Buying a new drill (think I have narrowed it down)

[headshrink]

Old Drill (skip to next paragraph for actual question):
Well, my old drill is about dead. It was a Rigid 12V. It was my first real cordless tool (purchased in 2005), so I didn't really know what to expect... but was pleased to find these things do provide more torque than my old DeWalt corded drill (the basic $50 model, which was $100 when I bought it). I really liked the size, weight, and ergonomics of the Ridged, but if I had to do it again... I would NOT by the Rigid. The battery life was TERRIBLE. In fact, about 6mo. after I got it, I saw a review of drills in my Wood magazine... and the Rigid was one of the LAST in the review for battery life (I think Panasonic was first, oddly enough). Anyways, I'm gathering my birthday money to go buy a new drill since one of my Rigid batteries will no longer charge, and the other is limping.

Potential new drill:
I have been casually looking at the drills at HD over the years every time I go in. I currently have my eye on the Makita 18V LXT 1/2 In. Hammer Driver Drill Kit (Model # BHP454 ). Although the 12V served me well for light to medium duty jobs, I'm thinking I really do need to step it up a bit. I also like the addition of the Hammer Driver, which I know isn't the same as a dedicated hammer drill, but from what I understand it can help to prevent splitting when driving screws in some applications???. I also like the removable handle (a plus, but not a requirement), which would come in handy since the 18Vs are heavier. The little LED "headlights" are no big deal to me, but a construction guy that was next to me said he loves them for working inside walls.... makes since, I hadn't thought of that. He is a roofer by trade, and said this is the only drill he hasn't destroyed on the job. So, I am looking for thoughts and feedback.... This is about $280, which is a LOT of $$ right now, but I do have it as birthday cash, so it is possible right now, but I have been putting it off because I never have that much money lying around (especially that much extra when doing a project). There is also a non hammer driver version, but it costs about the same.

A good buy?

[BeanAnimal]

The Bosch Li-Ion stuff is pretty good. I would not purchase Makita based on personal experience. I used to love the stuff when 9.6V was the ONLY option.

[ebonline]

the bosch li-ion stuff is pretty good. I would not purchase makita based on personal experience. I used to love the stuff when 9.6v was the only option.


+1...

[polyp02]

First of all what are trying to do? If drilling through glass then I would not recommend do to its hammer action becasue if you push on the drill while drilling you will activate the hammer action and it will break your glass. The hammer action will pull and push as it drills very heavy duty stuff. I actually bought a Milwakee kit that included the drill with a hammer action driver for $240 on sale at Orchards Supply and so far I'm satisfied with it.

[headshrink]

First of all what are trying to do? If drilling through glass then I would not recommend do to its hammer action becasue if you push on the drill while drilling you will activate the hammer action and it will break your glass. The hammer action will pull and push as it drills very heavy duty stuff. I actually bought a Milwakee kit that included the drill with a hammer action driver for $240 on sale at Orchards Supply and so far I'm satisfied with it.

Good point about the glass.... I should have specified. It isn't project specific; it is just supposed to be my "everything drill."

[sonnus]

I know you're not interested in the Ridgid but I think you should look at the Ridgid 18v li-ion drill (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhc/R-202053617/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053). It has a lifetime service agreement (included, no extra cost) and a HD rep told me it includes the battery! The drill also felt very balanced, compact and very sturdy.

Another very cool drill is the Milwaukee 12v compact drill (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Drills-Cordless/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhcZapue/R-202042885/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053). These things are awesome. There are a lot of them out from Bosch, Ridgid, ect. They all look the same to me and I'm sure they are all similar in performance. I've had this thing for a cople of years and is packs a strong punch. It'll drive 3"-#12 deck screws all day long. I've even used it to drill 3/8" holes through mild steel plate (that was pushing it though). I would say that these things are stronger than 12v full-sized tools from 10 years ago!

I personally use Milwaukee’s 28v li-ion cordless tools. These things are incredibly strong and the battery is basically the same size as the 18v li-ion. I also have a Makita LXT that I'm not very impressed with.

And definitely stay away from any hammer drill, imo they are too complicated. These drills never last over a year for me and I never even use the hammer setting.

