Solana XL 60 and Giesemann Infiniti build

[navychief]

Hello RC friends

I would like to share the build of a 60g Solana and Giesemann Infiniti to eventually become a mixed reef. I placed the order online with MD today.

A big thanks and plug to Russ at American Reef http://www.fishnetwork.tv/fishnetwork/AmericanReef/American_Reef_-_Product_Showcase/American_Reef_-_Product_Showcase.html for the great video on the Solana XL 60 and his suggestions on my build. Please visit his site!!

I was planning on the purchase of the Ecoxotic Panorama 23" LED, but I chickened out since there's not as solid of a history on these lights from what I was able to find. I steered away from the RSM 250 for a couple of reasons. I will share if anyone is curious.

So enjoy what I will share and please be patient, I'll upload picks starting from receipt of all the goodies thru the life of the tank. I'm looking forward to comments, suggestions, critiques, and the random "what the heck were you thinking?" comment.

And BTW. I'm no expert in reef tanks, so I will be asking a lot of questions/searching for answers within the forums.


navychief out..

[navychief]

Well. I finally received the Giesemann Infinity light and the Solana XL 60 the other day. Ran into some problems that I want to share along with pictures to be posted this coming weekend.

Basically, the light was received missing two of the four T5 bulbs and there's a chance that the ballast may be bad. Not to mention the lack of complete necessary hardware for hanging the light from a ceiling. The tank was received with a broken overflow box control door which I was able to repair.

Pics this weekend on the setup and issues!

[davocean]

Yeah, we need to see pics.
I had the solana xl 60g and really liked it, but needed room for my tang.
I did run the panorama on that last year, and it was pretty solid, but decided to switch to T5's since I have a light needy sand/bottom dwellar nem.
The LEDs were great for mixed reef, and I did have several BTA's that did wonderful under that lighting.

[navychief]

Just hooked up the pump after a loooooooooong RO/DI process. The pump is noisy IMO. It may need broke in.

I'll get those pics shortly, Davocean.

[davocean]

I'm guessing you may have the stock quiet one return pump that comes w/ that Solana, and I think those were inappropriately named.
They will work, but I did change mine to an eheim asap.
I also made an adjustment on the stock sump for less splashing, filter socks help, and keep level up, but also keep it low enough for power fail siphon.
I kept my locks high up for that reason.

[navychief]

I'm guessing you may have the stock quiet one return pump that comes w/ that Solana, and I think those were inappropriately named.
They will work, but I did change mine to an eheim asap.
I also made an adjustment on the stock sump for less splashing, filter socks help, and keep level up, but also keep it low enough for power fail siphon.
I kept my locks high up for that reason.

The name on that pump is misleading...false advert:furious:

Are you happy with your Eheim and is that the one you used in your Solana? If so, can I get a link to it or any other quiet pump recommendation? The wife is skeptical of the tank's location and solving the pump noise is a HUGE plus.

This morning I noticed that the Quiet One 4000 did settle down a bit, but not enough.

Question...When you placed your sump in the stand (assuming the left side), was the drain hose long enough to reach the overflow box placed on the left within the sump, or did you have to move it over to the right side?

[tqpolo]

Pics first then post.

[navychief]

Pics first then post.

Aye Aye!

Anyhow. I wanted to report that after a night of running the Quiet One 4000 pump, it has quieted down considerably enough to make the wife happy.

Now onto the pics. The first set of pics are of the light when it was received and as I went through the packing. Well packed, but missing two of the four T5s. Marine Depot is fixing that issue with an overnight replacement.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0028-1.jpg

Here I'm removing the side to insert the T5s

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0032.jpg

Here's the light all out for viewing. Notice the ballast name. Can you believe they spelled their own name wrong? Another note on the ballast. It did not fire the bulb. MD is sending out a new bulb before replacing the ballast. I think the ballast is bad. Bad ballast, incorrect spelled name...could it be a knock-off?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0030.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0037-1.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0036-1.jpg

These were a pain in the hind in for mounting. The lugs that attach to the ceiling are metric threaded and don't come with the necessary hardware to mount. If you go to your local home improvement store, you will not find M6 style drywall butterfly bolts. What I ended up using was 1/8th x 3" toggle bolts through the hole. Worked quite well.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0038-1.jpg

Last pictures. Tomorrow will be of the tank delivery, unpacking, and setup.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0039-1.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0034-1.jpg

[davocean]

The eheim 1260 made a huge difference, they are pretty much silent.
I'll check for pics of what I adjusted for sump after work.

[navychief]

Here's some pictures of the tank as drop shipped from Marine Depot. Everything came in good shape with the exception of the flow control door. I thought it was missing, but I found it laying at the bottom of the overflow box in pieces. I was able to re-assemble it and now it's working well...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0040.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0046.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0051.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0053.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0059.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0061.jpg

Pictures soon of tank, sump and light all working

[MedRed]

updates?

[navychief]

So sorry I didn't get the pics as soon as I said. Finishing up the last of our move. The move from our rental to our new home was a perfect oppurtunity to upgrade to the Solana.

Anyhow, here are some more pics.

In this pic, I've removed the side of the Giesemann Infinity to access the Halide bulb. Marine Depot sent a new double ended halide (13K) to see if that was the problem with firing. Replacing the bulb did nothing as expected. The ballast is DOA.

I used 60# of Caribsea Ocean Direct Live Sand Oolite as seen in this picture. Had a bit of a sand storm, but went away about a 5-6 hours and started clearing as pictured.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0068.jpg

Here's what the tank looked like the next day. I added my two clowns and my corals. As you can see, the water has not yet cleared. Just above the clowns you'll see a Koralia 3 running. Seems to be working well!

