unchallenged...when i'm in the desert and you're at home on the couch it doesn't seem like it's as good a deal as you make it sound...you're getting a lot of bang for your tax dollar when goes to the military unlike say, healthcare for example.

+1 (and I'm not associated with the military)

[RokleM]

Word of warning, if you guys take this thread political it will get locked with a quickness. I'd suggest you drop it here and now and take your thoughts to a PM discussion both parties feel the need to continue.

[ganjero]

That's your choice

[BlueCorn]

This is a reef keeping forum. If you're unable to keep politics out of a discussion about aquarium lights then you need to find a new board to post on. It won't be tolerated here.

[C-21 USAF]

This is a reef keeping forum. If you're unable to keep politics out of a discussion about aquarium lights then you need to find a new board to post on. It won't be tolerated here.

You're absolutely right, my apologies.

I went ahead and hooked both lights into the Bluewave and am very pleased with everything and will be selling my Galaxy...Thanks for the help guys!

[AaronReeph]

Glad you like the BlueWave Radium Combo! Any pics to show us? ;-) It would be AWESOME if you could post a comparison of the radiums driven by the Blue Wave and then the Galaxy!

[C-21 USAF]

I already thought about this and two factors come to mind:

1. The bulbs are still burning in so it's hard nail down what any combo will look like for sure.

2. So far, I can tell a difference between the two but it's so slight that I'm not sure of a camera could.

Let them burn in a week or two and then I'll switch the ballasts and see what I get.

[Willistein]

Yeah, before you sell the galaxy, and after the bulbs are a week or two old, fire them with both and try to get some comparison pics. Maybe you could set your camera to full manual (if you can) to get the exact same settings each time.

[sanababit]

hey nice write up clutch or 1141

sana

[evil4g63]

I have a coralife 150watt pendant and I want to know if it's ok. I've been running a radium bulb for close to 3 weeks now and my corals are gaining color every day but I think it's to much light. I had a 14k bulb before but it didn't put out nearly as much light as this one. It's a really bright white with a hint of blue. Is this how it's supposed to work?

[C-21 USAF]

Sounds like my experience as well.

[Demonic]

So I read and what I am getting from this is my Bluewave 1 and 2 400w ballast will not run the Radiums, and if I decided to use them anyway it would overdrive the bulb and decrease the life of them. Right or Wrong?

[SkyPapa]

I have running 3 250W reeflux 10K on Icecap electronics in LB minis on my 180 with 2 140W VHO 03 actinics. I have been using 10k plus actinic for years but also have tanks with T5HO and even some pc s.
I have been wanting to try radiums and finally got a Hamilton hqi ballast and a 250w radium.
Here is a couple of shots with the radium on the right side. The images look pretty close but i think it's not so blue in real life. The left side shot is closest.
Bulb is only 1 day old in this pic.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm161/skypapa/Radiumrightview.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm161/skypapa/Radiumleftview.jpg

I'm pretty sure I am going to change the others.
Anyone want a deal on 3 6 month old icecaps if I do?

[Toadally]

I'm a little confused about something and I hope someone can clear things up for me. I have a 36" Current Outter Oribit 2x 150 watt 4x 39 watt T5. It's listed as a High intensity PowerPaq HQI metal halide lighting system. Now will this fixture run the 150 watt Radium bulbs? Is the ballast a HQI - M81 ?? Thanks a mil!

[tegee]

For the record....The Galaxy Select-a-Watt and the Lumatek Dimmable are the same exact ballast. Even the people at Sunlight Supply are confused as to way they named the Lumatek "dimmable", when in fact it is a select-a-watt ballast???

[Doobze]

I'm a little confused about something and I hope someone can clear things up for me. I have a 36" Current Outter Oribit 2x 150 watt 4x 39 watt T5. It's listed as a High intensity PowerPaq HQI metal halide lighting system. Now will this fixture run the 150 watt Radium bulbs? Is the ballast a HQI - M81 ?? Thanks a mil!

I have the exact same fixture and I've been wondering the same thing. I think this fixture has an electronic ballast? But I'm not really sure

[Toadally]

I have the exact same fixture and I've been wondering the same thing. I think this fixture has an electronic ballast? But I'm not really sure
From what I'm reading HQI refers to the type of bulb, so when it's paired like - HQI, M81 it's referring to a magnetic ballast. I do think the Current Outter Orbit fixtures that have the ballasts in the fixture are indeed electronic. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

[Joel A]

so can someone just give me a straight answer? What is the preferred ballast to run 2x 150 watt radiums?

[Toadally]

so can someone just give me a straight answer? What is the preferred ballast to run 2x 150 watt radiums?
I just talked on the phone with one of the LFS's and from what I understand, he's the go to guy when it comes to lighting. He says, the Current HQI 150 watt fixture will run the Radium bulb to specs.

So take it for what it's worth.....

[ksc]

The Radium 150 is designed to be fired by an M81 ballast.

[Zebodog]

This particular Outer Orbit fixture uses an electronic ballast. http://www.current-usa.com/outerorbit.html

An electronic ballast will probably fire the bulb but it will not run the Radium to its proper specification. What you'll end up with is a colour and PAR roughly equivalent to the Phoenix 150W but with reduced lifespan and additional cost outlay.

As has been said, the Radium needs to run on an M81 (150W) or M80 (250W) ballast if it is to perform to it's designed specifications. Electronic ballasts won't cut it.

[Joel A]

The Radium 150 is designed to be fired by an M81 ballast.

but earlier in this thread, it said that electronic ballasts like the Galaxy and Lumatek are fine for running these bulbs? Is that wrong?

I haven't delved into the metal halide world for a while, but i seem to remember that M81 and M80 ballasts were going out of style fast.. are they still produced mainstream by manufacturers for the reefing community?

[Toadally]

This particular Outer Orbit fixture uses an electronic ballast. http://www.current-usa.com/outerorbit.html

An electronic ballast will probably fire the bulb but it will not run the Radium to its proper specification. What you'll end up with is a colour and PAR roughly equivalent to the Phoenix 150W but with reduced lifespan and additional cost outlay.

As has been said, the Radium needs to run on an M81 (150W) or M80 (250W) ballast if it is to perform to it's designed specifications. Electronic ballasts won't cut it.
I guess my "go to" lighting guy was mistaken. :hmm2:

[Zebodog]

I run 2X150W Radiums on 2XM81 Ballasts with no other supplementation.

I believe the 150W Radium will actually pull approximately 180W when driven properly. This provides a nice crisp white with a hint of blue however the corals "pop" as if they were under actinics. I don't have a PAR meter however the tank is obviously brighter than the previous 14k Phoenix's. Growth appears to have exploded since switching as well, but I can't support that with scientific data; only my own observations.

If your current e-ballast can drive the Radium's to the 175W-180W range then you'll likely be getting full performance. If your ballast caps out at 150W, as a lot of electronic ones do, you'll get Phoenix style colour and performance and a slightly reduced operating life - which is perfectly accpetable but why pay the extra dollars for a Radium when a Phoenix would be identical for less money?

EDIT: The only person able to run a Radium 150W to the proper specs on a standard e-ballast is Chuck Norris.

[scolley]

but earlier in this thread, it said that electronic ballasts like the Galaxy and Lumatek are fine for running these bulbs? Is that wrong?
OK. I'd like to throw a bit of kerosene on this fire...

I've got a 150w DE Radium over my 29g in an Orbit fixture - standard Orbit ballast, whatever that is. Because it's an Orbit, that MH light is augmented by a couple of low wattage T5 Actinic bulbs. And because it's a standard 29g the fixture is actually wider than the tank, and most of that actinic light spills over the sides. That said...

I finally received my long awaited combination of a Lumentek 250-400w switchable (dimable) ballast, a Radium 250w SE bulb, and a Lumen Bright DW Mini Wide reflector. With MUCH anticipation I hooked them all up this past weekend, turned off my Orbit, fired up the 250w Lumentec Radium, and swung that bad boy into place! And do you know what I saw????