[headshrink]

I also have a Makita LXT that I'm not very impressed with.

What is your experience with it?

[sonnus]

What is your experience with it?
Honestly, it just seemed too weak with a short battery life. Mine is probably over 4 years old now (?) and it looks brand new because I never use it unless I have to. It was when they first came out so I wouldn't be surprised if they have improved them.

I have always purchased Makita cordless in the past. I still have my 9.6v cordless from 20 years ago and it still works fine. My Makita 12v ni-cad and 18v mh drills are also 10-15 years old and are still used daily. Battery life is pretty poor now but it's still adequate. I'm very hard on tools btw.

Did you get a chance to check out that first link I posted? That "lifetime" service agreement sounds just too good to pass up.

[sonnus]

btw, I've been in construction on and off for almost 20 years now and both my father and father-in-law are contractors. You always know which brands are the best by what everybody has. For cordless tools it was Makita (early 1990s) then Dewalt (late 1990s) then Milwaukee (2000s). Lately I've been seeing a lot more Ridgid tools out there, no doubt that warranty has a lot to do with it.

[headshrink]

I did look at the links, but couldn'd find the warentee info.

[jeepguy242]

the rigid DOES include the battery, ive traded mine out several times now, the batteries on these things stink, if you are using it around the shop, i suggest the bosh with a cord, i will never buy a cordless drill again due to the battery life, yes its convenient not having to drag a cord around, but how good is the convenience when you cant finish a project due to the batteries going dead all the time

[sonnus]

I did look at the links, but couldn'd find the warentee info.
Well if you fiind yourself back at Home Depot check it out. There is a small mention of it on the box but it is very vague. You'll need to talk to one of the HD employees to get the details. I alway head to the special orders or contractors desks at the front of the store. They seem to be the employees that know the most.

I also noticed that it's on sale right now...

[stugray]

I got a Makita BDF452 for Xmas, and it is the best cordless I have ever used.

No hammer drill though

Stu

[jmski333]

in my experience as a contractor bosche drills aren't very good. My dad bought two sets of the 36 volt ones and they are junk. Rigid and ryobi drills are ok if your on a budget and makita is 50/50.

I recently got a Dewalt XRP 18V hammer drill on sale from lowes for $170. Not it is usually $299 so dont expect to find as good as a deal as me but i must say compared to all the drills my co-workers use and all that i have used they all agree the XRP is by far the best with torque and battery life.

[BeanAnimal]

Yeah the DeWalt drills are pretty reliable (we own many of them) but the good ones are somewhat out of the OPs price range. It looks like he is looking for mid-size drills for general use, not 18V+ high capacity full size drills.

I also typed the wrong thing above. The Bosch drills apear to have gone downhill. I meant to reccomend the Hitachi Li-Ion mid size combo pack. Pretty decent drill and impact driver for $200. By no means do they match a big DeWalt XRP2 or the new DeWalt full size Li-Ion drills, but they are great for general use. We have not purchased them simply because the DeWalt Li-Ion batteries work with our older XRP drills so it makes no sense to switch brands.

[Miller_Time]

I would be very weary of the Rigid warranty. It is very vague and has MANY loop holes that allow them to break it. Also the warranty is actually for the lifetime of the tool, not your lifetime (so I've been told). Industry standard lifetime of a tool is 3 yrs. So in reality is around the same as most companies warranties.

I am partial to the Dewalts, they have never let me down and always are the front runners of their class. The dewalt will have all the power you need and reliablity to boot.

They have the big 18v XRP hammerdrill if you need the best of the best, at $299, or you could do their compact lithium 18v drill for $219 at Depot. I just got one of these and this thing is great! Small, lightweight, and powerful! Its become my drill of choice for sure!

I would take the Makita over the rigid, but I would say dewalt over all of them!

[NanoReefWanabe]

unless you drill a lot of concrete and set a ton of TapCON screws there is no sense owning a hammer drill...i would simply stick to a standard drill...i too am partial to the Dewalts, but also love my Milwaukee cordless as well...always found the Dewalts to very very touquey though

[TAB]

all cordless drills suck...just my $.02

[stugray]

"all cordless drills suck...just my $.02 "

Unless you always have both at your disposal....;)

Then cordless has it's place.
Cordless can never replace good old corded, but sure are handy when you need quick or "remote" ( in the attic ).