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0070.jpg

Another view. No Halide operating.

Any suggestions on how to place the power cords to keep them from pulling on the light? The light was placed evenly over the tank, but sits at an angle due to the cords (more pictures will be taken from above the tank)

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0071.jpg

Another pic with water clarity improving...notice the Tooth Coral. Not sure if that was a good move. I like the green grass look, but I need to remove some of it from my other LR since it does tend to spread when placed too close.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0073.jpg

ATM, I'm not very happy with this arrangement. The sump noise is quiet other than the occasional 'burp' from the water. You'll notice a Two Little Fishies reactor in front. I'm running some RowaPhos as a regiment for my tank. I'm still trying to figure out how the heck one is supposed to remove the filter sock (not pictured) from the back without making a huge mess. That is one of the biggest reasons why I need to re-organize this sump.

Suggestions?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0076.jpg

I've been using a phone to take the pics. I will be switching over to something for better quality pics on the next post. If anyone wants a particular picture of the setup, let me know.

[precko]

Any suggestions on how to place the power cords to keep them from pulling on the light? The light was placed evenly over the tank, but sits at an angle due to the cords (more pictures will be taken from above the tank)


Hi, I used plastic cable 'trunking' to attatch my wires to the wall so they ran horizontal from the light then down the wall as the wires were pulling down on the fixture causing the same problem as yours, It also helps hide the wires so gives a very clean look You should be able to pick this stuff up from most good DIY stores...

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/precko/4.jpg

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/precko/a8.jpg

Alternatively these things would work as well but may look as clean/tidy
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-PH61100-Cable-Nail-in-Clips/dp/B0009A3IYG

Hope that helps.

Paul.

[navychief]

Hi, I used plastic cable 'trunking' to attatch my wires to the wall so they ran horizontal from the light then down the wall as the wires were pulling down on the fixture causing the same problem as yours, It also helps hide the wires so gives a very clean look You should be able to pick this stuff up from most good DIY stores...

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/precko/4.jpg

http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/qq271/precko/a8.jpg

Alternatively these things would work as well but may look as clean/tidy
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-PH61100-Cable-Nail-in-Clips/dp/B0009A3IYG

Hope that helps.

I love your setup. Looks great!

Thanks for the suggestions. Once the new ballast comes in, I'll work my way to cleaning up the look.

How do you like your Infinity? I know you probably mentioned it in your thread, but what lamps are you running in it?

[davocean]

Maybe I read this wrong or too fast, but did you set this up and add fish/coral the very next day?!
I sure hope you cycled tank first, and where is your live rock?
Should be at least 1lb per gallon.

[navychief]

Maybe I read this wrong or too fast, but did you set this up and add fish/coral the very next day?!
I sure hope you cycled tank first, and where is your live rock?
Should be at least 1lb per gallon.

You're absolutely correct. I had to set up a tank at a house that I closed on after being built and then wait for the Solana to arrive...I was against the wall. I purposefully purchased the 'live sand' hoping it would reduce the impact.

I only have #20 of LR ATM. That's because I was aware we would be moving and I didn't want to move a complete reef. Now that it is set up, I will start cooking and adding LR.

Rather hazardous, but I will be alright with frequent water changes and the addition of Rowaphos.

[davocean]

Wow, hope that works out.
I'd be adding really established LR real fast, and do LOTS of WC's and run carbon.
Careful w/ the Rowaphos, only need a tiny bit, or it can drop alk pretty quick.
Good luck.

[precko]

I love your setup. Looks great!

Thanks for the suggestions. Once the new ballast comes in, I'll work my way to cleaning up the look.

How do you like your Infinity? I know you probably mentioned it in your thread, but what lamps are you running in it?


Thanks :wave:.

I am using 2x ATI Aquablue special's and 2x ATI Blue plus T5 tubes.

Currently using the Giesemann 13.5k megachrome HQI bulb but ordered a BLV 20k bulb so just waiting for that to arrive, as im using 2 white T5's I want a slightly more crisp/blue look which the 20k should give me.

I really love the Infiniti fixture it has been one of my best purchases and im sure a couple months down the line once your problems are fixed you will agree.

Good luck with it, lovely looking setup!

Paul.

[MedRed]

Do the XL solanas use textured plastic for the overflow, or is the plastic smooth (can it be scraped with a scraper.)

[davocean]

Last I saw over there they were changing to smooth, but I think there are alot of textured ones out there right now.

[MedRed]

where did you see that?

[navychief]

The one I have does have the textured plastic. I didn't even consider this to be an issue in keeping it clean. Have there been complaints?

There are a couple of things that came with the Solana that I particularly don't like or understand. One item is a "drawer" that sits under the sock to place media; a rather awkward place to place it and quite unnecessary IMO. The other item is a large plastic plate with a hole that the top of the sock sits on while it is in the overflow. This is another item that is awkward when it comes to removing the sock for cleaning.

Posting pics this weekend since I'm out of town.

[davocean]

where did you see that?

They are local around here.
The overflow will cover w/ corraline anyway, but if you had to scrub HA smooth is much easier IMO.
I basically removed alot of the sump parts on mine.
For me it was just easier to keep it bare, I didn't always run a sock, no auto fill bottles either.
It's the one part of the system that I think they couldn't make everyone happy and they figured we all basically customize our sumps anyway.
I bumped to a bigger tank, or I would have added a baffle, and probably put a HO fuge on there, that was the plan.
I also added a slip on PVC tube to bring drain all the way down to prevent splashing, quiet things up.
I ran an octo x 160 and got lucky on micro bubs, but it would be nice to add a baffle to help that.
It's a nice looking tank/stand, but the sumps need adjustments to fit each persons needs IMO.