Nothing.

That's right - nothing. And my family saw it too. Sure, it looked like crap until the bulb warmed up. And sure it looked brighter in those areas where the Lumen Bright threw more light. But my wife - the visual artist - saw NO DIFFERENCE in color across the Before/After setups. Nor did anyone else.

You tell me. I can't explain it - I don't remotely understand this electronic vs. magnetic ballast crap. But I'm DAMN SURE about what we observed.



PS - my first observations were driving the bulb a 250W, where the colors "might" have been brighter. Maybe - there was the whole 250w vs 150w problem. But when running that same 250w bulb at the higher "HQI" setting, there was absolutely no difference in color to be seen, beyond that evidenced by the 150w rRdium pushed by the Orbit ballast. Counter intuitive, I know. But it's what we observed.

[Doobze]

Ok, so let's make this even simpler for us 150w guys. I'm trying to upgrade my ballasts in my outer orbit to run this bulb. Which exact, particular ballast will do it correctly? I've been searching but can't seem to find too many specs and the selection is a bit confusing. Can somebode a link to a few different models maybe?

[SC Trojan]

Ok, so let's make this even simpler for us 150w guys. I'm trying to upgrade my ballasts in my outer orbit to run this bulb. Which exact, particular ballast will do it correctly? I've been searching but can't seem to find too many specs and the selection is a bit confusing. Can somebode a link to a few different models maybe?

Im kinda in the same boat too. Ive been wanting to run some radiums in my sunpod but know the electronic sunpark ballast that they have wont properly run a radium. How about a lumatek (i think or maybe the galaxy)150w-250w select-a-watt ballast which has a 175w setting, i think it would drive the bulb to spec or near it and you will always have the opportunity to upgrade to a 250se Radium when the opportunity comes!! a win win in my book. Has anybody tried the 175w setting on the selectables with a radium?

[Doobze]

Im kinda in the same boat too. Ive been wanting to run some radiums in my sunpod but know the electronic sunpark ballast that they have wont properly run a radium. How about a lumatek (i think or maybe the galaxy)150w-250w select-a-watt ballast which has a 175w setting, i think it would drive the bulb to spec or near it and you will always have the opportunity to upgrade to a 250se Radium when the opportunity comes!! a win win in my book. Has anybody tried the 175w setting on the selectables with a radium?

Dittod, I would love to know how the lumateks run them

[tegee]

but earlier in this thread, it said that electronic ballasts like the Galaxy and Lumatek are fine for running these bulbs? Is that wrong?

I haven't delved into the metal halide world for a while, but i seem to remember that M81 and M80 ballasts were going out of style fast.. are they still produced mainstream by manufacturers for the reefing community?


If you want to run the Radium to "spec" than you need a "true" magnetic/pulse start HQI ballast. But the newer electronic ballast do have HQI setting trying to push the Radium bulb (10% higher) from the research I have done and some knowledgeable people I have spoke.

I am too torn between a Hamilton M80/HQI ballast or the newer Galaxy Select-a-Watt for my new 250w setup I am planning.

HTH

[Toadally]

ok, I'm gonna make it even more simpler, I'm going to use the Iwasaki 50k bulb. Sanjays bulb testing puts it just about even with the Radium bulb in par and wavelength. I've read that a lot of people really love this bulb and like it as a Radium replacement.

[SkyPapa]

...

I haven't delved into the metal halide world for a while, but i seem to remember that M81 and M80 ballasts were going out of style fast.. are they still produced mainstream by manufacturers for the reefing community?

The only true M80 I have found is the Hamilton 250W HQI.
I have one with a radium I've been trying and have ordered 2 more 'cause I think I like the look.
There are probably others but after reading all the radium threads and doing numerous googles, the Hamilton is what I found.
They also have 150W HQIs

[tegee]

Clay....I just order (1) 250w Hamilton HQI to try out and will than decide on replacing the other two from there. I simply could not pull the plug on the Galaxy Select-a-Watt, just not enough time out in the reefing community running the Radium imho. The Hamilton/Blue Wave/PFO HQI M80's have been tested for many years running Radiums to spec and that was the final decision for me. Like I said, I only bought one full assembly and will decide on replacing the other two setups after a couple of weeks running the Hamilton HQI and 250w Radium. I am really excited to see the results and will post asap once installed.

Thanks everyone for a great thread on the subject of Radiums and matching ballasts.....

[halmahera]

I just bought 2 each of Lumenbright Mini Wide Pendant, Lumatek e-Ballast 240-400 and Radium 400W. I hooked everything up last month ago and noticed the colors produced by each bulb are not the same, that is one is much more blueish and the other is much-much more yellowish. The bulbs are 400W 20KK so I run it at 400W setting on the select-a-watt lumatek's e-ballast. When I contacted the seller, he asked me to burn the lamp for a few more days and see if the spectrum will change, but after almost one month, I think the yellowish one doesn't change to bluish at all, maybe worse than before.
I took out the bulbs from the pendant and noticed some different between the two bulbs, since I can't explain it with words, I took some photos of them.

This one produces the correct 20KK spectrum
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/GOOD_0532_WEB.jpg
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/GOOD_0533_WEB.jpg
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/GOOD_0534_WEB.jpg

This one produces yellowish spectrum maybe around 6500-10000K
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/BAD_0530_WEB.jpg
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/BAD_0531_WEB.jpg
http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae227/linkp2p/BAD_0535_WEB.jpg

Any one know how to solve the problem ? OR maybe I got a bad batch of bulbs ?

[ibnozn]

OK. I'd like to throw a bit of kerosene on this fire...

I've got a 150w DE Radium over my 29g in an Orbit fixture - standard Orbit ballast, whatever that is. Because it's an Orbit, that MH light is augmented by a couple of low wattage T5 Actinic bulbs. And because it's a standard 29g the fixture is actually wider than the tank, and most of that actinic light spills over the sides. That said...

I finally received my long awaited combination of a Lumentek 250-400w switchable (dimable) ballast, a Radium 250w SE bulb, and a Lumen Bright DW Mini Wide reflector. With MUCH anticipation I hooked them all up this past weekend, turned off my Orbit, fired up the 250w Lumentec Radium, and swung that bad boy into place! And do you know what I saw????

Nothing.

That's right - nothing. And my family saw it too. Sure, it looked like crap until the bulb warmed up. And sure it looked brighter in those areas where the Lumen Bright threw more light. But my wife - the visual artist - saw NO DIFFERENCE in color across the Before/After setups. Nor did anyone else.

You tell me. I can't explain it - I don't remotely understand this electronic vs. magnetic ballast crap. But I'm DAMN SURE about what we observed.



PS - my first observations were driving the bulb a 250W, where the colors "might" have been brighter. Maybe - there was the whole 250w vs 150w problem. But when running that same 250w bulb at the higher "HQI" setting, there was absolutely no difference in color to be seen, beyond that evidenced by the 150w rRdium pushed by the Orbit ballast. Counter intuitive, I know. But it's what we observed.

Scolley from what I understand, the electronic select-a-watt ballasts even on their "HQI" setting still don't overdrive the 250W Radium SE with as much wattage as one of the true magnetic HQI ballasts; all of which have the Advance M80 Core & Capacitor. You'll see some improved color and output from the bulb with an electronic select-a-watt but not as much as with a magnetic HQI.

I have an Orbit 150 W pendant as well and a 150W DE bulb running on the Orbit's Sunpark 150W ballast was brighter than the Radium 250W SE before I switched to a M80 HQI.

[ibnozn]

Any one know how to solve the problem ? OR maybe I got a bad batch of bulbs ?

Looking at your pics it seems that one has the inner bulb nipple oriented above horizontal while on the other the nipple is oriented below horizontal. The nipple and ignitor wire should be in the same position on both—either facing up or down; nipple up is generally preferred. Nipple down often produces more yellow coloration in MH bulbs. Seems as if you have it this way from your photos.