Stu

[super1man]

i like my Snap On Cordless 1/2 chuck and you only need one hand cant bet it. i also have a milwaukee 28v and milwaukee 12v, have had a few dewalt drills. but by far the best is my snap on cordless. has gone through alot and still keeps on ticking its about 5 years old batteries are starting to die but with them always on the charger i expect that. i work as a mechainc at a bindery and am always using my drill.

[BeanAnimal]

I rarely break out standard size corded drill. I rarely break out a drywall screw gun.

I use a bigassed right-angle drill very often for (of course drilling studs and joists with ship augers and holse-saws) as well as mixing mortar, thinset and other heavy mixes.

That said, I am not a bit shy about twisting a 3" holesaw or 1.5" ship auger on an 18V DeWalt XRP drill, or mixing a batch or two of thinset when needed. I beat the livin crap outa my DeWalts and don't have a complaint. Smoke (varnished brushes and rotor) rolls out of all of them from time to time. Nothing a bit of sandpaper can't fix if needed.

Come to think of it, I think the good ol skil variable speed drill went to goodwill last time I cleaned out the tool pile. They are good for repative drilling of metal and steel... something I don't do a lot of. I have a bigassed drill press that takes care of most of my fabrication drilling.

The same goes for the drywall gun.... for anything less than a 5-10 sheets, it is just not worth digging out :)

I have a bigassed corded SDS rotary hammer... The only replacement for THAT in battery is the HILTE or BOSCH 36V SDS style rotary hammer, but they cost a fortune and few folks needed cordless rotary hammers :)

[TAB]

"all cordless drills suck...just my $.02 "

Unless you always have both at your disposal....;)

Then cordless has it's place.
Cordless can never replace good old corded, but sure are handy when you need quick or "remote" ( in the attic ).

Stu




Very true, but if you can only have one, get the corded drill and buy some good heavy guage extention cords.

Makita makes a 18volt kit that comes with a drill and a impact driver(basicly a screw gun on roids) While I almost never touch the drill, the impact driver really does work. I'd still rather have a corded drill.

PS, I own/owned everything from no name cordless drills to festool(~$600 cordless drill)none of them are good for more then about 15 mins of real work.
When I go to grab a drill, its almost always the $60 dewalt, yeah its not the best, but I generally get 3 years out of them before I have to throw them away. As a GC I abuse the hell out of them.

[headshrink]

I heard a couple years back that DeWalt went to plastic gears right after they were bought by one of the cheap-arse brands (Black and Decker?). Is this true?

Also, are the cordless impact drivers used for the same kind of work as the pnumatic ones? I have a cheapo one that came with my compressor, and I think it still has more power than these cordless ones.

[TAB]

Dewalt has been owned by B and D for decades(infact they own most of the companys out there), for awhile they were using plastic clutchs on thier cordless drills I don't know if they still do.

The impact drivers work on the same idea, but are used for driving screws and the like. My makita is the only cordless tool I've ever been impressed with. They work almost as good as the old school impact screw drivers that you hit with a hammer for taking out screws.

[Miller_Time]

I heard a couple years back that DeWalt went to plastic gears right after they were bought by one of the cheap-arse brands (Black and Decker?). Is this true?

Also, are the cordless impact drivers used for the same kind of work as the pnumatic ones? I have a cheapo one that came with my compressor, and I think it still has more power than these cordless ones.


Dewalt has been owned by B&D since the 1960s. Every brand had a short run of plastic in the 90s, but Dewalt is now using all steel transmissions on the drills.

[AaronReeph]

I just bought a corded milwaukee 0234-6 drill. AWESOME drill, insane torque, incredible build quality. Would highly recommend it.

[jcraft]

Head on over to your local Harbor Freight and pick yourself up a 3/8" 18v for $15:thumbsup:

I've owned one for the last year and a half and I have yet to be dissapointed. I've drilled glass, built stands, and have done various home improvement projects- battery life has been great and the chuck actually seems tighter than my old corded Ryobi VSR.