[MedRed]

The one I have does have the textured plastic. I didn't even consider this to be an issue in keeping it clean. Have there been complaints?


I'm all about an immaculate tank. I only want coralline on the rocks, I want everything else in the tank to be clean. I want the overflow to remain black.


I basically removed alot of the sump parts on mine.
For me it was just easier to keep it bare, I didn't always run a sock, no auto fill bottles either.
It's the one part of the system that I think they couldn't make everyone happy and they figured we all basically customize our sumps anyway.
I bumped to a bigger tank, or I would have added a baffle, and probably put a HO fuge on there, that was the plan.
I also added a slip on PVC tube to bring drain all the way down to prevent splashing, quiet things up.
I ran an octo x 160 and got lucky on micro bubs, but it would be nice to add a baffle to help that.
It's a nice looking tank/stand, but the sumps need adjustments to fit each persons needs IMO.

What's the purpose of a baffle in the sump?

[davocean]

^^ Baffles are used to seprate chambers, define sump water level, but more importantly on this application to remove micro bubbles.

[navychief]

Well we're back. Been a busy weekend. I bumped up to a better camera for the pics. I added a nice, simple light to underneath the cabinet, all the way forward to the door. Nicely lights things up since the all black cabinet is like looking into a black hole.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3252.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3248.jpg

Skimmer pumping along...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3250.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3251.jpg

Infinity light from above. Still need to clean up the cords, but cannot until I receive the new ballast...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3253_2.jpg

Nice lanyards
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3254.jpg

my Condi. Clowns don't bother with it.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3255.jpg

without flash...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3256.jpg

I cannot remember what these are called.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3257.jpg

sorry about the image sizes. Trying to adjust that...

[MedRed]

Looking really good. Are you using an automatic top off?

[navychief]

Looking really good. Are you using an automatic top off?

Not quite as of yet. I've been doing it manually ATM due to I'm wanting to re-arrange the underneath setup. Possibly doing that today.

I was thinking about placing the sump long way at the back of the stand; might make it easier to conduct maintenance.

Eventually I need to order a chiller, but I will set it outside since I would be blocking the large vent hole in the back by rearranging the sump.

[navychief]

Can I get a recommendation for a chiller? Please take a look at the pictures. I'm using a Rio pump with my TLF reactor. I was wondering if it's 'do-able' to hook that reactor in-line with the chiller? I presume all chillers require their own pump?

[Shiandy]

Very nice looking / clean tank setup.

Another option on the lighting unit power cable is to run it up through the ceiling, I've done this with my system.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2979&pictureid=20912

[navychief]

Very nice looking / clean tank setup.

Another option on the lighting unit power cable is to run it up through the ceiling, I've done this with my system.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2979&pictureid=20912

I just had my house built. If I was planning correctly, I would have worked something into the ceiling or into the wall to hide most of the ballast and cords. Looks pretty decent to me.

[navychief]

I think this setup will give better access for maintenance, especially if I stick with this sock system. Current USA recommends changing it out every three days. That will definitely keep me on track to clean out the skimmer. Two socks were provided with the setup...

Tomorrow the new ballast is supposed to arrive. I'm sure some of the few corals I have will appreciate having some halide. :bounce1:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3260.jpg

[MedRed]

every 3 days??? Holy cow. What do you plan on using for your ATO water storage? will it fit ok?

[navychief]

Every three days is recommended, not sure if that's a bit excessive, especially with a tank with only two clowns.

Right now I'm using the bottles (as pictured) as my ATO. I have a Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155, but I need to find a resevoir that will fit well.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Osmolator_Universal_3155_Electric_Powered_Dosing_Pumps_Top_Off_Plug_In_Units-Tunze-TZ4111-FIDPETPU-vi.html

[MedRed]

Are you running any filter media? And your Osomolator is a newer version than mine... it has sweet magnetic attachments instead of the junky rails. I'm going to see if I can find that magnetic attachment somewhere. Do you plan on mounting the sensors in the sump or the tank? Do you plan on topping off into the sump or the tank?

[navychief]

Are you running any filter media? And your Osomolator is a newer version than mine... it has sweet magnetic attachments instead of the junky rails. I'm going to see if I can find that magnetic attachment somewhere. Do you plan on mounting the sensors in the sump or the tank? Do you plan on topping off into the sump or the tank?

No filter media as of yet. I'll probably pick up some chemipure. Right now I'm fluidizing Rowaphos only.

Once I hook up the Osmolator to the sump, I'll be topping off into it.

[navychief]

The ballast fixed the problem as I figured. Now my temps are running at 81 degrees. Opinions?

More pics tonight...

[MedRed]

Sell your GI and come to the LED side... lol j/k

81 should be fine if that's your peak. How long are your lights on? Seriously though, LED may be less expensive in the long run than a chiller and bulb replacements.

[navychief]

As expected, my tank is running hotter than I would like. The peak can approach 84 degrees, swinging from 78-79.

I need a recommendation for the right sized chiller that is reliable and quiet.

Thanks.

[navychief]

Sell your GI and come to the LED side... lol j/k

81 should be fine if that's your peak. How long are your lights on? Seriously though, LED may be less expensive in the long run than a chiller and bulb replacements.

I was VERY CLOSE to purchasing the 24" Panarama, but I blinked. In hind sight, maybe I should have.

