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View Full Version : Just did my first water test... A little confused.


jailbird371
05/11/2010, 10:03 AM
First I have to say the testing kit that came with my 29 gallon "starter kit" doesn't measure Nitrates....W T F?

Gravity - between 1.021 & 1.022
Ph - 8
Temp - 76F-78F
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - <0.3
Nitrate - who knows?! :furious:

I'm confused because the tank has been only set up for 8 days, 6 of which were with 40lbs of LR straight out of my LFS's tanks. Should my ammonia and nitrites be that low already? I'm going to get a new testing kit tomorrow so I can get all the info i need. Do you recommend the strips of the drops?

BTW I'm very new at all this.

footballdude2k3
05/11/2010, 10:13 AM
never ever at any time consider strips, drops are needed they are much more accurate, your gravity is too low for my tase, i would bring it to 1.025-1.027. if you got the live rock straight out of the tank and they were not out of the water very long, you likely would not have much of a cycle. try to put some fish food in the tank for a few days and test to see if it goes up noticably, if not you should be good to go to start to put a little in, but remember the longer you wait, the safer it is.

phenom5
05/11/2010, 10:18 AM
Depending on the quality of LR, it could have been a quick cycle. Did you see any kind of ammonia at some point?

I would definitely pick up a new kit to verify the results. Definitely drops over strips. The API basic kit would be a good choice. Reasonably priced, and pretty accurate.

I'd also suggest slowly bringing your SG up to 1.025-1.026.

bmiller1234
05/11/2010, 10:30 AM
Before adjusting salinity are you using a refractometer or a needle indicator? The plastic needle ones are far from accurate and can be way off.

Other than that +1 on what everyone else said. With good cured rock your cycle will be short if at all.

jailbird371
05/11/2010, 10:47 AM
I have one of these.

http://www.petco.com/Assets/product_images/5/5137802503C.jpg

footballdude2k3
05/11/2010, 10:53 AM
sorry to say you are going to want to ditch that, hydrometers are wildly inaccurate, get a refractometer, much much more accurate.

bmiller1234
05/11/2010, 11:25 AM
You can get a decent refactometer in fleabay for 30 bucks and will save you slot of heartache down the road. Take a sample to your lfs and have them test for you.

aixelsyd18
05/11/2010, 12:38 PM
+1 on the refractometer

I had problems with my mix at the start and once I finally coughed up the money for that life has been easy for measuring my gravity.

Fizz71
05/11/2010, 12:50 PM
+1 on everything up there...Just in case you wanted a 6th opinion. :)

ritter6788
05/11/2010, 01:27 PM
I have one of these.

http://www.petco.com/Assets/product_images/5/5137802503C.jpg
Everyone dogs these but I use exact as this and it works fine. I have a refractomer also and I have checked the hydrometer against it and they are both the exact same. I think the trick is to rinse it well and get all the air bubbles out of it and off the swing arm. I use a wooden spoon to knock all the bubbles of the swing arm and it is very accurate. I'm not saying it's better than a refractometer but it works well. Refractometers need calibration too so you can mess up your SG with one of those just as easily as a hydrometer.

GKill
05/11/2010, 01:35 PM
I agree with ritter. My informal tests have concluded that both are acceptable when taken care of properly. Some may disagree, but I like what my studies have shown.

I also like the cheap temperature strips and have tested these against high quality thermometers and have found them to be as accurate as needed.

mthomp
05/11/2010, 01:41 PM
yeah if you rinse those things before and after each use these work fine. I even give it a shake ro 2 making sure the swing arm isnt stuck.

juicesay
05/11/2010, 02:03 PM
First I have to say the testing kit that came with my 29 gallon "starter kit" doesn't measure Nitrates....W T F?

Gravity - between 1.021 & 1.022
Ph - 8
Temp - 76F-78F
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - <0.3
Nitrate - who knows?! :furious:

I'm confused because the tank has been only set up for 8 days, 6 of which were with 40lbs of LR straight out of my LFS's tanks. Should my ammonia and nitrites be that low already? I'm going to get a new testing kit tomorrow so I can get all the info i need. Do you recommend the strips of the drops?

