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View Full Version : Rearing Black Ocellaris Clownfish


WaffleWalffle22
05/08/2010, 07:39 PM
My pair spawned a few days ago for the first time. They eggs are fertilized and the male has been taking care of them. :hmm5:

Here's the video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkM36m7G8os

http://i41.*******.com/2rrt44j.jpg

http://i44.*******.com/141laf4.jpg

http://i42.*******.com/1rw8dk.jpg

http://i44.*******.com/653bcm.jpg

I was told on my local reef club to let them get a routine going for a few months before I start collecting and rearing the fry so that I don't disturb the parents, so I'm going to wait until late July. I've read Joyce Wilkerson's book and I know the basics of rearing the fry.

I'm planning on setting up 2 rearing tanks so if one crashes I have the other half. I'll buy two 5 gallon tanks and I'll heat them with this:http://www.petsolutions.com/Mini-Aquarium-Heater+I41400319+C1021.aspx

I'll also get this: http://www.petsolutions.com/Aquarium-Temp-Alert+I33101208+C1021.aspx

My first questions: What filtration do you use for them during larval stage? What filtration do you use once they have gone through metamorphosis? Are 5g tanks OK for larva and metamorphosis?
Once they have gone through metamorphosis I'll move them all to a 10g with a small, in-tank filter.

clowns101
05/08/2010, 07:44 PM
I dont use filtration while they are in larval stage.I keep a air stone with a pump set on low to keep water moving.Once they have gone past META I then place a Sponge filter in the tank with the air pump set on moderate.I use 10 gallon tanks filled half full.More surface area for Co2 exchange.But 5 should be fine.But always keep in Mind bigger is always better!

dirtStar
05/08/2010, 07:53 PM
First congrats!

That heater will not do the justice.
I use a 50watt in a half filled 10gal tank. 50w will give you elbow room to keep the temps up if it gets cold. Also, you can use a 50w if you decide to upgrade or then use it in the 10gal rearing.

The temp is a cool idea if someone is always at home to hear it, otherwise useless....
Also if a heater goes out, you will need one to replace almost instanly.

For the first 2-3 weeks, you only use an airstone, no filtration.
After meta you can go to a sponge filter that uses an air lift system. (pretty much $5 or so.) I got mine in today from ebay (china) I paid a whopping $3 with shipping, relatively fast shipping.

5 gals are ok, but a 10gal is more recommended by lots and myself included.
Many options include, upgrading, using for QT in future, sump, and a partial growout until a main growout when larger.
Plus 10 gal is about the same cost of a 5gal.
When using a 10gal for larvae, you only need to fill halfway...I have about 4 gals in mine atm.

WaffleWalffle22
05/08/2010, 09:30 PM
OK. I was thinking 5g so that when I feed rotifers they will be more concentrated. I'll do a 10g tank. I already have two 50w heaters and a 10g tank. I just need to buy another 10g tank and some new air stones. I've been worrying about this for a long time (over a year since I had a feeling they would spawn), but if the larvae swim too close to a heater won't it fry them?

WaffleWalffle22
05/08/2010, 09:39 PM
What air pump models do you guys use? I'm looking for one with an adjustable amount of air.

crooks
05/09/2010, 01:10 AM
Put your airstone close to the heater to keep the water flowing away from it. Buy a large air pump then get metal gangway valves so you can run multiple things off it like a couple of rot cultures, brine shrimp, and your fry tanks.

dirtStar
05/09/2010, 09:47 AM
I go this dual output (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Culture-20-60-Gallon-Double-Outlet-Aquarium-Air-Pump-1-ct/10532634) air pump at walmart.

It was cheaper than my lfs....Thatfishplace
But the rest of my stuff comes from there

Gang valve (http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/4740/product.web)

You want to get a gang valve- the bigger the better, use one valve to bleed off all extra air...thus putting less wear and tear on your pump.
The gang valves will control all air points and you can fine tune them to the extreme.
I personally have a 4 way and a 2 way (but will prob be getting more in the future)

This contols a copepod culture (for my dragonets and butterfly)
2-3 rotifer cultures
1-2 bbs hatcheries
and the larvae tanks.

clowns101
05/09/2010, 12:51 PM
OK. I was thinking 5g so that when I feed rotifers they will be more concentrated. I'll do a 10g tank. I already have two 50w heaters and a 10g tank. I just need to buy another 10g tank and some new air stones. I've been worrying about this for a long time (over a year since I had a feeling they would spawn), but if the larvae swim too close to a heater won't it fry them?