If you have the money, go for the big guys... but for $15, why the hell not?!

[Vegas.]

Head on over to your local Harbor Freight and pick yourself up a 3/8" 18v for $15:thumbsup:

I've owned one for the last year and a half and I have yet to be dissapointed. I've drilled glass, built stands, and have done various home improvement projects- battery life has been great and the chuck actually seems tighter than my old corded Ryobi VSR.

If you have the money, go for the big guys... but for $15, why the hell not?!

Agreed:

http://i755.photobucket.com/albums/xx195/dudefromdenver/DSC_0002-1.jpg

I've had it for 4 years and have drilled through hundreds of walls..... I used to install cable, + it's a hammer drill. Cost me 20 for the drill and 10 for a extra battery.

[RokleM]

The Harbor Freight ones are pure gold in price, but don't honestly expect them to last TOO long. A couple years of occasional use and it's a solid purchase. I think mine lasted 30 or so packs.

The Hitachi lithium I have is AWWWESOME. Packs a huge punch, and the trigger is very accurate. I can barely spin the bit to full bore with no issues. When I built my monster sump a few years back, I used barely over a pack to drill 10-12 large holes.

It looks like this one but is gold:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_182091-67702-DS14DVF3_4294857554+4294837347_4294937087?productId=1052049

[jdargonaut]

From my experience in the drywall/metal stud framing end of construction, you usually see Dewalts out on the jobsite. I've always used the Dewalt impacts and Dewalt drywall guns. Believe me, we give them a beating on a daily basis and I always go back to them.

That said, when I need a simple tool for very occasional use, I will sometimes go to harborfreight. If it's a simple tool that only needs to spin a blade or shaft, then they have thier place. But they will not stand up to daily abuse, and not harborfreight for precision tools. For example, I use the harborfreight low speed/high torque drill for mixing joint compound and mortar and haven't had an issue yet, but at about $50 compared to a quality brand at $180+, I expect it to be short life tool and I can live with that.

[BeanAnimal]

I heard a couple years back that DeWalt went to plastic gears right after they were bought by one of the cheap-arse brands (Black and Decker?). Is this true?

Also, are the cordless impact drivers used for the same kind of work as the pnumatic ones? I have a cheapo one that came with my compressor, and I think it still has more power than these cordless ones.

An impact DRIVER and an IMPACT WRENCH are two very different beasts :)

The driver impacts inward as it rotates. The wrench impacts in the direction of rotation.

[BeanAnimal]

Dewalt has been owned by B&D since the 1960s. Every brand had a short run of plastic in the 90s, but Dewalt is now using all steel transmissions on the drills.

Almost every major hand and power tool brand (other than the china knock-offs) is made, or owned by one of three parent companies. I (and others) have posted the family tree here before so I will leave it to you folks to find it.

Yes B&D owns the company that makes DeWalt tools but DeWalt tools are not B&D tools.

[CJO]

If you are looking at driving screws, you want an impact driver, not a hammer drill. Hammer drills are used for drilling through masonry. I have a 12V DeWalt, 36V LIon DeWalt hammer drill, several other cordless drills of various makes and manufacturers. What I grab most of the time is the Bosh 12V LIon impact driver. The NiCAD 12V drills don't have enough torque.. the larger drills are much heavier. The 12V lithium ion impact driver is light and powerful and the impact driver portion of it makes driving screws without stripping them a breeze. I'm sure that the other brands of similar impact drivers are about as good.

CJ

[headshrink]

An impact DRIVER and an IMPACT WRENCH are two very different beasts :)

The driver impacts inward as it rotates. The wrench impacts in the direction of rotation.

Yes, of course. What about a rotory hammer?

[therman]

+1 on DeWalt. Used a few of the the 14V model for years and years and never had an issue. Put them through a severe beating and I regularly drill glass with them at work (dozens of bulkhead holes). The weight and balance is pretty good in the 14V for glass, light enough that you don't get exhausted holding it for a minute or two, and balanced enough that you don't torque the diamond bit accidentally.

