View Full Version : New QT and new fish
Setting up my QT tonight for fish I have on hold and will get tomorrow afternoon/evening. So far have a Scopas tang, and a Sailfin tang, but then I also got a sweetlips clownfish too. I know that these all grow large, but they are going in a 120. I'll have pics tomorrow night. The LFS has their salinity at 1.019 so I'm setting the QT at that and if there are no problems, I'll raise it to 1.025 over the coarse of a week before transfer. Any one see problems here?
Jstdv8
06/25/2010, 11:47 PM
those tangs might have issues togther in a QT for 4-6 weeks together. you'll have to keep an eye on them. I prefer to QT one fish at a time personally.
MCCOOL
06/25/2010, 11:54 PM
How big is the qt tank? How big are the fish? How do you plan on dealing with the massive amounts of ammonia those fish are going to produce?
QT is a 30 gal, sweetlips is only a inch and a half, while the tangs are about two inches. All are on the small side now. I'm going to get a ammonia emergency reader to help watch that and water changes to help keep it clean. HOB filter seeded from my other tank is already on too.
lisafoster
06/26/2010, 06:08 AM
I am not the tang police but that sailfin gets huge way to small for a 120. That sweetlips gets 24" I think you should reconsider these fish. That qt is way to small to put the three fish in together. I see you have a 120 in the works is that where the fish will be housed also is it a 4 foot tank?
If you want to properly QT 1 fish at a time would be the way to go. And the fact you just set the tank up is another concern. You really need established bacteria to ensure you don't get an amonnia spike that will kill the fish.
Palting
06/26/2010, 07:04 AM
Glad to see you're re-stocking the tank, Rayn!
Not so sure about your choice of fish, though, as well as the the plan to QT them all together in a 30 gal. I have 3 tangs in a 110, and I just can't see 2 tangs in a 55, much less 2 Tangs in a 30. I would wait until I had the 120 up and stable, then re-stock and QT one fish at a time. Patience, remember?
One other way may be to place the fish in the 55 without QT. Get the 120 up and running, place all the corals and inverts in it, then convert the 55 into an interim treatment tank and treat your fish with Copper. Your 120 with the coral and inverts will be fishless for 6 weeks, and the fish stay in the coppered 55 tank for 6 weeks as well. That's what I plan to do for my move from my Ich 110 to the new 150.
Chris27
06/26/2010, 07:49 AM
Glad to see you're re-stocking the tank, Rayn!
Not so sure about your choice of fish, though, as well as the the plan to QT them all together in a 30 gal. I have 3 tangs in a 110, and I just can't see 2 tangs in a 55, much less 2 Tangs in a 30. I would wait until I had the 120 up and stable, then re-stock and QT one fish at a time. Patience, remember?
One other way may be to place the fish in the 55 without QT. Get the 120 up and running, place all the corals and inverts in it, then convert the 55 into an interim treatment tank and treat your fish with Copper. Your 120 with the coral and inverts will be fishless for 6 weeks, and the fish stay in the coppered 55 tank for 6 weeks as well. That's what I plan to do for my move from my Ich 110 to the new 150.
Now that's the right way to go - perfect suggestion.
Glad to see you're re-stocking the tank, Rayn!
Not so sure about your choice of fish, though, as well as the the plan to QT them all together in a 30 gal. I have 3 tangs in a 110, and I just can't see 2 tangs in a 55, much less 2 Tangs in a 30. I would wait until I had the 120 up and stable, then re-stock and QT one fish at a time. Patience, remember?
One other way may be to place the fish in the 55 without QT. Get the 120 up and running, place all the corals and inverts in it, then convert the 55 into an interim treatment tank and treat your fish with Copper. Your 120 with the coral and inverts will be fishless for 6 weeks, and the fish stay in the coppered 55 tank for 6 weeks as well. That's what I plan to do for my move from my Ich 110 to the new 150.
I like your idea, but the 120 is a long way from being ready. Lights, sump, skimmer, drill all that has to come. I thought if I QT them and get them in my 55 it would buy me some time to get the 120 going and still make sure they are doing well. Besides, if I run copper in the 55 then it is useless as a future or current reef, and I don't like that idea to much.
If you want to properly QT 1 fish at a time would be the way to go. And the fact you just set the tank up is another concern. You really need established bacteria to ensure you don't get an amonnia spike that will kill the fish.
I understand the bacteria point, but I thought useing water from a current tank out of a water change and haveing a HOB filter kinda took care of that.
Jstdv8
06/26/2010, 02:45 PM
you could go with hyposalinity instead of copper for your 55g. So you can still use the 55 for something else later. like a sweet sump/fuge for your 120.
I agree witht eh poster that those fish will get too large for 120 when they reach adulthood.
MCCOOL
06/26/2010, 03:14 PM
The water itself doesn't have much bacteria in it, but if your HOB media has been in your current reef for >2weeks, it should have bacteria already. That coupled with large frequent water changes should handle the ammonia.
The water itself doesn't have much bacteria in it, but if your HOB media has been in your current reef for >2weeks, it should have bacteria already. That coupled with large frequent water changes should handle the ammonia.
The HOB has been running on my 29 for about three months, so good and seeded.
No worries on the fish. Able I already talked the wifely into a future upgrade that would hold these fish, I went and cancelled my hold. Ill find some more appropriately sized fish.
Okay palting, I'm using your idea to a certian extent. One clown I already have. Got a second and going to put those two in the 55. I also got one heck of a deal on a new nem. I took the killer condy back and found rose nems!! Very small and under bad lights, but only $20 a piece. I got the biggest one they had at about a quarter size. Seeded 29 gal will get a blue tang. Wife always wants one, so I went ahead and got her one. Second 29 which is my actual QT is going to get a leapard wrasse. Hopefully no one gets ich or any other disease, but if so I should have enough tanks running at once to do the treatment I need. This gives me +- four weeks to get the 120 running and transfer all over to it. Now I just need a sump, skimmer, and lights ;)
Palting
06/26/2010, 08:06 PM
Okay palting, I'm using your idea to a certian extent. One clown I already have. Got a second and going to put those two in the 55. I also got one heck of a deal on a new nem. I took the killer condy back and found rose nems!! Very small and under bad lights, but only $20 a piece. I got the biggest one they had at about a quarter size. Seeded 29 gal will get a blue tang. Wife always wants one, so I went ahead and got her one. Second 29 which is my actual QT is going to get a leapard wrasse. Hopefully no one gets ich or any other disease, but if so I should have enough tanks running at once to do the treatment I need. This gives me +- four weeks to get the 120 running and transfer all over to it. Now I just need a sump, skimmer, and lights ;)
Good Luck!! :)
Here is the rose nem, like I said slightly bleached, but it was under T8 bulbs at the LFS
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view¤t=7022539f.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/7022539f.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
here are the blue tang and leapard wrasse. Wrasse will be moving soon, but I check the parameters on the other QT and there was a small amonia spike so I did a water change and we will see from there.....