[Maximus]

Looking at your pics it seems that one has the inner bulb nipple oriented above horizontal while on the other the nipple is oriented below horizontal. The nipple and ignitor wire should be in the same position on both—either facing up or down; nipple up is generally preferred. Nipple down often produces more yellow coloration in MH bulbs. Seems as if you have it this way from your photos.

My bulb's nipple., no matter how I screw it in, is impossible to have the nipple facing up. I wonder if you have to screw the bulb in tight, or can you leave it with a little play so the nipple can face up?

[halmahera]

Looking at your pics it seems that one has the inner bulb nipple oriented above horizontal while on the other the nipple is oriented below horizontal. The nipple and ignitor wire should be in the same position on both—either facing up or down; nipple up is generally preferred. Nipple down often produces more yellow coloration in MH bulbs. Seems as if you have it this way from your photos.

I just screw the bulbs into their socket, the nipples of both lamp are facing down at the optimum fit, as always, but who knows, in curiosity I switched on the lights, again, no difference at all. FYI, at first seconds, upon the ignition, the bulbs are behaving the same way, very similar, slowly changing intensity and spectrum from the start, till both reach the 20KK spectrum. The good one stays at bluish 20KK spectrum, the bad one then slowly change it's spectrum to let's say 6500K or 10000K

[ibnozn]

Mine's the same way. I can't get the nipple to exactly 12:00 position. What I read just said it as having the nipple "above or below the horizontal plane". Don't think it needs to be exact. You're probably good anywhere between 10:00 and 2:00. halmahera should just make sure both of his bulbs are screwed in the same amount.

[tegee]

Scolley from what I understand, the electronic select-a-watt ballasts even on their "HQI" setting still don't overdrive the 250W Radium SE with as much wattage as one of the true magnetic HQI ballasts; all of which have the Advance M80 Core & Capacitor. You'll see some improved color and output from the bulb with an electronic select-a-watt but not as much as with a magnetic HQI.

I have an Orbit 150 W pendant as well and a 150W DE bulb running on the Orbit's Sunpark 150W ballast was brighter than the Radium 250W SE before I switched to a M80 HQI.


Do you know if the Hamilton HQI M80 ballast fits this category of properly driving a 250w Radium? When I called Hamilton they told me that their HQI ballast drives it at 250w "at the bulb". I do not know if that means it has higher wattage at the wall/ballast or not? I am a bit confused. I know the old SunLight Supply BlueWave is or was the preferred HQI, but Hamilton still makes an HQI and I bought only (1) setup to try. It is coming in this week and I look forward to seeing it drive a 250w Radium. But I did speak to two separate people at Hamilton and bot confirmed how it drives Radiums. They say it drives them to factory spec???

[dja1980]

I currently own a pair of 400w CoralVue Dimmable ballast, and I’m considering giving the Radium bulbs a shot. I just finished reading this entire thread, and I’m still a bit confused as to whether or not it would be in my best interest to switch ballasts to run these bulbs.

Everything I’ve read in the past regarding Radium 400w bulbs is that it’s best to run them with the PFO HQI ballast, overdriving them (430w). However, most everything I’m reading here states that it’s best to run these bulbs at spec (380w).

With my 400w CoralVue Dimmable ballasts, I believe I’m able to run bulbs anywhere from 260-440w (35% dimmable, 10% overdrive). If I am understanding this correctly, what would be the best setting to run the Radium bulbs… dial the ballast down to 380w, dial it up to 430w, or set it somewhere in-between?

[tegee]

dja1980......I am the furthest thing from a lighting expert, but my 2-cents from all the reading and homework done over the past couple of months leads me to believe that if you want to run a Radium bulb to "spec" (be it 250 or 400w) they need to be run on a magnetic ballast.

I have my Hamilton M80 HQI ballast and 250w Radium bulb being delivered today. I am really anxious to see how the bulb/ballast configuration will run. If all goes well I will plan on ordering the two other setups to complete my lighting change out. I will keep everyone posted.

HTH

[ganjero]

My bulb's nipple., no matter how I screw it in, is impossible to have the nipple facing up. I wonder if you have to screw the bulb in tight, or can you leave it with a little play so the nipple can face up?

It doesn’t have to be pointing straight up, just pointing in the upper half. If yours points to the lower half when the bulb is fully screwed in, then remove the socket, remove the screws that hold the inside parts in the socket, flip it 180 degrees and screw everything back in.

BTW I was a strong believer of using true HQI ballasts with these bulbs, but recently I've seen tanks where reefers are using lumatek, galaxy & ARO ballasts to fire these bulbs and not only do they look great but the bulb holds its PAR for about 1.5yrs (Checked with a PAR meter).
Check out this tank: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457892&highlight=rigleautomotive
He uses Radium with ARO Ballasts and changes the bulbs every 1 to 1.5 years.

[C-21 USAF]

I'm run this bulb and would like to check my "nipple" position.

Can anyone explain what/where the "nipple" is according to the pics?

[dja1980]

I'm run this bulb and would like to check my "nipple" position.

Can anyone explain what/where the "nipple" is according to the pics?

This is from the CoralVue website...

"It is important that SE mogul base lamps are positioned in the correct burn position. Please refer to the drawing and notice the small glass nipple in the center arc tube of the lamp. It is critical, for the correct color temperature to be obtained, that the nipple be positioned in the 12pm location when screwed into the E40 mogul socket. To help align this position you may have to pull the center tab in the mogul socket out to gain some length where the lamps base makes contact with the center metal tab. Make sure that once positioned in the correct angle that the bulb is snug and stable in the socket."

http://coralvue.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/lamp-diagram1.gif

[ibnozn]

Do you know if the Hamilton HQI M80 ballast fits this category of properly driving a 250w Radium? When I called Hamilton they told me that their HQI ballast drives it at 250w "at the bulb". I do not know if that means it has higher wattage at the wall/ballast or not? I am a bit confused. I know the old SunLight Supply BlueWave is or was the preferred HQI, but Hamilton still makes an HQI and I bought only (1) setup to try. It is coming in this week and I look forward to seeing it drive a 250w Radium. But I did speak to two separate people at Hamilton and bot confirmed how it drives Radiums. They say it drives them to factory spec???


All true ANSI M80 250W magnetic ballasts have this inside:
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=165

It would be the same raw ballast, capacitor and ignitor inside whether it were a Bluewave 3 or a PFO or Hamilton 250W M80 HQI. All of them use the Advance 71A5880, which is what was discontinued and unfortunately Advance was the only manufacturer of the raw ANSI M80 250W ballast. Also, by "true" I mean that some manufacturers call their magnetic ballasts HQI when they aren't. Coralife 250W Aqualight ballasts are labeled "HQI" but use a Chinese copy of the Advance ballast inside and don't run the SE Radium to spec. In fact, I think they only work with a Coralife fixture because of a special ignitor they need so steer clear of them.

I don't know exactly what Hamilton meant by 250 watts at the bulb. "Factory spec" is a relative term though since supposedly an ANSI M138 ballast is also "spec" for the 250W Radium, according to Sanjay Joshi. Trouble is that it will run the bulb at a wattage close to 250, so it's really blue and not very bright at all. (you'll get amazing purple color in your corals though!) According to this site: http://cnidarianreef.com/G180/lamps.php an M80 HQI ballast will run the Radium with more than 300 watts and as you can see there is also a vast difference in PAR. Not even the new select-a-watt ballasts drive the bulb with as much wattage, which is why they're not quite cutting it as magnetic HQI alternatives.

You should be happy with the Hamilton. I went through all this a few months ago and wound up with the Hamilton too.

[ganjero]

All true ANSI M80 250W magnetic ballasts have this inside:
http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=165

It would be the same raw ballast, capacitor and ignitor inside whether it were a Bluewave 3 or a PFO or Hamilton 250W M80 HQI. All of them use the Advance 71A5880, which is what was discontinued and unfortunately Advance was the only manufacturer of the raw ANSI M80 250W ballast. Also, by "true" I mean that some manufacturers call their magnetic ballasts HQI when they aren't. Coralife 250W Aqualight ballasts are labeled "HQI" but use a Chinese copy of the Advance ballast inside and don't run the SE Radium to spec. In fact, I think they only work with a Coralife fixture because of a special ignitor they need so steer clear of them.