No the fry will not get fried if they swim close to the heater.I raised some damsels which are harder than clownfish and they swim to the heater all the time and dont get hurt.The clownfish fry do the same thing and are fine.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 03:13 PM
I just did a lot of rereading on Joyce Wilkerson's book about rearing. Here's my plan...

Larvae Tank

10 Gallon glass aquarium
One 50w heater (right side of tank) 80F (electrical tape over indication light)
Two Air Stones (one under heater and one on left side of tank)
Two air pumps
Ammonia Alert Badge
Thermometer
Black Construction Paper (around sides)
Styrofoam (under tank)
Egg Crate (over tank for light to rest on)
Light (on top of Egg Crate) Can you suggest a lighting fixture with bulbs?

Juvenile Tank

20 Gallon Glass Aquarium With Light And Hood (Have it)
100w Heater (middle of tank with Air Stone under it)
Sponge Filter Can you suggest a good sponge filter?
Thermometer
Ammonia Alert Badge
Two air pumps

Food Culture

Two 5g buckets (each with 5 million rotifers)
Two Air Stones (one in each bucket)
Green Water (IDK what that is, but I'll research it)

I'm not much of an expert on culturing food for the larvae so make any suggestions you want. What do I use to culture BBS for them when they are Juveniles? Could you tell me the setup or give me a link to an easy setup? Feel free to make changes to my ideas. Also, at what age do they go through metamorphosis?
Thanks! :D

clowns101
05/09/2010, 04:07 PM
Question #1)I eould just get a plane indecent light for the fry tank.They dont need light really.

Question #2)All sponge filter work the same IMO.SO its really up to you on which one to get.They al work on the same plan.Air gets pumped into a tube and the air rises bringing water up with it.Just like a air luft pump.

Question #3)Culturing BBS is very easy.Get a 2 liter soda bottle.Fill it with salt water.Drill hole in the cap.Put air line though the cap.Then place a air stone on the air line.Add BBS eggs.Turn on air pump.Adjust air flow.They will hatch within 24 to 36 hours.

Qustion #4)They should go through META at about 11-13 days depending on the sp. of fish.

For other good information on breeding fish try MOFIB.Im a member there too!Also give Reed's Mariculture a call.They will help a bit.

One thing I want to ask you is,Why do you feel fit to place the black papre around the tnak?I know Clownfishes says to do it but I have done it and seen no benefit from it.I got the same results with out it.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 05:47 PM
One thing I want to ask you is,Why do you feel fit to place the black papre around the tnak?I know Clownfishes says to do it but I have done it and seen no benefit from it.I got the same results with out it.

It says that in the ocean the only light source is from over-head lighting, and if there is another light source then they might all clump there and might not spread out and get the rotifers they need. I want to do it just in case, and I have all the materials to do it, so it won't hurt. I realized I have everything except the air stones, the ammonia badge, and the rotifers. My mom is begging me to raise this batch, and I'm considering raising this batch. When the other breeder from my local reef club said I should wait for a bit, I think they thought I was going to remove the rock. I don't see any reason the parents would be upset by me capturing the larvae from the tank, so I might raise this batch. I checked the eggs today, and they have just turned brown. I think I may have 3 days more or less until they turn silver and are ready to hatch. :D

dirtStar
05/09/2010, 06:31 PM
This here (http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/207092/product.web) is perfect to grow bbs and when they are hatched, turn off the air for ten minutes and then you take of the airline from the gang valve side, lower the airline into a cup for just a second to get about three table spoons of pure bbs.

The clowns dont neccessary need light to survive, but it is better to have a bit overhead for them to find food.
Some actually leave the light on for 24hr/day for the first few days to week.
Makes them eat more and grow faster.
Too much light and they will spaze out and bash up against the sides of the tank, so watch closely when adding light.

Meta can happen anywhere from day 6 on, depending on species.
It is very stressful for the fish and this is where you will lose some, esp if they arent healthy.
*I have read that for each degree under 81F, adds a day (prolongs) until meta..sounds true to me.

I dont cover the sides of my tank, but depends on the overhead light, and the side lighting.

How many times did the clownfish spawn?
If it is their first, then you dont have the clock set yet.
They might not lay for another week after the hatch or month.
This first batch, you should let go...that will give you approx 2 weeks to get the
rots in and the cuture going, and also getting all the set up complete (heater set, etc.)


You can get rots from many sources, but reed mariculture is pretty uch the favorite among starters.