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view¤t=0a36e732.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/0a36e732.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
edit: whole reason for posting, everyone just ate so I am happy about that!
As said in the post above, there was/is a small .025 ammonia spike in the new QT. It is a 29 gal and I did a 8 gal water change and added a ammonia buffer pad in the HOB. Tested about a hour later and no change at all. What can I do to remove the ammonia in the tank?
As said in the post above, there was/is a small .025 ammonia spike in the new QT. It is a 29 gal and I did a 8 gal water change and added a ammonia buffer pad in the HOB. Tested about a hour later and no change at all. What can I do to remove the ammonia in the tank?
Do a 100% water change. and be prepared to be able to do them on a regular basis. Apperently the bacteria you had seeded was not enough for the fish you added to the tank. If you are not using copper you can use an ammonia binding agent such as Seachem Prime. But I would do the water change.
I did another big water change and with the filter pad in there it has stayed at zero for a day now. Ill probably transfer the wrasse to tonight if all still looks good.
Thats your call.....I personlly do not remove a fish from QT until it has been thru a 4 week Cuprmaine treatment and a 1 week praziquantil treatment.
Thats your call.....I personlly do not remove a fish from QT until it has been thru a 4 week Cuprmaine treatment and a 1 week praziquantil treatment.
I mean from the QT with the tang into its own QT. So each are separate.
OK thats a good idea....If there is enough bacteria to support setting up the second tank.
I know the general rule of one fish per QT, but I went out to buy fish food tonight and suckered myself into a rabbitfish. He is in the new QT by himself and for now I'm leaving the wrasse alone. Still have another tank on standby if needed though. LFS has 30% off till end of month, only cost me 20. Also got another rose nem,cept got this one out the door for 8 bucks!
Palting
06/28/2010, 10:30 PM
Yup, I agree with you. You're a sucker!! :). Next thing you know, you'll be hauling up some plastic bin and attaching a filter you bought "cheap" and a new fish you saw and calling THAT a new QT :D
Jstdv8
06/29/2010, 12:13 AM
my RBTA was pink like that when I got it. it lived like that for a few months and then one day just dissapeared. never saw it again.
Yup, I agree with you. You're a sucker!! :). Next thing you know, you'll be hauling up some plastic bin and attaching a filter you bought "cheap" and a new fish you saw and calling THAT a new QT :D
I'm just trying to be prepared. :) I do have to say the plastic bin idea is good, ill have to remember that.
Palting
06/29/2010, 07:52 AM
I'm just trying to be prepared. :) I do have to say the plastic bin idea is good, ill have to remember that.
LOL! You are incorrigible, Rayn.
LOL! You are incorrigible, Rayn.
This site is full of great ideas, I'm just trying to use them to their fullest extent. ;)
All kidding aside for the moment. The ich has reared its ugly head. :(
The 29 with the blue tang and wrasse has it. Tang for sure, wrasse not so sure. The 55 that I used as Paltings idea has one clown with it.
The 29 with the rabbitfish so far does not show ich, but he still seems ticked off, even though as I turn around and look at him he is suddenly swimming all around the tank. :hmm4:
What is the best way to treat these guys? Apparently ich is in my 55, so I won't, can't don't want to introduce more fish in there once QT is done. Should I move the two clowns in with the tang and wrasse ( a 29 gal tank with LR) and treat all in there? I don't care about the LR or if I lose it to treatment, I just want the best way to treat them all. Copper, Hypo, feed and wait approach?
Cupramine.....at .5 for 4 weeks. Just add it slower then the bottle tells you. Dosage is 1ml for 10.5 gallons. Wait 48 hours then repeat. So lets say you have a 30 gallon tank. You will dose a little under 3ml wait 48 hours then another 3ml for a total dosage of 6ml this will get you to .5. I would split the dose up into 3 - 2ml doses over the course of a week.
I'll get some tonight. Do I want to put all the fish in one tank? Wrasse, tang, two clowns? Like I said it would be a 29 gal. API is the only copper test I have seen in my area, are they accurate enough to use?
No get a red sea or salifert copper kit. I would leave the fish in seperate tanks. Also get some bacteria in a bottle just incase. Also have a good amount of new water made up with the copper level the same as the tank to do water changes if you get amonnia. I also suggest you get a seachem amonnia alert disk so you can monitor it all the time.
Crap ill have to order stuff then. No one close carries those tests within 30 miles. Can I just feed with garlic or vitamins till I get that stuff here? Working on making water now, and ill get the ammonia disk. So far I've checked every night and there has been no reading.
If the fish are still eating yes garlic and vitamin soak and make sure you keep the water quality good by doing regular large water changes. If your going to order online you should just get everything. Cupramine, Salifert copper kit, Bateria in a bottle and the amonnia alert disk. I can't stress enough the importance of having a large amount of saltwater made up to do water changes. This can be huge in keeping the fish healthy in QT. Good Luck.
Ill order it all today, water change tonight. Thanks for the help!
Hopefully tomorrow ill have atleast one more tank for QT. Do I have to separate each fish? I'm gonna be running five QT and the one display with two more tanks sitting there for the 120! After I use copper in them they are pretty much useless to me for anything but QT.
From the reading I have done you are still fine using the tank after copper. Just need to rinse it good and after you fill it up let it run with carbon for a while. If you can filter each tank with some kind of biological filter I would treat each fish in a seperate tank. But if you can't filter them properly I would think of another plan.
So let me make sure I have this right. I can use a tank for a reef setup whether a display or sump AFTER I use copper, as long as I clean it very well and run carbon. Going that route I would have enough tanks to divide them all up.
Jstdv8
06/30/2010, 12:24 PM
I wouldnt trust that. the copper leaches in and out of the silicone that holds the glass together.
you could get it all set up again and have it leach out and kill your corals you put back in the tank.
In my opinion yes. Some people think that the copper stays in the seals but thru some conversation with Seachem I feel it does not. I would make sure you clean the tank real well and let it run with carbon for a couple months before you but any inverts or corals in it.
Check this out...
http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Cupramine.html#faq12
I wouldnt trust that. the copper leaches in and out of the silicone that holds the glass together.
you could get it all set up again and have it leach out and kill your corals you put back in the tank.
Not true.....
Palting
06/30/2010, 02:40 PM
Kinda late jumping into this Rayn, but I agree with everything RBU1 has advised so far. As you know, I have a 110 Ich tank and I'm trying to move into an Ich free 150 tank, and I have heavily invested time and eyeball power researching. So far, everything RBU1 has said is backed up by my research.