I don't know exactly what Hamilton meant by 250 watts at the bulb. "Factory spec" is a relative term though since supposedly an ANSI M138 ballast is also "spec" for the 250W Radium, according to Sanjay Joshi. Trouble is that it will run the bulb at a wattage close to 250, so it's really blue and not very bright at all. (you'll get amazing purple color in your corals though!) According to this site: http://cnidarianreef.com/G180/lamps.php an M80 HQI ballast will run the Radium with more than 300 watts and as you can see there is also a vast difference in PAR. Not even the new select-a-watt ballasts drive the bulb with as much wattage, which is why they're not quite cutting it as magnetic HQI alternatives.

You should be happy with the Hamilton. I went through all this a few months ago and wound up with the Hamilton too.

I wouldn't say a "vast" difference in PAR. There is an increase in PAR, which is also proportional to the increase of watts used. You can also see that the HQI ballast has this effect on all the bulbs.

The other problem I see with most of these test is that you know the specs for the bulb ( what the bulb actually needs to receive) but what people are measuring is the input into the ballast, not the output which is what the bulb is really getting. In your link the tester even makes that clear "...Note the data under the ballast is not the power going to the lamp, rather what the ballast is drawing from the wall outlet..."
A good test should measure what the ballast is capable of sending to the bulb, how they transformed what they draw to what they push out.

[ibnozn]

I just screw the bulbs into their socket, the nipples of both lamp are facing down at the optimum fit, as always, but who knows, in curiosity I switched on the lights, again, no difference at all. FYI, at first seconds, upon the ignition, the bulbs are behaving the same way, very similar, slowly changing intensity and spectrum from the start, till both reach the 20KK spectrum. The good one stays at bluish 20KK spectrum, the bad one then slowly change it's spectrum to let's say 6500K or 10000K

I'd contact Radium and ask what the "o8" on one bulb and the "x3" on the other bulb mean. Could be different manufacturing dates or batch of bulbs, etc. The construction certainly looks different. I didn't notice it before but that's got to have something to do with it.

[tegee]

Thanks guys.....all these info helps immensely. Unboxing the Hamilton HQI and hopeful to have it up and running this evening. Will keep you posted asap.

[ibnozn]

I wouldn't say a "vast" difference in PAR. There is an increase in PAR, which is also proportional to the increase of watts used. You can also see that the HQI ballast has this effect on all the bulbs.

The other problem I see with most of these test is that you know the specs for the bulb ( what the bulb actually needs to receive) but what people are measuring is the input into the ballast, not the output which is what the bulb is really getting. In your link the tester even makes that clear "...Note the data under the ballast is not the power going to the lamp, rather what the ballast is drawing from the wall outlet..."
A good test should measure what the ballast is capable of sending to the bulb, how they transformed what they draw to what they push out.

I don't disagree with you. Sure, the HQI overdrives all of the bulbs to a greater degree and does use more power. I wasn't really talking about efficiency though so much as output. E-ballasts are designed to be more efficient. Jumping from a PAR of 283 on the standard PFO to 395 on the PFO HQI certainly is significant if it isn't "vast". PAR output on the ARO ballast of 320 is somewhere in between.

In the study I think the tester is saying that the tables at the bottom below the photos indicate what the ballast is pulling from the wall. Did you see the "Actual power to lamp." section and graph in the upper section of the page? I was referring to that part of the article.

[ganjero]

You are right, thats the kind of test I was referring to. Hopefully somebody does one like this for the newer ballasts.

[ryanjiang]

I recently switched from all-T5 to 2X 250W Radium on galaxy, to my surprise my Apex report 3AMP draw from each bulb. That also exaplains C-21's observation.

Anyone has idea approximately how many AMP will go to the bulb v.s used in the ballast? If it is true that e-ballast is more efficient than magnetic how come few people used both think PFO is still slightly brighter and whiter than the galaxy? From the number of my Apex, seem that both draw same AMP on the wall.

BTW you can see the effect of light change on my 75G SPS tank here (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17220805#post17220805).

[PaulErik]

I recently switched from all-T5 to 2X 250W Radium on galaxy, to my surprise my Apex report 3AMP draw from each bulb. That also exaplains C-21's observation.

Anyone has idea approximately how many AMP will go to the bulb v.s used in the ballast? If it is true that e-ballast is more efficient than magnetic how come few people used both think PFO is still slightly brighter and whiter than the galaxy? From the number of my Apex, seem that both draw same AMP on the wall.

BTW you can see the effect of light change on my 75G SPS tank here (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17220805#post17220805).

Which Galaxy ballast model are you using? 3 amps seems slightly high.

Amperage is not a good indicator for how much power the lamp actually operates at. The ballast will also adjust the output voltage which will alter the output amperage. Power factor also comes in to play with inductive loads. One ballast can draw double the amps compared to another but both use and output the same wattage because of differing power factors.

The output side of a magnetic ballast is easy to test if done properly. Unfortunately most electronic ballasts in the hobby operate at a very high frequency and are equipped with built in high voltage starting circuits. This makes testing costly and more difficult.

[PaulErik]

If anyone is searching for an ANSI M80 ballast you may want to find out more about the product. Some companies like Coralife use a ballast that is similar but not really a true ANSI specification M80 ballast and falls short in a few parameters (lower Open Circuit Voltage OCV, different lower cost ballast circuit type CWA vs HX and a higher current crest factor). The Sunlight Supply imported version met the ANSI M80 standard and was a pretty good copy of the Advance model IMO. I have no idea what Hamilton or Aquamedic is using today. Most likely they use an imported one as the only North American company offering a bare ANSI M80 is Sylvania Osram but is not cheap.

[ryanjiang]

Thank you Paul!

My galaxy is dual-250 model, production year 2009.

Since it is difficult to measure the internal loss of e-ballast, the general rule of e-ballast is more efficient than mag. may be simply wrong.

Now assume my apex reading of 3AMP/per lamp on wall is correct (it should be, right?) that is 330W on wall per lamp, that equals to power draw of a M80.

I may need to consider to switch to SLS bluewave 7 (M80), according to respected reefers who has run both, 250W radium is slightly (one describe as 10%) whiter/brighter on bluewave than on galaxy.

Can anybody tell me if the bluewave is noisier , hotter, much bigger size than galaxy?

[PaulErik]

3 amps seems slightly high. Sanjay tested the single lamp Galaxy 250-watt ballast. The peak operating should be right around 2.49 amps at 285 Watts input. You must factor in the power factor to get the actual wattage. I haven’t seen any information concerning how efficient the electronic ballasts are in this hobby. Generally with commercial grade medium wattage (250-400W) ballasts are at least 90% efficient but these ballasts are designed for 240/277 volts. 120 Volt ballasts will be lower due to the added circuitry.

One thing to keep in mind is how differently electronic ballasts and magnetic ballasts operate. With an electronic ballast the output wattage is highly regulated and is maintained within a few percent. With a magnetic ballast the amperage is limited and the wattage is set by the available current and the lamp’s designed operating voltage. It is difficult to operate lamps to spec with none standardized specification lamps such as the Radium 20,000K lamps on electronic ballasts.

[C-21 USAF]

Thank you Paul!

My galaxy is dual-250 model, production year 2009.

Since it is difficult to measure the internal loss of e-ballast, the general rule of e-ballast is more efficient than mag. may be simply wrong.

Now assume my apex reading of 3AMP/per lamp on wall is correct (it should be, right?) that is 330W on wall per lamp, that equals to power draw of a M80.

I may need to consider to switch to SLS bluewave 7 (M80), according to respected reefers who has run both, 250W radium is slightly (one describe as 10%) whiter/brighter on bluewave than on galaxy.