[headshrink]

After watching youtube videos of DeWAlt vs Makita and DeWalt vs Milwakee (unofficial tests), I have to say the DeWalt does look stronger, inspite of what the box may say.
One thing that is in favor of the Makita though, other than a slightly lower price, is the weight and ergonomics for the DIY weekend warrior. It does look like the DeWalt is very likely the stronger of the two for those who make their living with it, and perhaps either would kick arse at home. Currently watching ebay for a deal, otherwise it has to be HD (partial gift cert).

I am intrigued about Harbor Freight, but I really can't find myself buying anything that plugs in there.... unless for a single job, or a very basic tool. The only thing I have bought from them is a tire bead breaker, and motorcycle wheel balancer. However, those who say they use them all the time may be on to the best kept secret.

[sonnus]

I would be very weary of the Rigid warranty. It is very vague and has MANY loop holes that allow them to break it. Also the warranty is actually for the lifetime of the tool, not your lifetime (so I've been told).
I just read the Ridgid lifetime service agreement (http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Power-Tool-Warranty) and it doesn't seem vague at all. They cover the chuck (these always wear out on me within 3-4 years), brushes, batteries, switches, gears or anything else that could wear out. This is a "limited-time" offer and is in addition to their standard 3 year warranty. If I was buying a new cordless tool this would be very hard to beat. They also have a 90 day satisfatction guarantee.

I guess I'm a sucker for these lifetime warranties. I only buy Craftsman mechanics tools too because of their warranty. I left a ratchet out in the rain once and it rusted up solid, they exchanged it without any questions.

[stugray]

I also swear by craftsman for handtools.

I once broke a 3/8" breaker bar and took it in.
The salesman said..."looks like you had about a 4 foot cheater bar on that" I said "no 6 feet!"

He handed me a brand new one and said have a nice day!

I also was driving down the road once and saw something that looked like a craftsman 3/8 ratchet. I swung around & picked it up. It WAS , but had the switch broken off.
I was driving right by a sears minutes later and exchanged it for a brand new one.

Nothing better than free craftsman.

Stu

[sonnus]

"looks like you had about a 4 foot cheater bar on that" I said "no 6 feet!"
lmao

[Miller_Time]

Almost every major hand and power tool brand (other than the china knock-offs) is made, or owned by one of three parent companies. I (and others) have posted the family tree here before so I will leave it to you folks to find it.

Yes B&D owns the company that makes DeWalt tools but DeWalt tools are not B&D tools.

I am very familiar with the family tree, and I completely agree they are the same company, but very different tools. Dewalt and Black and Decker share no parts between the two.

[sfsuphysics]

I'd go for a decent corded drill with a long extension cord as your primary drill. And if you do see the potential for middle of nowhere away from a plug type spaces by all means add a cheapy harbor freight cordless to that as well.

Never liked the cordless tools much myself, simply put ones with a reasonable amount of weight (distribution of that weight is important too!) don't have the power to do what you need, those with the power tended to be a bit too much strain.

Now if they can make a light weight DC power pack that delivers good juice and simply have a docking station to put the tool away with (so it's always got a full charge when I use it) then maybe I'll change my mind.

[CorkPullerPHL]

Dewalt 18V Cordless and a Corded hammer (brand of your choice).

When are you ever going to need a hammer drill more than 6 feet away from an outlet?

[Skeptic_07]

I got this Milwaukee 18v drill set (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG) and just love the hell out of it. Actually my father gave it to me when I turned 28 last year. My favorite thing about it is the little light just above the trigger that when you press, it comes on, and lights up what you're doing. Comes w/ an impact driver too, but i haven't used that too much. Quality seems good but I haven't had it very long. I need more time to beat it up to see what is really made of. :p HTH !

[dohc97]

I also swear by craftsman for handtools.

I once broke a 3/8" breaker bar and took it in.
The salesman said..."looks like you had about a 4 foot cheater bar on that" I said "no 6 feet!"

He handed me a brand new one and said have a nice day!

I also was driving down the road once and saw something that looked like a craftsman 3/8 ratchet. I swung around & picked it up. It WAS , but had the switch broken off.
I was driving right by a sears minutes later and exchanged it for a brand new one.

Nothing better than free craftsman.