Thanks for the link RBU1. That seems to answer the question of use in tanks. Not all the tanks I would be running would go over to a reef style setup. Some are possible. I just got a 40 breeder that was supposed to be my sump for the 120, might use that as a HT, but that would push back the 120 again. Two clowns are in the 55, only one shows signs of ich. Not to say the other isn't harboring it. Tang definately shows ich, but I was aware that was a very good possibility with the blue tang. Wrasse shows no signs that I can see. The rabbitfish is acting much better today, finally swimming all over the tank and eating a full cube of Formula 2 by Ocean Nutrition and a strip of green marine algea. The clowns, tang, and wrasse all took after the mysis that I fed tonight, while the tang or wrasse also like the green marine algea I put in that tank. So far I am figureing that I need three more 20gal tanks for HT so I can split them all up. They will then stay in their individual tanks for six to eight weeks till the 55 should be clear and the 120 is going.
RBU1, seachem has a product called cuprisorb is it worth getting to help take the copper out? Also they state that ammonia tests can't distinguish between copper amine and ammonia, will the disk still be worth it?
Cuprisorb will do a better job then just carbon. However if you are doing a large water change carbon will do the job to remove the little bit of copper left in the water. I would get the amonnia alert disk well worth the $6.00 for piece of mind. You might be able to get away with 2 tanks. The clowns and wrasse in one tank and the tang and rabbitfish in the other. I would use the 4' long tanks and get as much flow and filtration in the tank as possible. The more biological filtration the better. I have a 30 long as my QT and a W/D filter under it sized for a 125 gallon tank. I also have an emperor 400 hang on filter with the bio wheels. My tank has great biological filtration which is keeping me from getting any amonnia. The more filtration and larger the water changes the better.
If you can get a couple 30 gallon long tanks that would be ideal. The 36" lenght would be good enough and 30 gallon water changes are not as bad as a 40 and a 55 gallon water change. Just incase you have not figured out the importance of this I will say it again. FILTRATION of the biological type is KEY......Get some filters that have great biological features. I would get 2 emperor 400's one for each tank. Your problem is that you have nothing really established. SO PLEASE keep a great eye on amonnia.....and nitrites....
One 29 has a penguin 350 however no biowheels, just the filter pads. The other 29 has just a plain ol HOB filter rated for the 29. El cheapo in other words. I will get the stuff ordered now, and probably won't get any different tanks till this weekend. What can I do to help these guys along till I get all I need? When I do get the tanks, I'll transfer the water over from the 29 and the 55 if need be when I do a water change on it. Not much, but it is something I think.
Bacteria in a bottle. Are you talking about something like seachem stability, brightwell microbactor7, or something I'm missing?
Can you get bio wheels for it? When you order stuff make sure you get some type of bacteria. I used Nite Out by Microblift. Transfering water is ok but not going to help with the bacteria aspect of things. The bacteria stays in the filter media. So I would probably use some new water when you do the transfer.
Bacteria in a bottle. Are you talking about something like seachem stability, brightwell microbactor7, or something I'm missing?
Yes any off those will work. Just don't use any amonnia binding agents like Prime, amonnia lock......They don't play well with the Cupramine.
In the mean time try to keep things as stress free as possible. Don't overfeed because it will mess up the water quality. Do as large of a water change as you can every couple days to make sure water is staying pristine. The less stress the better.
Okay, water is getting made now to have more on hand. My 29 are actually 30" long. Is that close enough in your opinion to the 30l or should I move up to the 30l? Everything was just ordered. Thanks again for all the help, I'll keep updating if there are changes or questions.
You should be good with the 29. As long as the fish are still eating you will be ok. But only feed what they will eat and limit it to once a day or every other day to make sure the water quality is staying up.
And no problem. I don't mind helping.
Once day is what they have been getting right now to keep down on the trates. They all swim around and seem fine, just those stupid little white dots.
I get home tonight and check my tanks. Rabbitfish, still by himself looks good. Clowns, in the 55 show almost no signs of ich on either one of them. Wrasse and tang in 29 show now signs on the wrasse and only one faint dot on the tang. I know that ich is still present, but I have to guess this is a good sign, right?
Yes good sign for now.....The cycle causes ich to fall off and reproduce. Did you start any copper yet? Keep doing the water changes and keeping an eye on amonnia
I think I said it earlier, but if not, I had to order in the copper medication. Got it, bacteria, ammonia disc, and test kit. Shipped today, so I hope it shows soon. More water being made tonight, and all tests so far so no ammonia.
OH OK....If you have water made up and you feel like doing it if you can get as close to 100% of the water changed out that would be good. If the ich has gone into the free floating stage there is a chance you can reduce the numbers by sucking them out during a water change. If your not ready no big deal. Every little bit helps.....
Keeping up on the water changes. But question. You keep saying 100% water change. How do I do that and keep fish from being exposed to air? I can see 50% or 75%, but I can't see moving them and stressing them out just to change water.
As close as you can get to 100% when I do mine I leave about 4" of water at the bottom just for him to swim in.
That is what I thought, but never know in this hobby. There are some weird practices that I have adopted that I personally would have never thought to do if not pointed out.
WOOOOOHOOOOO!!!!!! Finally saw the rabbitfish eat tonight. I know he has cause food disapeared, but never quick enough for me to see him go after it :)
Dont overfeed.......Watch the amonnia and keep up the water changes.....
I went to smaller amounts, and every other day as per your suggestion. So far all looks good and water changes are still on going.
mal1099
07/02/2010, 09:59 PM
hey rayn do you have a place for the leopard wrasse to sleep . I didnt see anything with sand in it for him to burrow in. You can stress it out if no place for it to sleep and feel safe. I have a number of sand divers in my tank i suggest a bowl with like 3-4 inches of sand in it for him. His stress level will go down alot.
No I don't, but if that will help I will do it. I looked on liveaquaria about him, but don't remember seeing anything about that. I'll get one for him though, thanks.
I had a yellow coris wrasse in QT for 6 weeks with just PVC pipe. He would wedge himself under the pipe. I think you will be fine.
Mine hides under the rock I have in there now. If PVC is good rock should work.
The cupramine and all arrive yesterday. All ready to start treating the QT, but I'm wondering if I should right now. Looking at all the fish in the different tanks, I can see nothing wrong. Do I just treat with the cupramine because I have seen ich in the past or wait till I see it again?
All fish look good, swimming and eating. Water parameters are still good from the water changes with .25 tp 0 ammonia in the one tanks only, while the other is a constant 0.