Can anybody tell me if the bluewave is noisier , hotter, much bigger size than galaxy?

I've had both...unless your tank is super uber quite, you're just splitting hairs. I consider my tank fairly quite and never heard either....and I can still hear well at 32! Hotter? Maybe a little, but again, kind of splitting hairs. Bigger, yes it's bigger. I suggest you get actual measurements off a unit as I've found the manufacturer's specs to be off by an inch or two.

[ryanjiang]

3 amps seems slightly high. Sanjay tested the single lamp Galaxy 250-watt ballast. The peak operating should be right around 2.49 amps at 285 Watts input. You must factor in the power factor to get the actual wattage. I haven’t seen any information concerning how efficient the electronic ballasts are in this hobby. Generally with commercial grade medium wattage (250-400W) ballasts are at least 90% efficient but these ballasts are designed for 240/277 volts. 120 Volt ballasts will be lower due to the added circuitry.

One thing to keep in mind is how differently electronic ballasts and magnetic ballasts operate. With an electronic ballast the output wattage is highly regulated and is maintained within a few percent. With a magnetic ballast the amperage is limited and the wattage is set by the available current and the lamp’s designed operating voltage. It is difficult to operate lamps to spec with none standardized specification lamps such as the Radium 20,000K lamps on electronic ballasts.

Man it is too technical for me, can not understand, should I get a kill-a-watt and measure the wattage?

[ryanjiang]

I've had both...unless your tank is super uber quite, you're just splitting hairs. I consider my tank fairly quite and never heard either....and I can still hear well at 32! Hotter? Maybe a little, but again, kind of splitting hairs. Bigger, yes it's bigger. I suggest you get actual measurements off a unit as I've found the manufacturer's specs to be off by an inch or two.

C-21 I just checked the bluewave is discontinued by SLS, are you using bluewave 7? If so can you kindly measure it for me? Thanks a bunch!

Seems 1 by 1 they are discontinue mag ballast, why?

[PaulErik]

Sorry if that was too technical. To put it simply you can get the wattage draw just from the amps. Power factor comes into play and it can be complicated. A Kill-A-Watt meter by P3 International is a great tool for the end user. It will calculate the wattage draw correctly from electrical devices because it takes the power factor into account. Still this only shows how much power the ballast and lamp are using together. You can not really know what the lamp is operating at.

The part about the ballasts is electronic ballasts and magnetic ballasts are very different. The Radium lamps are designed around magnetic ballasts. It is difficult to design an electronic ballast to operate the Radium lamps properly.

[tegee]

C-21 I just checked the bluewave is discontinued by SLS, are you using bluewave 7? If so can you kindly measure it for me? Thanks a bunch!

Seems 1 by 1 they are discontinue mag ballast, why?

Hamilton still carries the traditional HQI ballast. I just bought one: http://www.hamiltontechnology.com/category/Metal-Halide-Replacement-Ballast-6/rec/10 . Waiting for the reflector cord, that I did not know I had to purchase separately. Should be in today or Monday. I'll hook up and let you know how I make out. My expectations are high since I have been waiting for some time to run Radiums.

BTW: You can still find SLS Bluewaves on eBay and other horticultural sites if you really want a SLS BW HQI ballast. I choose to by the Hamilton, which I believe has the same internal components???

[C-21 USAF]

C-21 I just checked the bluewave is discontinued by SLS, are you using bluewave 7? If so can you kindly measure it for me? Thanks a bunch!

Seems 1 by 1 they are discontinue mag ballast, why?

I would but I'm out of town until the 27th...shoot me a PM if you still need the measurements by then and I'll measire it for you.

I theorize SLS is moving forward with "newer" technology in it's e-ballasts to the demize of the magnetic.

[IRISSERVICE]

LOL still confused which woow ballast to use...maybe easier if i get 250w..

[Dyraxe]

I wanted to buy 3 HQI bluewaves from Aquacave. They were sold out so they told me they are cutting prices on the 250W Reeflex Cube HQI Ballast by Aqua Medic. This was fantastic because they are nicer anyhow. So I got the Aqua Medic. I assume these will be a great match for the Radium 250w since it is a M80 HQI ballast.They claim to be made in the USA, although I thought AquaMedic was German?

[ryanjiang]

How do you like the AquaMedic, is the fan quite?

I am using lumenmax elite, the cord plug is special type and only plug into SLS ballast, I need to look into adapter if I will switch to AquaMedic.

[Dyraxe]

I do like them better then the dual 400w bluewave ballast I had. They are not loud IMO but I keep them in the cabinet under the tank. They look better then the bluewave but then again do we really care what the ballast looks like? =)

[johnike]

Glad I stumbled across this. I have 3 400W Hamilton M135 ballasts that I've been using with Hamilton bulbs for years. Really don't want to ditch them, but it seems nobody uses them. Radium, Ushio, for replacement bulbs? No supplemental lighting is being used. Thanks, John.

[FiReC]

I've been burning a Radium 150W on a lumatek select a watt for 7 months. When I first got it... the 150w setting looked great, crisp white with blue hint just awesome like everyone says. I tried 175 for kicks... really yellow on a new bulb. After 5 months I noticed the bulb was duller, so I cranked it up to 175 and bam looks almost new again. Now at 7 months I've pulled the bulb, seems to have had a color shift from the nice white to more of a phoenix blue look. Anybody else with select a watt and 150w radium experience?

[nicknguyen]

I've been burning a Radium 150W on a lumatek select a watt for 7 months. When I first got it... the 150w setting looked great, crisp white with blue hint just awesome like everyone says. I tried 175 for kicks... really yellow on a new bulb. After 5 months I noticed the bulb was duller, so I cranked it up to 175 and bam looks almost new again. Now at 7 months I've pulled the bulb, seems to have had a color shift from the nice white to more of a phoenix blue look. Anybody else with select a watt and 150w radium experience?

I have the same ballast and bulb. it's been about 5 months now and have always keep it on the 150. I also run 4 t5 actinics. Might try the 175 setting in a couple of months once the bulbs get a little older.

[bigsink]

Great Thread!

[catman78]

Hi All,

For those using Blue Waves. Do the make any noise that would stand out besides the usual tank noise? Fans, Overflow, etc..

Considering switching from T-5's to 2X250 Radiums over 120.

Also, I would need to build a much deeper canopy.
Any canopy pics? What's recommended high for Bulbs above water?

Thanks

[SkyPapa]

I posted earlier in the thread about trying out one (out of 3) 250w radium on a Hamilton hqi ballast.
Well, I liked the color and made the switch to all 250w Radiums.

I really like the look and my colors are changing (to a better) color daily.

The other thing is I have new growth all over.
I realize these are new bulbs but I was running 10K Reefluxs on Icecaps and they were only 5 months old.
My corals have only seen 10k (+actinics) for the last 5 years.

[Toadally]

I posted earlier in the thread about trying out one (out of 3) 250w radium on a Hamilton hqi ballast.
Well, I liked the color and made the switch to all 250w Radiums.

I really like the look and my colors are changing (to a better) color daily.

The other thing is I have new growth all over.
I realize these are new bulbs but I was running 10K Reefluxs on Icecaps and they were only 5 months old.
My corals have only seen 10k (+actinics) for the last 5 years.
How did you like the Reeflux 10k's? I've been thinking about trying them out in the 150 watt version. How was growth color etc. ??

[SkyPapa]

How did you like the Reeflux 10k's? I've been thinking about trying them out in the 150 watt version. How was growth color etc. ??


I liked the reeflux, ran them for 3 years or so.
It a bright light with a slight yellow tinge.
I ran actinics to offset that.
Had good growth, I like the colors better now with radium.

[James77]

Hi All,

For those using Blue Waves. Do the make any noise that would stand out besides the usual tank noise? Fans, Overflow, etc..

Considering switching from T-5's to 2X250 Radiums over 120.

Also, I would need to build a much deeper canopy.
Any canopy pics? What's recommended high for Bulbs above water?

