Sad day... :'-(

[mouse51180]

Was installing the foam rock wall and needed to drill a couple bulkheads in the back of the tank to run new pipe for the filtration system and ended up shattering the back of the tank.

Bye bye 80g tank. :'-( :worried:

[Schreff]

That sucks... Sorry to hear.

[Altpers0na]

Was installing the foam rock wall and needed to drill a couple bulkheads in the back of the tank to run new pipe for the filtration system and ended up shattering the back of the tank.

Bye bye 80g tank. :'-( :worried:

that sucks, but at least you got a new terarium out of it :lol:

[mouse51180]

So...is this the picture of broke tempered glass? All my research told me that my tank had a tempered bottom and the sides were fine.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x216/Mouse51180/3db626fc.jpg

[uncleof6]

Yup that was tempered glass... sorry to see this, but is good warning to always verify that the glass is not tempered-- whether it is labeled or not, or whether someone tells you it is or is not.

You can replace the panel, should not be too hard to get out. Uses thicker glass, and do not used tempered.

Good luck

Jim

[dantimdad]

That really stinks! I concur with uncleof6. You can handle the repair!

[HeneryH]

So...is this the picture of broke tempered glass? Yes, along with the tell-tale "POP" that goes along with it.

[NanoReefWanabe]

Yes, along with the tell-tale "POP" that goes along with it.

i have always considered it more of a POOF sound....

however as uncle has said...now that the panel is "out" it is fairly easy to remove and repair the tank...shame to see an 80g bow front down the drain...especially since you done a foam rock wall to fit it...keep your head up...

[mouse51180]

i have always considered it more of a POOF sound....

however as uncle has said...now that the panel is "out" it is fairly easy to remove and repair the tank...shame to see an 80g bow front down the drain...especially since you done a foam rock wall to fit it...keep your head up...

Nope im going to have to agree with HeneryH...it really was a POP and not a poof. :-P

I am actually not as bumbed as I thought I would be. I was thinking on the way home that I could knock the back glass out and silcon a new acrylic back in place and get away with a quick cheap fix and a new and improved hybrid tanks... :-P Yea...not ghetto...its hybrid!!!

I think I will be ok. Got most of the glass out last night...just need to get the small pieces that are sliconed under the rim of the tank.

[uncleof6]

You try to use acrylic for the back panel and you will be cleaning up water anyway... tell me you were joking.......

Jim

[DeathWish302]

I was thinking on the way home that I could knock the back glass out and silcon a new acrylic back in place and get away with a quick cheap fix and a new and improved hybrid tanks... :-P Yea...not ghetto...its hybrid!!!

Have you used silicone to glue acylic baffles in a glass sump before?

I agree with uncleof6....Tell me your joking?

[mouse51180]

Have you used silicone to glue acylic baffles in a glass sump before?

I agree with uncleof6....Tell me your joking?

No...I was serious. Didnt think it would be an issue. Im not sure if I can remove the rim of the aquarium to slide a full piece of glass in so I thought using acrylic might be a little easier and cheaper.

But I guess from what you guys are saying I should use glass. Any other suggestions?

[Sugar Magnolia]

Each material requires a different bonding agent. The bond between glass and acrylic will NEVER be as strong as a bond of glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic. Add the outward force of pressure from the water on that acrylic to glass bond and you have a failure at the seam waiting to happen. You need to remove the acrylic panel and replace it with glass.

[mouse51180]

Each material requires a different bonding agent. The bond between glass and acrylic will NEVER be as strong as a bond of glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic. Add the outward force of pressure from the water on that acrylic to glass bond and you have a failure at the seam waiting to happen. You need to remove the acrylic panel and replace it with glass.

I dont have any acrylic in there now. Still cleaning up the broken glass mess. What should I use to bond the glass back in...just silcon caulking?

Is the indoor outdoor clear silicon caulk different from aquarium caulking? I some clear indoor outdoor stuff from GE that I got at Home Depot. Can I use that?

[der_wille_zur_macht]

You might get away with the Home Depot silicone, but it's not going to be a strong and reliable bond. IMHO it's well worth the $10 and a trip to your local Grainger (or their website) to get something suitable, like the RTV100-series from GE:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4UH12?Pid=search

[Mounda]

Ouch.