Yes still do the treatment. Not sure what your tank size is but break the dosage amount into 4 doses and space them out a couple days apart making sure the fish continue to eat and act normal. The doage on the bottle states 1ml per 10.5 gallons wait 48 hours then redose. so using 10.5 gallons as the tank size when you dose the first 1ml the reading should be .25 after 48 hours when you redose the second ml that should get you to the .5 treatment range. Here is what I would do if I was basing my tank size off 10.5 gallons. After the fish have been in the QT for a week or 2 and are eating normal I begin Cuprmaine. Day one of Cuprmaine if I had a 10.5 gallon tank I would add 1/2 an ml wait 48 hours to make sure the fish are still eating then add the next 1/2ml. I would wait another 48 hours to make sure all is good then add another 1/2ml wait 48 hours then another 1/2ml testing to make sure you are in the correct range. I found that adding the copper slower has been better for the fish. Good luck. If you need help send me a PM and I will give you my cell number.
Thanks for the help. Ill start the treatment today and keep watch. Di resin ran out so I have to get some or buy water to keep up on changes now.
Jstdv8
07/10/2010, 01:34 PM
Did you get a copper test kit?
Palting
07/10/2010, 02:27 PM
Rayn and RBU, just wanted to let the both of you know I am taking notes for when I do mine. Good luck!
Did you get a copper test kit?
Yes at the same time.
Rayn and RBU, just wanted to let the both of you know I am taking notes for when I do mine. Good luck!
Anything I can do to help you out, as long as its not at the price of my fish. :)
Well here I am finally ready to start cupramine treatments. Start testing the tanks to make sure all is good to go. Main DT has a salinity of 1.025. Main QT has a salinity of 1.205. Secondary QT has a salintiy of 1.021. So thinking along the lines of ich and where I have and have not seen it, I'm going to cupramine my main QT and not the secondary. The leapard wrasse I have seen nothing on, while the blue tang in there I have seen some spots come and go in the main QT. The rabbitfish in the secondary QT I have never seen anything on.
Does this sound logical? I am basically doing hyposalinity in the rabbitfish QT, maybe just need to lower it a bit yet?
Also the main DT has shown signs of ich in the recent past, reasons for the multiple QT, and I have a third 29 gal able to be set up for another QT for the two clowns. Should I set this up and place the clowns in there or are they able to go in with the rabbitfish?
PSU-Reefer
07/12/2010, 07:19 PM
Rooting for you any your fish. If I had any doubts before about a quarantine, this thread has changed that.
OK I am confused.....When you treat with cupramine you want you salinity at normal level 1.025-1.026 range. Not sure why you would be treating your main tank with Cupramine. I thought you had all your fish in seperate tanks and your main tank fishless. I must have missed something. I am not a fan of treating your main tank but I know people have done it before. I am also not a big fan of hypo because maintaining PH is a PITA.....and you have to make sure you keep your salinty at 1.009 with no variations at all. anything higher then that and there is a change the parasite will survive.
Sorry for the confusion, my miswording. First, I am not treating my main tank. It was mentioned only to compare salinity to the QT tanks, and that there are two clowns in there. Second, I didn't realize hypo needed to be so low, so I will bring the rabbitfish tank up to match the DT at 1.025 and start cupramine. The other QT currently has the wrasse and blue tang and starting cupramine with them as well. They seem to be dong well together, so for the time being I would like to leave it that way.
This tank was set up for another full fledged nano tank way back when and has ~32 lbs of seeded base rock that went through the cycle. I am keeping this LR in my QT for the hiding spots, bacteria benefit. Would it be useful to move some over to the other QT for the bacteria benefits and ability to keep ammonia down? This will stay QT LR and not go back into the DT once cupramine is intoduced either.
So far water changes have been going fine, and ammonia is not present at detectable levels with tests and the ammonia alert disc.
If the rock is going to stay QT rock it will not hurt but will suck up the cupramine causing you to have to add more. Make sure when you add the Cupramine you add it slower then the bottle tells you to. for the 29 gallon tanks I would add 1.5 ml wait 48 hours to make sure the fish are still eating and doing well, then add another 1.5 ml wait 48 hours take a test and you should read .25 add another 1.5ml wait 48 hours then add the fianl 1 ml and now you should read .5. (you might read less because of the rock)..... Then make sure you make up a good amount of new water and add the cuprmine to it to get it up to .5 to match the tanks. So now when you do water changes the cupramine is already in the new water keeping your levels steady. Its a PITA to tell the blue color when you are testing but do the best you can. Not sure if you got an amonnia disk for each tank or not but keep an eye on them if you did.
Sounds good, and I'll mix the cupramine in the new water. Yes I got a disc for each tank, just to be on the safe side.
Cupramine in!!! The bottle say 16 drops per 10.5 gallons. So I did 40 drops. With the rock I have in there and the water displacement I decided to play it a little safe and see how it works. Will test tomorrow and feed, the redose on Thursday. I also put the stability in the tank last night to help out, should that be added every day per the bottle recommendations or inbetween days of the cupramine?
Jstdv8
07/13/2010, 06:46 PM
I had a really easy time reading my copper salifert test. you could definatley tell when it got to the .5 blue
So rayn, are you doing a .009 hyposalinty in one Qt and cuprimine in another both for 4 weeks?
Jstdv8
07/13/2010, 06:47 PM
Also, are you using an established HOb filter in addition to the rocks?
I had a really easy time reading my copper salifert test. you could definatley tell when it got to the .5 blue
So rayn, are you doing a .009 hyposalinty in one Qt and cuprimine in another both for 4 weeks?
Cupramine in both, no hypo. Once both are good, and I have the 120 going :worried2: then they will be moved into it. Only thing I have problems with here is getting the 120 going......very slow process
Also, are you using an established HOb filter in addition to the rocks?
Yes I have a well established HOB on both tanks. One from the main DT that went to the main QT that has the rock in the cycled tank. Then I added one and let it build for about a month then moved the original HOB to the secondary QT. Follow?
Jstdv8
07/13/2010, 10:03 PM
Yep, sounds sweet.
What was the point of seperating the fish? some of them don't get along? or just too many in one smaller tank?
Your supposed to only have one fish per QT at a time. I screwed up and put two in one, now I hoping it works out. So far so good, but if one fish gets something the other has it too.
Cupramine in!!! The bottle say 16 drops per 10.5 gallons. So I did 40 drops. With the rock I have in there and the water displacement I decided to play it a little safe and see how it works. Will test tomorrow and feed, the redose on Thursday. I also put the stability in the tank last night to help out, should that be added every day per the bottle recommendations or inbetween days of the cupramine?
I prefer the 1ml instead of drops.....its more accurate. Drip size changes. But you should be fine. Just make sure you test. I never used stability but I don't think it will hurt to add as often as you want. To be safe I would call Seachem.