Thanks

My BlueWave ballast is nearly silent, it has the faintest hum. The height above the water depends on which reflectors you go with. I use LumenMax 2, and the bulb to water is above 9-10". I have mine mounted so the bottom of the reflector sits on the top of the canop, so you don't need as high a canopy.

Pic of BigJays canopy, where I got my idea- this is not my tank:

Melev gave me a hand with my 180 gallon canopy. He took my extremely shallow canopy, cut holes in it, and mounted my three lumenmax pendants on top.

Here you can see the VHO actinics and all three faceted reflectors with glass covers.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn239/akenitzki/LIGHTS3.jpg

Here are the pendants with the canopy closed.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn239/akenitzki/FTS2.jpg

[tegee]

SkyPapa......

Just installed (3) 250w Radiums on Hamilton's M80 HQI Ballast and really liking what I see. It took me several weeks to order and get delivered and setup the installation. Finally got it done over the long weekend. Was running CoralVue Electric ballasts with XM10'k and did not like the color. I am so excited with this new setup and I have high expectation with Radiums, so I hope they live up to all the hype.

I'll keep everyone posted. And I will try to get some pics up as soon as I figure out my new Canon T2i SLR...it has been a bit of a learning curve to say the least...lol.

Great thread.......

[SkyPapa]

I think you will be happy tegee.:celeb1:

[psykokid]

Will a m59 ballast run a 400w Radium to spec or under/over drive it?

[psykokid]

bump

[JAustin]

Radium is not designed to run on M59. Also I would stay away from 400w radium. They seem to have switched manufactures or something because both bulbs i bought a month ago are PINK! I sent one back that's real pink for a replacement bulb and the other is just a little pink.....maybe just less blue. When i install my 8 month old radium its 10x bluer than new new bulbs. The old one has different inside parts.

[jpsika08]

Tegee,
How about an FTS with your new Lights setup? I will go the same way you did and would love a preview, thanks :)

[tegee]

Sure......can you give me a couple of days? Work is going to be nuts today and tomorrow. If I should forget shoot me a PM. Love the Hamiltons and Radiums. Just replaced the LumenBright Mini's with Sunlight Supply LumenMax Elites and love them over the LBM. Much better light distribution and penetration. My SPS's stressed a bit even with the LME hanging slightly higher, which tells me that they are giving out more intense light???

[jpsika08]

Tegee, thank you very much, no problem, post when you can. :)

What's the distance between your lights and the water surface with the LumenMax Elite reflectors?

[BrooksReef]

Hi!

So, I have a 150w DE Radium 20k and I tried running it on a SunPark 150w HQI Electronic ballast, and it is burning YELLOW. This is not the first bulb I've tried that burns yellow, though. I also put in a 14k Phoenix and it also did. However, it is currently burning a 14k SPS blue? What is going on here?!

Any input is greatly appreciated!

[jlt23]

My 250W SE on a galaxy ballast is running yellow too. This is my first MH setup so not sure what the deal is.

[Toddrtrex]

My 250W SE on a galaxy ballast is running yellow too. This is my first MH setup so not sure what the deal is.

I have been running the Radium/Galaxy combo for about 3 years now, and never had then run yellow at all. IMO, that isn't normal at all for this combo.

[RokleM]

I haven't run into it myself, but I've occasionally heard of bad radium bulbs that burn yellow instead of a light blue or crisp white. If you believe the ballast is good, I would contact the place you purchased the bulb.

[Alex T.]

I'm also running Radium/Galaxy combo and don't get any yellow at all. Slight blue tint to sparkling white dominance. I'd say it's your bulb.

[jlt23]

Thanks everyone. I will look into it.

[BrooksReef]

Hi!

So, I have a 150w DE Radium 20k and I tried running it on a SunPark 150w HQI Electronic ballast, and it is burning YELLOW. This is not the first bulb I've tried that burns yellow, though. I also put in a 14k Phoenix and it also did. However, it is currently burning a 14k SPS blue? What is going on here?!

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Anyone know more about this?

[nikon187]

The sunpark electronic ballast is the wrong ballast for the 150w radium. There are may reports where they will only come on for 15min and then shut off. The pheniox is also a hqi bulb and should be run on the correct ballast ( a magnetic hqi) The South pacific sunlight (SPS) bulb does not need an hqi ballast hence the proper colour.

[BrooksReef]

Sweet. Can you recommend a good magnetic HQI ballast for the Radium, Nikon?

[tegee]

Hamilltons work great and very cost friendly.

[jpsika08]

+1 on the Hamiltons.

[nikon187]

i run my 250 off a hammilton as well.

[SkyPapa]

Hamilton m80s and 250w Radiums here too.

[nozleman]

Anybody know if I am running the right ballast for my 400W radiums? I have the PFO 400w HQI ballast? Thanks in advance!

[johnike]

Is anybody running Hamilton M135's like me? If so, what bulbs are you using?

[PPBravo]

Hello

Can I run a 250W radium on a coralvue dimmable ballast? Thanks

[Mr. Brooks]

Anyone running a 250 watt radium on a galaxy select-a-watt ballast set on the HQI setting? Are you happy with this set up?

[Ball]

Anyone running a 250 watt radium on a galaxy select-a-watt ballast set on the HQI setting? Are you happy with this set up?

Im running this setup. Im happy with it. Its a nice whitish/blue look and is pretty bright. No comparison to the setup I had before which was XM20K's on Icecaps.

[cdamiano]

Hello

Can I run a 250W radium on a coralvue dimmable ballast? Thanks

I tried this combo and it was too blue for me....even with the dimmer turned up to it's highest setting (overdriven). On my Galaxy ballast it runs nice and crisp white with just enough of a hint of blue.

[trmiv]

I'm interested in getting a Radium 250w setup for my new tank. I'm trying to decide between the Lumatek or Galaxy electronic vs the Hamilton HQI magnetic. For those that have the Hamilton, can you comment on the sound? Is there a noticeable hum from the ballast? I had an Aqua Medic m80 ballast once and the wife made me dump it for an Ice Cap because the sound drove her nuts.

[tegee]

I have the Hamilton HQI and I have my apprehensions too regarding noise. The hum is soooo slight it is barely audible. My external overflows and pumps drown out any noise that it my give off. By far I great investment and very happy with a magnetic ballast Radium combo. I am not a big fan of electronic ballast for Radium bulbs imho, but that is just one man's opinion.

HTH

[SkyPapa]

Mine do hum, but I have so much other stuff running, chiller, water pumps, MP-20 and 40s, I don't notice it.

FWIW, I have recently tried both the galaxy and the icecap with radiums next to hamiltons.
There is no comparison imo, the electronics have the windex color and the hamiltons have a pleasing color, that in my eyes, I can't get with other K bulbs or T5s

[trmiv]

I'm going to give the Hamilton HQI a shot. With the last HQI magnetic my wife claimed even though the other equipment was making noise, the frequency of the hum still gave her headaches. Who knows. I'm going to try to sneak this one by and see if she notices. :D

[JRaquatics]

FWIW I'm currently running the Lumatek adjustable ballast which when on the HQI setting lights the radium 250w really nice crisp blue. The Lumatek and the Galaxy adjustable ballast should run the same and would expect identical results.

[kware]

10001110101
cool song

[SkyPapa]

[QUOTE=JRaquatics;17833625 lights the radium 250w really nice crisp blue. [/QUOTE]

That's just it. On m80s the radiums don't look blue to me when compared side by side.
It's mostly white to my eyes.

[john90009]

Idk what this windex looking thing is but i was afraid of it happening to me. I have gallaxy 250's and just got my radiums and would never turn back. Its a bright white ( without yellows lets put it that way) and a hint of blue to sparkle with the corals.) There has to be some blue in it even ran to specs or else they wouldnt have called it a 20k bulb. Am i right or wrong?