I couldn't find enough quantitative info regarding it's ability to support all forms of reef life. Plus, I would rather control the scheduled replacement of lamps...I know how crazy that might sound.:hmm5:

[navychief]

Sell your GI and come to the LED side... lol j/k

81 should be fine if that's your peak. How long are your lights on? Seriously though, LED may be less expensive in the long run than a chiller and bulb replacements.

MEDRED. Halide comes on at 11AM and shuts off at 7PM. In the mean time, the 4 T5s come on and go off before and after the halide.

Whatcha think?

[MedRed]

You could definitely cut your lifecycle some. I know everyone wants to keep temps under 80... but I experienced zero issues with peaking 81-82 degrees during the day. My tank was growing like crazy. I'd monitor for stressed corals at this point. If you're not having an issue then don't worry.

[MedRed]

As expected, my tank is running hotter than I would like. The peak can approach 84 degrees, swinging from 78-79.

I need a recommendation for the right sized chiller that is reliable and quiet.

Thanks.

I was VERY CLOSE to purchasing the 24" Panarama, but I blinked. In hind sight, maybe I should have.

I couldn't find enough quantitative info regarding it's ability to support all forms of reef life. Plus, I would rather control the scheduled replacement of lamps...I know how crazy that might sound.:hmm5:

oops... i missed this. 84 is definitely up there. I'm not familiar with chillers, so I'm no good there. on the LED front... take a look at the Aqua illumination LED's. All of the tests show that they are par monsters. Everyone is having to turn their LED's to half brightness to keep from nuking their corals. They also use replaceable LED clusters, so you do have the ability to change lights if you desire. You'd probably come out ahead if you factor in the cost of your chiller, your fixture, electricity, and regular bulb replacement.

[navychief]

You could definitely cut your lifecycle some. I know everyone wants to keep temps under 80... but I experienced zero issues with peaking 81-82 degrees during the day. My tank was growing like crazy. I'd monitor for stressed corals at this point. If you're not having an issue then don't worry.

Any suggestions on the light cycle? This is the current lighting schedule:

Actinic + (22000 K) on at 7AM
Pure Actinic on at 9AM
Halide (13000 K) on at 11AM

Halide (13000 K) off at 7PM
Pure Actinic off at 8PM
Actinic + (22000 K) off at 9PM

Each T5 (4) is 25 Watts with 250 Watt Halide

Now for pics...

I found a 5 dollar fan at Target. Hope this will give some relief from the halide heat...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3271.jpg

You can't see it, but it's secured by the extension cord to the frame of the tank to keep from accidentally getting knocked off.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3270.jpg

another view...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3269.jpg

Done with the sump underneath. I will be adding the ATO soon!
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3268.jpg

Cords neatly draped using zip ties and zip tie blocks...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3267.jpg

Top view of light...
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3266.jpg

[navychief]

oops... i missed this. 84 is definitely up there. I'm not familiar with chillers, so I'm no good there. on the LED front... take a look at the Aqua illumination LED's. All of the tests show that they are par monsters. Everyone is having to turn their LED's to half brightness to keep from nuking their corals. They also use replaceable LED clusters, so you do have the ability to change lights if you desire. You'd probably come out ahead if you factor in the cost of your chiller, your fixture, electricity, and regular bulb replacement.

I think I'm gonna suck it up after all I went thru to get the new ballast PLUS already being set up. I'm gonna try the fan(s) for a bit and see if that helps. If not, I'll just blow some more useless Federal Reserve Notes (dollars) on a chiller.:D

I'm open to suggestions on a lighting schedule from anyone...

[MedRed]

If you're jumping up to 84 degrees, another hour of lights off isn't going to help much. What kind of corals are you going to plan on keeping? If you don't want to go the LED route (give it some more thought) I think a chiller would be your best bet.

Your Giesemann costs almost as much as my Aqua Illumination (http://www.aquaillumination.com/)fixture.

add in bulb replacements, chiller, and electricity, and you're going to be well over.

check out these two links...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1841197

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/5/aafeature2

[MedRed]

Last I saw over there they were changing to smooth, but I think there are alot of textured ones out there right now.

I contacted Current about it. This is the response I received:

Thank you for contacting Current-USA.

The overlow box on the Solana XL is textured just like the smaller Solana. The ABS used in the overlow has a textured side and a smooth side, so it is possible that someone got a unit that was manufactured with the smooth side facing out, however this is not standard and we checked the units we have in stock and they have the textured side facing out. The textured face provides a more natural and eye appealing look than the smooth side.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks,



It looks like the non textured ones are inside out flukes that snuck passed quality control

[navychief]

Been a bit since last post. Added ATO and a air pump to try and regulate down the pH. So far no stress from what I can tell in the little that I have. However, I need to get a different skimmer. The RS-100 works, but is a bit noisy and takes a lot of sump.

I hear the deltec MC500 is a good option?

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3306.jpg

[navychief]

I contacted Current about it. This is the response I received:



It looks like the non textured ones are inside out flukes that snuck passed quality control

Not surprising since my Solana had a few broken pieces in the overflow that I had to repair. Don't expect that when paying 1600 clams!!

[MedRed]

I think I will copy your ATO reservoir. Where did you get it and what did you use to make the holes the right size?

Also, what pump are you using on your reactor? I'm thing of running an SMR1 bio pellet reactor. http://www.saltysupply.com/NextReef-SMR1-NP-Biopellet-Reactor-p/nx1121.htm

[navychief]

I think I will copy your ATO reservoir. Where did you get it and what did you use to make the holes the right size?

Also, what pump are you using on your reactor? I'm thing of running an SMR1 bio pellet reactor. http://www.saltysupply.com/NextReef-SMR1-NP-Biopellet-Reactor-p/nx1121.htm

I ended up finding the container at the back of a Staples office supplies store. I had looked at Lowes and Target, but most of their plastic containers were either too shallow or too large. As far as the holes, I just used a couple of drill bits sized just enough to push the hoses thru; can't remember the exact sizes.