Palting
07/14/2010, 07:15 AM
I'm wondering why you still use stability when you have an established HOB filter already?
Anyway, how are the fish doing? What's the Cu level?
RBU1 suggested that I have bacteria in a bottle, or in my case stability. The bottle or seachem recomends using it during medication. Insurance against unwelcomed spikes, but it doesn't replace water changes.
Jstdv8
07/14/2010, 01:18 PM
Not to dredge up old posts, but this kind of goes back to one a few weeks ago about copper killing the biological filter.
plating says the jury is still out. But i wonder why they would tell you to have stability on hand and or be checking for ammonia spikes all the time if you had an established HOB filter full of good bacteria to process the fish waste?
Something doesnt add up here. Just sayin'
Rayn
"Your supposed to only have one fish per QT at a time. I screwed up and put two in one, now I hoping it works out. So far so good, but if one fish gets something the other has it too. "
My wife bought a clown and threw it in with my sixline that was allready in the Qt for 3 weeks for observation. shortly after the clown shows ich so I copper treated both of them, no problems. granted they are both small fish so not alot of waste.
poor sixline ended up in QT for 8 weeks 5 in treatment
I don't recall ever stating that copper will kill biological filtration. The fact he was setting up new tanks to use as QT's with no established bacteria is the reason for the bacteria in the bottle. Nothing to do with copper.
Jstdv8
07/14/2010, 03:30 PM
I don't recall ever stating that copper will kill biological filtration. The fact he was setting up new tanks to use as QT's with no established bacteria is the reason for the bacteria in the bottle. Nothing to do with copper.
I was mentioning a debate that we were having in another thread a few weeks ago. I was saying that I thought that copper decimated the bacteria on the filtration. Which would explain why seachem would want yuo to have some stability on hand. (that and its mroe product for them to sell). AS well as why you always seem to get ammonia spikes in a QT even after you place a seeded piece of filter in the HOB.
Didn't have anything to do with anything you said. :)
Either way, the stability cost less then any of the fish in QT. Like I said, cheap insurance against spikes in the QT. Ill check Cu levels tonight and feed small, then second dose tomorrow.
Palting
07/14/2010, 04:46 PM
I hope everything goes well with you, and I have a selfish reason. I'll be doing it soon, too!! One big diff, though. You are worried about 2 fish in the same tank? I'm going to treat them ALL in 1 tank!
Jstdv8
07/14/2010, 06:34 PM
Either way, the stability cost less then any of the fish in QT. Like I said, cheap insurance against spikes in the QT. Ill check Cu levels tonight and feed small, then second dose tomorrow.
I totally agree, EVERYONE imo, should have a bottle wehn they Qt for the reasons listed above :)
**prepares for the flames**
:uzi:
I hope everything goes well with you, and I have a selfish reason. I'll be doing it soon, too!! One big diff, though. You are worried about 2 fish in the same tank? I'm going to treat them ALL in 1 tank!
You are under slightly different circumstances then me. Once you get your new tank set up you plan to turn your old one into QT right? I wouldn't set up a different QT then either. I made the mistake of not following the 1 fish per QT rule. You know your tank, and your fish. Ich should be your only issue. Fish from a LFS have who knows what. Ich, sure. Some other fishie disease, ?
Just checked copper levels with salifet test kit. Takes 20 minutes to do complete. So far unless I'm reading it wrong I am only showing .10 ppm. It should be at .25 I thought, because by the second dosing it should be a .50 Second dose tomorrow and then we will see.
Just retested to verify results. It is definately at .10 this time around.
Palting
07/14/2010, 09:11 PM
Just retested to verify results. It is definately at .10 this time around.
Live rock. Soaking it up, IMO. Just means good thing you're checking levels.
Jstdv8
07/14/2010, 10:18 PM
weren't you the one that had the LR in your QT tank? or was that someone else?
Just retested to verify results. It is definately at .10 this time around.
Its possible. Thats why having rock in the tank makes things alittle more difficult. Just make sure you are testing correct and leave more time between doses to verify your reading again.
Ill check again tonight before I do anything. So far though it seems to be okay, and I'd rather go on the low side and take a little longer then overdose and potentially harm the fish.
Correct. Take your time and make sure you test. You don't want to go to much over .5 and you don't want to go below .4....Its a tough range with those colors. I was told (not sure how true it is) that if you don't keep the copper at proper levels the ich will survive and build up a tolerance to the copper causing all types of problems.......Keeping the proper level is really important.
Great, now I have to worry about treatment resistant ich. The test kit goes from .25 straight to .50. Ill try to get it close to .50 without going over, even I have to get it there over three seperate doses.
I would not worry about it. Just try to get that level right. LOL
After thinking I had to use drops cause I don't have a ml syringe, it hits me. Use the copper test syringe stupid. It will only be used with copper and only to test for copper, sooooooooo.
Anyway, retested tonight and still at .10, so I added 1ml from the syringe.
Jstdv8
07/15/2010, 08:26 PM
I've heard that the cheleated copper that is cuprimine is very weak as far as harming fish and that you could overdose by a bunch before it would cause any real damage.
This is just hearsay, but if you are a bit over the .5 it probably won't be the end of the world.
Just checked copper levels tonight. Slightly higher, but still showing at the .10 range and not to the .25 yet. Feeding tonight, should I redose as well or wait the full 48 hours?
Jstdv8
07/17/2010, 10:42 AM
gah, this is starting to get rediculous.
Don't use LR in your QT people, poor rayn has dosed more than a few times now and isn't even coming close to the desired amount of copper. Also, you can't really start counting off your 4 weeks of treatment time until you have it at .5 for the same reason that RBU1 mentioned
Palting
07/17/2010, 11:26 AM
gah, this is starting to get rediculous.
Don't use LR in your QT people, poor rayn has dosed more than a few times now and isn't even coming close to the desired amount of copper. Also, you can't really start counting off your 4 weeks of treatment time until you have it at .5 for the same reason that RBU1 mentioned
LOL! C'mon, Jst. It's his tank, his copper, his live rock. The frustration is his, or maybe not. We already had this discussion earlier on. Sometimes you just have to get into it to find out what it's all about. So now, we all find out what it's all about, thanks to Rayn :).
Rayn, my guess would be is that you can dose at shorter intervals since your levels are going up so slow. At more frequent interval dosing, with the LR, the levels should go up simillar to one with the recommended dosing but without LR. I'm not saying do it. Heaven forbid I would say something that woukld mess you up. What I am saying is the is what I would do.
Yes I have live rock in there. BUT my fish are happy, they have a place to hide an hints to swim around. No not everyone will agree with my way, but I'm not asking for that either. So far so good, ill check here shortly for my levels.
