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carnophage
03/01/2010, 05:09 PM
I have a 210g tank Fish are 2 bluejaw triggers, stars & stripes puffer, blue tang, emperor angle, diamond goby, red coris wrasse (all about 4-5 in), and 3 damsels, snails, and 2 shrimp. There are spots on the bluetang, which i would usually overlook, then i inspected the rest... Spots on the angel, puffer, and one trigger. i am trying to find equipment to QT all the fish, i hope a 55g will work, with a whisper filter, and some pvc hiding places? They are eating and swimming normally, just a ton of spots. I use garlic guard on the food, but don't have any other vitamins. i ordered some Cupramine from dr. fosters. has anyone used this product? Or are there any other suggestions? Hoping someone has the magic answer. Thanks!!

RBU1
03/01/2010, 08:17 PM
There is no majic answer. Just make sure the tank you move them in has a well established filter so you don't get an ammonia spike...

If the fish are still eating take it slow adding the cupramine.

carnophage
03/01/2010, 08:28 PM
i am not considering dosing the display tank, just removing the inverts. Good idea??

RBU1
03/01/2010, 08:59 PM
Do not understand what you are saying....Hopefully you are removing the fish from the display and are treating them in a seperate tank. Your main tank will ahve to stay fallow for 12 weeks.

carnophage
03/01/2010, 09:15 PM
Sorry, i was thinking of just treating the display, i assume not a good idea? I am just worried about stressing the fish, that a 55g may not be large enough?

RBU1
03/02/2010, 08:14 AM
You can treat the display but I would be afraid of the life dieing in the rock. Call Seachem ask for Amanda and see what she thinks. Cupramine is one of the easier coppers to remove.

Stuart60611
03/02/2010, 12:02 PM
I posted this in your other thread in the aggressive forum.

Dealing with ich when you have a lot of large fish in a large system is difficult. Obviously, traditional treatment of removing all fish from the display for 8-10 weeks and treating all fish in quarantine with either copper or hypo is the best approach. However, the traditional approach is not always practical or feasible when you have very large fish and not ample quarantine facilities. Below is a link to a recent thread addressing treating the display tank under these circumstances and the risks and difficulties in doing so. I thought it could provide some helpful information as it relates to your circumstances.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1791555