They even have a rotifer starter kit here (http://www.reed-store.com/shop.cfm/Rotifer-Products/Rotifers-Live-and-Concentrate/RSK-BASIC/)
$30 isnt bad at all, plus shipping.
Comes 2nd day I think so, it will be at your house quickly.

Really think about letting this batch go, as I let my first go.
This way the parents will lay another if they want.
You dont want 400 babies dying because you ran out of rotifers on the second day.

Give the time to read more and ask more questions.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 07:58 PM
My mom had been wanting me to raise this batch. I think there are only about 50 eggs left after the male tossed the bad ones. Since there are 50 or so, shouldn't I be able to rear them with the starter kit and let the population grow once they have gone through meta? I'm guessing they'll hatch in 3 or 4 days. I went and got all the equipment to set up the tank and once it is set up (without water) I can take a picture and let you guys make suggestions. I'll let my mom go ahead and order the rotifers for me so that I can either raise this batch or grow the population. Since the parents are taking care of the eggs, I assume they are going to lay more once these hatch.

clowns101
05/09/2010, 08:00 PM
It says that in the ocean the only light source is from over-head lighting, and if there is another light source then they might all clump there and might not spread out and get the rotifers they need. I want to do it just in case, and I have all the materials to do it, so it won't hurt. I realized I have everything except the air stones, the ammonia badge, and the rotifers. My mom is begging me to raise this batch, and I'm considering raising this batch. When the other breeder from my local reef club said I should wait for a bit, I think they thought I was going to remove the rock. I don't see any reason the parents would be upset by me capturing the larvae from the tank, so I might raise this batch. I checked the eggs today, and they have just turned brown. I think I may have 3 days more or less until they turn silver and are ready to hatch. :D

I dont have any side light.My fry tanks are in a pitch black room with the light on that I placed on the top of the tank.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 08:13 PM
My room has light coming in from everywhere, so I'll do the black sides just to be safe.

dirtStar
05/09/2010, 08:43 PM
Waf,

If you can get on the order by tomorrow morning and confirm they can ship it tomorrow, then it is quite possible. But dont be upset if they dont make it.
It will set the stage for going thru all the steps.

my first batch I scooped up about 300 or so.
the next morning I had about 13 -15 that survived (by my own unXP)
DONT have anything else in the tank except for the heater, airstone temp probe and ammonia badge.

Put half of the rotifers in the tank and fill halfway with Display tank water.
Use the other half of rotifers to start 1-2 cultures with 3 gallons in each 5 gal bucket.

Tint the rots in the larvae tank with roti diet and hopefully they can co-culture with
the larvae.
If you receive them by wed, you should have a day or two to have the tank stable.

Post any questions, and we will be here to help.

clowns101
05/09/2010, 08:52 PM
Dont be upset if you dont get anything the first trys.The best thing to do is just wait and let nature takes its cource!The first batches are always the hardest,however rkelman raised his first batch with like 21-23 surviors.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 09:01 PM
I know basically how to do everything, but I may still have my questions. :rollface:

I'll set up the tank (without water) and take a picture and you can tell me what I should or shouldn't change.

dirtStar
05/09/2010, 09:13 PM
Oh, you are also gonna need a sieve for the rotifers.
A 53 micron one.

Ebay you can get the and also seahorsesource.com (just found this out last night)
SeaHS also has decapsulated BS, so I would opt for that place.
It is also a fav here.
I will be ordering decap BS prob soon, as you can hatch them in the larvae tank (I am pretty sure)


If you have good lighting in the room, black the sides, and you may not even need a light on the tank. Just make sure you watch and see the larvae hunting and eating.
If not, you may need a light...based on others, you prob should not.

My 11 left are 7 days now, and two have their first stripes, wow, that is a nice sight to see.
You will see the very faintest sight of one coming, and then 8 hours later the head stripe is in fully.
I also have a few more on the bottom, and they will prob have the head stripe by tomorrow morn.

WaffleWalffle22
05/09/2010, 10:37 PM
What is a sieve? :sad2:

dirtStar
05/09/2010, 10:42 PM
It is basically a strainer to get only rotifers and no roti water

Here is the link to SHsource (http://www.seahorsesource.com/cgi-bin/shop/search.cgi?&category=Foods-Accessories)

If you buy anything from here, then you can get the 53 sieve.
If not, ebay has them, same price plus shipping

WaffleWalffle22
05/10/2010, 06:33 PM
Here's the pictures of the rearing tank.

http://i41.*******.com/2ajz9k9.jpg

http://i44.*******.com/3343v53.jpg

http://i40.*******.com/6ehu6o.jpg

http://i41.*******.com/2i6phk6.jpg

I still need to add the ammonia badge. Does it look OK?

dirtStar
05/10/2010, 06:48 PM
It looks like it just needs water from the spawn tank, lol!