As far as the pump, it's a Rio and I have absolutely no complaints. I've had the little bugger for over three years and it's still going strong. Very quiet.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Taam_Rio_(Rio%2b)_Powerhead_Pump_Fixed_Flow_Aquarium_Powerheads-TAAM-TA3111-FIPHFF-vi.html

I can't tell you what GPH it pushes, but with that nice reactor link you posted, I'd recommend matching its GPH requirements up to a Rio.

[MedRed]

updates? and just my luck, staples did not have that same storage container :-(

[MedRed]

Oh yeah... how does the media tray for the sump assemble. I'm not quite sure what it's supposed to look like after assembly

[davocean]

I like what you did w/ your sump.
It is possible that Rio could be adding a little heat, not a fan of those myself.
A Eheim or Tunze could drop that temp possibly.
As for skimmer, the Euro works great, but I bet you're getting some microbubbles in display from that water fountain tube on there, I used an octo x 120 on mine and was really happy w/it.
I saw some stuff about to come out at Current not long ago, and asked about the overflow plastic(what I saw was smooth) and they told me future overflows were going to be smooth, but I guess that didn't include the solana.
I sent Medx's link, and for some reason they think many out there will prefer the rough(why I have no idea).
I did use the panorama on my solana, and I really liked it, grew sps in top 3rd of tank just fine, great growth and color, no temp issues at all.
I'd take LED's on that over running a chiller any day.
The only issue I personally had w/ that is I like very light needy sand dwellar nems, and at this time I don't think Par at bottom is strong enough for them, but they are working on lenses and such to over come that, hopefully soon.

[navychief]

updates? and just my luck, staples did not have that same storage container :-(

Well. I think the tank has pretty much settled out. The clarity of the water is crystal and that combined with the nice low iron glass makes it look as the fish are floating freely in the air.

The skimmer is giving good skimmate about every 5 days. I remove and clean it out at the same time I remove the filter sock and replace with the clean one. I just rotate filter socks.

All my parameters seem to be doing OK other than my pH. It's been sitting at about 8.6 or 7 which is a bit on the high side. I put in a air stone and pump in the sump to see if that would help lower the pH. I think it may have kept it from crawling higher.

MEDRED... You should be able to find a plastic container about anywhere. I guess you're having a problem finding one big enough, but not to big or shallow for under you cabinet? You might wanna try a store like Bed, Bath and Beyond or any other store like Williams-Sonoma.

Here's a few pics. I'll get some closer picks.

I know I need a butt-ton more rock, but gotta save some cash first. Gonna move S-L-O-W.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3330.jpg

Before the 250 halide turned off.
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3329.jpg

[navychief]

Oh yeah... how does the media tray for the sump assemble. I'm not quite sure what it's supposed to look like after assembly

All the media tray is is the same piece of plastic used for the overflow, shaped like a flat 'u'. All it's supposed to do is keep any media in place under the filter sock. Quite cheesy. I don't use it.

[navychief]

I like what you did w/ your sump.
It is possible that Rio could be adding a little heat, not a fan of those myself.
A Eheim or Tunze could drop that temp possibly.
As for skimmer, the Euro works great, but I bet you're getting some microbubbles in display from that water fountain tube on there, I used an octo x 120 on mine and was really happy w/it.
I saw some stuff about to come out at Current not long ago, and asked about the overflow plastic(what I saw was smooth) and they told me future overflows were going to be smooth, but I guess that didn't include the solana.
I sent Medx's link, and for some reason they think many out there will prefer the rough(why I have no idea).
I did use the panorama on my solana, and I really liked it, grew sps in top 3rd of tank just fine, great growth and color, no temp issues at all.
I'd take LED's on that over running a chiller any day.
The only issue I personally had w/ that is I like very light needy sand dwellar nems, and at this time I don't think Par at bottom is strong enough for them, but they are working on lenses and such to over come that, hopefully soon.

Thanks for the comment on the sump. I'm convinced that unless you build from scratch, you'll never have enough room for all the gadgets one would want to keep, especially in a Solana stand. :)

So far no issues what so ever with the Euro reef. I wish it was a bit more quiet, but that's only to keep the wife happy.

I was SO CLOSE to pulling the trigger on the Panarama, but I talked my self out of it. Don't get me wrong. I really like the Giesemann Infinity. It does put off some heat, but I've been able to control that a bit with that small fan blowing across the tank. Rather amazing that a little fan can drop temp by 4-5 degrees.

Do you have any pics of your Panarama and tank?

[davocean]

That's pretty much what the guys at Current told me, they assume most reefers are going customize or modify the sump no matter what they do.
I was going to build a cube type sump if I kept mine.
Mine was a nem specific tank, began w/ all LTA's which I lost to bad silversides all at one feeding(I don't use silvers anymore)
I ended up replacing them w/ BTA's after that, which did great under that lighting(Panorama) as well as a few sps frags on top, green bird and such.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/untitled.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/3056-1.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/Panorama008.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/3132.jpg

[davocean]

Oh, and I also had a euro on mine at first, mine made alot of splash out that tube, was also noisy.
The octo X was so much quieter, a great skimmer for the price.

[slorichie]

nice set up

My sump is alot like yours except i put a kalkwasser reactor inline with my ato. i dont have any pic but have a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Vy5zExZwaE
i had a bad attack of aiptasia that i trying to get under control.