BTW I'm very new at all this.

LOL!

There should be a nitrate test kit in every test kit you buy as a package.

Try using a refractometer, they work wonders.
Hydrometer works fine too though!

jchase1970
05/11/2010, 04:46 PM
if you make sure to get the microbubbles off the hydrometer needle then my always matches my refractometer that I got cause everyone said hydrometers arnt right:confused:

Tuscaquatics
05/11/2010, 04:52 PM
Not to get too far off the original post, but one reason people always have issues with the swing-arms and bubbles is because they're not filling it right. Ever notice that chamber on the right side that has a hole in the side? That's kind of a bubble trap. You dip the hydrometer straight down into the water and let it fill from the hole in the side. Voila! No bubbles.

Doing this and rinsing it every time with clean water will give better results. I test mine against a floating hydrometer once in a while and it stays accurate. I'd use the floating one much more often but it's a PITA. I need a long graduated cylinder like we used to use in chemistry class.

juicesay
05/11/2010, 05:54 PM
The swing arm does have salt encrust on it over time. So you will have to eventually replace it in the future. I normally soak mine in RODI water as it breaks down any salt deposits. That needle arm is very sensitive. I have the refractometer as a backup. I get lazy to use the refractometer, hydrometer is so fast and easy!

trigger:)
05/11/2010, 09:45 PM
throw 2 damsels in there and wait at least a month and a half, tank needs to cycle!

dwd5813
05/11/2010, 09:59 PM
throw 2 damsels in there and wait at least a month and a half, tank needs to cycle!
second half of that is accurate, but the first part is totally unnecessary. no need to expose fish to ammonia and in addition the damsels aren't necessarily the fish one might want.

jailbird371
05/12/2010, 08:14 AM
Depending on the quality of LR, it could have been a quick cycle. Did you see any kind of ammonia at some point?

I would definitely pick up a new kit to verify the results. Definitely drops over strips. The API basic kit would be a good choice. Reasonably priced, and pretty accurate.

I'd also suggest slowly bringing your SG up to 1.025-1.026.

Yesterday was the first time I tested, so no I haven't seen any ammonia. I'm gonna head out in a bit and get a new test it.

jailbird371
05/12/2010, 12:37 PM
OK, I justed tested everything out with the new kit. It seems my cycle was practically instant with the LR.

Gravity - between 1.021 & 1.022
Ph - 7.8
Temp - 76F-78F
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20


Looks like it's time for my first water change. I was thinking about 20%. That should bring up my PH right?

juicesay
05/12/2010, 04:15 PM
You can use Kalkwasser to bring up your PH too, that is a bit more natural and a cheaper alternative. Rather than having to use fresh salt mix and fresh RODI water.

Tuscaquatics
05/12/2010, 07:08 PM
It being only a 29 gallon tank, I'd do more like a 50 percent change.

reefinmike
05/12/2010, 10:37 PM
doing a wc will raise your ph up a bit, but the best method is to get it at the source. Low alkalinity leads to low and unstable PH. simply add baking soda. Add a teaspoon of baking soda disolved in some tank water once a day until the ph is up to 8.2 or 8.3

bmiller1234
05/13/2010, 08:06 AM
baking soda raises alk only. baked baking soda raises ph and alk. Low ph is typically poor aeration and or high co2 levels in air around tank.

I don't have the link but use the reefcalculator to find your best additive and how much to add. I would recommend a two part like b ionic. Kalk is nice but far from a perfect science and if messed up can cause major issues. Ph swings alk overdoses precipitation issues.

For now don't worry about ph toooooo much right now. Concentrate on stabilizing your alk Cal and mag. Then when you have those parameters in check and somewhat stable see where your ph is at. Ph is def important but its more an indicator that something else is wrong. IE low alk poor aeration not enough turbulence at surface etc.

bmiller1234
05/13/2010, 08:14 AM
Oh and when you mix your salt for water change mix it high. Maybe around .030. That will start bringing your salinity up. Or you can mix at 026 and just too off with saltwater till salinity raises