220v ballast on 110v

[Nammy]

Does anyone know if you run a 220v ballast plugged into 110v and running 110v lights?

I can across 24 x 220v ballasts and would like to use it with T8s

[Jeff]

Different plug shape right?

[Nammy]

Different plug shape right?

Good chance if it works I'll change the plug to a typical 110v.....

[julie180]

I don't think that would be a good idea. Different animal.

[theatrus]

If its a magnetic ballast, it will severely underpower the bulbs. A single supply electronic ballast probably won't even turn on.

In short its not usable unless its a universal/dual supply model.

[B-Willz]

No, you can not, it will need the 220. However a lot of ballasts can be changed back and forth. Depending on the brand, it may have a switch to go to 110 or you may have to move a couple of wires inside. I would call the manufactuer and ask them.

[Nammy]

too bad

[TAB]

its also illegal to use anything other then 110 in a home for lighting ( NEC)

As was mentioned, some ballest go both ways.

[BeanAnimal]

its also illegal to use anything other then 110 in a home for lighting ( NEC)



Well kinda... :)

You are refering to section 210.6(A) of the NEC (at least in my 2008 copy).

A "dwelling unit" can not be wired for 240V luminaires. That said, the NEC has no jurisdiction with regard to what YOU plug into a 240V receptacle. If you hardwire the fixture, then the assumption would be that it needs to be wired to code and inspected as such (meaning no 240V luminaires). However, leave it "cord and plug" equipment and it is not under the jurisdiction of your code enforcement entity. Note that the same section allows for the 240V receptacles as long as they are designated for loads of greater than 1440VA. Your single T8 cord and plug ballast IS NOT greater than 1440VA, but the NEC or your local law and code enforcement entity has no say in what YOU the end user plug in. Burn the house down or shock (or electrocute) somebody, and your insurer would likely question your decision, but you broke no laws.


An example to help with the logic:

If you have a 240V piece of shop equipment (lets say a lathe) it can (and man do) have a 240V light. Remember, most 240V equipment was not wired with a NEUTRAL conductor, so you had LEG -to- LEG of 240V and LEG -to- GROUND of 120V, but that GROUND is the Equipment Grounding Conductor and NOT the NEUTRAL. Therefore you can not derive 120V from it, as it is NOT meant to carry anything but FAULT current. Newer 240V equipment is (4) wire (LEG-LEG-NEUTRAL-GROUND) so that 120V subcircuits can be utilized inside the equipment (or plugged into it).