[navychief]

nice set up

My sump is alot like yours except i put a kalkwasser reactor inline with my ato. i dont have any pic but have a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Vy5zExZwaE
i had a bad attack of aiptasia that i trying to get under control.

I had those little buggers, but I nuked them with Ap X. Loved watching them implode!

[navychief]

***? Had that little blue fan above my tank for less than a month and it died. Tank temps swung today from 76 to 82 during the day.

Screw this. I ordered a Aqualogic Trimline Cyclone 1/4 HP drop in with temp controller. Let anyone know how it goes if interested.

I guess I will try to somehow put it behind the stand, not inside. I just hope the hell it's not noisy.

[MedRed]

sucks on the fan. You could have saved yourself all of this trouble with some LED's :whistles:

I modeled my cabinet arrangement after yours. It's so much better now.

[aquaph8]

I used a chiller for years and I recommend canceling your order and going back to fans. Use one on the tank and one on the sump if you have to . Chillers can produce a lot of heat and be really counter productive if not vented outside. I quit using my chiller 3 years ago and haven't noticed any change in my livestock at all. I live in AZ where its 110 in the summer. All my chiller did was produce a lot of heat, then compensate for its own heat by running more and in then ran up my electric bill. I had to come to terms with the fact I spent $500 bucks on something that could be replaced with a couple of $10 fans.

[MedRed]

LEDs looking better and better!

[navychief]

LEDs looking better and better!

Probably so. I will overcome this problem!

[navychief]

I used a chiller for years and I recommend canceling your order and going back to fans. Use one on the tank and one on the sump if you have to . Chillers can produce a lot of heat and be really counter productive if not vented outside. I quit using my chiller 3 years ago and haven't noticed any change in my livestock at all. I live in AZ where its 110 in the summer. All my chiller did was produce a lot of heat, then compensate for its own heat by running more and in then ran up my electric bill. I had to come to terms with the fact I spent $500 bucks on something that could be replaced with a couple of $10 fans.

Thanks for the advice. What makes this a real pain in the a*! is a couple of things when dealing with fans. First problem is that I live where it's rather rural and I'm limited to the stores that have fans, let alone one small enough as pictured:
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/DSCN3271.jpg

The little fan in the picture was purchased at Target. Unfortunately it was the last one and was on the clearance shelf. I would have bought more than one if that were not the case. So finding a fan that is that small is difficult at best around Southern Maryland; someone strike up "dueling banjos."

I looked at the clip on fans ay MD, but the problem with those is that they will not clip onto the top of my tank since I'm using the lid frame. I guess I could take the frame off, but the wife likes it on.

Maybe I'm jumping the gun on the cooler. I might get the darned thing, hook it up, and find that it makes too much noise for our areaway since it's so close to the family room. The other part is the heat. I'm hoping it won't run a lot to maintain about 77F.

If all else fails, back to MD it will go.
:(

[navychief]

sucks on the fan. You could have saved yourself all of this trouble with some LED's :whistles:

I modeled my cabinet arrangement after yours. It's so much better now.

Pics, please. If you can.

[MedRed]

Pics, please. If you can.

http://i52.*******.com/2cia6bl.jpg

[navychief]

MEDRED:

you're in the same predicament as me. Trying to fit all the stuff underneath in the most convenient and most logical way possible to make ease in maintenance.

Well. I'm moving my sump down to the basement, directly below where the tank sits. The wife still complains about the humming noise :mad: so I'll solve this once and for all. Got all the stuff at Lowes ($118) to plumb and build a shelf for the sump.

I also received the chiller today. Cheese-and-rice, what a monster! Hopefully I may be able to return it if the sump being in the basement makes the water cooler for the tank above. Somehow I doubt it???

Pics tomorrow of the project.

[MedRed]

you know, depending on how long your tubing is, it may be enough distance to radiate heat. Couple that with cooler basement temps, and you may not have to use your chiller.

[MedRed]

hey chief, how are you dealing with microbubbles? Also, is the plastic piece that your filter sock hangs in buoyant? I had to put a big piece of rock on it to keep it from floating!

[navychief]

hey chief, how are you dealing with microbubbles? Also, is the plastic piece that your filter sock hangs in buoyant? I had to put a big piece of rock on it to keep it from floating!

MEDRED:

I hope your right on the temps while in the basement (pics later tonight). I have the stand made for the sump and bought all the plumbing. Now I have to start running the lines. I'm hoping that once it's running, I get positive results in temps since just the other day the $900+ chiller arrived. I'd like to save that money.

No issues with microbubbles what-so-ever. Not sure why I haven't had that problem. It might be since I'm using a sock?

That goofy sock ring I don't quite get. Mine doesn't float since I forced it down into the overflow. It fits rather snug, but will lift up when I pull the sock out. All I have to do is push it back down.

[navychief]

Errr. Maybe not the best title. Anyhow...

Need opinion. The Solana XL60 comes with the quiet one 4000 pump. According to the mfg, the max head is 10.2'. As it sits right now with the sump about to be placed into the basement, I have 9.5' of water to push to get into the tank upsatairs.

I'm thinking I'm gonna need a stronger pump...CRAP!

Anyone have a suggestion?

[navychief]

A little late on the pics...as always

Finally solved all my noise issues once and for all. And another added bonus is easier for maintenance with more room to expand with dosing or reactors. cost about $75 for all the wood and plumbing. The pump is another story...

Cleaned out underneath the Solana stand. The blue drain hose was a bear to remove in order to install the 1.5" smooth reinforced drain line. The supply and drain plumbing had to be jogged around to alleviate the difference in height to the stand plus I only used 45 degree elbows instead of 90s for the pump return. Figured this would keep the head pressure minimized.