Stu

I used to think the world of craftsman back when i was barely starting out, great tools for the weekend mechanic but not so good for a pro. I dont like the sloppiness of the ratchets or the fact they fall apart on me after about a month of heavy use. Same goes for the impact sockets and other tools. As far as drills i stick with the makita because mine came with 2 batteries, i only use it 4-5 times a month and it does the small jobs i need it to. I would listen to the builders in the thread if your going for heavy use, if you are a casual user then go with something you like and that does not have too many bad reviews.

[BeanAnimal]

A lot is being said about "hammer drills" and "imapct drills" here.

I think it is worth clearing up the differences between these tools.

There are (4) distinct types of tools and most people don't understand the differences.

1) Impact Wrench
2) Impact Driver
3) Hammer Drill
4) Rotary Hammer

An IMPACT WRENCH hammers in the direction of rotation, using the force of the impacts to literaly slamp the bolt or nut in direction of rotation. In most cases, the hammer only kicks on when there is a resistance to the rotation.

An IMPACT DRIVER slams a HAMMER into the BIT while the chuck rotates. This FORCES the screw being driven to take a deeper bit with each impact.

An HAMMER DRILL uses a gear to vibrate (for lack of better terms) the ENTIRE chuck assembly as the chuck rotates. The hammering action is very damped by the mass of the chuck. Hammer drills don't hammer very hard at all.

A ROTARY HAMMER (similar to an IMPACT DRIVER) slams a HAMMER into the end of the drill bit several times per rotation. Moving the force of the impact directly to the tip of the drill bit. Most people consfuse an 18V "hammer drill" with a true "rotary hammer". One is a toy, the other is used to drill holes in concrete and other very hard materials.

[RRaider]

I have a B&D 18v cordless and three batteries along with several other B&D cordless tools that use the same batteries and I've been happy with it.

[jmski333]

When are you ever going to need a hammer drill more than 6 feet away from an outlet?

Power is out and your doing some quick concrete installs. hahaha

[Fish Ace]

If I was starting over I head to Sears. At home I use a Ryobi at work Dewalt. I like the chuck on the Milwaukee and Porter Cable. You can really crank down on drill bits with the ratchet type chuck. All batteries sux and I would not waste my time buying the newer type, just make sure you have spares.

[USF Nealio]

An impact driver is not the same as an impact wrench. It will not provide the same hammering effect or torque to fulfill any task that would require an impact wrench.

My dad and I both have 18v DeWalt drills (Standard, not XRP hammers), and after 7 years they are still going strong. We both also have corded drills but rarely use them because of the power that the DeWalt's have and the fact that they come with 2 batteries so 1 is always charging.

[BeanAnimal]

An impact driver is not the same as an impact wrench. It will not provide the same hammering effect or torque to fulfill any task that would require an impact wrench.



An impact DRIVER and an IMPACT WRENCH are two very different beasts :)

The driver impacts inward as it rotates. The wrench impacts in the direction of rotation.





A lot is being said about "hammer drills" and "imapct drills" here.

I think it is worth clearing up the differences between these tools.

There are (4) distinct types of tools and most people don't understand the differences.

1) Impact Wrench
2) Impact Driver
3) Hammer Drill
4) Rotary Hammer

An IMPACT WRENCH hammers in the direction of rotation, using the force of the impacts to literaly slamp the bolt or nut in direction of rotation. In most cases, the hammer only kicks on when there is a resistance to the rotation.

An IMPACT DRIVER slams a HAMMER into the BIT while the chuck rotates. This FORCES the screw being driven to take a deeper bite with each impact.

A HAMMER DRILL uses a gear to vibrate (for lack of better terms) the ENTIRE chuck assembly as the chuck rotates. The hammering action is very damped by the mass of the chuck. Hammer drills don't hammer very hard at all.