I have mine set up the same way minus the black sides and the heater is on the side.
But the heater on the bottom looks pretty cool.
I think it will do well, but you may need more airflow like that then with the airstone directly under it when on the side. hmm.

WaffleWalffle22
05/10/2010, 06:57 PM
Maybe I can put the heater on the side with the Air Stone under it.

clowns101
05/10/2010, 07:11 PM
I wouldnt add much more flow to your tank.To much IME.The rotifers will stay in suspension with the water so very little flow is needed exept to keep the water areated,which one air stone is enough.

dirtStar
05/10/2010, 07:11 PM
I just notice that the larvae tend to hang out on the bottom alot.
Maybe when going thru meta.

I think it should be fine, maybe experiment.

WaffleWalffle22
05/11/2010, 04:04 PM
I had my mom to order me a rotifer starter kit on Sunday. I ordered the 2-day shipping, and it got here overnight! Turns out they were just miles from me. :lmao:
Right now I'm acclimating the rotifers to their new bucket. I also got my rearing tank set up (without water). There are about 50-75 eggs now. They are a brow-orange color (more brown than orange) and they have silver tips, but they aren't completely silver so I think they'll hatch on Thursday.

dirtStar
05/11/2010, 10:23 PM
I am guessing u are in Cali? lol

Sounds like you got a head start, nice.

For the eggs, they dont fuly turn silver, just the eyes.
If you are just seeing silver eyes tonight, it may be two more days.
Although, be prepared.

Put a bit of rots ( maybe 1/4 or even less in the larvae tank itself)
And start the batch there. If you add the rotifer diet to it, you can co-culture them together.

Just make sure not to add the rot water to the tank.
if it was overnight, it may be safe, but it would be your call..thinking you dont have a sieve yet, use a coffee filter to strain about a cup of it.then place the half of the rest in one five gal bucket with 1.025 New SW and another half in another 5 gal to play it safe.
It is very easy to crach the batch by under or over feeding.
I have three batches going and I think I overfed the one...not smelling or culturing too good.

I make so there is about 2-3 gallons of water total in the 5ga rot buckets


Get the temp situated with some water from the display.
Fill it about 3 gallons, because you may get about 1-2gal when fishing in a few nights, lol.

WaffleWalffle22
05/12/2010, 08:23 PM
I'm expecting them to hatch around Friday. I'm going to add water to the rearing tank when they are ready to hatch so that the water is the same. I'm planning on feeding them rotifers 5 times each day. While I'm at school my mom has agreed to feed them and she is already helping me feed the rotifers. And yes, I live in CA, however I'd rather live in Florida. :rolleyes:

WaffleWalffle22
05/12/2010, 08:35 PM
Also, I do have one question.
I have the medium output blue LED moonlights that automatically come on when the other lights go out. I read that the room must be completely dark for the eggs to hatch. Do I need to turn off the LED when the eggs are ready? :mixed:

clowns101
05/12/2010, 09:04 PM
Also, I do have one question.
I have the medium output blue LED moonlights that automatically come on when the other lights go out. I read that the room must be completely dark for the eggs to hatch. Do I need to turn off the LED when the eggs are ready? :mixed:

No I have a pair of Ocellaris that spawn in a Bio-Cube.Bio-Cubes have LED's and my fish lay their eggs right under the LED's.The fish hatch after an hour or so after the main lighting goes off.

P.S. be happy you live in CA.Here in MO we have no good stores at all.I only know of one store that has "quality" stock and I have to drive a 200 mile round trip to get it.

WaffleWalffle22
05/13/2010, 03:39 PM
Egg Update: Light tan with big eyes. They're getting there! :spin1:

WaffleWalffle22
05/13/2010, 04:53 PM
Every day my rotifer's water seems to be getting lighter until I feed them. Are they rapidly eating the food? Does this mean they're healthy? :D

WaffleWalffle22
05/15/2010, 02:18 PM
The eggs are silver with a light tan yolk sac. Probably going to hatch tonight! :)

dirtStar
05/15/2010, 05:29 PM
How many days have they had silver eyes?
Usually about the 3rd or 4th day of silver eyes.
When you see every egg with silver eyes.