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0222.jpg

Here's a pic of the sump on the stand downstairs. Yup...that's a drop in chiller. Moving the sump down stairs didn't give more than a degree in temperature drop. Just another cost. :mad2:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0221.jpg

Here's the 100PX-X Pan world pump. Cost $188 at Fish Tanks Direct. Works great, but I had to do some vibration isolation to keep it from vibrating up the studs to the up stairs floor...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0220.jpg

Drain and supply lines breaching thru the sill plate to the up stairs wall. Used flexible hose to reduce the vibration of the pump to the upstairs tank plumbing...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0217.jpg

Sump setup...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0219.jpg

Chiller, Temp Controller and ATO...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0218.jpg

just another view...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0216.jpg

How it started. Worked out great under the stairs...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0206.jpg

Again, the pump plumbing...

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_0213.jpg

That's it for now. I hope this info will be of some use out there. Let me know if you have some questions or observations...

navychief out.

[MedRed]

All I have to say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!

The moral of this story is, don't get married... lol

Great work!

[navychief]

All I have to say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!

The moral of this story is, don't get married... lol

Great work!

Yea, the things I do (sucker for 23 yrs) to keep the other half happy. The wife likes the tank, but would complain randomly about pump hum or skimmer noise. I finally had enough of it, especially if I was to use the chiller.

The job turned out really clean with almost minimal headache. The most difficult part was doing the plumbing behind the tank and down thru the wall. This obviously being since I couldn't (more like wouldn't) move the tank out of the way.

MEDRED. Do you have a basement below your tank?

Anyhow. Once this system matures a bit, time to start building the reef up!:bigeyes:

[MedRed]

Impressive build. If I ran plumbing below my tank, I'd be in the living room of the downstairs apartment. lol.

[BANANAHANDS]

Any updates???

[navychief]

Any updates???

Things have pretty much remained unchanged in the tank upstairs. As far as the sump and plumbing downstairs, I had to isolate the pump to remove the vibration noise from traveling up the studs into the upper floor. That was successful.

[BANANAHANDS]

Still happy with the tank? I just picked up a Solana XL60 and will be setting it up over the next few months (slow due to some home renovations).
Anything you would have done differently?

oh, and whats your rate?
Thanks,
Khris, former AC2 (AW/SW)

[navychief]

I'm very happy with the tank. One thing that is rather tough to utilize is the sump. Not exactly large enough to place a skimmer and a filter sock along with a chiller, especially under the cabinet. That's why I plumbed mine downstairs.

Retired ATC. Nice to meet you AC2.

[Crypsis]

Nice setup! I'm extremely jealous of your basement.

I don't understand how your return pump keeps a prime in that configuration. What happens after a power outage?

[navychief]

Nice setup! I'm extremely jealous of your basement.

I don't understand how your return pump keeps a prime in that configuration. What happens after a power outage?

I've never had a problem with loosing prime as long as the sump supply line remains below the water line. I think it's a combination of that and the fact of a check valve being incorporated in the return line beneath the stand. I also added a UPS (not shown) that kicks only for the pump during elec loss. I need to find a heavier UPS since the 3 phase motor is a bit much for the UPS.

When the power goes out, no issues, at least in short outages. I eventually plan on installing a large home generator.

[Crypsis]

I think your asking for trouble relying on a check valve to keep your return pump primed. All it's going to take is a little marine growth or a small snail in the wrong place and the valve won't close all the way. Then when the power comes back on your pump will burn up and you'll crash your tank if your not around when it happens.

Why can't you place the pump below the water level in your sump?

[navychief]

I think your asking for trouble relying on a check valve to keep your return pump primed. All it's going to take is a little marine growth or a small snail in the wrong place and the valve won't close all the way. Then when the power comes back on your pump will burn up and you'll crash your tank if your not around when it happens.

Why can't you place the pump below the water level in your sump?

There's also a siphon break in the directional flow nozzles that I have to keep clean. Even if the the check valve failed, the water isn't enough to overflow the sump before reaching the siphon break.

I guess I could have placed the pump lower than the sump, but that would require a pump with greater head than the one I currently have.

[navychief]

Does anyone have an alternative to filter socks? I find that they will change water level as they clog, which in turn will turn on my ATO...then I get salinity variability.

[MedRed]

Hey Navychief! Any updates? regarding your filter socks, have you tried one with a larger micron size? It may be less prone to clogging. How do you like your giesemann fixture?

[navychief]

Hey Navychief! Any updates? regarding your filter socks, have you tried one with a larger micron size? It may be less prone to clogging. How do you like your giesemann fixture?

MedRed. I've completely taken the sock out of my system. I did some reading and it seems that there's really equal pros-cons to use or not use filter socks. I'm giving no sock a try to see how it all works out.

One problem I encountered was my phosban reactor with GFO now clogs in the upper and lower filter disks. I ended up taking off my reactor and decided to use a mesh bag until I figure out how to keep that from happening when not using filter socks.

I have noticed that my corals seem to be open wider and more often. I believe that's due to the suspended particulate in the water. It's still clear IMO.

I think one of the things I'm going to do is buy a large aquarium and build a fuge, replacing the sump that came with my Solana. I think if I do this properly, I can isolate the particulate matter and go back to using my reactor(s). Plus make maintenance of skimmer and chiller easier.

The Giesemann! I'll probably never own another light. It looks classy and provides ample light to my 60. So far no issues with the ballast, other than the failed ballast out of the box; probably a one off.

If you or anyone wants pics of anything in particular, let me know.