[trmiv]

Idk what this windex looking thing is but i was afraid of it happening to me. I have gallaxy 250's and just got my radiums and would never turn back. Its a bright white ( without yellows lets put it that way) and a hint of blue to sparkle with the corals.) There has to be some blue in it even ran to specs or else they wouldnt have called it a 20k bulb. Am i right or wrong?

Are your galaxy's the select-a-watt or the regular non-selectable ones?

[john90009]

regular non selects. no options just plain old 250 w ones.

[Reef Happy]

Have a quick question.. I am running radiums. Would there be any advantage switching from icecap 250w electronic ballast to the new galaxy select or bluewave m80? As far as color and brightness. Would running the new galaxy or bluewave give me more growth and a crisper white without the more blue I experience with the icecaps? I have heard the icecaps are not as good a combo with the radiums.

[James77]

Have a quick question.. I am running radiums. Would there be any advantage switching from icecap 250w electronic ballast to the new galaxy select or bluewave m80? As far as color and brightness. Would running the new galaxy or bluewave give me more growth and a crisper white without the more blue I experience with the icecaps? I have heard the icecaps are not as good a combo with the radiums.

The m80 ballast runs the Radium as it should be run. It will be quite a bit brighter and more white than on an icecap ballast. PAR is approx 30% more on the M80 ballast going by Sanjays tests. Running on the HQI setting of the selectable ballasts will be roughly between the M80 and Icecap.

[RokleM]

Have a quick question.. I am running radiums. Would there be any advantage switching from icecap 250w electronic ballast to the new galaxy select or bluewave m80? As far as color and brightness. Would running the new galaxy or bluewave give me more growth and a crisper white without the more blue I experience with the icecaps? I have heard the icecaps are not as good a combo with the radiums.

I've been very happy with the Lumatek/Galaxy adjustable. Granted color is a very personal opinion (what is yellow to some might be white or hint of blue to others)... to me the Radium on HQI setting is a very nice crisp white with some actinic punch thrown in. Running 10-11 months, I swapped mine out with little to no change in visible color and less than 10% PAR. I'll go the full 12 months this time.

[Reef Happy]

http://www.aquacave.com/250w-reeflex-cube-hqi-br-ballast-by-aqua-medic-2262.html
I was wanting to hear some additional talk about this cube M80 ballast combo with the radium 250w. I have heard they can be loud with a hum but the 7" size and wieght is nice and the fact they can be repaired. I have had 2 of the hamilton 150w DE and they were very loud. Also sounds line the Galaxy is a good combo.

[tegee]

I have (3) Hamilton M80 HQI ballasts and they are dead silent (or near silent). Don't see why the cube M80's are any different. Very happy with the M80 and Radium combination.

HTH

[Reef Happy]

Well, I decided to go with the galaxy select a watt 250w for my radiums. And having been running them over a month now and must say I love this combo.

I do have a question I would like to pose, don't think I have seen this discussion. I have a frag tank 13" deep. I was considering putting MH on this tank and wanting to use radiums. Am wondering using the select a watt ballast that has the 250-150w when running the radium bulb if needed at the 150w or 175w will under driving the ballast/bulb shorten the life of bulb? I understand using the HQI setting will overdrive and would shorten life of bulb. I know at 150w radiums only come in the DE bulbs. And I just don't know if 150w will be all I need. Seems like the select a watt ballast would be a great deal if I could run at 250 or 175 without shortening bulb life at the lower wattage setting.

[RokleM]

That's actually not correct. 250w are HQI rated bulbs, so the 250/HQI setting on your ballast would be correct (not overdriving). Running them just at 250 will generate a slightly bluer color and underdrive them slightly.

That being said, the 250w radium is a powerful bulb and might cook things on a 13" frag tank. I wouldn't recommend running one at 150 or 175.

[Reef Happy]

That's actually not correct. 250w are HQI rated bulbs, so the 250/HQI setting on your ballast would be correct (not overdriving). Running them just at 250 will generate a slightly bluer color and underdrive them slightly.

That being said, the 250w radium is a powerful bulb and might cook things on a 13" frag tank. I wouldn't recommend running one at 150 or 175.

Yep, that was actually what I was thinking that the 250w might be too much and that was what I was trying to say, but I want to stay with the radiums. I know at the 150 or 175w radiums are only available in double ended. Then I would need to go to a 150w only ballast.

[Toddrtrex]

You could do (( and would think there would only be a minor difference )) a DE 150 Radium over the frag tank -- should note that I have never seen that bulb in person, only the 250 Radiums. Considering the depth of your frag tank, think that would be the best choice.

[LiamLiffey]

Can someone tell me if there will be a colour shift with german electricity net (230V). Is there a difference?
Also does someone know which ballast to use here in Germany?

Cheers
Axel

[Osteopth]

Electronic Ballast vs E-Ballast
The Lumatek ballast is an E-ballast, unlike other brands on the market, which are actually electronic ballasts. E-ballasts use a microprocessor similar to a component found in a personal computer. This microprocessor allows the E-ballast to run either halide or sodium lamps, to switch between 50 and 60 hertz, to make adjustments for the type of bulb it is running, and even to compensate for degraded lamps by increasing its output. Electronic ballasts have a constant output and cannot make adjustments or changes. They will light a MH lamp; but quickly cause it to degrade, thus shortening the lamp`s lifespan.

found this in a Lumatek description, thought it was interesting, anybody know if it is true?

[Osteopth]

Also, I have seen two versions of the Lumatek 250w/400w's. One is labled 250/275/400/Super Lumens. The other is labled 250/250SL/400/400SL. Are they the same?

[Osteopth]

Lastly, this is a description of the Lumatek 250/400 from a grower's site.


Click to view all Lumatek Ballasts


Operates in 4 Modes:

400 Watt SUPER LUMENS Mode:

Will run 400 Watt bulb using 400 Watts of electricity.
Compatible Bulbs that can be run on 400 Watt SUPER LUMENS Mode:

400 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
400 Watt Metal Halide (MH)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

400 Watt Mode:

Will run 400 Watt bulb using 400 Watts of electricity.
All bulbs running on 400 Watt Mode will use 400 Watts of electricity and put out 400 watts of light. (Example: 400 Watt bulb used in 400 Watt Mode, 400 Watts used, 400 Watt Light output)
Compatible Bulbs that can be run on 400 Watt Mode:

400 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
400 Watt Metal Halide (MH)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

250 Watt SUPER LUMENS Mode:

Will run 250 Watt bulb using 250 Watts of electricity.
Compatible Bulbs that can be run on 250 Watt SUPER LUMENS Mode:

400 Watt Metal Halide (MH)
400 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
250 Watt Metal Halide (MH)
250 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

250 Watt Mode:

Will run 400 or 250 Watt bulb using 250 Watts of electricity.
All bulbs running on 250 Watt Mode will use 250 Watts of electricity and put out 250 watts of light. (Example: 400 Watt bulb used in 250 Watt Mode, 250 Watts used, 250 Watt Light output)
Compatible Bulbs that can be run on 250 Watt Mode:

400 Watt Metal Halide (MH)
400 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
250 Watt Metal Halide (MH)
250 Watt High Pressure Sodium (HPS)

Does it seem right?

[eco37]

Found them on ebay $77. that is a steal!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Radium-250W-20K-Halide-Bulb-/170736205578?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c0abbf0a

[coralreefdoc]

Does anyone have any pics running a 400w HQI setting Lumatek/Radium combination ?

Also, could you speak on bulb life in regards to time/spectrum shift utilizing this combination.

Thanks in advance !

[sirreal63]

Keep in mind that the 400 watt Radium is not really a 400 watt bulb and is designed to be run at 360 watts, so with the severe overdriving of it at a 400 watt HQI setting, expect bulb life to be greatly reduced.

[spicytuna]

Here's the spec sheet for the radium 150 watt DE 20k. If anyone would like the actual PDF file, you can pm me your email and I will send it to you.