If you still want to use tempered glass then have the manufacturer drill the holes first before they treat the glass.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Tempered glass is far more trouble than it's worth for DIY efforts. It's expensive as a one-off piece (especially if you want holes in it), it's a little more delicate to handle (bumps that result in insignificant or no damage to plain glass can shatter tempered glass) and it offers no true benefit (we don't care that it's 20 lbs. lighter because we're not shipping truckloads of them across the country like the OEM did).

Just do what uncle said - get a piece of plain glass, in the next size up.

[mouse51180]

Just do what uncle said - get a piece of plain glass, in the next size up.

Why would I want to get the next size up instead of the same size?

Im assuming your meaining next size up in thickness..?!

[HeneryH]

changes in sizes may cause fit problems with the trims wouldn't it?

[jimmyj7090]

Plain glass needs to be thicker to have as much strength as the thinner tempered glass.

Good point about the trim fit with the thicker glass.

[mouse51180]

I would have to cut the trim for it to fit thicker glass.

[DeathWish302]

I dont have any acrylic in there now. Still cleaning up the broken glass mess. What should I use to bond the glass back in...just silcon caulking?

Is the indoor outdoor clear silicon caulk different from aquarium caulking? I some clear indoor outdoor stuff from GE that I got at Home Depot. Can I use that?

Whewwww.... Not goin' there with Wille and Uncleof6 on this thread already! I've used GE Type 1 in the past for sump recaulk jobs in the past and for overflow and baffles. Very limited stress applications. ......BUT, I would have to agree if your doing much more than a 40-50gal repair the extra security to sleep at night is worth the extra $$$. I'm not going to get on the ASTM certification testing soapbox, so just go to Grainger and get the RTV100.

I've also read sooo many people saying scraping the glass with a razor blade is not an adequate removal procedure for the old silicone and a special 'cleaner' is required. I've not a problem before with razor blades and isopropyl alcohol, but sounds like your a newbie with silicone and glass so go above and beyond on your first attempt.

What is the current front pane thickness and what is the height of that tank? There are calculators to determin the optimal thickness...

[uncleof6]

Whewwww.... Not goin' there with Wille and Uncleof6 on this thread already! I've used GE Type 1 in the past for sump recaulk jobs in the past and for overflow and baffles. Very limited stress applications. ......BUT, I would have to agree if your doing much more than a 40-50gal repair the extra security to sleep at night is worth the extra $$$. I'm not going to get on the ASTM certification testing soapbox, so just go to Grainger and get the RTV100.

I've also read sooo many people saying scraping the glass with a razor blade is not an adequate removal procedure for the old silicone and a special 'cleaner' is required. I've not a problem before with razor blades and isopropyl alcohol, but sounds like your a newbie with silicone and glass so go above and beyond on your first attempt.

What is the current front pane thickness and what is the height of that tank? There are calculators to determin the optimal thickness...

;) The calculators are off by at the very least, 1 - 2 sizes..... for the most part anyway.

OP: How you proceed is really up to you. You ahve to weigh the options. IF you replace the panel, you will need to go thicker, and replace the trim-- top and bottom. Don't cut it to fit: you cant make the end pieces longer, even though it may only be 5 or so mm.

You have to weigh the cost factor of replacing the tank, against the expenses involved, and the amount of work involved in replacing the panel. With a bow front, you won't be doing a euro brace........unless you know a REALLY good glass fabricator, with a water jet. (That would make cutting the front curved brace, of the euro, a piece of cake.

Jim

[mouse51180]

Thank you for all your help, suggestions, and knowledge.

Since my aquarium sits on the second floor of my house I dont think I am going to take the risk of doing a DIY fix. I have let my refill tank overflow once or twice in the past and soaked the carpet and my wife was not too happy. I can only imagine the dog how I would have to build myself if I let 80g loose all at once over my garage.

Thank you again for all your help.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

That said, I wouldn't trash the tank. Fix it and use it for tree frogs or reptiles or something, or sell/give it to someone who will.

[Mr Coffee]

+1 on RTV100 comes in Black or clear. the way to go for this application or any overflow box on the back of a tank type application. esp if you are replacing a piece of glass I would use RTV. baffles type 1 is fine but this is very different.