I bought some dry rock (#25) from BRS, and I'm trying to figure out why I have fuzz on it. I "cooked" the rock for two weeks before putting it into my Solana. I should post a pic so I can get some advice on what exactly it is.

[MedRed]

What light schedule are you running with your Giesemann? Are your T5's on an independent time schedule?

[navychief]

What light schedule are you running with your Giesemann? Are your T5's on an independent time schedule?

Well. my Halide schedule from 0730 to 1930, (12 hours)
The 4 Blue Actinic+ schedule from 0830 to 2230 (14 hours)

I'm not quite sure if this is the best lighting schedule. :facepalm:

Whatcha thinking?

[MedRed]

Holy Cow! I was thinking a 6 hour Halide schedule with the others on for a 12 hour schedule.. maybe run the blue actinics until 10 pm or so. Any algae issues with that light schedule?

[navychief]

Holy Cow! I was thinking a 6 hour Halide schedule with the others on for a 12 hour schedule.. maybe run the blue actinics until 10 pm or so. Any algae issues with that light schedule?

I think I might try your recommendation.

[MedRed]

Lol. That's awesome!

[navychief]

Lol. That's awesome!

Don't know about that, but as far as your algae question, I think that white fuzzy stuff on my LR is either algae or cyno. It likes to hold micro bubbles.

[MedRed]

can you get pics?

[navychief]

Sure. I'll set up a camera and tripod tomorrow.

Thanks for the assist

Navychief out...

[navychief]

Here are the pics of the algae. It's not heavy, I just wish I could get it to clear up. It shows best on my algae scrapper magnet:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_5111.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_5108.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_5110.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65/tlisom/IMG_5109.jpg

[navychief]

oooops. Sry about the size. Does make it easier to look at detail.

[MedRed]

It doesn't look like cyano to me in those pics. Maybe dinoflagellates?

[navychief]

It doesn't look like cyano to me in those pics. Maybe dinoflagellates?

Med. I think it will work its way out. I put in new rock so that might need to establish. It was cooked.

I'll just ride it out.

[navychief]

Hey guys/gals:

Ordered two MP10 wireless. They should arrive in the next couple of days. I was looking for some suggestions on mounting and mode. I'm not too keen on mounting one on each side of my Solona XL60. I was wondering if it's just as good to mount one on the back, to each side of the return?

The other question is mode to operate (lagoon, constant, wave???). I still have only the Zoas, Condi, and a leather toad stool. I haven't ever increased my marine life cause I believe I've had too little water movement from single directional sources with my Korolias. Now that my one Korolia is dead, I broke down for the Vortechs.

Chief out.

[MedRed]

I have both of mine mounted on the back wall on either side of the return. I'm using Nutrient Transport Mode in antisync. I started using reefcrest, but it seemed like my corals liked NTM better.

[navychief]

MEDRED:

That's sweet! I was hoping someone out there has tried the MP10s successfully in that configuration. They're arriving Friday. Any suggestions on set-up or things you found that can be avoided?

[MedRed]

hmm... I think the big things for me are getting them in place as it seems the magnets are at the edge of their strength with the XL glass thickness. They don't fall off once you have them set, but they can work themselves apart unless they are seated just right. Another thing is extending the feed mode. I can't remember how long I have my feed mode set up for, but it's definitely longer than stock. If you have a controller, you can set up your MP10's to rotate through as many cycles through out the day as you like. I think Rehype has his set up that way. Oh yeah... I also changed the lights on the vortech controllers to dim after a certain amount of time after they've adjusted. This keeps the lights from being overly bright at night.

Vortechs are the shizz. They are one of my favorite pieces of equipment hands down.

[navychief]

hmm... I think the big things for me are getting them in place as it seems the magnets are at the edge of their strength with the XL glass thickness. They don't fall off once you have them set, but they can work themselves apart unless they are seated just right. Another thing is extending the feed mode. I can't remember how long I have my feed mode set up for, but it's definitely longer than stock. If you have a controller, you can set up your MP10's to rotate through as many cycles through out the day as you like. I think Rehype has his set up that way. Oh yeah... I also changed the lights on the vortech controllers to dim after a certain amount of time after they've adjusted. This keeps the lights from being overly bright at night.

Vortechs are the shizz. They are one of my favorite pieces of equipment hands down.

I hadn't measured, but isn't the glass on the back 3/8" thick? I figured the mfg accounted for glass thickness.

No controller(s). A little at a time. My next goal is to make a refugium.

Also, remember when I plumbed my sump downstairs because of the wife complaining about noise? Please tell me the MP10s are quiet.

[MedRed]

They cling just fine, but I've had them disengage within 10 minutes of starting them up numerous times. It seems if they seat fine initially, they'll stay together, otherwise, the dry side starts to move relative to the wet side and then they come apart.

You won't want to do any of the ramping modes then. They are louder than my mp40 I had on my old tank, but are fine as long as they aren't whirring up and down.

[navychief]

Hello, fellow RC'rs.

I wanted to share in a new direction that I'm taking my reef's sump.

I ordered the following and will be changing out and re-plumbing my sump to a fuge. This is located in my basement as can be seen in this thread. Here is the list of toys that are on their way. I welcome any comments, recommendations or simply viewing of the progress. All of these items I ordered are from Marine Depot:

UP Aqua UA-F17 6.69 Inch Flexible LED

Ecosystem Aquarium Miracle Mud (Marine)10 lb (yes. I know it's expensive)

Pan World 150PS Magnetic Water Pump (need more head than my current pump could provide)

Precision Marine Refugium R30 (just the fuge)

Why the change? Simply to provide more space, water volume, ease in maintenance, and to start expanding my reef life or at least I hope.

Chief out.