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj589/mmcmullen84/null-12.png
http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj589/mmcmullen84/null-13.png
http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj589/mmcmullen84/null-14.png

[spicytuna]

Today I will be installing a radium 150 DE in my solan disco ball pendant. I have been running Phoenix 14k for years in this fixture with no issues. I recently upgraded the ballast to a galaxy select a watt 150/175/250/HQI. The ballast upgrade has made a huge differance in the 6 month old Phoenix bulb I have been running. Increased growth has definitley been noticed with he new ballast. Hopefully this will be a good match for the radium.

I would like to note, a few pages back, another member ran the 150 radium on the galaxy ballast and only got 7 months of use before extreme color shift to yellow. I would like to point out, he mentioned he tried running the bulb at 175 watts before breaking the bulb in at the 150 setting, then eventually switching to 175 watt setting after 6 months.

I don't beleive running this bulb with a 175 watt electronic ballast will do it any good, as 175 watt bulbs have very differant specifications then 150 bulbs.

According to radium this bulb is made to be ran at 146 watts, but according to sanjays lighting guide, the PFO m81 ballast that everyone claims the bulb is made for, runs the bulb at 228 watts. There's way to much confusion surrounding this bulb. But I'm ready to give it a go.

[trueblackpercula]

Can anyone show me there reef tank with just A 400watt radium on an icecap ballast?
Thanks

[apt220]

I've been running two 250w radiums on Hamilton M80 ballasts. It is a nice crisp white and I'm happy with growth. But the color reminds me of a 14K phoenix.

I want it a little more blue. Does anyone think I will get a noticeable bluer color if I switch to a galaxy 250/400w select a watt ballast?

[sirreal63]

Add a couple blue+ T5's or VHO actintics.

[apt220]

I'm actually already running two 110W VHO super actinics on Icecap 660 ballasts, but the radiums overpower them.

[sirreal63]

It will be a little more blue, but I am not sure it will be blue enough, it sounds like you want Tidy Bowl blue. The blue+ may be better but you may need to run 4 of them. Are the VHO old?

[apt220]

The VHOs are about 9 months old, but the color has always been the same. Radiums are also 9 months old.

I do want it to be little more toward the windex look.

Maybe I'll try the T5s, but man the superactinic look at dawn/dusk is hard to give up. Thanks for chiming in.

[sirreal63]

I miss the VHO actintic's and am sorry I did not plan my canopy for them, nothing looks the same. I an running 445nm LEDs and they are close, but not quite the same.

[M4ST3R]

Hi,

i've used the 150W Radiums for over a year now. When i wanted to order a new pair of Radiums, i was told that the "old" ones that we're talking about here are EOL, and that they're producing "new" ones, that are sadly less powerful than the old ones.

Here are the specs of the old ones:

Anwendungsdaten
Halogen-Metalldampflampe
Artikel-Nr: 32412168
EAN Nr: 4008597121685
Leistungsaufnahme: 160W
Lichtstrom: 5000lm
Durchmesser: 23mm
Länge-Kontaktabstand: 132mm
Sockel: RX7s-24
Brennlage: p15
Netzspannung*: 230V
Lampennennstrom: 1,6A
Drosselnennstrom: 1,8A
Leistungsaufnahme mit VG: 180W
Kompensationskondensator für 50 Hz: 20μF
Beschl. Wiederzündung: 4kV
Sofortige Wiederzündung: -kV



And here the new one:

Artikelnummer 32418906
Bestellzeichen HRI-TS 150W/230/B/XLN/RX7S
EAN-Faltschachtel 4008597189067
Zolltarifnummer 85393290
Versandeinheit in Stk 20
Brutto-Gewicht Versandeinheit in kg 1.528
Länge Versandeinheit in m 0.3
Breite Versandeinheit in m 0.24
Höhe Versandeinheit in m 0.19
Stück pro Palette 2560
ETIM Klasse EC000037
ETIM Klasse Bezeichnung Halogen-Metalldampflampe ohne Reflektor
Elektrische Parameter
Lampen-Nennleistung 146 W
Bemessungswert Lampenleistung 146.0 W
Netzspannung (V) 230
Zündspannung (kVs) 4-5
Zündspannung min. (kVs) 4 kV
Zündspannung max. (kVs) 5 kV
Lampen-Nennstrom 1.6 A
Lampen-Nennstrom 1.6 A
Drossel-Nennstrom 1.8 A
Kompensationskondensator für 50 Hz, KVG 20 µF
Lichttechnische Parameter
Lichtstrom 3900 lm
Bemessungswert Lampenlichtstrom 3900 lm
Lebensdauer
Mittlere Lebensdauer 12000 h
Info Lebensdauer 12B50, 50Hz
Überlebensfaktor bei 12000h 0.50
Lichtstromerhalt bei 2000h 0.90
Spezifikation
Durchmesser max. 23 mm
Gesamtlänge max. 135 mm
Kontaktabstand 132 mm
Sockel RX7s-24
Sonstige
Produktbroschüre Messehighlights 2012
ILCOS-Bezeichnung MD-150/B-H-RX7s
LBS-Bezeichnung HIT-DE-bu150W RX7s



What you can see is that the output decreased from 160W to 146W aswell as the luminous output from 5000 lm to 3900lm, so the new one is kinda 20% less powerful.

A spectal analysis like the ones Sanjay did would be rly interesting

[ganjero]

Has anyone tried the new 150w Radium?

[sirreal63]

I don't think they have arrived in this country yet. I am a little dismayed by them, only 146 watts nominal, I am going to be over driving them pretty hard. I am thinking about going to a 250 or 400.

[ganjero]

I'll be in Europe next week, I am assuming the bulb should be the same if I get it there, correct?

[sirreal63]

I see no reason why not, but I have never transported bulbs from Europe before. AFAIK the important specs are the wattage and startup kv.
http://www.radium.de/en/products/metal-halide-lamp-quartz-burner-hri-ts-150w230bxlnrx7s

[Michigan Mike]

I'd contact Radium and ask what the "o8" on one bulb and the "x3" on the other bulb mean. Could be different manufacturing dates or batch of bulbs, etc. The construction certainly looks different. I didn't notice it before but that's got to have something to do with it.

The nipple should be facing upwards or at least as far up from sideways as you can.

[Michigan Mike]

I'll be in Europe next week, I am assuming the bulb should be the same if I get it there, correct?

Bulb, yes...voltage/amps are a different story, but you knew that I'm sure.

[Michigan Mike]

Thanks to you Jack, I posted on a old thread.
Haha. Hope the Spurs win. Where's Robinson? Is he still playing?
Ha
:wave:

[tank master]

I currently have the 400w reef brite digitally controlled ballast.
Would these ballasts be able to run the 400w radiums to spec?
http://premiumaquatics.com/products/reef-brite-digitally-controlled-mh-ballast-400w.html
Thanks

[Bpb]

Interesting to see this thread turn up. I've got some 6 month old radiums sitting aside that I plan to install when my 10k bulbs are done with, but with my pendants (lumenmax 2 mogul), the sockets are such that if my bulbs are screwed in all the way, the nipple is facing sideways, cannot tighten it down further to get it vertical. Loosening them to bring the nipple back around vertical makes them lose hold on the socket. Any remedy for this? Considered just buying a new batch when the time comes and see if they screw in corrextly

[d2mini]

Interesting to see this thread turn up. I've got some 6 month old radiums sitting aside that I plan to install when my 10k bulbs are done with, but with my pendants (lumenmax 2 mogul), the sockets are such that if my bulbs are screwed in all the way, the nipple is facing sideways, cannot tighten it down further to get it vertical. Loosening them to bring the nipple back around vertical makes them lose hold on the socket. Any remedy for this? Considered just buying a new batch when the time comes and see if they screw in corrextly

There should be a little tab down inside the socket.
UNPLUG YOUR POWER ;) and then pull up on that little tab to bend it up a little bit. Now you should be able to screw in your bulb and stop when it's facing vertical.

And FWIW, i can't see any visual difference no matter which way the nipple is facing. Whether it's doing something I can't see, i have no idea.

[LesMartin]

Nipple position test: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/3/review