The rock can stay but you are going to have to add extra cupramine. Just add it slow and test regularly. I would give Seachem a call monday just to pick their brains about the rock being in during treatment.
I tests and it still showed the .10 so I added another 1ml. Ill test again shortly.
Tested again this morning and I believe, if my eyes are accurate, that I am finally at the .50 level. If not it would be just below cause the color is do dark for the .25
Ok wait 48 hours and test again
Palting
07/18/2010, 11:52 AM
Woohoo!! So, the countdown begins to, what is it, 4 weeks? Your 120 gonnna be ready by then, Rayn?
No. Even I I could put water in it today, wouldn't have the cycle done. Looks like I'm either leaving them in QT or setting g up a interim fish only tank. I had a sinking feeling this would happen too.
Palting
07/18/2010, 01:43 PM
No. Even I I could put water in it today, wouldn't have the cycle done. Looks like I'm either leaving them in QT or setting g up a interim fish only tank. I had a sinking feeling this would happen too.
Aaaah, no biggie. If I recall, you do have a pic of a room full of tanks :).
Yep. It has been added to, another 29 found its way in. Friend gave it to me.
Just a small update. All fish are doing good so far. Copper is still at the .50 and steady with the water changes. Only thing really new is a new swallow Angelfish I added to the new 29. So far so good with him, eating well an looks nice.
Just a small update. All fish are doing good so far. Copper is still at the .50 and steady with the water changes. Only thing really new is a new swallow Angelfish I added to the new 29. So far so good with him, eating well an looks nice.
You got lucky adding a fish right to .5 cupramine. Just make sure your 4 week countdown starts after you added the new fish.
Jstdv8
07/21/2010, 12:50 PM
^^^ +1
This thread is a perfect example of why I beleive alot of tretments/ QT's fail and get posted on the internet saying they didnt work. Rayn is doing it right, but I could easily see alot of people saying, well, I had the fish in the copper for 4 weeks they should eb good to go, even though a week and ahalf of that the copper wasn't anywhere near the elvel it needs to be to be effective.
Same thing for hypo, if even for 1 day the salinty rises above .012 then the whole treatment may have been for naught.
I don't agree with the LR being in the Qt for the exact reason that happned to rayn in this thread, but as long as you start the timer from the moment you actually got yuor copper up to a sustained correct level it will be fine.
Or in Rayn's case when he added the newest fish.
Jstdv8
07/21/2010, 02:33 PM
holy spell check batman!
You got lucky adding a fish right to .5 cupramine. Just make sure your 4 week countdown starts after you added the new fish.
New fish, new tank, new countdown, new cupramine. He wasn't added to a tank with full cupramine in it, I would think that would be to stressful on the fish.
Whole point of the update was just to keep all who are watching g and those who have helped me out in the loop. I hate those threads where it just dies and you never know how things turn out.
Another quick update, my leopard wrasse tonight now that I'm home doesn't look good at all. Took me quite a while to find him and he isn't doing much. Kinda folded round, and not really swimming much. Should I move him to a different or will that put him in some shock being suddenly out of the copper?
Jstdv8
07/21/2010, 06:23 PM
you have good surface aggitation in that QT right? lots of ripples made by a small powerhead?
Jstdv8
07/21/2010, 06:24 PM
also, be sure to check your ammonia and your PH
HOB filter and K3 in a 29 so should be good. Then there is a ammonia disk and it is showing 0. Gotta check ph, it is at 8.4
Jstdv8
07/22/2010, 01:57 AM
yep, sounds good, as long as the K3 is actually making significant ripples on the surface and not just moving water around under the surface.
I lost my very first fish ever by adding a powerhead to my QT and not bothering to point it towards the surface.
you're PH is good so I'm guessing that's not the problem.
Hard to say, maybe he's just stressed because of everything that's going on. is your copper still right at .5?
It ripples the surfice special that shouldn't be a problem. I asked in another thread because he started laying down and not looking good. Got told that wrasses don't do well in copper, and he had been fine till copper was added. I took him out of the copper and into a different tank and we will see how he does. Probably set me back because that is my DT, but it has the sand bed and LR he needs.
Small update and a question. All area dong good. The blue tang has shown no signs of ich or anything else since cupramine was at the .50 level. It has been kept there for three weeks now with water changes and adding water. One week left of the treatment. What do I do with him then? I can put him in my other 29 with the rabbitfish that has no copper treatment at all and he has never shown any signs of anything. I can't do the 55 as it does have ich, that I will take care of as soon as I can. I can't do the 120 yet as it is still cycleing. So, do I move him to the other 29 or what?
Why can't you just leave him were he is but remove the copper after 4 weeks?
That is what I was wondering if you would say. That I can do easily.
Working on pulling the cupramine out now. Just currently running carbon in the filter area. I blew it and forgot to get cuprisorb, is there anything else I could do to help get the copper out?
Working on pulling the cupramine out now. Just currently running carbon in the filter area. I blew it and forgot to get cuprisorb, is there anything else I could do to help get the copper out?
Water changes and carbon.
Okay, about to take the blue tang out of QT and place into the 120. What would a acceptable copper level be to place another fish in QT is there is some left? 0, .10, .25? I remember you balking at another fish being placed in a the full .50 level, so I was just wondering.
You should really put a fish in a tank with 0 copper. Make sure they are eating and acting normal before you start to add copper. Sometimes copper can cause a fish to stop eating. Thats not a good thing for a new fish. Do a large water change and get the copper as low as possible.
Any fish that would go intot the QT with copper is not "new". These would be coming out of my 55 for QT copper treatment, then being placed in my 120, or another holding tank until my 55 sits fallow to kill the ich parasite in the tank. I would like it to sit for something like 8 weeks +.
I also understand the 0 copper level though, water change here I come. Tested 10 min ago and it might be at .10 right now.
Any fish that would go intot the QT with copper is not "new". These would be coming out of my 55 for QT copper treatment, then being placed in my 120, or another holding tank until my 55 sits fallow to kill the ich parasite in the tank. I would like it to sit for something like 8 weeks +.
I also understand the 0 copper level though, water change here I come. Tested 10 min ago and it might be at .10 right now.
You should be fine with that. I always like to start with 0 copper. But that low of a level should be no different then your first dose anyway.
Are the little white bug looking guys copepods? Will they survive in copper? Only reason I ask is they are starting to come out again in the tank I treated with copper.
Also on a side question, I know inverts won't live in copper but what about corals? Is it deadly to any and all coral too?
I would think copper will destroy anything....
Copepods...no they will not survive in copper.
Weird. Between the water changes and carbon then, I must have pulled the copper out. I have started to see little white bugs around in there again. They dissapeared again as I am currently QTing another fish, but haven't added the cupramine yet.