A ROTARY HAMMER (similar to an IMPACT DRIVER) slams a HAMMER into the end of the drill bit several times per rotation. Moving the force of the impact directly to the tip of the drill bit. Most people consfuse an 18V "hammer drill" with a true "rotary hammer". One is a toy, the other is used to drill holes in concrete and other very hard materials.
:)

[heavencie]

I never bought a makita and have always wanted to have one. I was wondering if makita lxt202 (http://www.makitalxt202.com) is the best choice. Found this product here http://www.makitalxt202.com/makita-lxt202-factory-reconditioned-18volt-lxt-lithiumion-cordless

Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks,


makita lxt202 (http://www.makitalxt202.com)

[onebadbug]

I've been in the tradres, glazier 25+ years as well as owned a glass shop with my wife for the last 12 years until 2009...

For cordless (for corded tools I tend to lean towards Milwaukee & Hilti) ones go I've always used Dewalt ever since they came out with the 9.6v series (ca. late 80's) and nearly every model since then as well as supplied my employees with them and let them beat the hedoublehockeysticks out them year in, year out... till this day, I still have my original 9.6v as well as about a dozen newer 12v, 18v & 24v models (all are hammers). The only thing I have ever had to replace is batteries about every 500 charges...

Even the one that came out of the back of the rack truck on the Kenedy Expwy at 70mph still works... after adding some duct tape and a few nuts and bolts.

Dewalt :thumbsup:

[headshrink]

Thank you all for your input... it was quite helpful.

I ended up getting the Makita BHP454. The reason I went this way instead of the DeWalt was because, although I could clearly see on youtube videos the DeWalt had a little more muscle, my needs are a little lighter and the Makita's lower weight, slightly more compact design, PRICE, and Li-Ion batteries at this price point tipped the scale. Well, all that and I got a good deal on ebay ;) I paid ~$205 plus shipping for a NIB drill (it was $280 + tax at HD).

For heavier or daily use I probably would have chosen the DeWalt, BUT at least I'll have Makita experience for next time... although hopefully that doesn't come soon ;)

[motopsycho]

I just purchased the M18 Milwaukie Drill Combo kit. Drill and Impact. Picked it up for $200 (CAD) Very nice drills :thumbsup:

[BeanAnimal]

Thank you all for your input... it was quite helpful.

I ended up getting the Makita BHP454. The reason I went this way instead of the DeWalt was because, although I could clearly see on youtube videos the DeWalt had a little more muscle, my needs are a little lighter and the Makita's lower weight, slightly more compact design, PRICE, and Li-Ion batteries at this price point tipped the scale. Well, all that and I got a good deal on ebay ;) I paid ~$205 plus shipping for a NIB drill (it was $280 + tax at HD).

For heavier or daily use I probably would have chosen the DeWalt, BUT at least I'll have Makita experience for next time... although hopefully that doesn't come soon ;)

Not to scare you, but be careful of "NIB" tools on eBay. A large portion of them are defects or returns from etail and retail markets. They are sold by the truck load to liquidators who don't check or refurb them. They just liquidate them to ebay vendors. Where do you think all of the returns to HD, LOWES, Sears, K-Mart, Etc. end up :)

[headshrink]

Not to scare you, but be careful of "NIB" tools on eBay. A large portion of them are defects or returns from etail and retail markets. They are sold by the truck load to liquidators who don't check or refurb them. They just liquidate them to ebay vendors. Where do you think all of the returns to HD, LOWES, Sears, K-Mart, Etc. end up :)

I will be honest with you.... I did make an emotional buy.
I also had a little feeling about this, but the add didn't say it was remanufactered.... may still be legal, hopefully I'm lucky, but thank you for the warning. I'll be aware of this for the future.

[BeanAnimal]

I will be honest with you.... I did make an emotional buy.
I also had a little feeling about this, but the add didn't say it was remanufactered.... may still be legal, hopefully I'm lucky, but thank you for the warning. I'll be aware of this for the future.

Yup just something to keep in mind :) I buy a lot of stuff on eBay, but tend to stay away from "new" tools and electronics. There are too many dishonest people selling too many "NIB" goods that are factory rejects or returns.

[nixer]

ive had and used tons of tools (union ironworker).
i have the dewalt 18v drill, impact driver and the 1/2 impact they take a beating. i also have a 1/2 corded hammer/combo which is fine for light stuff(tapcons) i also have an sds hammer (pretty large) i have used the impact driver with a masonary bit and it works good just dont press hard :)