Remember at lights out, turn off all pumps and flow.
I usually do it 20 minutes after lights out. But that is pushing it.If you
shine lights in all the time, it might delay them
I put a blanket over my whole tank and check them with a tiny keychain type single led flashlight.
Once you see a few swimming, you will be in lala land. It is amazing.

If the rot water is fading, that is a good sign.
Just be sure for it not to go clear, if so, it will crash.
THey cant go with out food for about 4 hours.
They will die off and that will be the end of it.
They will actually go into a different stage and wait until the living conditions are met.



Keep us updated.

WaffleWalffle22
05/15/2010, 11:35 PM
20% hatched because once I got in the room and collected the 20% it disturbed the parents so I'll have to do the same tomorrow. :(
At least I know what to do.
I added a bit of rotifers so that they can start to practice hunting. :spin3:

dirtStar
05/16/2010, 12:01 AM
huh?

The parents have nothing to do with the hatch.
If you put on pumps, they will be gone tomorrow.

congrats on getting 20%!

You added rotifers to your larvae tank, right?

WaffleWalffle22
05/16/2010, 08:55 AM
I disturbed the parents by having a bowl and a flashlight in the tank. I have a 34g tank so it is small. They are still taking care of the rest of the eggs. I'm going to go get the shrimp and the banggai out. Surprisingly, I never saw the wrasse last night... maybe it died! :D
I added a cup of rotifers last night and a cup this morning! ;)

Shane Hoffman
05/16/2010, 09:07 AM
I disturbed the parents by having a bowl and a flashlight in the tank. I have a 34g tank so it is small. They are still taking care of the rest of the eggs. I'm going to go get the shrimp and the banggai out. Surprisingly, I never saw the wrasse last night... maybe it died! :D
I added a cup of rotifers last night and a cup this morning! ;)


Congrats.....Mine hatched last night...I got somewhere between 300 and 500 fry....


Did you strain the cup of rotifers through a cofee filter????

dirtStar
05/16/2010, 09:10 AM
COngrats to both!

YEah, strain them with the sieve or the coffee filter.

Make sure you see a good density of the rots in the tank.
They will eat them fast.

From the 12 babies in myy first batch was fine, but when having
over 100 in my second batch, they are pigs!

They will devour a whole tank full in hours.

WaffleWalffle22
05/16/2010, 11:22 AM
I don't have a sieve or a coffee filter. Should I go get one? I'm trying to hatch the rest of them right now. I have the pumps off and the room is pitch black. Hopefully I can get a few. I just take a cup and get rotifers (maybe a few thousand) and I gently mix it into the fry tank. :hmm2:

dirtStar
05/16/2010, 11:38 AM
You should.

The rotifer batch water is probably toxic in a few days.
Since your batch is new, it may be ok for the first few days,
But you should use a coffee filter for now, and if
you have or will decide to keep raising larvae, you will need the sieve.

Like i mentioned before, ebay or seahorsesource has them. 53microns or 53um

WaffleWalffle22
05/16/2010, 11:43 AM
What exactly does the sieve do? Strain the water from the rotifers? Are you saying the rotifer water will become toxic?

crooks
05/16/2010, 11:52 AM
Yes you dont want your rotifer water in your larval tank so use a coffee filter or sieve to strain the rotifers.

dirtStar
05/16/2010, 12:02 PM
A rotifer culture tank (or bucket) is like a 10 gallon tank with 10000 larvae in it.
It is an ammonia producing toxic haven.

Now, in your case it should be fine with a cup in here and there, but after the rot batch is more than a few days, the ammoniz levels are getting high.

Straining them thru a coffee filter or sieve ensures you only get rots and no ammonia water.

WaffleWalffle22
05/16/2010, 12:03 PM
OK I'll go get one.

dirtStar
05/16/2010, 12:16 PM
A coffee filter will hold you over for now.
$1 at the dollar store.

If you continue to raise, then you can opt for a sieve, since they are about $13-18

I have not tried a coffee filter, but I heard they are a pita.

If you get a sieve, get a 4'' wide by 4-8'' tall. that is what I have, excellent.
When in a jiffy, you can place the sieve in an empty 5 gal bucket and pour a
gallon or two thru it from the 5gal rot bucket. Then just lift the sieve up and you're set.

I normally use a plastic 4 cup measuring cup to pour in a few of them thru the sieve, while doing it
over top of the rot bucket, but maybe you will find your own way.

Sparty00
05/17/2010, 09:30 AM
Are you recommending just an ordinary paper coffee filter, or one of those reusable plastic filters with the mesh? If recommending the later, do you have any recommendations? I did not think they were fine enough to catch the rots.

Thanks !