Looking around tonight at the 120 with the clown, rabbitfish and blue tang I hope I'm just seeing things. Might check this out
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1896103
But looking at the rabbitfish, I swear there are little white dots that have never been there before. EVERYTHING went through QT. EVERYTHING was clean before moving to the 120. If I do all that and still get something, what is the point? :sad2:
It's also to late to just go back to QT, I have the next one in there. Powder brown tang I got Saturday. Guess what he has?!
That would really suck!!!!! There are only a couple things that could have happened if your 120 has crypt in it....Well first off... was this 120 a new setup or was this the tank you removed the fish from? If it was a new setup were did the rock and stuff come from and was it fallow with that stuff in it for 10-12 weeks? Are you positive you had the Cupramine at the correct level? Did you use any pumps, hoses, nets anything from the treatment tank in the 120? I really hope your just seeing things.....
Everything was new. Nothing that has touched the 55 touched the 120. No net, ups, anything. Looked fine this morning so ill see tonight when I get home.
Keep us posted...
The only thing it could be is the Cupramine level. Are you confident the level was kept the same during the entire treatment? Lets hope its just sand or something in the slime coat....
Most definitely will. Hopefully it is just sand, that would be a welcome surprise.
BLEEPEDY BLEEPEDY BLEEP BLEEP BLEEP. If I said what I really wanted I'm thinking I would get banned. Rabbitfish is covered in little white dots :(
Is there any way to do hypo in the DT when there are only the three fish in there? Otherwise I'm gonna have to figure something out and it is gonna be costly to me. That is a total of five fish I will have in QT, where am I going to put 5 QT tanks?!
I've tried getting pics, but the little bugger won't hold still, here is the best one I can get. Look at the dorsal and tail fin, they are there....
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view¤t=54cde648.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/54cde648.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Well that really SUCKS!!!! At this point if I were you I would let things go and see what happens. Keep water quality good and feed well. Hypo can not be done in a main tank with rock in it. THe fear is you will kill the inverts in the rock causing a heck of an amonnia spike. Maybe someone that has had the nerve to try it can chiime in with this one. I am not sure what could have happened. The only thing I can think of is the level of cupramine was not right. Its really hard to tell the proper color. I am not sure what else could have happened. I assume the rabbit fish is in the 120 now?
I have had this bluline in QT since the 7th of August. On the 14th I was at .5 I tested on the 16th and the level had dropped causing me to have to add more cupramine. I tested again on the 17th and yet again had to add more cupramine. Tested again on the 22nd and had to add more cupramine....Tested again tonight and had to add more cupramine...Hopefully you get my point. I am not sure why the level is dropping but it does. I have no carbon or anything in the tank that would remove copper. The only thing I can think is somehow the biological filtration is removing it somehow....So if you are not keeping an eye on it regularly and adding cupramine as the level drops I could see there being a problem.
Yes the rabbitfish, blue tang (who also again is showing signs), and a skunk clown (who for now seems clean) are in there. All corals and future fish are in QT hoping to keep out anything.
As far as levels, I checked daily or every other for the cupramine. Stayed at .5 and only had to add once to keep it there.
This really bums me out. Should I even worry about the QT for the other fish or go ahead and place them on the main tank so I don't have to worry about another flare up later?
Palting
08/24/2010, 08:14 PM
Jiminy christmas!! Holy smokes!!! Sorry to hear, Rayn. I've been following, and I don't believe anyone could have done this copper thing any better. Give it time, maybe it isn't Ich?
No way I would do Hyposalinity on a mature DT full of live rock. Just the little amount of live rock I left behind on mine gave me a HUGE nitrate spike from the dead and dying critters on it from the hypo. It's only because the bioballs and cannister filters are such efficient ammonia breakers/nitrate factories that I did not get an ammonia spike. Thank goodness for that, otherwise all my fish would probably be dead.
Well just fed, all the fish went nuts as usual. Atleast that is a good sign, right?
Yes eating is alwats a good sign. I would just let things go and see what happens. Still continue to QT any new addition to make sure you are not adding any other type of parasite. Hopefully it will go away and not return.
Spammer removed
Anything that helps others learn.
Lessons learned here......one, get real good at the copper level colors. Two, probably should have pulled the LR before ever thinking of copper. Three, no matter what, expect the unexpected, especially in this hobby.
Yes eating is alwats a good sign. I would just let things go and see what happens. Still continue to QT any new addition to make sure you are not adding any other type of parasite. Hopefully it will go away and not return.
Will do. Said it before, but I'd be lost without you. You have been more help then you know.
I asked this before and you gave an answer but, copepode can't live in copper. Copper leaches out of LR. How can I have a tank full of pose then? Is it possible that the LR is useable? Just wondering if i can take it out and use it somewhere (not the 120) before I use the cupramine again.
I enjoy helping...
As far as the rock....It is possible you can use it but I would make sure you leave it in a tank that you can run cuprisorb on it for a good time. Eventually the copper will come out of the rock but I have no idea how long that will take.
Not sure how you could have a tank of them....Maybe they can survive low levels of copper. Not sure on that.
Okay, dumb question but I need to know. How many fish can I QT at one time in a 29gal. I have two 29 available that I would be willing to use cupramine in. Here are the fish.....blue tang, powder brown tang, rabbitfish, skunk clown, and black yellowtail blenny.
After watching for almost a week I have noticed the ich fade away then come back with a vengeance. I'm willing to get the fish out of my 120 and QT them again to clear up the ich.
The main DT will sit fishless for however long it is needed to get rid of the parasite, but they will have to be able to survive in the QT for that period as well.
Just so everyone knows, this time the tanks will be empty save for a few little hiding spots, with no rock what so ever.
Well if you break up the tangs and even things out the best you can you might be OK. Just put some PVC pipe in the tank. Hopefully the tangs are small and the biological filtration is enough to handle them. Keep an eye on amonnia and have plenty of water made up to do regular water changes. Don't be afraid to run the Cupramine at or a little above .5 and make sure you keep it there for the full 4 weeks. In my QT my total amount of cupramine is 6ml spaced out over 6 days. After that I have been having to add cuprmaine at the average rate of 4 drips a day. Some days I add 16 drips. For some reason the Cuprmaine level drops in QT. Not sure why....
OH and there is some debate on how long you will need to leave your main tank fallow. My suggestion is 12 weeks. Others will say 8. Your call..
Palting
08/31/2010, 08:01 AM
HOLY MACK!!! 12 weeks!!!!! MAN!!! I'm nowhere close to that on mine, and I'm chomping on the bit. Whatever happened to 4-6 weeks??
I think it is called playing it safe. I'm really tired of ich. Ill probably do it too.
Palting
08/31/2010, 09:25 AM
I hear you, Rayn. I have to tip my hat to you for patience. Every time I get impatient, I look to you for inspiration.
I would say 8 is a minimum....The longer the better in my opinion.
I wont say I'm a patient person, but man I want this tank nice. I look at my 55 still battling HA and it drives me nuts. I really don't want to start down the wrong road and have more problems later.
Again in my opinion....The key to having a trouble and algae free tank is starting with pure water, runing carbon 24/7, runing GFO 24/7. have a decent size refugium and doing regular water changes. You have to stay on top of the carbon and GFO changes. "knock on wood" I have 0 algae problems in my main tank.
I just thought of another option, but it could end up a pain. My 55 with two clowns, swallow angel, and three chromis has ich too. I could drop some fish in there to make QT easier, as in one fish at a time, but I would pretty much have to dismantle that tank to recatch the fish again. Any thoughts on that?
Thats your call....Its what your willing to deal with. Keep in mind when you add your other fish to the 55 it could cause a stress situation that could cause an outbreak that might wipe things out....
That I don't want, but I would like to be able to lower my fish QT count at one time. Is the only reasoning behind the 1 fish per QT because that if one gets something the other has it too? If that is true, then aren't you just able to treat them all at the same time no matter what? I'm wanting to make this simple, but effective, and correct all at the same time. I think I'm not going to get all I want.
That is part of the thinking to only QT one fish at a time. I think you will be fine. In your case doing them all might together might be a better option. Its realy up to you, In my opinion you should be fine either way.
Well I took all the rock out of the QT and placed a few pvc tubes in there for hiding. My PBT isn't looking so hot these days though.
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view¤t=IMG_20100904_205224.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/IMG_20100904_205224.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/?action=view¤t=IMG_20100904_205236.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr321/dougcobb/IMG_20100904_205236.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
you can see the red around the gills.
Started cupramine again tonight as well. I haven't been able to catch any out of the 120 yet and place in QT though.
Does he have crypt on him? Is he eating? If he has no visible signs of crypt I would do a LARGE water change.
Yes he does. Woke up this mornig though and he is stuck to the powerhead. Unplug and he swims free so really not looking good. Tried feeding a little, but no go.
Yeah stuck to the powerhead is not good....Is he in cupramine now? If you still want to give it a try I would do a large water change.
Cupramine went in last night. Laying on the tank floor now. I did a 20% change last night when I took out the rock, then added some to bring the tank back full. This before the cupramine.
travis32
09/05/2010, 09:39 AM
I did hypo in a 29gal tank with around 10 lbs of live rock for filtration. (Not thinking about die off or cycling, since the rock was seeded from my DT....)
I did hypo with a 4" betta and 2-2.5" Lawnmower blenny, and a 1.5" Royal gramma.-- Gramma had ich.
Once I got to hypo the ich on the gramma was hanging off the fish in stringyness. However.... I also had an ammonia spike over 2.0 on the tests. (test only goes to 1.0).
The gramma developed secondary infections in the swim bladder and I had to flush her or risk even a higher spike when she died.
Now, here's the twist on this.... The other two fish were fine. They were eating, swimming, and acting healthy. I dosed with full doses of prime once to twice daily for a week. Within two weeks of starting hypo to when I removed the Gramma, the tank had fully cycled in hypo and the ammonia read zero....
I, over the course of 2 weeks, brought the tank from 1.009 to 1.026 (my dt sg), and then transferred the fish back. I had no further spikes in ammonia.
I've already started the cupramine so I gotta go that way. Hypo doesn't sound bad, but the ph fluctuations kinda scare me. Using copper I can just make water, add the copper and do water changes. Currently using stability in the tank as well, ammonia only had a small spike way back when I started this and has constantly read 0 since.
Powder brown tang is gone. :( ich was to much for him I guess or maybe something else in the end. He was starting to look sorta blotchy towards the end.
Now the blenny shows no signs of anything, never has, and seems to be doing okay.
Palting
09/05/2010, 12:03 PM
Sorry to hear that, Rayn. Hope things go better for the others.
Yes it does suck losing fish. In the future if you properly QT hopefully you will never have to go thru this again. I have lost several fish in QT and talking to some respected people they do also. The thought is they would rather lose a fish in QT then infect their entire main tank. I hate losing fish......My blueline in QT was covered with crypt. After about 5 days of full strenght cupramine he is clear and eating and acting great. So far so good....I have a black tang on order and will be getting it on the 15th....fingers crossed already for the black tang....
YIKES on the black tang. Hope all goes well there. Yeah, I hate losing fish too. I'd had him for about a week and then started to notice the ich, that is when I got going on this thread again. I'm 'going to try' and wait till I get rid of the ich before purchasing any more fish, but I'm looking for another skunk clown and would probably break down if I found one.
So far blenny is doing good, however it is hiding in my powerhead after I turned it off to keep the tang from sucking up to it again. Other QT is ready once I get the fish out of the 120. Hopefully tonight if I'm lucky.
Okay. Fish are now out of the 120. It will be fishless for the 8-12 weeks, however long I can wait ;).
Two QT are up and going, both 29 gallons. One has the yellowtail blenny and the skunk clown. The other has the rabbitfish and blue tang.
I need to do water changes on both, but will probably wait till tomorrow and let them settle a bit. I'll try and feed tonight and start the cupramine doses tomorrow. Both tanks are empty except for a few pieces of pvc for hiding.
steelhead77
09/07/2010, 12:03 AM
All I can say is WOW! With all the hassle you've been thru, what do you think the outcome would have been if you had just left everything alone and living stress free in your DT? I certainly don't see how it could be any worse for the fish.
Good luck.
All I can say is WOW! With all the hassle you've been thru, what do you think the outcome would have been if you had just left everything alone and living stress free in your DT? I certainly don't see how it could be any worse for the fish.
Good luck.
Well if he left everything alone he could have been fine for now or it could have wiped out his entire tank. It could be fine till he adds another fish then it could wipe out his entire tank. He is doing the right thing trying to keep a crypt free tank. Sometimes its a challenge but well worth it in the long run.
Okay with the disaster I had the other day, I need a new bigger QT. I have a new 55 gallon sitting that I was thinking about using. I was thinking about dividing it into three seperate chambers with full height dividers and running three filters. Then I could divide the fish up into there. Is this feasible or not really worth it?
Palting
09/08/2010, 06:24 AM
Never thought of it, but why not? You'll end up with something like 17 gal compartments. So long as you already have all the filters. If you still have to buy the filters, then I would think it will be more cost effective to just put them all in the 55 as a single unit.
True on the cost. I'm was trying to think long term too. This could be used over and over and then I would only be running two tanks, instead of five. ;)
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